High melting point solder

S

Sylvia Else

Guest
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.
 
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/

to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
 
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/


to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?
 
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/



to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.
 
On 22/01/2014 1:50 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/


to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.

**Stay well away from solder. Stick to brazing, welding or mechanical
attachment only. At those sorts of temperatures, solder becomes
extremely unreliable.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
 
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/




to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.

Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!
 
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/





to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.
 
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/






to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.

Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old appliance.



Tubing like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MICRO-BRASS-TUBE-ASSTD-SLIDE-FIT-PACK-0-3-0-5-0-7-0-9mm-TUBES-SFT2-/310841045453?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item485f91f1cd
 
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/







to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old appliance.



Tubing like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MICRO-BRASS-TUBE-ASSTD-SLIDE-FIT-PACK-0-3-0-5-0-7-0-9mm-TUBES-SFT2-/310841045453?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item485f91f1cd

The 0.3mm might do, but it's not so cheap.

My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

I'll try implementing a clamp using a pair of nuts, a bolt and some washers.

Sylvia.
 
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/




to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.

Find the smallest lug or tube you can,if lug cut the lug in half and
just use the tube bit, find a bit of wire tail long enough to get where
you want to go and of sufficient size such that it and the sensor wire
together fill the the tube and squish it,(new term for crimp)
 
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/







to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.



--
For a good time: install ntp

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/







to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.

Thanks for the thoughts. I think I'll skip the brazing idea, since I
don't in fact own any of that stuff. Have to try the coil idea with some
similar gauge copper wire first.

Sylvia.
 
On 22/01/2014 8:01 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a
gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/








to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite
difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how
thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't
have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old
appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead
from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.




Thanks for the thoughts. I think I'll skip the brazing idea, since I
don't in fact own any of that stuff. Have to try the coil idea with some
similar gauge copper wire first.

Sylvia.

cut the sleeve out of a small bootlace ferrule + crimp
 
On 22/01/14 15:46, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a
gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/








to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite
difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have
one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old
appliance.



Tubing like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MICRO-BRASS-TUBE-ASSTD-SLIDE-FIT-PACK-0-3-0-5-0-7-0-9mm-TUBES-SFT2-/310841045453?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item485f91f1cd





The 0.3mm might do, but it's not so cheap.

My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

I'll try implementing a clamp using a pair of nuts, a bolt and some
washers.

Sylvia.
You could get some copper tube from an old thermostat capillary, that's
pretty fine.
 
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/







to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.

I used the coil technique, and it worked. Thanks for that.

For the record, I ran this cheap Sunbeam benchtop oven until the sensor
showed 240degrees, and then turned the power off. The temperature
continued to rise, peaking at 257 degrees.

Even without any monitoring, I was able to get a board to reflow (double
sided at that), and work, though whether it would be reliable in the
long term is another question.

Sylvia.
 
On 2014-01-23, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:

I used the coil technique, and it worked. Thanks for that.

I saw an instructible today where they used a 1000uF capacitor with
35V charge to spot weld two fine wires together

For the record, I ran this cheap Sunbeam benchtop oven until the sensor
showed 240degrees, and then turned the power off. The temperature
continued to rise, peaking at 257 degrees.

neat!

--
For a good time: install ntp

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
On 23/01/2014 1:31 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a
gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/








to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite
difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how
thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't
have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old
appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead
from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.




I used the coil technique, and it worked. Thanks for that.

For the record, I ran this cheap Sunbeam benchtop oven until the sensor
showed 240degrees, and then turned the power off. The temperature
continued to rise, peaking at 257 degrees.

Even without any monitoring, I was able to get a board to reflow (double
sided at that), and work, though whether it would be reliable in the
long term is another question.

Sylvia.

However, lest anyone else rushes out and tries this, I should say that I
now think that the porcelain terminal block approach is not the way to
go, because the block has so much thermal inertia, and the sensor is
very close to it. This is likely the source of the overshoot I mentioned.

It's particularly noticeable during cooling. When sensor still shows
over 100C, the aluminium tray is cool enough to touch. At that point the
terminal block isn't despite having a much lower thermal conductivity,
which would make it feel cooler.

Sylvia.
 
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 23/01/2014 1:31 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a
gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/









to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite
difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how
thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't
have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old
appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the
device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal
block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead
from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.




I used the coil technique, and it worked. Thanks for that.

For the record, I ran this cheap Sunbeam benchtop oven until the sensor
showed 240degrees, and then turned the power off. The temperature
continued to rise, peaking at 257 degrees.

Even without any monitoring, I was able to get a board to reflow (double
sided at that), and work, though whether it would be reliable in the
long term is another question.

Sylvia.

However, lest anyone else rushes out and tries this, I should say that I
now think that the porcelain terminal block approach is not the way to
go, because the block has so much thermal inertia, and the sensor is
very close to it. This is likely the source of the overshoot I mentioned.

It's particularly noticeable during cooling. When sensor still shows
over 100C, the aluminium tray is cool enough to touch. At that point the
terminal block isn't despite having a much lower thermal conductivity,
which would make it feel cooler.

Sylvia.
My way would have worked.
For a temporary solution you could have used fishing crimp sleeves which
are small but may be aluminium
You can get stainless fishing crimp sleeves which could be permanent.
You can even get crimpers made for fishing crimp sleeves.
 
On 23/01/2014 23:12, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 23/01/2014 1:31 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 10:04 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2014-01-22, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
On 22/01/2014 5:41 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:18 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 4:42 PM, Kennedy wrote:
On 22/01/2014 11:52 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 2:36 PM, F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
On 22/01/2014 7:18 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 21/01/2014 12:47 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
I need something like this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0556503/

But my total lifetime requirement is probably a fraction of a
gram.

Anyone know of a supplier of smaller quantities?

Sylvia.

**What is the application?


Attaching one of these:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/platinum-resistance-temperature-sensors/6117801/









to monitor the temperature inside a DIY reflow oven.

I was originally going to use a porcelain terminal block, but the
leads
are so thin, and also not very long, so it's proving quite
difficult.

Sylvia.
Why not crimp?

Presupposes I can find a suitable lug, and I'm not even sure how
thick
the leads are - I'd need a micrometer to measure, and I don't
have one.

Sylvia.


Just get a small piece of brass tube from any hobby shop & make your
own. Only a couple of dollars.


Easy peasy!

Looks like I'd need tubing with an inner diameter of about 0.2 mm.

Sylvia.


Why wouldn't you use some scrap teflon sheathed multi-strand wire or
similar to connect to the sensor? That would be a lot easier than
running 0.2mm single strand out of the oven.

Maybe scab up some fiberglass insulation sleeving out of an old
appliance.



My problem is not the wiring from the sensor, but connecting the sensor
the wiring. Ordinary solder will clearly melt while the oven is in use.
The high temperature stuff Trevor says won't be reliable, and the
device
leads laugh at the gap left by the screw terminals in the porcelain
terminal block.

The best way is spot welding, take it to battery-pack rebuilder.


You could try brazing the leads, $10 pencil torch, $5 butane
refill, $10 brazing rod, $15 borax flux, you may own some of that
already.


another option wind a coil of 24 AWG bare copper (ex CAT5 cable) on
a 0.5mm-ish former (eg: the lead of a 1n914 diode, or a tailor's pin)

pass the RTD lead through that coil the put both into the terminal
block,
the copper will centre the lead, fill up the gaps and protect the lead
from
the terminal block screw.



if using nuts and washers washers use three

make the middle one oversize (or ream its hole a bit)
and pass the lead through it too.




I used the coil technique, and it worked. Thanks for that.

For the record, I ran this cheap Sunbeam benchtop oven until the sensor
showed 240degrees, and then turned the power off. The temperature
continued to rise, peaking at 257 degrees.

Even without any monitoring, I was able to get a board to reflow (double
sided at that), and work, though whether it would be reliable in the
long term is another question.

Sylvia.

However, lest anyone else rushes out and tries this, I should say that I
now think that the porcelain terminal block approach is not the way to
go, because the block has so much thermal inertia, and the sensor is
very close to it. This is likely the source of the overshoot I mentioned.

It's particularly noticeable during cooling. When sensor still shows
over 100C, the aluminium tray is cool enough to touch. At that point the
terminal block isn't despite having a much lower thermal conductivity,
which would make it feel cooler.

Sylvia.

You can buy little "thermocouple welders" that use an arc to join fine
thermocouple wires together.
http://www.omega.com/pptst/TL_WELD.html

Since I didn't want to buy one of those, I used this oil burner ignition
transformer instead:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37778900@N06/3736167302/

Quite likely a CRT television EHT transformer with ZVS driver would do
as well, though a lower voltage and higher current might be preferable,
and perhaps safer.

I would suggest you make the wires to be welded parallel, with the bare
ends pointing the same way. You need to twist together the ends of the
two wires you want to join, and ground them both (and temporarily
short-circuit the PT100 in your case, to prevent current passing through
it). Then a fraction of a second of the arc hitting the end of the wires
will cause them to melt and form a ball of metal, a weld. I hold the
wires to be welded in a sort of clamp so that only the part to be melted
protrudes to where the arc can hit it. I would suggest making sure both
wires have a similar melting point. If you are picky you can perform
this process under argon, but I have not found this to be necessary.
Small disposable argon cylinders are available at some welding shops,
e.g. gasweld.

Of course don't allow the transformer to be plugged in when people are
close enough to it to be able to get an electric shock, also do not eat
the transformer, beware hot things are hot, do not make the sparks near
flammable materials, etc.

Chris
 

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