HP 30s screen & brain have been water-damaged, but I enjoyed

[Merciadri Luca]

Hi,

I have some old HP 30s, and as every HP stuff, I like it.

The problem is that some strange guy threw water on it when I was at
secondary school. It does not perform correct computations anymore,
i.e. it does not deal correctly at all with powers, but there is also
a screen problem.

How could I repair it? I can still change the screen, but for the
calculations?

Thanks.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 14 May 2010 14:04:06 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca
<merciadriluca@gmail.com> wrote:

I have some old HP 30s, and as every HP stuff, I like it.

The problem is that some strange guy threw water on it when I was at
secondary school. It does not perform correct computations anymore,
i.e. it does not deal correctly at all with powers, but there is also
a screen problem.

How could I repair it? I can still change the screen, but for the
calculations?

Tear them apart and clean the guts with a dry paint brush. It
probably has some corrosion damage from the soaking.

Also, there are 8ea HP-30s calculators on eBay for an average prices
of about $15/ea.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

 

[ChrisCoaster]

On May 14, 5:04 pm, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi,

I have some old HP 30s, and as every HP stuff, I like it.

The problem is that some strange guy threw water on it when I was at
secondary school. It does not perform correct computations anymore,
i.e. it does not deal correctly at all with powers, but there is also
a screen problem.

How could I repair it? I can still change the screen, but for the
calculations?

Thanks.
___________________

In hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator. That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc. The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun. Reassemble and it *should* work
like new. That was all that was spilt on it - water?

-CC

 

[Merciadri Luca]

Tear them apart and clean the guts with a dry paint brush.  It
probably has some corrosion damage from the soaking.
Done, nothing better.

Also, there are 8ea HP-30s calculators on eBay for an average prices
of about $15/ea.
Yeah, I know, but I even have a HP-50g, which is clearly better. That

is not the problem. The problem is that I like(d) this calculator.

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

In hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator.  That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc.  The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun.  Reassemble and it *should* work
like new.  That was all that was spilt on it - water?
Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only

all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.

 

[ChrisCoaster]

On May 15, 7:21 am, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:> In hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator.  That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc.  The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun.  Reassemble and it *should* work
like new.  That was all that was spilt on it - water?

Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only
all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.
_______________

That slight damage to the circuitry may be all it takes. The width of
the paths of those ciruits is designed to carry specific voltages with
a specific resistence. If one is cut even slightly through the proper
voltage(signal) will not reach its intended destination. That is all
I know about that and someone else may have a better answer.

In addition, they may also have a better answer than the one already
provided to the problem I posted about my JVC VHS-DVD combo video
heads(!)

-CC

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 15, 3:13 pm, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

On May 15, 7:21 am, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:> In hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator.  That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc.  The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun.  Reassemble and it *should* work
like new.  That was all that was spilt on it - water?

Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only
all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.

_______________
That slight damage to the circuitry may be all it takes.  The width of
the paths of those ciruits is designed to carry specific voltages with
a specific resistance. If one is cut even slightly through the proper
voltage(signal) will not reach its intended destination.  That is all
I know about that and someone else may have a better answer.

In addition, they may also have a better answer than the one already
provided to the problem I posted about my JVC VHS-DVD combo video
heads(!)
Thanks. I'll wait for other messages. Such a pity. I liked this

calculator

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Merciadri Luca" <merciadriluca@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b42a07c5-152a-468a-be79-253570ea3167@p17g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
On May 15, 3:13 pm, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

On May 15, 7:21 am, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:> In
hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator. That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc. The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun. Reassemble and it *should* work
like new. That was all that was spilt on it - water?

Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only
all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.

_______________
That slight damage to the circuitry may be all it takes. The width of
the paths of those ciruits is designed to carry specific voltages with
a specific resistance. If one is cut even slightly through the proper
voltage(signal) will not reach its intended destination. That is all
I know about that and someone else may have a better answer.

In addition, they may also have a better answer than the one already
provided to the problem I posted about my JVC VHS-DVD combo video
heads(!)
Thanks. I'll wait for other messages. Such a pity. I liked this

calculator


Do you have a soldering iorn? If so you can fix the broken traces. It isn't
that complicated with a little practice..

Maybe someone around here knows a good website for soldering techniques. Or
just serarch the history of this group. It has been discussed many times.

Best of luck.

Mike

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 15 May 2010 03:58:41 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca
<merciadriluca@gmail.com> wrote:

Tear them apart and clean the guts with a dry paint brush.  It
probably has some corrosion damage from the soaking.

Done, nothing better.

Did you actually take it apart? Here are HP's useless disassembly
instructions (for recyclers):
<http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Countries/_MultiCountry/disassembly_calcul_2006813145716.pdf>
Try washing it again with CLEAN water to remove any contaminants and
salt crud. Use a paint brush for cleaning. Use an air compressor and
air gun to blow off as much water as possible. Let air dry for at
least 24 hours. Try again.

Also, there are 8ea HP-30s calculators on eBay for an average prices
of about $15/ea.

Yeah, I know, but I even have a HP-50g, which is clearly better. That
is not the problem. The problem is that I like(d) this calculator.

Yech. It's really an HP relabeled Kinpo calculator.
<http://www.rskey.org/detail.asp?manufacturer=Hewlett-Packard&model=HP-30S>
There's no exact equivalent but this is close:
<http://www.kinpo.com.tw/English/Calculator.htm#sr19d1>

This self test might be useful:
<http://www.rskey.org/~mwsebastian/selftest/hp_test.htm#hp30s>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 15, 7:12 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 May 2010 03:58:41 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca

merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:
Tear them apart and clean the guts with a dry paint brush.  It
probably has some corrosion damage from the soaking.
Done, nothing better.

Did you actually take it apart?
Yes, if taking apart means disassembling.
 Here are HP's useless disassembly
instructions (for recyclers):
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Co...
Thanks.
Try washing it again with CLEAN water to remove any contaminants and
salt crud.  Use a paint brush for cleaning.  Use an air compressor and
air gun to blow off as much water as possible.  Let air dry for at
least 24 hours.  Try again.
I'll try, but the broken board is surely not going to be influenced in

some better way by this.

Also, there are 8ea HP-30s calculators on eBay for an average prices
of about $15/ea.
Yeah, I know, but I even have a HP-50g, which is clearly better. That
is not the problem. The problem is that I like(d) this calculator.

Yech.  It's really an HP relabeled Kinpo calculator.  
http://www.rskey.org/detail.asp?manufacturer=Hewlett-Packard&model=HP...
There's no exact equivalent but this is close:
http://www.kinpo.com.tw/English/Calculator.htm#sr19d1

This self test might be useful:
http://www.rskey.org/~mwsebastian/selftest/hp_test.htm#hp30s
Thanks. If it ever works again, I'll try it. The problem is that, as

written before, my calculator won't power on anymore, surely because
of the broken board.

The screen problem was, considering http://www.rskey.org/images/large/hp30s..jpg
that, at the place of the `6' I was only getting something like `|'.

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 15, 6:47 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <m...@nospam.com> wrote:

"Merciadri Luca" <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:b42a07c5-152a-468a-be79-253570ea3167@p17g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
On May 15, 3:13 pm, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

On May 15, 7:21 am, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:> In
hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator. That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc. The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun. Reassemble and it *should* work
like new. That was all that was spilt on it - water?

Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only
all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.

_______________
That slight damage to the circuitry may be all it takes. The width of
the paths of those ciruits is designed to carry specific voltages with
a specific resistance. If one is cut even slightly through the proper
voltage(signal) will not reach its intended destination. That is all
I know about that and someone else may have a better answer.

In addition, they may also have a better answer than the one already
provided to the problem I posted about my JVC VHS-DVD combo video
heads(!)

Thanks. I'll wait for other messages. Such a pity. I liked this
calculator

Do you have a soldering iorn? If so you can fix the broken traces. It isn't
that complicated with a little practice..

Maybe someone around here knows a good website for soldering techniques. Or
just serarch the history of this group. It has been discussed many times.
Thanks. I'll try to get one, and to make it work. But chances to

succeed seem to be very low: this is a thin board, just like there:
http://alexpb.com/notes/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/keyboard_electronic_board_2resized.jpg
(where some conducting `lines' [sorry, i'm such a newbie in this] have
been broken).

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:38:14 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca
<merciadriluca@gmail.com> wrote:

Okay, you might check
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01473.jpg
(broken board)
(...)

Your Sony Ericsson K750 cell phone camera has a macro mode for close
focus. Please use it. With the flash off, you might also need some
more light.
<http://www.mobileburn.com/review.jsp?Page=4&Id=1393>

If you have a broken trace, just scrape off the insulation with a
small screwdriver and tin what's left of the trace with some solder.
Then, take a fine wire (one strand from a piece of stranded hookup
wire) and solder it over the tinned traces. This does take some
practice.

Do NOT touch the epoxy mound with the calculator chip under it. Just
pushing on the epoxy will break the wire bonds underneath.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 15, 8:14 pm, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 6:47 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <m...@nospam.com> wrote:

"Merciadri Luca" <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:b42a07c5-152a-468a-be79-253570ea3167@p17g2000vbe.googlegroups.com....
On May 15, 3:13 pm, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

On May 15, 7:21 am, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:

On May 15, 3:59 am, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:> In
hindsight, no buttons should have been pressed even after you wiped
off the exterior of the calculator. That is - no circuits should have
been allowed to complete - what happens when you press buttons on the
calc. The calc should be dismantled - if readily so - and allowed to
dry under a bright lamp or the sun. Reassemble and it *should* work
like new. That was all that was spilt on it - water?

Yes, only water. The problem is that water was spilt on it not only
all over one face, but over both faces.

After having opened it, etc., I also realized that the main board is
slightly broken at its end: some circuitry portion is raised upward,
showing some slight damage, probably done with a screwdriver. I assume
that the whole stuff was sticking out because after having opened the
calculator (to see this and to check connections) and closed it, it
does not work anymore. I re-opened it, did my best to join both parts,
but it does not want to work anymore. Is it ready for the trash? It
only shows slight damage.

Thanks.

_______________
That slight damage to the circuitry may be all it takes. The width of
the paths of those ciruits is designed to carry specific voltages with
a specific resistance. If one is cut even slightly through the proper
voltage(signal) will not reach its intended destination. That is all
I know about that and someone else may have a better answer.

In addition, they may also have a better answer than the one already
provided to the problem I posted about my JVC VHS-DVD combo video
heads(!)

Thanks. I'll wait for other messages. Such a pity. I liked this
calculator

Do you have a soldering iorn? If so you can fix the broken traces. It isn't
that complicated with a little practice..

Maybe someone around here knows a good website for soldering techniques.. Or
just serarch the history of this group. It has been discussed many times.

Thanks. I'll try to get one, and to make it work. But chances to
succeed seem to be very low: this is a thin board, just like there:http://alexpb.com/notes/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/keyboard_electroni...
(where some conducting `lines' [sorry, i'm such a newbie in this] have
been broken).

Okay, you might check
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01473.jpg
(broken board)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01476.jpg
(ditto)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01477.jpg
(ditto)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01478.jpg
(red conn ok)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01479.jpg
(ditto)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01480.jpg
(black conn ok)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01481.jpg
(ditto)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01482.jpg
(screen ok)
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01483.jpg
(ditto)

for pictures of the problem. I could use a soldering iron, but would
it ever come it to life?

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 16, 6:53 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:38:14 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca

merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:
Okay, you might check
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01...
(broken board)

(...)

Your Sony Ericsson K750 cell phone camera has a macro mode for close
focus.  Please use it.  With the flash off, you might also need some
more light.
http://www.mobileburn.com/review.jsp?Page=4&Id=1393
I tried. Sorry, I had forgotten.

If you have a broken trace, just scrape off the insulation with a
small screwdriver and tin what's left of the trace with some solder.
Then, take a fine wire (one strand from a piece of stranded hookup
wire) and solder it over the tinned traces.  This does take some
practice.

Do NOT touch the epoxy mound with the calculator chip under it.  Just
pushing on the epoxy will break the wire bonds underneath.
Here are some details:

http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01484.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01486.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01487.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01489.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01490.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01491.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01492.jpg

I also noticed that there is some broken trace on another part of the
board:
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01493.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01494.jpg

(`downmost' trace)

It seems that the broken part of the trace was too small to ever try
introducing a wire there. After having pressed a lot, and tried to
solder the whole (without an iron, okay), here is what I get:
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01495.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01496.jpg

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Merciadri Luca" <merciadriluca@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cacfc943-b546-47b3-89ac-f38a5cab41ba@o15g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On May 16, 6:53 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Sun, 16 May 2010 09:38:14 -0700 (PDT), Merciadri Luca

merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:
Okay, you might check
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01...
(broken board)

(...)

Your Sony Ericsson K750 cell phone camera has a macro mode for close
focus. Please use it. With the flash off, you might also need some
more light.
http://www.mobileburn.com/review.jsp?Page=4&Id=1393
I tried. Sorry, I had forgotten.

If you have a broken trace, just scrape off the insulation with a
small screwdriver and tin what's left of the trace with some solder.
Then, take a fine wire (one strand from a piece of stranded hookup
wire) and solder it over the tinned traces. This does take some
practice.

Do NOT touch the epoxy mound with the calculator chip under it. Just
pushing on the epoxy will break the wire bonds underneath.
Here are some details:

http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01484.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01486.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01487.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01489.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01490.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01491.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01492.jpg

I also noticed that there is some broken trace on another part of the
board:
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01493.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01494.jpg

(`downmost' trace)

It seems that the broken part of the trace was too small to ever try
introducing a wire there. After having pressed a lot, and tried to
solder the whole (without an iron, okay), here is what I get:
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01495.jpg
http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01496.jpg


It looks to me that the traces aren't broken... Only the green solder mask
is scratched off.
The solder mask is like a acrylic paint to keep stray solder from making a
bridge between
two different traces. Your problem is elsewhere.

And by the way do you know what macro mode on a camera is? It is for taking
pictures of
things that are very small and close. It ususally has a picture of a small
flower on the button.
You can focus on the board using macro mode without it being blurry.

Example
<http://www.popmonkeys.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/canon-sd880-video-macro-mode.jpg>

Anyhow.. I would check the batteries and see if they are properly seated and
are in the correct polarity. Ex. + / - correct.

Take some more pictures and come back.

Good luck..
Mike

 

[Merciadri Luca]

On May 18, 5:17 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <m...@nospam.com> wrote:

It looks to me that the traces aren't broken... Only the green solder mask
is scratched off.
But the first one I shown is clearly broken, isn't it?
The solder mask is like a acrylic paint to keep stray solder from making a bridge between two different traces.
Yes. But, take e.g. http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01484.jpg.

On this picture, isn't it clear that the trace is broken?

Your problem is elsewhere.
Okay, but where, then? I have checked polarities, and everything was

working before opening it!

And by the way do you know what macro mode on a camera is? It is for taking
pictures of
things that are very small and close. It ususally has a picture of a small
flower on the button.
You can focus on the board using macro mode without it being blurry.
I know.
Example
http://www.popmonkeys.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/canon-sd880-vide...
Upsetting, as I _know_ what a macro mode is. For the first pictures of

the thread, I had forgotten that it existed on my mobile phone. But,
for the pictures I presented in my previous message, I used the macro
mode. Sorry, but it is an old mobile phone (K750i), and the board
reflects light. I *did* use the macro mode, and not the zoom. I'm not
that stupid.

Anyhow.. I would check the batteries and see if they are properly seated and
are in the correct polarity. Ex. + / - correct.
Checked.

Take some more pictures and come back.
Which pictures could I ever take? I have no other camera, and

http://www.student.montefiore.ulg.ac.be/~merciadri/hp30s_broken/dsc01484.jpg
is the best I can do.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 29 May 2010 04:15:41 +0000 (UTC),
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

I love old HP stuff. I still have my HP41C calculator and my HP2621a
terminal. ANd they work fine. But I might suggest if your really love
the HP RPN, to get a software version for your computer. There is one
that has both HP12 financial and HP11 engineering modes by Osvaldo
Ramos Tsan Hu, a chemical engineering professor. It works in Portable
Apps off my USB fob.

Yep. I have one on my iPod Touch:
<http://www.creativecreek.com>
Also one on my cell phone. None on my computah as I have the real
thing handy. In the office, it's an HP35s. At home, it's an HP41cv.
I've used algebraic calculators, but I much prefer RPN.

More:
<http://www.hpmuseum.org/simulate/simulate.htm>
<http://www.hp.com/sbso/product/calculators-emulators/usemulator.html>
<http://www.hpcalc.org/hp49/pc/emulators/>
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

 

I love old HP stuff. I still have my HP41C calculator and my HP2621a
terminal. ANd they work fine. But I might suggest if your really love
the HP RPN, to get a software version for your computer. There is one
that has both HP12 financial and HP11 engineering modes by Osvaldo
Ramos Tsan Hu, a chemical engineering professor. It works in Portable
Apps off my USB fob.



- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
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