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Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A singleThis is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:
http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg
What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?
Wire-wrap was considered an adequate technique for a decade.This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:
http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg
What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?
Thanks,
Dave
Sounds good.Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Not using it as earbuds. Just re-purposing the cord for a cordedPlan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
Very interesting.Wire-wrap was considered an adequate technique for a decade.
2 pieces of very fine stripped wire, lay alongside each one , ends laying
together, a microdot of hotmelt glue on the ends and then when cool gives
something to twist between fingers, then coat with more hotmelt as
insulation. No actual soldering
I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from theThis is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:
http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg
What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?
Thanks,
Dave
You can tin the wire in a solder pot...or blob of solder on the end ofOn Wed, 20 Feb 2013 23:06:45 -0800, DaveC<invalid@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:
http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg
What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?
Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Plan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
I don't understand the technique.Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Jeff L.
Problem is that it will break almost instantly at the transition point from
stiff to flexible.
The technique mentioned above seems to be an excellent solution to that
problem.
Mike
No, I think the wrapping wire creates a strain relief for a way back from theThen I solder not the tinsel wire but only the wrapping wire beyond the end
of the tinsel wire? This looks like there is no actual soldering of the
tinsel at all (which is intentional, I presume, to avoid stress points).
Sorry. I couldn't tell if it was coated or bare tinsel.I don't understand the technique.
Take a knife and scrape off some of the insulation. You don't need toThe wire is enameled (insulated). Do I prepare the wire by burning (or
sanding) off some of the enamel first?
Yes. The part that goes over the insulation acts as a mechanicalI start wrapping back a way and wrap toward the end of the wire?
Correct.Then I solder not the tinsel wire but only the wrapping wire beyond the end
of the tinsel wire?
Correct. You just need a mechanical connection. If this were someThis looks like there is no actual soldering of the
tinsel at all (which is intentional, I presume, to avoid stress points).
My kind of guy/Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Sounds good.
Plan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
Not using it as earbuds. Just re-purposing the cord for a corded
single-earphone-with-mic unit. Have both, and am an avid "not to the landfill
will you go" kind of guy...
And beside, I'll learn something new (ie, soldering tinsel wire).
Yes, even before I r ead your post, I remembed reading that enamelOn Feb 21, 2:06 am, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
This is one conductor in a cable from some iPod earphones:
http://www.tinyuploads.com/images/mizPu4.jpg
What is the best way to deal with the fibre strands and to tin the wire?
Thanks,
Dave
I did something like that... I just teased the wire away from the
fibers, cut the fibers, and the enamel on the wire burned off from the
heat of the soldering iron.
George H.
Another problem with very fine wire is that it dissolves in solder.Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Sounds good.
Plan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
Not using it as earbuds. Just re-purposing the cord for a corded
single-earphone-with-mic unit. Have both, and am an avid "not to the landfill
will you go" kind of guy...
And beside, I'll learn something new (ie, soldering tinsel wire).
Dave
Is this for the same reason solder tips dissolve in solder (slowly).On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 00:50:00 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:
Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Sounds good.
Plan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
Not using it as earbuds. Just re-purposing the cord for a corded
single-earphone-with-mic unit. Have both, and am an avid "not to the landfill
will you go" kind of guy...
And beside, I'll learn something new (ie, soldering tinsel wire).
Dave
Another problem with very fine wire is that it dissolves in solder.
They do make/sell solders with high copper content to deal with that.
Ersin "savebit" is one such (sold with the idea that soldering iron
bits will dissolve or erode more slowly if the solder already contains
copper.
That is the theory... If you slowly feed something like 32 or higherOn Fri, 22 Feb 2013 08:56:28 -0500, default <none@noname.net> wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2013 00:50:00 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:
Plan A: Find a short length of very fine uninsulated wire. A single
strand from some stranded wire is what I use. Wrap it around the
insulation about 2 times, and then continue wrapping around the tinsel
wire. Clip off the excess at the end. Solder the wrapped wire to the
replacement connector.
Sounds good.
Plan B: Buy a new iPod earphone. They're cheaper than the replacment
connector.
Not using it as earbuds. Just re-purposing the cord for a corded
single-earphone-with-mic unit. Have both, and am an avid "not to the
landfill
will you go" kind of guy...
And beside, I'll learn something new (ie, soldering tinsel wire).
Dave
Another problem with very fine wire is that it dissolves in solder.
Is this for the same reason solder tips dissolve in solder (slowly).
I only use resin core, never acid core, and still the tips disappear
after years. I wouldn't mind except I had trouble finding new
screw-on tips a few years ago, because in the hobbyist-priced irons
they've gone back to screw-in tips.
They do make/sell solders with high copper content to deal with that.
Ersin "savebit" is one such (sold with the idea that soldering iron
bits will dissolve or erode more slowly if the solder already contains
copper.
I just tried it with one strand from 24 AWG stranded wire, which isThat is the theory... If you slowly feed something like 32 or higher
AWG wire onto a hot, heavily tinned, tip you can watch it dissapear.
---On 24 Feb 2013 16:47:58 GMT, "Default" <none@noname.net> wrote:
That is the theory... If you slowly feed something like 32 or higher
AWG wire onto a hot, heavily tinned, tip you can watch it dissapear.
I just tried it with one strand from 24 AWG stranded wire, which is
made from 7 strands of 32 AWG. I held the iron on the wire for about
5 minutes and nothing disappeared. Perhaps it's because my soldering
iron tip runs at about 400 C while copper melts at about 1085 C?
Thanks. That makes sense, but I'm still skeptical. So, I tried itOn Sun, 24 Feb 2013 12:36:51 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com
wrote:
On 24 Feb 2013 16:47:58 GMT, "Default" <none@noname.net> wrote:
That is the theory... If you slowly feed something like 32 or higher
AWG wire onto a hot, heavily tinned, tip you can watch it dissapear.
I just tried it with one strand from 24 AWG stranded wire, which is
made from 7 strands of 32 AWG. I held the iron on the wire for about
5 minutes and nothing disappeared. Perhaps it's because my soldering
iron tip runs at about 400 C while copper melts at about 1085 C?
It's not so much about the melting point of copper as it about copper
dissolving into a molten tin - lead alloy.
An analogy might be sugar dissolving into water far below sugar's
melting point.
The cheap lead-free stuff I have has 0.7% Cu.From the graph, it appears that pure tin is the worst, with 60/40
being a close second. However, if there's any copper in the solder,
the copper wire doesn't want to dissolve. I'm not sure what's in the
RoHS solder on my bench. The label fell off long ago. I'll find some
more that doesn't have copper in it and see what happens.
I'll see if I can find some finer wire and try again. I want to see
the wire "disappear".
Probably should have said - single strand of soft, >= 32 AWGOn 24 Feb 2013 16:47:58 GMT, "Default" <none@noname.net> wrote:
That is the theory... If you slowly feed something like 32 or higher
AWG wire onto a hot, heavily tinned, tip you can watch it dissapear.
I just tried it with one strand from 24 AWG stranded wire, which is
made from 7 strands of 32 AWG. I held the iron on the wire for about
5 minutes and nothing disappeared. Perhaps it's because my soldering
iron tip runs at about 400 C while copper melts at about 1085 C?