Help. Is my TV Dead???

[Fred Mann]

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
Any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Fred Mann

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

Yup, get it to a fix-it shop, the info you gave is not going to help us help
you
"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
Any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Fred Mann

 

[Pac-Fan]

You have (had) a vertical deflection problem.

Likely you have (had) dried out electrolytic capacitors causing this, and as
they warmed up they slightly improved the picture.

However after running it for some time after it started to collapse can
cause additional components to fail such as shorted ICs/Transistors and
overheated resistors (as is well known in Magnavox TVs)

Also fiddling with "all the screws" means it is now probably significantly
out of adjustment and will require more than a couple simple capacitors
replaced, meaning tons of shop time costing more than a new TV would, if you
don't have the knowledge of repairing it yourself.


"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
Any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Fred Mann

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> writes:

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.

You have an electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection output
that is drying up. It's an easy repair but you'll have to take it
to a professional to find the part and replace it.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[jriegle]

The capacitor probably cost $2 and some time to solder it in. It would
probably cost him more than the TV is worth at that age if he took it to a
shop.

I was given a TV that had the bright horizontal line across the screen. I
heard it had to be rapped on the side to make it work, but finally that
didn't help. I knew it was a bad solder joint and had it fixed that night.

Sad to see so many electronics going to the land fill over a minor problem.
John

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy8w5q39e.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> writes:

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.

You have an electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection output
that is drying up. It's an easy repair but you'll have to take it
to a professional to find the part and replace it.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. T
o
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Joseph Meehan]

Cost of parts real cheap. Amount of labor to do the repair cheap. The
cost of checking it out and getting ready to replace the parts, about equal
to a new set.

It is a classic problem, and if you find someone who does not like to
make enough to live on, they may fix it cheap and that would be worth it,
but most shops have a minimal charge and that may be more than it is worth.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
Any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Fred Mann

 

[David]

And from his post regarding fiddling with knobs inside the set and
absolutely no indication of any real technical knowledge, his best option is
to take the set into a reputable and qualified servicer for repair. Even
with some adjustment screw ups on that set, repair still likely to run under
$90 TOTAL. Would have probably been under $75 had he not screwed it up
worse by not knowing what he was doing.

David

jriegle <jriegle@att.net> wrote in message
news:AFoeb.159600$0v4.11968321@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

The capacitor probably cost $2 and some time to solder it in. It would
probably cost him more than the TV is worth at that age if he took it to a
shop.

I was given a TV that had the bright horizontal line across the screen. I
heard it had to be rapped on the side to make it work, but finally that
didn't help. I knew it was a bad solder joint and had it fixed that night.

Sad to see so many electronics going to the land fill over a minor
problem.
John

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy8w5q39e.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> writes:

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I
turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see
the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is,
and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost
an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.

You have an electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection output
that is drying up. It's an easy repair but you'll have to take it
to a professional to find the part and replace it.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work.
T
o
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"jriegle" <jriegle@att.net> writes:

The capacitor probably cost $2 and some time to solder it in. It would
probably cost him more than the TV is worth at that age if he took it to a
shop.

But how much is it worth to HIM? If it's the difference between tossing
it and buying a new one or fixing it for $50 or $75 and it is in decent
condition otherwise, it might be worth fixing.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[James Sweet]

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.

*Never* ever fiddle with internal adjustments when a problem occurs, you
will often make it impossible to repair at that point because a tech will
never know when they've fixed the original problem if it's all out of wack,
adjustments DON'T just change on modern sets and don't need to be messed
with once the unit leaves the factory.

The original problem was a few bad capacitors in the vertical section, who
knows if you'll ever get it right after messing with the adjustments though.

 

[Andre]

"jriegle" <jriegle@att.net> wrote in message news:<AFoeb.159600$0v4.11968321@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...

The capacitor probably cost $2 and some time to solder it in. It would
probably cost him more than the TV is worth at that age if he took it to a
shop.

I was given a TV that had the bright horizontal line across the screen. I
heard it had to be rapped on the side to make it work, but finally that
didn't help. I knew it was a bad solder joint and had it fixed that night.

Seen that . One IC in the vertical stage was fried, and a resistor .
This was on a Toshiba .

AFAIK its still going ! .

-A

Sad to see so many electronics going to the land fill over a minor problem.
John

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy8w5q39e.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> writes:

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.

You have an electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection output
that is drying up. It's an easy repair but you'll have to take it
to a professional to find the part and replace it.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. T
o
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[David]

Go ahead and do a Goole Droups archive search at this newsgroup for Toshiba
vertical and see what comes up. You might even try the exact model number
as well. You will however have to be able to identify the vertical output
ic and jungle ic before proceeding. If that is beyond your scope of
experience, at the very least consider giving the set to someone who will
fix it rather than bin it to keep it out of the landfill a few more years.

You are still more than likely looking at under $75 total repair if you can
find a reputable service shop and typically they will warranty the repair
for a few months in case of repeat problem.

David

Fred Mann <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:9uHeb.1070$9a7.509@bignews6.bellsouth.net...

Thanks for all the replies!
As far as the adjustments that I made are concerned - I didn't adjust all
of
the screws, and the ones I did adjust, I returned to their original
positions (some screws are "glued" in place). So, presumably the problem
could still be easily resolved if the capicitor is the only problem.
Unfortunately, I am unable to identify the "electrolytic capacitor in the
vertical deflection output". Are there any diagrams online which would
help
me identify this, or is it labled on the board? Like one of the posters
said, it's a shame to junk an item over a $2 part. Obviously, I don't care
if I make it worse, so I'm willing to give it a shot. Can anybody tell me
how to identify this part(s)? (Taking it to a repair place is out of the
question as the minimum fees around here are $50 bucks or so)
Thanks again everybody!
Fred



"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vqueb.644483$Ho3.134413@sccrnsc03...

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I
turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see
the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is,
and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost
an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.

*Never* ever fiddle with internal adjustments when a problem occurs, you
will often make it impossible to repair at that point because a tech
will
never know when they've fixed the original problem if it's all out of
wack,
adjustments DON'T just change on modern sets and don't need to be messed
with once the unit leaves the factory.

The original problem was a few bad capacitors in the vertical section,
who
knows if you'll ever get it right after messing with the adjustments
though.

 

[Fred Mann]

Thanks for all the replies!
As far as the adjustments that I made are concerned - I didn't adjust all of
the screws, and the ones I did adjust, I returned to their original
positions (some screws are "glued" in place). So, presumably the problem
could still be easily resolved if the capicitor is the only problem.
Unfortunately, I am unable to identify the "electrolytic capacitor in the
vertical deflection output". Are there any diagrams online which would help
me identify this, or is it labled on the board? Like one of the posters
said, it's a shame to junk an item over a $2 part. Obviously, I don't care
if I make it worse, so I'm willing to give it a shot. Can anybody tell me
how to identify this part(s)? (Taking it to a repair place is out of the
question as the minimum fees around here are $50 bucks or so)
Thanks again everybody!
Fred



"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vqueb.644483$Ho3.134413@sccrnsc03...

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch
of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.

*Never* ever fiddle with internal adjustments when a problem occurs, you
will often make it impossible to repair at that point because a tech will
never know when they've fixed the original problem if it's all out of
wack,
adjustments DON'T just change on modern sets and don't need to be messed
with once the unit leaves the factory.

The original problem was a few bad capacitors in the vertical section, who
knows if you'll ever get it right after messing with the adjustments
though.

 

[Art Begun]

Same thing happened to my 19" Toshiba. Repair was about $125. Was it
worth it? We liked the TV and some of the new ones at the time
(several years ago) looked like junk. I would probably check the
market now before spending that much on repair since a lot has changed
TV wise in the last couple of years.



"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:iRieb.165$Nz6.120@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I
turn the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see
the top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is,
and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost
an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well
as almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's
nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
Any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Fred Mann

 

[Horatio Hornblower]

On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:14:32 -0700, "Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

:Hello,
:My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn the
:TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the middle
f the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the top
:half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
:black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half gradually
:unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a half-inch of
:black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
:hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as almost
:every other screw back there - to no avail.
:Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
:special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.
:Any ideas?
:Thanks everyone!
:Fred Mann


On a related note (if I may piggy back here), my 14 or so year old 20
inch JVC TV (it was one of the very best 20 inch TVs in 1989 or so)
works fine except that the tube has been losing brightness over the last
several years. I now have the brightness and contrast set at the highest
levels and for most broadcasts it's OK, but for some it's really not
bright enough. Is it not cost effective to replace the tube (I assume
that's the only remedy short of buying a new TV)? I could get another TV
or even go HDTV (I'd like to!), but I'm pretty darn busy already and
buying a TV nowadays is a lot more complicated than it used to be. I
wouldn't feel comfortable buying a new set/monitor without doing my
homework. TIA

hh

PS This is a JVC AV-2058S with S-Video input and lots of controls.

 

[do_not_spam_me]

Horatio Hornblower <hh@hismajestiesship.com> wrote in message news:<5fhonvsrcaohaju47em1qsv8dg1mcntcnm@4ax.com>...

On a related note (if I may piggy back here), my 14 or so year old 20
inch JVC TV (it was one of the very best 20 inch TVs in 1989 or so)
works fine except that the tube has been losing brightness over the last
several years. I now have the brightness and contrast set at the highest
levels and for most broadcasts it's OK, but for some it's really not
bright enough. Is it not cost effective to replace the tube (I assume
that's the only remedy short of buying a new TV)? I could get another TV
or even go HDTV (I'd like to!), but I'm pretty darn busy already and
buying a TV nowadays is a lot more complicated than it used to be. I
wouldn't feel comfortable buying a new set/monitor without doing my
homework. TIA

PS This is a JVC AV-2058S with S-Video input and lots of controls.

Read www.repairfaq.org, especially the safety precautions.

A Japanese TV that old almost surely has a high-quality Japanese
picture tube that can easily last 15-20 years (I have one 20+ years
old that's still bright and sharp), so try turning up the SCREEN
control on the flyback transformer (2-3" cube of black or grey plastic
with thick cable going to the side of the picture tube). This may be
accessible through a small hole in the back of the cabinet, but more
likely the rear half of the cabinet will have to be removed to gain
access. This makes the adjustment procedure much, much more hazardous
because of the risk of electrocution, so you may want to make the
adjustment only while the TV is unplugged (mark initial position of
the control, rotate it 1/8 turn each time until it's bright enough).
If you dare adjust the TV while it's plugged in, set it on a
nonconductive surface, such as a wooden table. The chassis itself
often has high voltage on it, so it must not touch metal, and you must
not touch it. Also you must plug the TV into a wall outlet protected
by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI or GFI), but this won't
protect you against all electric shocks, and GFCIs sometimes fail
(test yours just before use). Get a large mirror so you can see the
picture or else you'll tend to get too close to exposed high voltage
areas and kill yourself. Use a special all-plastic screwdriver made
for high voltage work (Radio Shack or an TV or electronics supply will
have them; they have no metal except for maybe the last 1/8" of the
tip). Do NOT substitute an ordinary metal screwdriver with a plastic
handle, and do NOT simply wrap the metal shaft with electrical tape.
Wear rubber soled shoes, and keep one hand in your pocket to make it
less likely that you'll create a complete electrical path with your
body (a path that sends electricity up one arm, through your heart,
and out the other arm). Never do this kind of work alone; always have
someone else in the same room to call 911 and administer CPR if you
get shocked.

Another risk is that the TV may tip over forward and break its picture
tube, which will cause shards of glass and metal to shoot out
violently. So be sure that the TV can't break (place big pillows in
front, or lay it face-down on foam rubber while you remove its back).

You may have to adjust the FOCUS control after turning up the SCREEN
since this can make the picture blurry.

If the picture stays dim, you may need to replace some electrolytic
capacitors (not that difficult or expensive) or the flyback
(impractical, although some old ones are under $20 from
www.mcmelectronics.com). There are several of those capacitors around
the flyback that wear out, and any replacements must not be installed
backwards (check original polarity markings on capacitors and circuit
board), and they must be rated for at least as much voltage as the
originals, but capacitance values can be slightly lower or higher
(often double is still OK).

 

[do_not_spam_me]

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:<9uHeb.1070$9a7.509@bignews6.bellsouth.net>...

So, presumably the problem could still be easily resolved if
the capicitor is the only problem. Unfortunately, I am unable
to identify the "electrolytic capacitor in the vertical
deflection output".

You should be able to find the vertical circuitry because almost every
TV's main board is marked off by major function -- power, vertical,
horizontal, tuner, chroma, sound, etc., but the markings may be on the
other side. Some libraries carry repair manuals, usually "Sams
Photofacts." Or you could write down the markings found on the chips
of the main board and look them up at www.nteinc.com or www.bdent.com.
Then replace all the electrolytics located around any chip that
handles vertical output/sync.

Electrolytics aren't expensive if you buy them from the right place,
like BDEnt or DigiKey, and you can replace all or most of them for
little money. I've found that the lower-voltage ones don't fail that
much, unless they're connected to the flyback transformer (many of
those are rated for 105 Celcius), while the ones rated for at least
80-100V fail much more often (the one causing your problem is probably
rated 150-200V).

 

[Tony Hwang]

Hi,
Inside TV there present lethal HV. Not a good idea for people who are
not familiar with this.
Tony

do_not_spam_me wrote:

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:<9uHeb.1070$9a7.509@bignews6.bellsouth.net>...


So, presumably the problem could still be easily resolved if
the capicitor is the only problem. Unfortunately, I am unable
to identify the "electrolytic capacitor in the vertical
deflection output".


You should be able to find the vertical circuitry because almost every
TV's main board is marked off by major function -- power, vertical,
horizontal, tuner, chroma, sound, etc., but the markings may be on the
other side. Some libraries carry repair manuals, usually "Sams
Photofacts." Or you could write down the markings found on the chips
of the main board and look them up at www.nteinc.com or www.bdent.com.
Then replace all the electrolytics located around any chip that
handles vertical output/sync.

Electrolytics aren't expensive if you buy them from the right place,
like BDEnt or DigiKey, and you can replace all or most of them for
little money. I've found that the lower-voltage ones don't fail that
much, unless they're connected to the flyback transformer (many of
those are rated for 105 Celcius), while the ones rated for at least
80-100V fail much more often (the one causing your problem is probably
rated 150-200V).

 

[eric]

try sci.electronics.repair --- !!!

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:ROtfb.13125$9l5.6381@pd7tw2no...

Hi,
Inside TV there present lethal HV. Not a good idea for people who are
not familiar with this.
Tony

do_not_spam_me wrote:

"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:<9uHeb.1070$9a7.509@bignews6.bellsouth.net>...


So, presumably the problem could still be easily resolved if
the capicitor is the only problem. Unfortunately, I am unable
to identify the "electrolytic capacitor in the vertical
deflection output".


You should be able to find the vertical circuitry because almost every
TV's main board is marked off by major function -- power, vertical,
horizontal, tuner, chroma, sound, etc., but the markings may be on the
other side. Some libraries carry repair manuals, usually "Sams
Photofacts." Or you could write down the markings found on the chips
of the main board and look them up at www.nteinc.com or www.bdent.com.
Then replace all the electrolytics located around any chip that
handles vertical output/sync.

Electrolytics aren't expensive if you buy them from the right place,
like BDEnt or DigiKey, and you can replace all or most of them for
little money. I've found that the lower-voltage ones don't fail that
much, unless they're connected to the flyback transformer (many of
those are rated for 105 Celcius), while the ones rated for at least
80-100V fail much more often (the one causing your problem is probably
rated 150-200V).

 

[Terry]

jriegle wrote:

The capacitor probably cost $2 and some time to solder it in. It would
probably cost him more than the TV is worth at that age if he took it to a
shop.

I was given a TV that had the bright horizontal line across the screen. I
heard it had to be rapped on the side to make it work, but finally that
didn't help. I knew it was a bad solder joint and had it fixed that night.

Sad to see so many electronics going to the land fill over a minor problem.
John

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy8w5q39e.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
"Fred Mann" <fredmann@bellsouth.net> writes:

Hello,
My TV has a problem which has been getting worse and worse. When I turn
the
TV on, the bottom half of the image is compressed upward toward the
middle
of the screen. So, if the screen is showing a head shot, you'll see the
top
half of the head fine, then there's a bright band where the nose is, and
black screen underneath that. As the TV warms up, the bottom half
gradually
unfurls to cover the full screen, but never completely (maybe a
half-inch of
black screen remains). This "decompression" process now takes almost an
hour. I took the back off and adjusted the "height" screw, as well as
almost
every other screw back there - to no avail.
Is this fixable? The TV is an 8 or 9 year old Toshiba, so it's nothing
special. But, if it's an easy fix, I'd just as soon repair it.

You have an electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection output
that is drying up. It's an easy repair but you'll have to take it
to a professional to find the part and replace it.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. T
o
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

With apologies to MC! Yes and also;
Cost of materials to fix the problem $10 or less. Possibly only a
capacitor and some solder?
Time spent and identifying where and how to fix the problem;
along with all the tools, test gear and knowhow, cost of
electricity and other shop costs, telephone-vehicle costs,
liability insurance, substitution equipment and/or parts on hand
...... etc. etc. $60).
Time spent talking to customer etc. Priceless!

 

[Horatio Hornblower]

On 3 Oct 2003 22:18:45 -0700, do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com
(do_not_spam_me) wrote:

:Horatio Hornblower <hh@hismajestiesship.com> wrote in message news:<5fhonvsrcaohaju47em1qsv8dg1mcntcnm@4ax.com>...
:
:> On a related note (if I may piggy back here), my 14 or so year old 20
:> inch JVC TV (it was one of the very best 20 inch TVs in 1989 or so)
:> works fine except that the tube has been losing brightness over the last
:> several years. I now have the brightness and contrast set at the highest
:> levels and for most broadcasts it's OK, but for some it's really not
:> bright enough. Is it not cost effective to replace the tube (I assume
:> that's the only remedy short of buying a new TV)? I could get another TV
:> or even go HDTV (I'd like to!), but I'm pretty darn busy already and
:> buying a TV nowadays is a lot more complicated than it used to be. I
:> wouldn't feel comfortable buying a new set/monitor without doing my
:> homework. TIA
:
:> PS This is a JVC AV-2058S with S-Video input and lots of controls.
:
:Read www.repairfaq.org, especially the safety precautions.
:
:A Japanese TV that old almost surely has a high-quality Japanese
icture tube that can easily last 15-20 years (I have one 20+ years
ld that's still bright and sharp), so try turning up the SCREEN
:control on the flyback transformer (2-3" cube of black or grey plastic
:with thick cable going to the side of the picture tube). This may be
:accessible through a small hole in the back of the cabinet, but more
:likely the rear half of the cabinet will have to be removed to gain
:access. This makes the adjustment procedure much, much more hazardous
:because of the risk of electrocution, so you may want to make the
:adjustment only while the TV is unplugged (mark initial position of
:the control, rotate it 1/8 turn each time until it's bright enough).
:If you dare adjust the TV while it's plugged in, set it on a
:nonconductive surface, such as a wooden table. The chassis itself
ften has high voltage on it, so it must not touch metal, and you must
:not touch it. Also you must plug the TV into a wall outlet protected
:by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI or GFI), but this won't
rotect you against all electric shocks, and GFCIs sometimes fail
test yours just before use). Get a large mirror so you can see the
icture or else you'll tend to get too close to exposed high voltage
:areas and kill yourself. Use a special all-plastic screwdriver made
:for high voltage work (Radio Shack or an TV or electronics supply will
:have them; they have no metal except for maybe the last 1/8" of the
:tip). Do NOT substitute an ordinary metal screwdriver with a plastic
:handle, and do NOT simply wrap the metal shaft with electrical tape.
:Wear rubber soled shoes, and keep one hand in your pocket to make it
:less likely that you'll create a complete electrical path with your
:body (a path that sends electricity up one arm, through your heart,
:and out the other arm). Never do this kind of work alone; always have
:someone else in the same room to call 911 and administer CPR if you
:get shocked.
:
:Another risk is that the TV may tip over forward and break its picture
:tube, which will cause shards of glass and metal to shoot out
:violently. So be sure that the TV can't break (place big pillows in
:front, or lay it face-down on foam rubber while you remove its back).
:
:You may have to adjust the FOCUS control after turning up the SCREEN
:since this can make the picture blurry.
:
:If the picture stays dim, you may need to replace some electrolytic
:capacitors (not that difficult or expensive) or the flyback
impractical, although some old ones are under $20 from
:www.mcmelectronics.com). There are several of those capacitors around
:the flyback that wear out, and any replacements must not be installed
:backwards (check original polarity markings on capacitors and circuit
:board), and they must be rated for at least as much voltage as the
riginals, but capacitance values can be slightly lower or higher
often double is still OK).

Thanks very much. I will be extremely careful when I do the
adjustment(s).