furnace motor

[Humbled Survivor]

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13

My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to cut
in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor. 18 AWG is
enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3 HP. I have to
take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also to swap out motors
when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up with a 1/4 HP motor but
it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3 HP, and I have a backup
motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give equal
weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from plugging 110 into
a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

 

[dave]

On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13


My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

I'd buy something beefier. That's a 2 conductor plus ground connector.

http://www.electrical-connectors.org/power/nema-twistlock.html

 

[dave]

On 08/11/2013 07:07 AM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:

You got me curious here, where do you live ? Down here the furnace gets 110 and the condensing unit gets 220. I have never ever lubed a furnace blower motor and just assume(d) it was permanently lubed or whatever. I actually have known people who had to replace them from time to time, but never had to myself. On gas furnaces we generally have to replace the ignitors and if remiss in changing or cleaning filters, overtemp sensors.

Seems to me unless it is an odd installation you should get at least a decade out of these motors, or is the airway (in or out) somehow compromised, restricted or something ? Of course in some houses there are unavoidable compromises in an installation but I am having a hard time imagining one that would eat blower motors. Even when a forced air is installed in a house that had gravity originally, you might be feeding the system semi-backwards, but the ducts are usually huge.

Of course some might run the blower all the time, for example if they use it with an electrostatic air cleaner, someone with allergies might do this.

Anyway, so much for my curiousity. Those PC power cords are not really quite the wire guage I would use for that application. I've seen them someotimes looks like 18 guage or something. In fact I almost have doubt about connecting them to those monster 750 watt PC power supplies, but in reality the PC almoist never could possible draw that. Even a server with dual Xeon (?) processors and 500 GB of RAM shouldn't pull that much, although enough harddrives could add up. That big power outage we had on the east side of the US happened right after I had installed yet ANOTHER 50 pin SCSI drive in my tower, which had two power supplies connected together by the kind of cable in your link. The good old AT days when you could shut off your PC and you knew that lightnoing hitting the power lines would not fry it. Usually......

Anyway, if space permits mechanically you can stick like a one horse motor in there, especially when you have 220 V on tap. It will not cost you all that much power unless it is actually loaded. If it is loaded then the problem is obviously that it needs a more powerful motor for the job. I have no idea, maybe your house is 10,000 square feet, but usually in houses that big they install multiple furnaces for several reasons.

The WW Grainger catalog is your friend.

 

You got me curious here, where do you live ? Down here the furnace gets 110 and the condensing unit gets 220. I have never ever lubed a furnace blower motor and just assume(d) it was permanently lubed or whatever. I actually have known people who had to replace them from time to time, but never had to myself. On gas furnaces we generally have to replace the ignitors and if remiss in changing or cleaning filters, overtemp sensors.

Seems to me unless it is an odd installation you should get at least a decade out of these motors, or is the airway (in or out) somehow compromised, restricted or something ? Of course in some houses there are unavoidable compromises in an installation but I am having a hard time imagining one that would eat blower motors. Even when a forced air is installed in a house that had gravity originally, you might be feeding the system semi-backwards, but the ducts are usually huge.

Of course some might run the blower all the time, for example if they use it with an electrostatic air cleaner, someone with allergies might do this.

Anyway, so much for my curiousity. Those PC power cords are not really quite the wire guage I would use for that application. I've seen them someotimes looks like 18 guage or something. In fact I almost have doubt about connecting them to those monster 750 watt PC power supplies, but in reality the PC almoist never could possible draw that. Even a server with dual Xeon (?) processors and 500 GB of RAM shouldn't pull that much, although enough harddrives could add up. That big power outage we had on the east side of the US happened right after I had installed yet ANOTHER 50 pin SCSI drive in my tower, which had two power supplies connected together by the kind of cable in your link. The good old AT days when you could shut off your PC and you knew that lightnoing hitting the power lines would not fry it. Usually.......

Anyway, if space permits mechanically you can stick like a one horse motor in there, especially when you have 220 V on tap. It will not cost you all that much power unless it is actually loaded. If it is loaded then the problem is obviously that it needs a more powerful motor for the job. I have no idea, maybe your house is 10,000 square feet, but usually in houses that big they install multiple furnaces for several reasons.

 

[dave]

On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13


My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

This is perfect. $10

 

[cjt]

On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:

On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13



My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466


This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

 

[John Robertson]

On 08/11/2013 10:14 AM, cjt wrote:

On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:
On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13




My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

Electrical Code? We don't need no stinking code...

http://www.888bailbond.com/news/officer-saves-pair-from-burning-home/

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[dave]

On 08/11/2013 10:14 AM, cjt wrote:

On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:
On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13




My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

Code? He wanted to use an IEC cord. I am pointing to a more robust
portable solution. If he has to do it permanently the wire should
already be in place and he should need no removable section. They have
flexible conduit at Home Depot.

 

[dave]

On 08/11/2013 10:18 AM, John Robertson wrote:

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

Electrical Code? We don't need no stinking code...

http://www.888bailbond.com/news/officer-saves-pair-from-burning-home/

John :-#)#

I ran a circulating hot water system in Texas for years (radio studios).
I had to replace the circulation motor once. It was shiny red like a
fire engine. I got the replacement at Graingers. It had a resilient
direct drive coupling to the impeller pump proper. There was an adjacent
heat exchanger in the refrigeration blower (downstairs), all the
upstairs rooms had radiators like back East.

I never failed a boiler inspection.

 

[cjt]

On 08/11/2013 12:18 PM, John Robertson wrote:

On 08/11/2013 10:14 AM, cjt wrote:
On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:
On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13





My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got
this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for
1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you
think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466




This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

Electrical Code? We don't need no stinking code...

http://www.888bailbond.com/news/officer-saves-pair-from-burning-home/

John :-#)#

Tell that to the jury when your kids have a sleepover, the house burns
down killing the guests, and their parents sue for negligence ...

 

[bud--]

On 8/11/2013 11:14 AM, cjt wrote:

On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:
On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13




My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

I know of no requirement in the NEC. The furnace has to be hard-wired to
power.

A 230V 1/3 HP motor runs at under 4A. It is not the connector I would
use but should work. Are the cord and connector rated for 230V? If there
was a fire at the connection it is not likely to go anywhere in a
furnace (that is, I don't see this as a high risk location).

I assume the original wiring did not include a ground wire (motor
grounded through the mounting).

 

[Humbled Survivor]

"bud--" <remove.budnews@isp.com> wrote in message
news:5208edae$0$44197$c3e8da3$38634283@news.astraweb.com...

On 8/11/2013 11:14 AM, cjt wrote:
On 08/11/2013 11:49 AM, dave wrote:
On 08/09/2013 08:06 PM, Humbled Survivor wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-03141-Extension-IEC320C13-IEC320C14/dp/B000067RRX/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376103687&sr=1-3&keywords=IEC320C13




My furnace blower fan motor has 3 wires for two speeds, so I got this
to
cut in half and put the connector between the breakers and the motor.
18 AWG is enough, but if not I'll find out. The motor is 220VAC at 1/3
HP. I have to take the motor out once a year to lubricate it, and also
to swap out motors when they go bad. The last furnace tech set me up
with a 1/4 HP motor but it burned out. The furnace was designed for 1/3
HP, and I have a backup motor when this one goes bad.

This is a computer plug and socket. I wanted a different kind to give
equal weight to all 3 connectors and to prevent some whimso from
plugging 110 into a 220 receptacle.

Not that it is going to make any difference, but tell me what you
think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321181844429&item=321181844429&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



This is perfect. $10

I thought the Code required a permanent connection ...

I know of no requirement in the NEC. The furnace has to be hard-wired to
power.

A 230V 1/3 HP motor runs at under 4A. It is not the connector I would use
but should work. Are the cord and connector rated for 230V? If there was a
fire at the connection it is not likely to go anywhere in a furnace (that
is, I don't see this as a high risk location).

I assume the original wiring did not include a ground wire (motor grounded
through the mounting).

This is an electric furnace in a house trailer. The last 1/4 HP motor
burned out, so I put in the 1/3 HP motor as designated on the schematic.

I think I am going to just label all the wires and keep them connected with
wire nuts. A plug would be nice but it would turn out messy and confusing.
It's a 1972 house trailer. I've had the furnace apart and put back together
every which way. I've replaced relays and sequencers, breakers and
terminals. The furnace guys who come in can't fix it, so I fix it myself.
It went through last winter without incident. This winter I have a spare
fan motor/capacitor. The required motor is 240 VAC, 1/3 HP, 2-speed. The
one in there now I had to reverse the stator so the fan would blow in the
squirrel cage the right direction.

Thank you for all of your discussion. It was interesting to read.

I'm waiting for my buddy to weld the motor mount for the backup welder. Two
straps of steel wrap around the motor with squirrel cage mounts welded to
the straps. This required the use of PI to calculate circumference. Two
large machine screws tighten the straps together. My buddy has a MIG
welder.