Guest
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
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Guest
On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 12:48:01 PM UTC-4, avag...@gmail.com wrote:
I use a Klein tools 400A AC/DC True RMS Clamp Meter model CL2000. Just clamp around the battery/alternator cable to see the charging/discharging amps.. The resolution is good for the <20A range I usually use it for. The model seems to be out of production but their model cl800 appears to be a replacement ($105 on amazon). There are some clamp-on meters on ebay but watch out that they do measure dc amps in clamp-on mode.
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
I use a Klein tools 400A AC/DC True RMS Clamp Meter model CL2000. Just clamp around the battery/alternator cable to see the charging/discharging amps.. The resolution is good for the <20A range I usually use it for. The model seems to be out of production but their model cl800 appears to be a replacement ($105 on amazon). There are some clamp-on meters on ebay but watch out that they do measure dc amps in clamp-on mode.
Guest
On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 12:48:01 PM UTC-4, avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Do you have the ammeter? If you have the ammeter in hand, you can get the hookup instructions on line. If the ammeter is too low a current, you can add a shunt. Check DigiKey.
In any case, I'd rather not have an ammeter handle the full current mounted in the dashboard if that's your plan.
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
Do you have the ammeter? If you have the ammeter in hand, you can get the hookup instructions on line. If the ammeter is too low a current, you can add a shunt. Check DigiKey.
In any case, I'd rather not have an ammeter handle the full current mounted in the dashboard if that's your plan.
B
Bennett
Guest
On 4/21/2017 1:14 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=142207111925&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps
and hook it up in series with the alternator, i.e., in between the
alternator and the heavy wire which presently comes from the alternator.
If the needle goes in the wrong direction, just reverse the wiring.
Or just buy something like this:On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 12:48:01 PM UTC-4, avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
Do you have the ammeter? If you have the ammeter in hand, you can get the hookup instructions on line. If the ammeter is too low a current, you can add a shunt. Check DigiKey.
In any case, I'd rather not have an ammeter handle the full current mounted in the dashboard if that's your plan.
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=142207111925&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps
and hook it up in series with the alternator, i.e., in between the
alternator and the heavy wire which presently comes from the alternator.
If the needle goes in the wrong direction, just reverse the wiring.
Guest
Not full. A sampling device connected to an auto amp gauge. For example, the gauge may read 10 amps on a full sweep. Is this too much for outside the dash ? How is this done if it is done on a Kenworth ?
The alt is 200 amps above 65 mph.
There are TSD factors using stereo 40 amp fuse, lights @ 30 amps, vehicle OP amps @ 75 ... where quantifying the load vs miles to go vs a positive battery charge is useful. Better than. 'geee whiz the lights are yellowing' .... as too late n that is 3 hours with no aux load to reach white light again?
The alt is 200 amps above 65 mph.
There are TSD factors using stereo 40 amp fuse, lights @ 30 amps, vehicle OP amps @ 75 ... where quantifying the load vs miles to go vs a positive battery charge is useful. Better than. 'geee whiz the lights are yellowing' .... as too late n that is 3 hours with no aux load to reach white light again?
P
Phil Allison
Guest
avag...@gmail.com wrote:
** Do you still have other people wipe you arse for you ?
Wot a lazy fucking shit.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
** Do you still have other people wipe you arse for you ?
Wot a lazy fucking shit.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
Guest
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
PHOOOOM !
why the fuse box connection ?
all ...probably all...today's aux system are separate from the factory computer except for the trailer wiring harness.
The Ford truck computer system is fairly tolerant of low power experiment. Blowing fuses not massive $$$$. EG skip the ignition measure n assume 75 to 100
What I would need with your link is a reduction of 100 amps...the alleged supply over operation Ford amps with 'stock' lights on ... to 1 amp at the gauge. A quality one amp gauge linear to the 100 amps. I assume linearity.
Inserting a resistor ? is this OK or is there a better way of sampling 100 to 1 amp ?
avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
** Do you still have other people wipe you arse for you ?
Wot a lazy fucking shit.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
PHOOOOM !
why the fuse box connection ?
all ...probably all...today's aux system are separate from the factory computer except for the trailer wiring harness.
The Ford truck computer system is fairly tolerant of low power experiment. Blowing fuses not massive $$$$. EG skip the ignition measure n assume 75 to 100
What I would need with your link is a reduction of 100 amps...the alleged supply over operation Ford amps with 'stock' lights on ... to 1 amp at the gauge. A quality one amp gauge linear to the 100 amps. I assume linearity.
Inserting a resistor ? is this OK or is there a better way of sampling 100 to 1 amp ?
A
amdx
Guest
On 4/21/2017 11:47 AM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
I'll try this again, I have a 6 year old computer running windows 7. I
have not any problems in 6 years with it, while typing my screen went
white! Only a reboot brought it back.
This unit is what you need.
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/8019/DC_Analog_Ammeter_-_0_to_200A_with_Shunt
The instructions are here on the last page, it is wired to measure
battery current, you need to wire it to measure alternator current.
> http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9322.pdf
If you want to go cheap.
Here's a shunt, $16.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/snt-200/200-amp-shunt-50mv-200-amps/1.html
And here's a meter to go with it. $12.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/pmd-200a/200-amp-dc-panel-meter/1.html
Mikek
---
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Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
I'll try this again, I have a 6 year old computer running windows 7. I
have not any problems in 6 years with it, while typing my screen went
white! Only a reboot brought it back.
This unit is what you need.
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/8019/DC_Analog_Ammeter_-_0_to_200A_with_Shunt
The instructions are here on the last page, it is wired to measure
battery current, you need to wire it to measure alternator current.
> http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9322.pdf
If you want to go cheap.
Here's a shunt, $16.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/snt-200/200-amp-shunt-50mv-200-amps/1.html
And here's a meter to go with it. $12.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/pmd-200a/200-amp-dc-panel-meter/1.html
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Guest
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, The Evil Phil Allison wrote:
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, The Benevolent Phil Allison wrote:
avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
** Do you still have other people wipe you arse for you ?
Wot a lazy fucking shit.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, The Benevolent Phil Allison wrote:
avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
** Let me provide a link for you to follow to help you understand the installation of an ammeter:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg
Guest
I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the battery ?
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the battery ?
A
amdx
Guest
On 4/23/2017 12:44 PM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
The shunt is just a low ohm resistor.
The ones I posted develop 50mV at 200amps.
Doing the math 0.05V / 200 amps = 0.00025 ohms.
So a very low ohm resistor.
Say you had 100 amps flowing thru the shunt.
What would be the voltage across it?
100amps x 0.00025 ohms = 0.025 Volts or 25 millivolts.
The meter is a 50 millivolt meter. If you connect the meter across the
shunt, since the shunt has 25mV from end to end the meter will read 1/2
scale or 100 amps as the scale is marked.
The 0.00025 ohm resistor has no effect on the current flow. 15 inches
of your large gauge wire #2, is equal to the shunt resistance.
The fuses you see are important because if one of your wires going to
the meter shorts, it will burn up the small gauge wires.
Are we there yet?
The 50 mV meter simple measures the voltage drop across the shunt.
The voltage drop across the shunt varies depending on the current thru
the shunt.
Mikek
---
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I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the battery ?
The shunt is just a low ohm resistor.
The ones I posted develop 50mV at 200amps.
Doing the math 0.05V / 200 amps = 0.00025 ohms.
So a very low ohm resistor.
Say you had 100 amps flowing thru the shunt.
What would be the voltage across it?
100amps x 0.00025 ohms = 0.025 Volts or 25 millivolts.
The meter is a 50 millivolt meter. If you connect the meter across the
shunt, since the shunt has 25mV from end to end the meter will read 1/2
scale or 100 amps as the scale is marked.
The 0.00025 ohm resistor has no effect on the current flow. 15 inches
of your large gauge wire #2, is equal to the shunt resistance.
The fuses you see are important because if one of your wires going to
the meter shorts, it will burn up the small gauge wires.
Are we there yet?
The 50 mV meter simple measures the voltage drop across the shunt.
The voltage drop across the shunt varies depending on the current thru
the shunt.
Mikek
---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus
S
Sjouke Burry
Guest
On 23.04.17 19:44, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
Just read the voltage across the the one already there.
You cannot disturb anything by adding your voltage meter to it.
why should you add a second resistor?I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the battery ?
Just read the voltage across the the one already there.
You cannot disturb anything by adding your voltage meter to it.
A
amdx
Guest
On 4/23/2017 5:34 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
What resistor is already there?
What are you looking at?
Mikek
---
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On 23.04.17 19:44, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the
internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the
battery ?
why should you add a second resistor?
Just read the voltage across the the one already there.
You cannot disturb anything by adding your voltage meter to it.
What resistor is already there?
What are you looking at?
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
M
mike
Guest
On 4/21/2017 2:56 PM, Bennett wrote:
Note: need a 75mV shunt(Here Not Included) so that you can successfully
use this Analog Ammeter.
Might want to read the whole listing, to wit:On 4/21/2017 1:14 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 12:48:01 PM UTC-4, avag...@gmail.com wrote:
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a
200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial
units ?
Do you have the ammeter? If you have the ammeter in hand, you can get
the hookup instructions on line. If the ammeter is too low a current,
you can add a shunt. Check DigiKey.
In any case, I'd rather not have an ammeter handle the full current
mounted in the dashboard if that's your plan.
Or just buy something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=142207111925&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps
and hook it up in series with the alternator, i.e., in between the
alternator and the heavy wire which presently comes from the alternator.
If the needle goes in the wrong direction, just reverse the wiring.
Note: need a 75mV shunt(Here Not Included) so that you can successfully
use this Analog Ammeter.
M
mike
Guest
On 4/23/2017 10:44 AM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
Problem is that you can't do it.
The external 100A shunt resistor is a 4-terminal Kelvin connection.
You'd have to jump thru some hoops to get the parallel resistance
calibrated, and then it would be relatively unstable over time.
Get a 200A 4-terminal shunt resistor and a meter that goes with it.
I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the battery ?
Problem is that you can't do it.
The external 100A shunt resistor is a 4-terminal Kelvin connection.
You'd have to jump thru some hoops to get the parallel resistance
calibrated, and then it would be relatively unstable over time.
Get a 200A 4-terminal shunt resistor and a meter that goes with it.
M
mike
Guest
On 4/21/2017 5:25 PM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
You will be adding at least two additional failure points in the system.
Why is the alternator current important?
If the battery is charging, you're good to go.
The thing you care about is the battery voltage.
If the alternator output is sufficient, you will be able to see
it on a voltmeter.
That can be done trivially...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Panel-Meter-Volt-Voltmeter-Monitor-DT/252487060054?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dc1ba847ee8d94551a0b7a892e29b5c34%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
Not clear what you're trying to accomplish.Not full. A sampling device connected to an auto amp gauge. For example, the gauge may read 10 amps on a full sweep. Is this too much for outside the dash ? How is this done if it is done on a Kenworth ?
The alt is 200 amps above 65 mph.
There are TSD factors using stereo 40 amp fuse, lights @ 30 amps, vehicle OP amps @ 75 ... where quantifying the load vs miles to go vs a positive battery charge is useful. Better than. 'geee whiz the lights are yellowing' ... as too late n that is 3 hours with no aux load to reach white light again?
You will be adding at least two additional failure points in the system.
Why is the alternator current important?
If the battery is charging, you're good to go.
The thing you care about is the battery voltage.
If the alternator output is sufficient, you will be able to see
it on a voltmeter.
That can be done trivially...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Panel-Meter-Volt-Voltmeter-Monitor-DT/252487060054?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dc1ba847ee8d94551a0b7a892e29b5c34%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
Guest
On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 7:47:35 PM UTC-4, mike wrote:
In the old days, cars had ammeters. The problem is that it was difficult to discern if the needle was slightly left or right of center. Today cars have voltmeters which tells more in my opinion.
In a 12V system, anything more than 12.6 indicates a positive charge condition. I had a condition recently where my alternator's internal regulator failed and it was pumping 17V into the car. The ammeter would not have shown this quite as clearly.
On 4/21/2017 5:25 PM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
Not full. A sampling device connected to an auto amp gauge. For example, the gauge may read 10 amps on a full sweep. Is this too much for outside the dash ? How is this done if it is done on a Kenworth ?
The alt is 200 amps above 65 mph.
There are TSD factors using stereo 40 amp fuse, lights @ 30 amps, vehicle OP amps @ 75 ... where quantifying the load vs miles to go vs a positive battery charge is useful. Better than. 'geee whiz the lights are yellowing' ... as too late n that is 3 hours with no aux load to reach white light again?
Not clear what you're trying to accomplish.
You will be adding at least two additional failure points in the system.
Why is the alternator current important?
If the battery is charging, you're good to go.
The thing you care about is the battery voltage.
If the alternator output is sufficient, you will be able to see
it on a voltmeter.
That can be done trivially...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Digital-Panel-Meter-Volt-Voltmeter-Monitor-DT/252487060054?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dc1ba847ee8d94551a0b7a892e29b5c34%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
In the old days, cars had ammeters. The problem is that it was difficult to discern if the needle was slightly left or right of center. Today cars have voltmeters which tells more in my opinion.
In a 12V system, anything more than 12.6 indicates a positive charge condition. I had a condition recently where my alternator's internal regulator failed and it was pumping 17V into the car. The ammeter would not have shown this quite as clearly.
S
Sjouke Burry
Guest
On 24.04.17 0:56, amdx wrote:
On 4/23/2017 5:34 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
On 23.04.17 19:44, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the
internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the
battery ?
why should you add a second resistor?
Just read the voltage across the the one already there.
You cannot disturb anything by adding your voltage meter to it.
What resistor is already there?
What are you looking at?
Mikek
---
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The internal shunt.
A
amdx
Guest
On 4/24/2017 7:13 AM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
not the two options I posted.
Mikek
---
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OK, you're looking at this,On 24.04.17 0:56, amdx wrote:
On 4/23/2017 5:34 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
On 23.04.17 19:44, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
I have zero knowledge of shunts. Maybe this evening.
I see the recommendation has company:
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
rated at 100 amp shunt. If I add an external 100 amp shunt to the
internal shunt what does the meter read ?
what is a shunt doing to the flow of electricity back to charging the
battery ?
why should you add a second resistor?
Just read the voltage across the the one already there.
You cannot disturb anything by adding your voltage meter to it.
What resistor is already there?
What are you looking at?
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
The internal shunt.
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1732-oled-panel-dc-ammeter
not the two options I posted.
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
A
amdx
Guest
On 4/21/2017 11:47 AM, avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:
Here's what you need, It is a shunt that you put in series with the
output of your alternator. You then can run small diameter wires to the
meter in the dash. They carry very little current.
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/8019
$113.00
This page has a schematic, it is wired to measure battery current, you
need to put the shunt were it will measure alternator current.
See the last page.
> http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9322.pdf
Here is a shunt for $16.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/snt-200/200-amp-shunt-50mv-200-amps/1.html
Here's the meter that will work with it.
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto
alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?
Here's what you need, It is a shunt that you put in series with the
output of your alternator. You then can run small diameter wires to the
meter in the dash. They carry very little current.
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/8019
$113.00
This page has a schematic, it is wired to measure battery current, you
need to put the shunt were it will measure alternator current.
See the last page.
> http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9322.pdf
Here is a shunt for $16.00
> http://www.allelectronics.com/item/snt-200/200-amp-shunt-50mv-200-amps/1.html
Here's the meter that will work with it.
http://www.allelectronics.com/item/pmd-200a/200-amp-dc-panel-meter/1.html
Mikek
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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