A
AK
Guest
Is 26 gauge hookup wire ok for my circuit board ?
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
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R
Ralph Mowery
Guest
In article <c169408e-7fd7-4ac0-8d53-4b5d5799daac@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
Depends on the current. Circuit boards are sometimes rated by the
ammount of current they can carry. Usually in ounces of copper, then
you figure out how wide to make the traces to carry the current you
want.
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
Is 26 gauge hookup wire ok for my circuit board ?
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
Depends on the current. Circuit boards are sometimes rated by the
ammount of current they can carry. Usually in ounces of copper, then
you figure out how wide to make the traces to carry the current you
want.
A
AK
Guest
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:46:37 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
I am using these.
[img:116f1e3c8f]http://i63.tinypic.com/10yl09f.png[/img:116f1e3c8f]
In article <c169408e-7fd7-4ac0-8d53-4b5d5799daac@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
Is 26 gauge hookup wire ok for my circuit board ?
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
Depends on the current. Circuit boards are sometimes rated by the
ammount of current they can carry. Usually in ounces of copper, then
you figure out how wide to make the traces to carry the current you
want.
I am using these.
[img:116f1e3c8f]http://i63.tinypic.com/10yl09f.png[/img:116f1e3c8f]
S
S Deyoreo
Guest
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
should be fine. I like 22AWG for the breadboards, 26 doesn't grab that good, but ok if you're soldering it.
Is 26 gauge hookup wire ok for my circuit board ?
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
should be fine. I like 22AWG for the breadboards, 26 doesn't grab that good, but ok if you're soldering it.
J
jfeng@my-deja.com
Guest
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 6:12:50 PM UTC-7, S Deyoreo wrote:
For low-power situations, I like the 30AWG that is used for wire-wrapping. With standard Kynar insulation, you need to solder carefully to avoid melting the coating. I like wire with Teflon insulation even better, but it is hard to find and you need a special stripping tool.
... I like 22AWG for the breadboards, 26 doesn't grab that good, but ok if
you're soldering it.
For low-power situations, I like the 30AWG that is used for wire-wrapping. With standard Kynar insulation, you need to solder carefully to avoid melting the coating. I like wire with Teflon insulation even better, but it is hard to find and you need a special stripping tool.
R
Ralph Mowery
Guest
In article <20258055-e7c5-4ecb-af47-0078afeda4d7@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
Number 26 wire will probably handle anything the traces will.
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
I am using these.
[img:8c428fe71b]http://i63.tinypic.com/10yl09f.png[/img:8c428fe71b]
Number 26 wire will probably handle anything the traces will.
D
default
Guest
On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 13:37:38 -0700 (PDT), AK <scientist77017@gmail.com>
wrote:
For the sort of thing you are doing it is fine.
I use some 26 AWG multicolored ribbon cable when I have a lot of
interconnections. Rip off the colors I need from the ribbon, rather
than stock rolls of different hookup wire. Old computer cables can
work well too since they are often color coded.
wrote:
Is 26 gauge hookup wire ok for my circuit board ?
I am using PCB boards. I think the holes are the standard width apart.
For the sort of thing you are doing it is fine.
I use some 26 AWG multicolored ribbon cable when I have a lot of
interconnections. Rip off the colors I need from the ribbon, rather
than stock rolls of different hookup wire. Old computer cables can
work well too since they are often color coded.
R
Rheilly Phoull
Guest
On 7/06/2019 9:38 am, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 6:12:50 PM UTC-7, S Deyoreo wrote:
... I like 22AWG for the breadboards, 26 doesn't grab that good, but ok if
you're soldering it.
For low-power situations, I like the 30AWG that is used for wire-wrapping. With standard Kynar insulation, you need to solder carefully to avoid melting the coating. I like wire with Teflon insulation even better, but it is hard to find and you need a special stripping tool.
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
J
jfeng@my-deja.com
Guest
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 5:02:19 AM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
It is a matter of skill and craftsmanship. You have to learn to strip the insulation without nicking the wire.
P
Phil Hobbs
Guest
On 6/7/19 8:02 AM, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
For dead bug I use either the component leads littering the bench or #26
solid tinned bare copper.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
On 7/06/2019 9:38 am, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 6:12:50 PM UTC-7, S Deyoreo wrote:
... I like 22AWG for the breadboards, 26 doesn't grab that good, but
ok if
you're soldering it.
For low-power situations, I like the 30AWG that is used for
wire-wrapping. With standard Kynar insulation, you need to solder
carefully to avoid melting the coating. I like wire with Teflon
insulation even better, but it is hard to find and you need a special
stripping tool.
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
For dead bug I use either the component leads littering the bench or #26
solid tinned bare copper.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
R
Rheilly Phoull
Guest
On 7/06/2019 10:50 pm, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
to the stiffness of the insulation.
That was using the fancy stripper and checking for nicks, I put it downOn Friday, June 7, 2019 at 5:02:19 AM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
It is a matter of skill and craftsmanship. You have to learn to strip the insulation without nicking the wire.
to the stiffness of the insulation.
J
jfeng@my-deja.com
Guest
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 8:42:52 PM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
My stripper looks like a pair of needle-nose pliers with a machined groove near the tip. I think they cost about $50. It works really well on Kynar, Teflon, and the PVC used in the rainbow-colored IDC flat able. It was made to strip the end for wire-wrapping, and any nick would have made the wire too fragile to wrap.
I also prefer 2A tweezers to do the point-to-point manipulation, and 63-37 solder.
On 7/06/2019 10:50 pm, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 5:02:19 AM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint.
It is a matter of skill and craftsmanship. You have to learn to strip the
insulation without nicking the wire.
That was using the fancy stripper and checking for nicks, I put it down
to the stiffness of the insulation.
My stripper looks like a pair of needle-nose pliers with a machined groove near the tip. I think they cost about $50. It works really well on Kynar, Teflon, and the PVC used in the rainbow-colored IDC flat able. It was made to strip the end for wire-wrapping, and any nick would have made the wire too fragile to wrap.
I also prefer 2A tweezers to do the point-to-point manipulation, and 63-37 solder.
A
AK
Guest
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 11:33:15 PM UTC-5, jf...@my-deja.com wrote:
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 8:42:52 PM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
On 7/06/2019 10:50 pm, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 5:02:19 AM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Yeah good for soldering but I found it bad for breaking at the joint..
It is a matter of skill and craftsmanship. You have to learn to strip the
insulation without nicking the wire.
That was using the fancy stripper and checking for nicks, I put it down
to the stiffness of the insulation.
My stripper looks like a pair of needle-nose pliers with a machined groove near the tip. I think they cost about $50. It works really well on Kynar, Teflon, and the PVC used in the rainbow-colored IDC flat able. It was made to strip the end for wire-wrapping, and any nick would have made the wire too fragile to wrap.
I also prefer 2A tweezers to do the point-to-point manipulation, and 63-37 solder.
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
R
Rheilly Phoull
Guest
On 8/06/2019 12:51 pm, AK wrote:
Bit of a personal thing, have a go with an adjustable one like
<https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-Steel-Precision-Copper-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Plier-Professional-Tool/122202751993?hash=item1c73da03f9:g:Zl8AAOSwJ-5aRlnk&frcectupt=true>
There are many varieties of this type and check out the "parrot beak"
type but for hookup wire they can be too "strong" but that type has the
advantage of automatically adjusting to wire size and the "grip" on the
cable can be adjusted as well, I have found that type suited for hookup
wire after a bit of searching.
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
Bit of a personal thing, have a go with an adjustable one like
<https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-Steel-Precision-Copper-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Plier-Professional-Tool/122202751993?hash=item1c73da03f9:g:Zl8AAOSwJ-5aRlnk&frcectupt=true>
There are many varieties of this type and check out the "parrot beak"
type but for hookup wire they can be too "strong" but that type has the
advantage of automatically adjusting to wire size and the "grip" on the
cable can be adjusted as well, I have found that type suited for hookup
wire after a bit of searching.
R
Rodney Pont
Guest
On Sat, 8 Jun 2019 16:35:53 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
I've got one of these and find them to be the best and easiest to use
of any I've had in the last 40 odd years. My problem was always with
finding something to strip the small wires I dealt with. No problem
with house or vehicle wiring but hookup wire was always troublesome
until I got a pair like these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352669149660
--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
Bit of a personal thing, have a go with an adjustable one like
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-Steel-Precision-Copper-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Plier-Professional-Tool/122202751993?hash=item1c73da03f9:g:Zl8AAOSwJ-5aRlnk&frcectupt=true
I've got one of these and find them to be the best and easiest to use
of any I've had in the last 40 odd years. My problem was always with
finding something to strip the small wires I dealt with. No problem
with house or vehicle wiring but hookup wire was always troublesome
until I got a pair like these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352669149660
--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com
B
Bob Engelhardt
Guest
On 6/8/2019 12:51 AM, AK wrote:
I've been stripping wire (on an infrequent basis) for 60 years. I still
have to be very careful about nicking it.
For a noob*, a fail-safe way to do circuit-board lengths, is to use bare
wire and slip on spaghetti tubing for insulation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJE1GG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://tinyurl.com/y4hyw4b4
Insulation often isn't even needed for short runs.
Bare wire & tubing is also convenient for daisy-chain runs where a
single wire can be used for multiple connections. Eliminating the
cut-and-strip for each connection.
Bob
* - I no longer consider myself a noob, but I still use the bare wire
and tubing
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
I've been stripping wire (on an infrequent basis) for 60 years. I still
have to be very careful about nicking it.
For a noob*, a fail-safe way to do circuit-board lengths, is to use bare
wire and slip on spaghetti tubing for insulation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJE1GG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://tinyurl.com/y4hyw4b4
Insulation often isn't even needed for short runs.
Bare wire & tubing is also convenient for daisy-chain runs where a
single wire can be used for multiple connections. Eliminating the
cut-and-strip for each connection.
Bob
* - I no longer consider myself a noob, but I still use the bare wire
and tubing
J
jfeng@my-deja.com
Guest
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 9:51:46 PM UTC-7, AK wrote:
This looks like the one I like, and the description says it has a 30 mil stripper. They want $35, so about $40 with tax and tip.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-5-8-in-Long-Nose-Telephone-Pliers-Type-L1-71980/100647683
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts
into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
This looks like the one I like, and the description says it has a 30 mil stripper. They want $35, so about $40 with tax and tip.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-5-8-in-Long-Nose-Telephone-Pliers-Type-L1-71980/100647683
S
Sjouke Burry
Guest
On 08.06.19 19:42, jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 9:51:46 PM UTC-7, AK wrote:
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts
into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
This looks like the one I like, and the description says it has a 30 mil stripper. They want $35, so about $40 with tax and tip.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-5-8-in-Long-Nose-Telephone-Pliers-Type-L1-71980/100647683
Access denied for this server..........
J
jfeng@my-deja.com
Guest
On Saturday, June 8, 2019 at 11:48:02 AM UTC-7, Sjouke Burry wrote:
On 08.06.19 19:42, jfen....com wrote:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-5-8-in-Long-Nose-Telephone-Pliers-Type-L1-71980/100647683
Access denied for this server..........
Home Depot is big box store similar to Bricomart. The pliers are made by Klein Tools and the part number is L1-71980 (I am guessing that 100647683 is the Home Depot SKU). If you Google "klein telephone pliers", it seems cheaper from Amazon, but a couple negative reviews indicate that they are shipping a cheap knock-off.
P
Phil Hobbs
Guest
On 6/8/19 8:08 AM, Rodney Pont wrote:
Sharp flush cutters and a light touch.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
On Sat, 8 Jun 2019 16:35:53 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Speaking of strippers. Mine is made by commercial electric and it often cuts into the copper and the the crimper is useless.
What do you recommend?
Andy
Bit of a personal thing, have a go with an adjustable one like
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-Steel-Precision-Copper-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Plier-Professional-Tool/122202751993?hash=item1c73da03f9:g:Zl8AAOSwJ-5aRlnk&frcectupt=true
I've got one of these and find them to be the best and easiest to use
of any I've had in the last 40 odd years. My problem was always with
finding something to strip the small wires I dealt with. No problem
with house or vehicle wiring but hookup wire was always troublesome
until I got a pair like these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352669149660
Sharp flush cutters and a light touch.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com