I installed a GCFI, it has no output....

[amdx]

I purchased GFNT2-3W GCFI from Amazon. (Leviton)
 I have 124V between the screw where the white wire goes and the screw
where the black wire goes. I have the ground wire connected. I have no
voltage on the outlets. The GFCI show no sign of being tripped.
Resetting does nothing. I did a continuity test on the remaining two
GCFIs, I have no continuity between Hot and the outlet pin or N and the
outlet pin. The green screw and the outlet ground pin does have
continuity. I\'m not using it to power another outlet and I do have power
to the proper screw terminals.
 Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?

                                                      Mikek


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[Grant Taylor]

On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:

Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?

I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.



--
Grant. . . .
unix || die

 

[amdx]

On 9/22/2020 7:15 PM, Grant Taylor wrote:

On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?

I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset.  This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is
turned on /without/ someone intervening.  This is probably a safety
factor. Sort of like a latching switch.  You have to turn it on, but
it will hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on.  I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so.  If I unplug it, I hear
the click when I unplug it.  Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. 
I must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.

 Well, I thought I knew how they worked, but something is not coming
together here. I don\'t think it works like the one on your pressure
washer, but it sure doesn\'t work like I expected.

I have one powered and two un-powered, but it seems neither has continuity.

I\'ll be calling Leviton in the morning to find out what I\'m missing.

                                       Mikek


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[Ricketty C]

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:

On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?

I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.

He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

--

Rick C.

- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[amdx]

On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

 sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!




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[legg]

On Tue, 22 Sep 2020 16:26:06 -0500, amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:

I purchased GFNT2-3W GCFI from Amazon. (Leviton)
 I have 124V between the screw where the white wire goes and the screw
where the black wire goes. I have the ground wire connected. I have no
voltage on the outlets. The GFCI show no sign of being tripped.
Resetting does nothing. I did a continuity test on the remaining two
GCFIs, I have no continuity between Hot and the outlet pin or N and the
outlet pin. The green screw and the outlet ground pin does have
continuity. I\'m not using it to power another outlet and I do have power
to the proper screw terminals.
 Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?

                                                      Mikek

Are you just measuring the input, or have you loaded the input
without the GFI recently.

You will get measurements on a live wire, even with a lousy
neutral connection. That\'s what a GFI is supposed to protect
you from.

Load the line and check its functionality before the GFI.

RL

 

[Ricketty C]

On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 8:09:16 AM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

 sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!

Yes, many things are that way, they are no problem... until they are. Many people in the meantime refuse to believe it is a problem... until it is and it is too late to prevent it.

Hope your eye is fine.

So does your GFCI have an LED light or is it not the part number you gave us?

--

Rick C.

+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[bud--]

On 9/23/2020 6:09 AM, amdx wrote:

On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset.  This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening.  This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch.  You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on.  I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so.  If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it.  Simply plugging it in is not sufficient.  I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the
reset.  This was the first thing he described.  He is only checking
for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power
unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating
status.  A green light means it is working and there should be power
on the outlets.  A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in
that order.  If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced.  No
light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

In the good-old-days the load terminals connected directly to the
receptacle. If you wired it backwards line-load the receptacle would
never disconnect (not be protected). It seemed to work with test-reset,
and downstream loads would be GFCI protected.

They changed them so when tripped the line, load, and receptacle are all
disconnected from each other, which eliminates the problem above. You
have to reset the GFCI for it to work. If wired line-load backwards it
can\'t be reset.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 

[amdx]

On 9/24/2020 8:35 AM, Ricketty C wrote:

On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 8:09:16 AM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

 sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!
Yes, many things are that way, they are no problem... until they are. Many people in the meantime refuse to believe it is a problem... until it is and it is too late to prevent it.

Hope your eye is fine.

So does your GFCI have an LED light or is it not the part number you gave us?

It does have an LED light, but the only time I see it glow is when I
reset the GFCI.

And then it is only a momentary red glow during the reset. It does not
glow when the GFCI is tripped.

My eye feels fine, which it always did a day after taking out my contact
any other time I had irritation.

I see the doc again tomorrow, he will let me know if it is healing
internally. I suspect it will be fine,

but I really, really, like my contacts and don\'t like glasses, so there
may be a dilemma.

Mikek


--
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[Ricketty C]

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 12:40:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

On 9/24/2020 8:35 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 8:09:16 AM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset.. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

 sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!
Yes, many things are that way, they are no problem... until they are. Many people in the meantime refuse to believe it is a problem... until it is and it is too late to prevent it.

Hope your eye is fine.

So does your GFCI have an LED light or is it not the part number you gave us?

It does have an LED light, but the only time I see it glow is when I
reset the GFCI.

And then it is only a momentary red glow during the reset. It does not
glow when the GFCI is tripped.

My eye feels fine, which it always did a day after taking out my contact
any other time I had irritation.

I see the doc again tomorrow, he will let me know if it is healing
internally. I suspect it will be fine,

but I really, really, like my contacts and don\'t like glasses, so there
may be a dilemma.

Glad your eye is doing better. I have a good friend who is blind. It\'s not something to muck about with.

https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/SmartlockPro_Self-Test_Brochure.pdf

They say normal operation is green, red means the device is faulty, no LED is GFCI tripped or no power to the device. Better than they used to be... if the LED can be seen without getting your nose in the device. One of mine is about 20\" off the floor in the garage and I can\'t get down there to look it in the eye anymore.

--

Rick C.

-- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
-- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[amdx]

On 9/24/2020 1:02 PM, Ricketty C wrote:

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 12:40:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:35 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 8:09:16 AM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset. This means that an unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power is turned
on /without/ someone intervening. This is probably a safety factor.
Sort of like a latching switch. You have to turn it on, but it will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on. I can hear a little
click and see a light turn on when I do so. If I unplug it, I hear the
click when I unplug it. Simply plugging it in is not sufficient. I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the reset. This was the first thing he described. He is only checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the operating status. A green light means it is working and there should be power on the outlets. A red light means try the test, then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty and should be replaced. No light means it is ether tripped or there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

 The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great excuse
for missing it!)*

 The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

 sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!
Yes, many things are that way, they are no problem... until they are. Many people in the meantime refuse to believe it is a problem... until it is and it is too late to prevent it.

Hope your eye is fine.

So does your GFCI have an LED light or is it not the part number you gave us?

It does have an LED light, but the only time I see it glow is when I
reset the GFCI.

And then it is only a momentary red glow during the reset. It does not
glow when the GFCI is tripped.

My eye feels fine, which it always did a day after taking out my contact
any other time I had irritation.

I see the doc again tomorrow, he will let me know if it is healing
internally. I suspect it will be fine,

but I really, really, like my contacts and don\'t like glasses, so there
may be a dilemma.
Glad your eye is doing better. I have a good friend who is blind. It\'s not something to muck about with.

https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/SmartlockPro_Self-Test_Brochure.pdf

They say normal operation is green, red means the device is faulty, no LED is GFCI tripped or no power to the device. Better than they used to be... if the LED can be seen without getting your nose in the device. One of mine is about 20\" off the floor in the garage and I can\'t get down there to look it in the eye anymore.

Odd that I don\'t have a green LED on, I read that GCFIs trip at 4 to
6ma, the test button does trip it, but I\'ll try an 6ma external load to
ground just to be sure.


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[amdx]

On 9/24/2020 6:56 PM, amdx wrote:

On 9/24/2020 1:02 PM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 12:40:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/24/2020 8:35 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 8:09:16 AM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/23/2020 1:12 AM, Ricketty C wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 8:15:19 PM UTC-4, Grant Taylor
wrote:
On 9/22/20 3:26 PM, amdx wrote:
Is it normal for unpowered GCFI to not have H and N continuity
from
the screws to the outlet pins?
I don\'t /know/.

But I do /speculate/ that at least the hot, if not the hot and
neutral
would be open until the outlet is reset.  This means that an
unpowered
outlet probably would be open.

My hunch is that this is part of the safety measure that the outlet
can\'t /automatically/ start powering something when feed power
is turned
on /without/ someone intervening.  This is probably a safety
factor.
Sort of like a latching switch.  You have to turn it on, but it
will
hold itself on until it has a reason to trip and turn off.

I know that the GFCI that\'s built into the end of my pressure
washer
cord also requires me to explicitly turn it on.  I can hear a
little
click and see a light turn on when I do so.  If I unplug it, I
hear the
click when I unplug it.  Simply plugging it in is not
sufficient.  I
must also reset the GFCI built into the end of the cord.
He did connect power and a ground, but with no load and hit the
reset.  This was the first thing he described. He is only
checking for continuity as a second method.

I don\'t know of any reason why his outlet would not provide power
unless either he is connecting it wrong or it is defective.

I read the product brochure and it has an LED to show the
operating status.  A green light means it is working and there
should be power on the outlets.  A red light means try the test,
then reset buttons in that order. If it stays red it is faulty
and should be replaced.  No light means it is ether tripped or
there is no power in the circuit.

Mike didn\'t say anything about the lights.

Thanks Ricketty, you set me on the right path.

    The GFCI is shipped in the tripped position, and that does
open both H
and N between the screw terminal and the outlets. Thus no continuity.

I followed the procedure list which I had missed! (I have a great
excuse
for missing it!)*

    The reset button is hard to push, I had to use a toothbrush
handle, it
needs to be push deeper than you can do it with a finger.

It finally did reset and works, I used the test button and tripped it
and reset it again. All is working now.

Thanks, Mikek

*I woke up with an irritated eye, extremely light sensitive, I
could not
look at my computer screen even with sunglasses on.

I went to the eye doc, he said I have developed a problem from
contact
overwearing. Adding I had a build up of white blood cells,

    sterile something or other. He told not to wear my contacts at
all,
and I may or may not end up with a little scar tissue.

I got eye drops and an ointment.

Feeling much better today.

Note of caution, I\'ve been wearing contacts for over 20 years, I
never
took them out even when I slept.

I only removed them when they fell out or were uncomfortable. Often I
would wear them a month, never had a problem, until I did!
Yes, many things are that way, they are no problem... until they
are.  Many people in the meantime refuse to believe it is a
problem... until it is and it is too late to prevent it.

Hope your eye is fine.

So does your GFCI have an LED light or is it not the part number
you gave us?

It does have an LED light, but the only time I see it glow is when I
reset the GFCI.

And then it is only a momentary red glow during the reset. It does not
glow when the GFCI is tripped.

My eye feels fine, which it always did a day after taking out my
contact
any other time I had irritation.

I see the doc again tomorrow, he will let me know if it is healing
internally. I suspect it will be fine,

but I really, really, like my contacts and don\'t like glasses, so there
may be a dilemma.
Glad your eye is doing better.  I have a good friend who is blind. 
It\'s not something to muck about with.

https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/SmartlockPro_Self-Test_Brochure.pdf

They say normal operation is green, red means the device is faulty,
no LED is GFCI tripped or no power to the device. Better than they
used to be... if the LED can be seen without getting your nose in the
device.  One of mine is about 20\" off the floor in the garage and I
can\'t get down there to look it in the eye anymore.

Odd that I don\'t have a green LED on, I read that GCFIs trip at 4 to
6ma, the test button does trip it, but I\'ll try an 6ma external load
to ground just to be sure.


 I just looked at it after dark, the green LED is lit!

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