Insulating sticky putty removal help please

I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?

Without knowing who made it and what type number it is usually only
leaves mechanical methods. The stuff is formulated to resist UV light,
most solvents, oil & gasoline.

 

[Wild_Bill]

The 3M products that I've seen which are used for this purpose seem to be a
type of butyl rubber compound which fuses with itself as the layers are
wrapped.
These 'tapes' are very effective at sealing out moisture while building up a
thick insulating layer, and works well when applied over odd-shaped
connections.

A similar product (not for electrical insulating) is the butyl caulk ribbon
which was commonly used for installing automotive windshields and
(stationary) back windows.. rubbery and very sticky when applied to clean
surfaces.

A paint prep product such as wax and grease remover (naptha/cigarette
lighter fluid) or acetone/lacquer thinner will remove traces left behind
after other mechanical methods have removed most of the material.
A heated blade tool was commonly used when removing the window-weld product
for auto glass replacement because it's fairly stubborn to remove.
The acetone or naptha solvents will still likely require a considerable
amount of agitation (stiff brush or tough rag).

For electrical connections, most are considered to be permanent during
installation so removal generally isn't a consideration.. but applying
general purpose vinyl electrical tape over the terminal first, then applying
the sealing tape (beyond the vinyl tape) will ensure that the sealer is
easier to remove. Covering the butyl sealing tape with vinyl electrical tape
is a common practice.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


<etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:8trcb8pkgqrn1rg54mdspfj1e7bnlr6g1o@4ax.com...

I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[N_Cook]

<etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:8trcb8pkgqrn1rg54mdspfj1e7bnlr6g1o@4ax.com...

I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?
Thanks,
Eric

Have you tried locally heating with a soldering iron and excavating with a
dart point?

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Nov 28, 2:17 pm, e...@whidbey.com wrote:

I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?
Thanks,
Eric

You could try Naptha, it dissolves a lot of "things".

 

On Wed, 28 Nov 2012 20:46:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
<wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

The 3M products that I've seen which are used for this purpose seem to be a
type of butyl rubber compound which fuses with itself as the layers are
wrapped.
These 'tapes' are very effective at sealing out moisture while building up a
thick insulating layer, and works well when applied over odd-shaped
connections.

A similar product (not for electrical insulating) is the butyl caulk ribbon
which was commonly used for installing automotive windshields and
(stationary) back windows.. rubbery and very sticky when applied to clean
surfaces.

A paint prep product such as wax and grease remover (naptha/cigarette
lighter fluid) or acetone/lacquer thinner will remove traces left behind
after other mechanical methods have removed most of the material.
A heated blade tool was commonly used when removing the window-weld product
for auto glass replacement because it's fairly stubborn to remove.
The acetone or naptha solvents will still likely require a considerable
amount of agitation (stiff brush or tough rag).

For electrical connections, most are considered to be permanent during
installation so removal generally isn't a consideration.. but applying
general purpose vinyl electrical tape over the terminal first, then applying
the sealing tape (beyond the vinyl tape) will ensure that the sealer is
easier to remove. Covering the butyl sealing tape with vinyl electrical tape
is a common practice.
The stuff I'm dealing with is some type of putty. I'm familiar with

the tapes that seal to themselves, even have some. Acetone doesn't
work, tried it already.
Eric

 

On Thu, 29 Nov 2012 09:28:56 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

On Nov 28, 2:17 pm, e...@whidbey.com wrote:
I've got three buck/boost xmfrs that I recieved used. These have been
removed from equipment and I need to change the wiring configuration
to suit my needs. There is a big ball of sticky grey putty wrapped
around the connection points of the xmfr wires. There is in turn black
tape wrapped around the putty. I have been able to remove the tape and
most of the putty mechanically but there is enough left that still
needs to come off that will prevent a good electrical connection when
I re-configure the wiring. Is there a solvent that removes the stuff?
Some other method besides just cutting an inch off of the wire?
Thanks,
Eric

You could try Naptha, it dissolves a lot of "things".
Greetings Bob,

I tried napthalast night. It barely dissolves the putty. Actually it
just softens it to the point that it turns into goo. Maybe some
prechlor will liquify the crap.
Eric

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 29 Nov 2012 10:56:08 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

I tried napthalast night. It barely dissolves the putty. Actually it
just softens it to the point that it turns into goo. Maybe some
prechlor will liquify the crap.
Eric

If natha (Coleman Fuel) works, then one of the stronger chlorinated
hydrocarbon solvents should work better. Try:
MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
Methylene chloride (furniture stripper)

Duz this goo look familiar?
<http://www.polywater.com/powerpatch.asp>
<http://www.polywater.com/powerpatchPILC.asp>
It's used to seal holes in transformer casings. They might have also
used it to insulate the leads. It's BPA Diglycidyl Ether, which is an
epoxy mix.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisphenol_A_diglycidyl_ether>
Methyl chloride should soften it, but it may take a while. (Yes, BPA
is the same polycarbonate compound that was ordered removed from
drinking bottles in about 2008).

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558