IBM Selectric Typewriter Repair

[Tom]

I have an IBM Selectric 2 Correcting typewriter that works fine except
that several of the letter keys, and spacebar are sluggish and will
stick down for 5-10 seconds. Also the typewriter motor will not start
initially if it has been setting idle for some period (months). After
a short time it will run fine and will continue starting and running
fine until it sits idle for another extended time.

My gut feeling says that it really needs cleaning and lubed as it has
never had that done in the 25 years I've owned it. Any old IBM guys
who know if that is much of a job without a service manual? I've
taken off the cover and the existing lubrication is definitely old and
on the tacky side. Any recommendation on the lube point for the
sticky keys and spacebar? Would sewing machine oil be appropriate
or how about WD40?

I rarely use it (like maybe once a year) and have never used it more
than the occasional home written letter (pre computer). I bought it
from the original owner who also had used it lightly in a home
business. He bought it new in 1973. I was hoping to get it running
again for occasional use without taking it into a shop and probably
spending more than it's worth. Thanks for any help.

 

[Jack Smith]

On 6 Dec 2003 14:02:33 -0800, tobee2004@aol.com (Tom) wrote:

I have an IBM Selectric 2 Correcting typewriter that works fine except
that several of the letter keys, and spacebar are sluggish and will
stick down for 5-10 seconds. Also the typewriter motor will not start
initially if it has been setting idle for some period (months). After
a short time it will run fine and will continue starting and running
fine until it sits idle for another extended time.

My gut feeling says that it really needs cleaning and lubed as it has
never had that done in the 25 years I've owned it. Any old IBM guys
who know if that is much of a job without a service manual? I've
taken off the cover and the existing lubrication is definitely old and
on the tacky side. Any recommendation on the lube point for the
sticky keys and spacebar? Would sewing machine oil be appropriate
or how about WD40?

I rarely use it (like maybe once a year) and have never used it more
than the occasional home written letter (pre computer). I bought it
from the original owner who also had used it lightly in a home
business. He bought it new in 1973. I was hoping to get it running
again for occasional use without taking it into a shop and probably
spending more than it's worth. Thanks for any help.

This isn't a direct answer, but might let you calibrate the cost of
having it professionally cleaned.

I just had my Selectric cleaned and relubed. It is probably 20 years
old, but hasn't had much use. My problem was the first few keystrokes
did not advance the ball mechanism, so the letters piled up.

The repair shop described the process as a chemical (solvent)
cleaning, followed by a relube job.

The cost (Northern Virginia, near Washington DC) was around $125, and
it result is first class. The inside is clean, and it looks and works
like it did when it was new. For $125, I couldn't buy a replacement
with anywhere the same quality. And, considering that the annual
repair cost over the time I've owned it works out at $6/year, it isn't
outrageous.



Jack

 

[RWatson767]

Tom

IBM Selectric Typewriter Repair

Would sewing machine oil be appropriate
or how about WD40?

WD40 is a no-no. Period. I have fixed 100s of these and the other reply is
good. Price is good also.
If you must oil just use non detergent electric motor oil. We used the IBM
stuff. The motor can be lubed. Take the case off. Remove the platen assembly
and then there are clips on the inside of the sides to loosen. There is aclutch
thing to allow the motor to get going before it has to turn things. And you
probably have a shaft lubrication needed. After this it gets tricky.
Hope this helps.
Bob AZ

 

[Henry Mydlarz]

Under the two black plastic covers inside the typewriter, under the carrier,
is a shaft running the full width of the machine. Within the frames of the
typewriter that shaft has a Cycle Clutch (spring clutch which trips the
golfball drive and character selection), Carriage Return Clutch (another
spring clutch which causes the Express Backspace and Carriage Return to
operate), two large cams - the Spacebar Cam which trips off the space
escapement, and the Carriage Return/Index cam which trips off the Carriage
Return spring actuator and operates the Index (linespacing linkage). On the
right hand side of the frame is the Shift Clutch (a spring clutch which
trips a cam which causes an arm to spin the golfball 180 degrees.

Leaving this machine idle will almost always result in the condition you
describe - whatever oil there is dries up, leaving a residue of oil and
dirt. This causes all components to bind or jam - sluggish operation on all
the above mentioned items, and keybuttons sticking down, amongst other
things (there is a device at the pivot point of the typebars running the
width of the typewriter, which we lovingly called the "ballsometer" This is
a shaft of ball bearings that prevent two keys to be pressed at the same
time - it is one of the first things to seize, causing the pressing of a
keybutton to feel hard).

Back in the 1970s at IBM, as part of a recondition we used to bathe such
machines in a solvent bath, then lubricate the relevant components with a
mixture of oil and solvent applied through the bath after the pure solvent
cleansing. Lastly, oil and grease were applied where necessary - then worn
parts were replaced where necessary.

As a technician in those days there was hardly any service call I would hate
more than one for a typewriter which had been sitting idle for a long time.
Not having the luxury of a solvent bath, I knew I was in for a long haul,
with probably multiple service calls before the problems were resolved.

If you do try the solvent clean, be very careful not to leak it on to
expensive furniture, into your even more expensive eyes, watch out for skin
contact and fumes. In my days we used to use Trichloroethane, which was
later found to be somewhat detrimental to health. My hands would often get
dry and chapped from the stuff, and I would often have the taste in my mouth
for days on end.

The biggest challenge after cleaning the machine will be knowing what to oil
and what to grease - some components such as the spring clutches should not
be oiled - or oiled sparingly with light oil - and some components should be
greased (the Cycle Clutch has a hole by which you inject grease into it).
Finally, the spring clutches have a finite life, with the pinions they run
on, and the spring coils going smooth and shiny, resulting in loss of
traction, causing sluggishness, as you have described.

--
Henry Mydlarz

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"Tom" <tobee2004@aol.com> wrote in message
news:15a215ba.0312061402.2ee35333@posting.google.com...

I have an IBM Selectric 2 Correcting typewriter that works fine except
that several of the letter keys, and spacebar are sluggish and will
stick down for 5-10 seconds. Also the typewriter motor will not start
initially if it has been setting idle for some period (months). After
a short time it will run fine and will continue starting and running
fine until it sits idle for another extended time.

My gut feeling says that it really needs cleaning and lubed as it has
never had that done in the 25 years I've owned it. Any old IBM guys
who know if that is much of a job without a service manual? I've
taken off the cover and the existing lubrication is definitely old and
on the tacky side. Any recommendation on the lube point for the
sticky keys and spacebar? Would sewing machine oil be appropriate
or how about WD40?

I rarely use it (like maybe once a year) and have never used it more
than the occasional home written letter (pre computer). I bought it
from the original owner who also had used it lightly in a home
business. He bought it new in 1973. I was hoping to get it running
again for occasional use without taking it into a shop and probably
spending more than it's worth. Thanks for any help.

 

[Henry Mydlarz]

ALSO - Very Important! Do not dislodge the two steel tapes (Rotate Tape and
Tilt Tape). They will usually become instantly damaged and hard if not
impossible to replace.

--
Henry Mydlarz

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[klm]

On Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:15:18 +1100, "Henry Mydlarz"
<hemyd@optushome.com.au> wrote:

Back in the 1970s at IBM, as part of a recondition we used to bathe such
machines in a solvent bath, then lubricate the relevant components with a
mixture of oil and solvent applied through the bath after the pure solvent
cleansing. Lastly, oil and grease were applied where necessary - then worn
parts were replaced where necessary.

I had fixed mechanical and electromechanical typewriters including
Selectrics a long time ago. The solvent bath was ordinary paint
solvent VARSOL in a big tank. Air was bubbled through the solvent to
agitate it.

For your cleaning remove the covers (J hooks on either side of the
inside of the cover.) Remove the platen and any other parts that can
come loose without using tools. Remove the bottom panel. Fill a
spray botttle with solvent and use that to spray clean the components
inside. After most of the gunk has been washed out set the motor
running, engage a few keystrokes to cycle the mechanism. Spray more
solvent to clean. Use a brush to help clean the mechanism.

Let the solvent drip dry. After that use sewing machine oil to
relubricate. Don't use grease as they tend to dry and become
abrasive.

 

[Alan Douglas]

I have a Selectric II also, in about the same condition, and
managed to get a xerox of the service manual at one point, to help
keep it running. A couple of questions that aren't addressed in the
manual:

Is it possible to replace the foam dust shield under the keys,
without dismantling anything?

Likewise, the drive belt? Seems you'd have to remove a shaft, to
get the belt out.

Actually I have three Selectrics, and solved some nagging problems
simply by obtaining another, over the years, but now the newest one
is slow to wake up if I don't use it frequently.

Thanks, Alan

 

[Henry Mydlarz]

I have to jog my memory, but I wouldn't replace the rubber underlay - just
rip it out (gently) and ditch it. It becomes hard and causes the keys to
stick.

As far as replacing transport cables, like replacing the steel rotate tape,
it is not a job for the timid. The cables are spring loaded and can come
apart easily when you don't want them to. To replace them the shaft has to
be positioned in a certain way by the use of a Hand Cycle Wheel - the HCW is
a small wheel that screws on to the right end of the main shaft, and is used
for a large variety of tasks, such as adjusting for tape wear, removing
transport cables and slow cysling of the various operations. With transport
cables there is an extra problem - there are two types. The newer ones (if
at all you can use the word "new") are nylon cords, whereas the older ones
are plastic covered steel ones. Those latter ones are a dog to remove - the
backspace actuator has to be cycled to lock the main transport pulley to
prevent it from unfurling the cable - I used to dread getting jobs like
that!

Much easier replacing motherboards...........

--
Henry Mydlarz

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"Alan Douglas" <adouglasatgis.net> wrote in message
news:m486tvo3195opcg1cf0d687oksupc184dp@4ax.com...

I have a Selectric II also, in about the same condition, and
managed to get a xerox of the service manual at one point, to help
keep it running. A couple of questions that aren't addressed in the
manual:

Is it possible to replace the foam dust shield under the keys,
without dismantling anything?

Likewise, the drive belt? Seems you'd have to remove a shaft, to
get the belt out.

Actually I have three Selectrics, and solved some nagging problems
simply by obtaining another, over the years, but now the newest one
is slow to wake up if I don't use it frequently.

Thanks, Alan