How to connect wall power to PCB?

[Michael Noone]

Hi - a board I'm making is switching a 120VAC line. I'm trying to figure
out how to connect the 120VAC input and output lines to the PCB. Normal
house wire (solid, 14 awg I think, but I could be remembering wrong) will
be connected to the board. I was thinking some sort of screw mounting
system (like that which you see in most home wiring (ie switches, power
sockets, etc.). Any suggestions as to a manufacturer or a board mount
device along those lines? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks!

-Michael Noone

 

[Joerg]

Hello Michael,

Almost any connector manufacturer offer lots of different solutions
here. Take your pick:

http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Menu?M=MENU&ID=10785&LG=1&I=13

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Luhan Monat]

Michael Noone wrote:

Hi - a board I'm making is switching a 120VAC line. I'm trying to figure
out how to connect the 120VAC input and output lines to the PCB. Normal
house wire (solid, 14 awg I think, but I could be remembering wrong) will
be connected to the board. I was thinking some sort of screw mounting
system (like that which you see in most home wiring (ie switches, power
sockets, etc.). Any suggestions as to a manufacturer or a board mount
device along those lines? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks!

-Michael Noone

There are several types. Each solders to the circuit board on one side
and provides some type of screw-it-down access for the wire on the other
side.

--
Luhan Monat (luhanis 'at' yahoo 'dot' com)
"The future is not what it used to be..."
http://members.cox.net/berniekm

 

[Ken Taylor]

"Michael Noone" <mnoone.uiuc.edu@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns9629A2683B524mnooneuiucedu127001@216.196.97.136...

Hi - a board I'm making is switching a 120VAC line. I'm trying to figure
out how to connect the 120VAC input and output lines to the PCB. Normal
house wire (solid, 14 awg I think, but I could be remembering wrong) will
be connected to the board. I was thinking some sort of screw mounting
system (like that which you see in most home wiring (ie switches, power
sockets, etc.). Any suggestions as to a manufacturer or a board mount
device along those lines? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks!

-Michael Noone

Hi. I'd seriously consider mounting your switching device off the board so
that you move any mechanical (and electrical isolation) problems off-board
also. Solid core cable of that gauge is going to cause you grief at some
stage. Depending on what your switch actually is, I'd then go for screw
terminals or lugs (depending obviously on the terminals on the device) for
the 120VAC and the mechanics of the control signal(s) becomes 'trivial'.

Cheers.

Ken

 

[Chris]

"Michael Noone" <mnoone.uiuc.edu@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns9629A2683B524mnooneuiucedu127001@216.196.97.136...

Hi - a board I'm making is switching a 120VAC line. I'm trying to figure
out how to connect the 120VAC input and output lines to the PCB. Normal
house wire (solid, 14 awg I think, but I could be remembering wrong) will
be connected to the board. I was thinking some sort of screw mounting
system (like that which you see in most home wiring (ie switches, power
sockets, etc.). Any suggestions as to a manufacturer or a board mount
device along those lines? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks!

-Michael Noone

Pull apart an old toaster and have a look. They have power direct to PCB.

Cheers.

 

[John G]

"Michael Noone" <mnoone.uiuc.edu@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns9629A2683B524mnooneuiucedu127001@216.196.97.136...

Hi - a board I'm making is switching a 120VAC line. I'm trying to
figure
out how to connect the 120VAC input and output lines to the PCB.
Normal
house wire (solid, 14 awg I think, but I could be remembering wrong)
will
be connected to the board. I was thinking some sort of screw mounting
system (like that which you see in most home wiring (ie switches,
power
sockets, etc.). Any suggestions as to a manufacturer or a board mount
device along those lines? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks!

-Michael Noone

I really think if you have to ask this sort of question your experience
and training level is TOO low to be dabbling in mains powered devices.
I hope this is for your own use and not for production.
You have a lot to learn before you should attempt this sort of thing.

Nobody would connect solid wire from outside a device to a pcb.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

 

[Fritz Schlunder]

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:QFQ2e.242$406.4102@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

I really think if you have to ask this sort of question your experience
and training level is TOO low to be dabbling in mains powered devices.
I hope this is for your own use and not for production.
You have a lot to learn before you should attempt this sort of thing.

Oh good grief. The moment I read the OP's post I figured someone would have
said something like this.

Stop being so eliteist. If everyone followed your advice then noone on
earth would know how to work with mains voltage since noone is born with
innate knowledge of mains wiring practice. At some point in the learning
process everyone has to ask questions (either to other humans or to
reference materials) and find the answers.

The mains aren't all that dangerous and besides, everyone dies someday. It
is only a matter of when and how. I say it is better to live a little and
take *necessary* risks than to live a life cowering in mortal fear of
everything and ultimately end up doing nothing in life.

 

[John G]

"Fritz Schlunder" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:d2gpfp$v9k$1@domitilla.aioe.org...

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:QFQ2e.242$406.4102@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

I really think if you have to ask this sort of question your
experience
and training level is TOO low to be dabbling in mains powered
devices.
I hope this is for your own use and not for production.
You have a lot to learn before you should attempt this sort of thing.

Oh good grief. The moment I read the OP's post I figured someone
would have
said something like this.

Stop being so eliteist. If everyone followed your advice then noone
on
earth would know how to work with mains voltage since noone is born
with
innate knowledge of mains wiring practice. At some point in the
learning
process everyone has to ask questions (either to other humans or to
reference materials) and find the answers.

The mains aren't all that dangerous and besides, everyone dies
someday. It
is only a matter of when and how. I say it is better to live a little
and
take *necessary* risks than to live a life cowering in mortal fear of
everything and ultimately end up doing nothing in life.

Yeh but most people learn to crawl before they try to walk and the OP

does not know enough to be playing with mains voltages without a LOT
more training.
Anything less is suicide or murder.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

 

[Fritz Schlunder]

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:I7S2e.257$406.4929@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

Yeh but most people learn to crawl before they try to walk and the OP
does not know enough to be playing with mains voltages without a LOT
more training.

You are very judgmental of the OP. Considering the brevity of his post I
don't see how an accurate or fair assessment of his capabilities can be
made.

That said I don't see anything inherently wrong or otherwise dangerous about
what the OP was suggesting. Granted it is far more common to find products
that use a captive cable (or a detachable cable with properly molded
connections) using stranded wire and are plugging into standard outlets,
than to find a wiring scheme like the op suggested. On the other hand given
the right circumstances it is conceivable such a wiring scheme would be
justifiable. Higher power products that will always remain stationary are
possible examples (ex: house air conditioner). The OP didn't specify what
his product was or why direct wiring made sense in his application.

If you can point to a relevant code or safety standard the OP is clearly
intending to violate, I would be more swayed by your position.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 07:07:33 -0700, Fritz Schlunder wrote:

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message

Yeh but most people learn to crawl before they try to walk and the OP
does not know enough to be playing with mains voltages without a LOT
more training.

You are very judgmental of the OP. Considering the brevity of his post I
don't see how an accurate or fair assessment of his capabilities can be
made.

That said I don't see anything inherently wrong or otherwise dangerous about
what the OP was suggesting.

Well, I do, primarily wanting to connect 14 AWG solid wire to a PCB. If
OP is switching so many amps that he needs #14, then the current shouldn't
go through a PCB, unless it's specially designed for that kind of current.

One of the others mentioned a proper relay or contactor, and just do
the control circuitry on the PCB. That's probably what I'd suggest.
And stranded wire.

Thanks,
Rich

Granted it is far more common to find products
that use a captive cable (or a detachable cable with properly molded
connections) using stranded wire and are plugging into standard outlets,
than to find a wiring scheme like the op suggested. On the other hand given
the right circumstances it is conceivable such a wiring scheme would be
justifiable. Higher power products that will always remain stationary are
possible examples (ex: house air conditioner). The OP didn't specify what
his product was or why direct wiring made sense in his application.

If you can point to a relevant code or safety standard the OP is clearly
intending to violate, I would be more swayed by your position.

 

[Michael Noone]

"Fritz Schlunder" <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news:d2gpfp$v9k$1@domitilla.aioe.org:

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:QFQ2e.242$406.4102@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

I really think if you have to ask this sort of question your
experience and training level is TOO low to be dabbling in mains
powered devices. I hope this is for your own use and not for
production. You have a lot to learn before you should attempt this
sort of thing.

Oh good grief. The moment I read the OP's post I figured someone
would have said something like this.

Stop being so eliteist. If everyone followed your advice then noone
on earth would know how to work with mains voltage since noone is born
with innate knowledge of mains wiring practice. At some point in the
learning process everyone has to ask questions (either to other humans
or to reference materials) and find the answers.

The mains aren't all that dangerous and besides, everyone dies
someday. It is only a matter of when and how. I say it is better to
live a little and take *necessary* risks than to live a life cowering
in mortal fear of everything and ultimately end up doing nothing in
life.

I expected it as well, so I didn't take offense

-Michael

 

[Michael Noone]

"Fritz Schlunder" <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news:d2h040$5ru$1@domitilla.aioe.org:

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:I7S2e.257$406.4929@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

Yeh but most people learn to crawl before they try to walk and the OP
does not know enough to be playing with mains voltages without a LOT
more training.


You are very judgmental of the OP. Considering the brevity of his
post I don't see how an accurate or fair assessment of his
capabilities can be made.

That said I don't see anything inherently wrong or otherwise dangerous
about what the OP was suggesting. Granted it is far more common to
find products that use a captive cable (or a detachable cable with
properly molded connections) using stranded wire and are plugging into
standard outlets, than to find a wiring scheme like the op suggested.
On the other hand given the right circumstances it is conceivable such
a wiring scheme would be justifiable. Higher power products that will
always remain stationary are possible examples (ex: house air
conditioner). The OP didn't specify what his product was or why
direct wiring made sense in his application.

If you can point to a relevant code or safety standard the OP is
clearly intending to violate, I would be more swayed by your position.

I'm not quite sure why a cable as you describe would be necessary - this
device will be mounted within a wall, and will never be moved, thus strain
on the PCB should be non existent. By the way - I should mention that
probabaly a total of 5 or so of these will be made...

-Michael

 

[Michael Noone]

Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote in
newsan.2005.03.31.14.55.29.108571@example.net:

Well, I do, primarily wanting to connect 14 AWG solid wire to a PCB.
If OP is switching so many amps that he needs #14, then the current
shouldn't go through a PCB, unless it's specially designed for that
kind of current.

One of the others mentioned a proper relay or contactor, and just do
the control circuitry on the PCB. That's probably what I'd suggest.
And stranded wire.

Thanks,
Rich

Current should be 2-5 amps. I was planning on just using as wide of traces
as possible - probabaly about half an inch. I was also probabaly going to
put these traces on both sides of the PCB. (directly above and below each
other). The reason I'm using solid wire is because that is what is used in
house wiring - and thus what will be connecting to the device. Regards,

-Michael

 

[Joerg]

Hello Michael,

I'm not quite sure why a cable as you describe would be necessary - this
device will be mounted within a wall, and will never be moved, thus strain
on the PCB should be non existent. By the way - I should mention that
probabaly a total of 5 or so of these will be made...

There is another, simpler method used in some X10 wall switches: Wires
come out of them. These are then connected to the house wiring with wire
nuts. Not that I particularly like wire nuts or the fact that they
instruct you to mix stranded wire with the non-stranded house wire under
these wire nuts...

I have also seen that method on regular dimmer modules.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Frithiof Andreas Jensen]

"Michael Noone" <mnoone.uiuc.edu@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns962A7A88F5942mnooneuiucedu127001@204.127.199.17...

I'm not quite sure why a cable as you describe would be necessary - this
device will be mounted within a wall, and will never be moved, thus strain
on the PCB should be non existent.

Yeah, Well: My money is on some electrical contractor yanking the cable hard
at some point to see what it connects to (i.e. when it pops out through the
plaster).

By the way - I should mention that
probabaly a total of 5 or so of these will be made...

Be careful of the Insurance; Any mishap may be blamed on you.

 

[Joerg]

Hello Frithiof Andreas,

Yeah, Well: My money is on some electrical contractor yanking the cable hard
at some point to see what it connects to (i.e. when it pops out through the
plaster).

No plaster in America. It's all run through holes in the wooden studs,
occasionally tacked in place.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[John G]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:qPk3e.5699$FN4.5434@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...

Hello Frithiof Andreas,

Yeah, Well: My money is on some electrical contractor yanking the
cable hard
at some point to see what it connects to (i.e. when it pops out
through the
plaster).

No plaster in America. It's all run through holes in the wooden studs,
occasionally tacked in place.

Regards, Joerg

Sheetrock internal wall board is often called plaster, plasterboard, or

gyprock in other parts of the world.

The material will not matter. The only listing the OP will get is at the
Undertakers not Underwriters .
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

 

[Chris]

"John G" <Greentest@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:Ecl3e.296$v47.8471@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:qPk3e.5699$FN4.5434@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
Hello Frithiof Andreas,

Yeah, Well: My money is on some electrical contractor yanking the
cable hard
at some point to see what it connects to (i.e. when it pops out
through the
plaster).

No plaster in America. It's all run through holes in the wooden studs,
occasionally tacked in place.

Regards, Joerg

Sheetrock internal wall board is often called plaster, plasterboard, or
gyprock in other parts of the world.

The material will not matter. The only listing the OP will get is at the
Undertakers not Underwriters .

Undertakers??

Would that be due to electrocution? In the country I live the main group of
people killed by electrocution are electricians. This is due to the
introduction of RCD (Residual Current Devices) or otherwise called
earth/ground leakage devices. The general population is now by and large
protected.

Cheers.