Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I'm still pondering this one. The fuses inside my stereo receivers are
fine, but the reciever is dead. How could a spike/surge bypass these?
The fuse in my VCR melted like it should, preserving the device.
JJ
One word-time. some surges are so fast...fuses don't have time to blow...I'm still pondering this one. The fuses inside my stereo receivers are
fine, but the reciever is dead. How could a spike/surge bypass these?
The fuse in my VCR melted like it should, preserving the device.
I think we'd all like to see your design for fuses that blow when shorttwo words,
shitty design
I'm still pondering this one. The fuses inside my stereo receivers are
fine, but the reciever is dead. How could a spike/surge bypass these?
The fuse in my VCR melted like it should, preserving the device.
JJ
"Dave Moore" <novalves@CRUDspamdatasync.com> wrote in message
news:bt7tee$e6b$1@news.datasync.com...
two words,
shitty design
I think we'd all like to see your design for fuses that blow when short
duration surges occur...
On Sat, 3 Jan 2004 22:05:10 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet"
lcailloNOSPAM@devoynet.com> wrote:
"Dave Moore" <novalves@CRUDspamdatasync.com> wrote in message
news:bt7tee$e6b$1@news.datasync.com...
two words,
shitty design
I think we'd all like to see your design for fuses that blow when short
duration surges occur...
Isn't that called a crow-bar circuit? Or better input filtering to
absorb or block the spike?
-Chris
Check transformer primary for continuity. Many have internal fuses.
Ones that have pcb mounting often bring the fuse out to a couple of pins
Eg. ac-pin-fuse-pin-primary-pin-ac enabling the fuse to be shorted out.
Leaded ones need to have the outer insulation on the winding carefully
removed to find it. Always add an external primary fuse as needed.
I have to disagree.The original question was why his fuse allowed a surge to pass. The
answer
is that the fuse was not designed to stop surges, and possibly not in a
position to do so. The response of "shitty design" was silly and useless.
Lots of well designed equipment is damaged by surges all the time,
IMHO. if a piece of equipment was "well designed"over ac
lines, signal lines, and from grounds going high.
Nonsense, it's simply a matter of providing paths aroundThe solution to the problem of surge damage is complex and must be
attacked
on several fronts. The first is good grounding on all lines to any
connected equipment.
You mean thay aren't educated in the methodsSurge suppression in individual devices, groups of
devices, on the entire electrical distribution system and signal lines can
help.
It may very well be that the equipment has a "shitty design", but since
this
is pervasive the real problem is that people who buy, sell, install, and
use
the equipment are not educated about the causes and solutions.
Leonard Caillouet
chris@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:t0pgvvsqkitsb16ll4iik0af7bo47i65uh@4ax.com...
On Sat, 3 Jan 2004 22:05:10 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet"
lcailloNOSPAM@devoynet.com> wrote:
"Dave Moore" <novalves@CRUDspamdatasync.com> wrote in message
news:bt7tee$e6b$1@news.datasync.com...
two words,
shitty design
I think we'd all like to see your design for fuses that blow when short
duration surges occur...
Isn't that called a crow-bar circuit? Or better input filtering to
absorb or block the spike?
-Chris
"Me" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Jan 04 16:16:08)
--- on the heady topic of "How could a power spike bypass internal fuses in a stereo reciever?"
Me> From: Me <me@here.com
Me> I'm still pondering this one. The fuses inside my stereo receivers are
Me> fine, but the reciever is dead. How could a spike/surge bypass these?
Me> The fuse in my VCR melted like it should, preserving the device.
Me> JJ
JJ, how about perhaps because they were normal or slo-blo fuses and the
surge may have been shorter than the time they take to blow?
... Resistance Is Futile! (If < 1 ohm)
Wow, thanks guys. Didn't mean to start a riot... Actually, you guys
are very well-behaved compared to some groups. Kudos. I'm strictly a
"find the bad part and replace it" novice so thanks again.
Actually, a lot of times, disagreements tend to actually teach as longWow, thanks guys. Didn't mean to start a riot... Actually, you guys
are very well-behaved compared to some groups. Kudos. I'm strictly a
"find the bad part and replace it" novice so thanks again.
JJ
Hi,I'm still pondering this one. The fuses inside my stereo receivers are
fine, but the reciever is dead. How could a spike/surge bypass these?
The fuse in my VCR melted like it should, preserving the device.
JJ
I like to have a whole house surge protector mounted on the electrical
panel so that I get some protection as soon as the power comes in. It
also seems to be the best for extra protection on equiment that is
hard wired like ovens and cooktops.
I think I bought mine from Smarthome.com. The manufacturer is
Intermatic and it's called Panel Guard. An electrician can put it in
for you, and it connects via circuit breaker to the mains to cover
both phases. It has the capacity to absorb much more energy than the
little outlet strips. I still put computers on UPS systems. I'm
considering putting another one on a sub-panel in the garage to trap
my air compressor spikes before they leave the garage. I can't blame
all the spikes on the power company, I believe I make a few on
premises!
--Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building.
The protector does not absorb energy. IOW it 'absorbs'
energy just as a wire 'absorbs' energy. Protection is earth
ground. Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building. But hardwire earthing
of phone and AC electric wire means no utility service. So we
earth the wire only during a transient.
That is what a protector does. Connects wire to earth
ground only during the transient. 'Whole house' protectors
are effective due to a 'less than 10 foot' connection to
earth. Plug-in protectors don't even claim to provide such
protection. Notice all but no connection to earth ground. No
earth ground means no effective protection. So plug-in
protectors forget to mention earthing - so that you will
'assume' the protector absorbs transients. Its called lying
by telling half truths.
Surge protectors do not absorb transients - except where
myths are promoted. Surge protectors are effective only when
they make a temporary connection to earth ground. Earth
absorbs the energy which is why a protector is only as
effective as its earth ground.
Read numerical specifications for that plug-in UPS (if you
can find them). They quietly don't claim protection from the
transient that damages electronics. But then the missing
earth ground makes that obvious. A plug-in UPS is for data
protection from blackouts and brownouts; not for hardware
protection. It claims no protection from the typically
destructive transient. Read its specs. It does not claim
effective protection. Again obvious: no dedicated, 'less
than 10 foot' connection to earth ground. Protector is only
as effective as its earth ground - which a 'whole house'
protector provides and that plug-in UPS does not.
In the meantime, appliances (and computers) already contain
effective internal protection. Protection that assumes a
'whole house' protector is installed. Protection that could
be overwhelmed if transients are not earthed before entering a
building. Protection that is effective at the appliance is
already inside that appliance. Protection that is dependent
on a properly earthed 'whole house' protector.
Jim shedden wrote:
I like to have a whole house surge protector mounted on the electrical
panel so that I get some protection as soon as the power comes in. It
also seems to be the best for extra protection on equiment that is
hard wired like ovens and cooktops.
I think I bought mine from Smarthome.com. The manufacturer is
Intermatic and it's called Panel Guard. An electrician can put it in
for you, and it connects via circuit breaker to the mains to cover
both phases. It has the capacity to absorb much more energy than the
little outlet strips. I still put computers on UPS systems. I'm
considering putting another one on a sub-panel in the garage to trap
my air compressor spikes before they leave the garage. I can't blame
all the spikes on the power company, I believe I make a few on
premises!
In theory, perhaps. In practice - nonsense. Cable TV service entrances are
grounded, yet lightning still comes in on the ground braid all the time.
Mark Z.
Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building.
--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.
"w_tom" <w_tom1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FFA4F3D.24E19628@hotmail.com...
The protector does not absorb energy. IOW it 'absorbs'
energy just as a wire 'absorbs' energy. Protection is earth
ground. Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building. But hardwire earthing
of phone and AC electric wire means no utility service. So we
earth the wire only during a transient.
That is what a protector does. Connects wire to earth
ground only during the transient. 'Whole house' protectors
are effective due to a 'less than 10 foot' connection to
earth. Plug-in protectors don't even claim to provide such
protection. Notice all but no connection to earth ground. No
earth ground means no effective protection. So plug-in
protectors forget to mention earthing - so that you will
'assume' the protector absorbs transients. Its called lying
by telling half truths.
Surge protectors do not absorb transients - except where
myths are promoted. Surge protectors are effective only when
they make a temporary connection to earth ground. Earth
absorbs the energy which is why a protector is only as
effective as its earth ground.
Read numerical specifications for that plug-in UPS (if you
can find them). They quietly don't claim protection from the
transient that damages electronics. But then the missing
earth ground makes that obvious. A plug-in UPS is for data
protection from blackouts and brownouts; not for hardware
protection. It claims no protection from the typically
destructive transient. Read its specs. It does not claim
effective protection. Again obvious: no dedicated, 'less
than 10 foot' connection to earth ground. Protector is only
as effective as its earth ground - which a 'whole house'
protector provides and that plug-in UPS does not.
In the meantime, appliances (and computers) already contain
effective internal protection. Protection that assumes a
'whole house' protector is installed. Protection that could
be overwhelmed if transients are not earthed before entering a
building. Protection that is effective at the appliance is
already inside that appliance. Protection that is dependent
on a properly earthed 'whole house' protector.
Jim shedden wrote:
I like to have a whole house surge protector mounted on the electrical
panel so that I get some protection as soon as the power comes in. It
also seems to be the best for extra protection on equiment that is
hard wired like ovens and cooktops.
I think I bought mine from Smarthome.com. The manufacturer is
Intermatic and it's called Panel Guard. An electrician can put it in
for you, and it connects via circuit breaker to the mains to cover
both phases. It has the capacity to absorb much more energy than the
little outlet strips. I still put computers on UPS systems. I'm
considering putting another one on a sub-panel in the garage to trap
my air compressor spikes before they leave the garage. I can't blame
all the spikes on the power company, I believe I make a few on
premises!
I probably should have used the word dissipate instead of absorb in myThe protector does not absorb energy. IOW it 'absorbs'
energy just as a wire 'absorbs' energy.
MDZ> --Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building.
.... A fail-safe circuit will destroy others.The protector does not absorb energy. IOW it 'absorbs'
energy just as a wire 'absorbs' energy. Protection is earth
ground. Any wire connected directly to earth ground cannot
carry a transient into the building. But hardwire earthing
of phone and AC electric wire means no utility service. So we
earth the wire only during a transient.
That is what a protector does. Connects wire to earth
ground only during the transient. 'Whole house' protectors
are effective due to a 'less than 10 foot' connection to
earth. Plug-in protectors don't even claim to provide such
protection.