Fender Bassman 250 , PR597, 2005

N

N_Cook

Guest
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?
 
I expected some no-name Chinese make but no , it is Neutrik with this crappy
design.
Reassembled preamp with the socket exposed and it was then obvious there is
a third way to loose ground contact. There is no sprung contact to the
sleeve of the jack , just rests on the chromed barrel , relying on the
spring contacts of the tip and ring to supply pressure to keep the sleeve in
contact with the inside and innermost small segment of arc of the chromed
barrel . Even without WD40 , corrossion and general crud , because of the
lever action, it takes very little upward force on the jack, at the cable
end , to lift the sleeve and break contact.

So failure mechanism probably went like this.
Bad ground contact due to slack nut. Instead of tightening, owner squirts
WD40 in there which
pools in the lower surface of the barrel , collects crud, congeals etc.
Eventually he tightens the nut , but by then its too late. A get by , on the
road, solution to this would probably be some sort of reaming action inside
the bush barrel
 
spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:472c1c5d-0fca-464a-a193-9948562bca60@pp9g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 3:27 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I expected some no-name Chinese make but no , it is Neutrik with this
crappy
design.
Reassembled preamp with the socket exposed and it was then obvious there
is
a third way to loose ground contact. There is no sprung contact to the
sleeve of the jack , just rests on the chromed barrel , relying on the
spring contacts of the tip and ring to supply pressure to keep the sleeve
in
contact with the inside and innermost small segment of arc of the chromed
barrel . Even without WD40 , corrossion and general crud , because of the
lever action, it takes very little upward force on the jack, at the cable
end , to lift the sleeve and break contact.

So failure mechanism probably went like this.
Bad ground contact due to slack nut. Instead of tightening, owner squirts
WD40 in there which
pools in the lower surface of the barrel , collects crud, congeals etc.
Eventually he tightens the nut , but by then its too late. A get by , on
the
road, solution to this would probably be some sort of reaming action
inside
the bush barrel
Click to expand...
You are replacing the socket with one that has spring-loaded contacts,
right?


+++++
and with plastic barrel and added star washer wired-in. You can then have
something like an interference fit between jack and barrel , so little or no
play in any off-axis direction. Because the Neutrik is metal and metal there
has to be a clearance fit and so its easy to break the sleeve contact.

Another problem in waiting. One of the o/p TOP3 the thread on the
alumininium "heatsink" block was stripped , presumably at production, not
loose but could not take any normal tightening force. Had to fashion up a
spring clip instead of the thru bolt
 
On Aug 1, 1:53 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then  just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received..
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
 plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?
Click to expand...
This is a guess, cheap way to add their phase and gain a larger air
surface without paying for it.

Like the old 4 x 4 array of 4 inch speakers called 'sweet sixtenn'
that had horrible resonances, but great bass.
 
Robert Macy <robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5fc85361-78e6-4ded-8b0e-ea6b8ed2a224@c11g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 1:53 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?
Click to expand...
This is a guess, cheap way to add their phase and gain a larger air
surface without paying for it.

Like the old 4 x 4 array of 4 inch speakers called 'sweet sixtenn'
that had horrible resonances, but great bass.

++++
I was thinking more in terms of frequency response.
The fundamental f of 2x 10 inch speakers is still the fundamerntal f of one
speaker which AFAIK is always going to be higher than a 12 inch or 15 inch
speaker, whetever the make or efficiency etc
 
On Aug 1, 3:27 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I expected some no-name Chinese make but no , it is Neutrik with this crappy
design.
Reassembled preamp with the socket exposed and it was then obvious there is
a third way to loose ground contact. There is no sprung contact to the
sleeve of the jack , just rests on the chromed barrel , relying on the
spring contacts of the tip and ring to supply pressure to keep the sleeve in
contact with the inside and innermost small segment of arc of the chromed
barrel . Even without WD40 , corrossion and general crud , because of the
lever action, it takes very little upward force on the jack, at the cable
end , to lift the sleeve and break contact.

So failure mechanism probably went like this.
Bad ground contact due to slack nut. Instead of tightening, owner squirts
WD40 in there which
pools in the lower surface of the barrel , collects crud, congeals etc.
Eventually he tightens the nut , but by then its too late. A get by , on the
road, solution to this would probably be some sort of reaming action inside
the bush barrel
Click to expand...
You are replacing the socket with one that has spring-loaded contacts,
right?
 
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jvaqsm$p5a$1@dont-email.me...
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?
Click to expand...

Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or 15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster dynamics than
15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but in my experience, what
many of us have believed for decades often turns out to be an urban myth.



Gareth.
 
"spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c0cc9819-c036-4557-95a5-1b62c16f03d2@sn4g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 9:16 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Robert Macy <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:5fc85361-78e6-4ded-8b0e-ea6b8ed2a224@c11g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 1:53 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:









Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen
,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the
sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the
now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4
pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed
barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know
what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when
received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has
certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal
bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal,
until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?

This is a guess, cheap way to add their phase and gain a larger air
surface without paying for it.

Like the old 4 x 4 array of 4 inch speakers called 'sweet sixtenn'
that had horrible resonances, but great bass.

++++
I was thinking more in terms of frequency response.
The fundamental f of 2x 10 inch speakers is still the fundamerntal f of
one
speaker which AFAIK is always going to be higher than a 12 inch or 15
inch
speaker, whetever the make or efficiency etc

What is the resonance of those speakers in that box? It should be no
higher than 40 Hz or so, or else the notes won't all play at the same
volume, right?
Click to expand...

Get a grip, ffs. This is a cheap chinese combo with "Fender" written on
the front.


Gareth.
 
On Aug 1, 9:16 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Robert Macy <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:5fc85361-78e6-4ded-8b0e-ea6b8ed2a224@c11g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 1:53 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:









Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?

This is a guess, cheap way to add their phase and gain a larger air
surface without paying for it.

Like the old 4 x 4 array of 4 inch speakers called 'sweet sixtenn'
that had horrible resonances, but great bass.

++++
I was thinking more in terms of frequency response.
The fundamental f of 2x 10 inch speakers is still the fundamerntal f of one
speaker which AFAIK is always going to be higher than a 12 inch or 15 inch
speaker, whetever the make or efficiency etc
Click to expand...
What is the resonance of those speakers in that box? It should be no
higher than 40 Hz or so, or else the notes won't all play at the same
volume, right?
 
On Aug 1, 9:16 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Robert Macy <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:5fc85361-78e6-4ded-8b0e-ea6b8ed2a224@c11g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 1, 1:53 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:





Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal, until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?

This is a guess, cheap way to add their phase and gain a larger air
surface without paying for it.

Like the old 4 x 4 array of 4 inch speakers called 'sweet sixtenn'
that had horrible resonances, but great bass.

++++
I was thinking more in terms of frequency response.
The fundamental f of 2x 10 inch speakers is still the fundamerntal f of one
speaker which AFAIK is always going to be higher than a 12 inch or 15 inch
speaker, whetever the make or efficiency etc
Click to expand...

It is my understanding that...
speaker by itself has f
two speakers side by side has a lower f
Measure sound output, the two help each other, just as the 16 lower
the overall f of the speaker system
 
The other unprofessional thing , strips of sticky tape on the pot shafts to
keep the knobs on
 
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:gleSr.286786$GO2.126290@fx05.am4...
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jvaqsm$p5a$1@dont-email.me...
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen ,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4 pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know
what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when
received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal
bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal,
until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?





Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or 15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster dynamics
than 15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but in my
experience, what many of us have believed for decades often turns out to
be an urban myth.



Gareth.
Click to expand...
Slap bass and popping are much more 'percussive' than conventional fingered
bass playing, and I would guess that the stiffness and lower cone mass of a
pair of 10s over 12s, 15s or 18s, might better suit this style of playing.

Arfa
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:sLzSr.372923$ma6.243240@fx09.am4...
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:gleSr.286786$GO2.126290@fx05.am4...


"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jvaqsm$p5a$1@dont-email.me...
Bad input socket, is there a generic problem with these?
Of course I thought it was a PbF problem but it escaped that , leaded
solder
inside. Solder joints seem fine and no broken tag. Socket make not seen
,
not desoldered yet, maybe make underneath.
The jack centre line is off-centre of the socket centre line , the
sleeve
contact is a barrel which is chromed and only makes contact with the now
tarnished ground contact if the metal bush nut is tight and the 4
pointed
grounding tangs are not bent and are making good contact with chassis
metal.
So 2 ways of loosing ground contact. With no bush nut the chromed barrel
will rotate a few degrees and then just touching contact to the socket
ground terminal .
Of course I have the preamp out of the chassis now and so do not know
what
the initial state was other than the bush nut was not loose when
received.
All compounded by gallons of WD40 squirted everywhere that has certainly
lost the tip and ring bypass contacts to ground with no jack inserted.
I can see repeated tightening/ overtightening? of the metal bush nut
plenty of spanner/wrench force can be applied as metal nut and metal
bush)
will deform the 4 tangs/ dig deeper pits into the front panel metal,
until
eventually no contact.

An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?





Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or 15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster dynamics
than 15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but in my
experience, what many of us have believed for decades often turns out to
be an urban myth.



Gareth.



Slap bass and popping are much more 'percussive' than conventional
fingered bass playing, and I would guess that the stiffness and lower cone
mass of a pair of 10s over 12s, 15s or 18s, might better suit this style
of playing.

Arfa
Click to expand...

I was kind of thinking that good quality 15's and 18's for bass guitar cabs
are often specifically designed for Bass Guitar. You wouldn't just stick a
PA speaker in there for instance, so maybe these are, or can be made, to be
just as punchy?

Dunno, I'm talking about something I don't know enough about.



Gareth.
 
The input was always bad from new, according to the owner, but got worse
over the years.
AFAICS no way could this design be of merchantable quality
 
<snip>


An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?





Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or
15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster dynamics
than 15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but in my
experience, what many of us have believed for decades often turns out to
be an urban myth.



Gareth.



Slap bass and popping are much more 'percussive' than conventional
fingered bass playing, and I would guess that the stiffness and lower
cone mass of a pair of 10s over 12s, 15s or 18s, might better suit this
style of playing.

Arfa



I was kind of thinking that good quality 15's and 18's for bass guitar
cabs are often specifically designed for Bass Guitar. You wouldn't just
stick a PA speaker in there for instance, so maybe these are, or can be
made, to be just as punchy?

Dunno, I'm talking about something I don't know enough about.



Gareth.
Click to expand...
Most bass combos that I seem to come across, are quite 'boomy' with their
12s or 15s, so probably well suited to normal fingered bass playing, which
has a softer more 'roly' characteristic.

I did a different model of Fender Bassman combo this week that was a tube
job, and this one had 4 x 10" all in parallel

Arfa
 
On 03/08/2012 17:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
snip



An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?





Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or
15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster
dynamics than 15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but
in my experience, what many of us have believed for decades often
turns out to be an urban myth.



Gareth.



Slap bass and popping are much more 'percussive' than conventional
fingered bass playing, and I would guess that the stiffness and lower
cone mass of a pair of 10s over 12s, 15s or 18s, might better suit
this style of playing.

Arfa



I was kind of thinking that good quality 15's and 18's for bass guitar
cabs are often specifically designed for Bass Guitar. You wouldn't
just stick a PA speaker in there for instance, so maybe these are, or
can be made, to be just as punchy?

Dunno, I'm talking about something I don't know enough about.



Gareth.


Most bass combos that I seem to come across, are quite 'boomy' with
their 12s or 15s, so probably well suited to normal fingered bass
playing, which has a softer more 'roly' characteristic.

I did a different model of Fender Bassman combo this week that was a
tube job, and this one had 4 x 10" all in parallel

Arfa
Click to expand...
That's the model beloved by blues harmonica players. Also excellent for
blues guitar.

Ron
 
"Ron Johnson" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:kqmdnVdFoOFieYHNnZ2dnUVZ8tadnZ2d@bt.com...
On 03/08/2012 17:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
snip



An aside , why 2x 10 inch speakers for a bass amp?





Personal taste. Some people prefer the sound of 10's than 12's or
15's.
There are many many different styles of bass playing out there.

It is often said that 10's are more punchy - i.e. have faster
dynamics than 15's due to the smaller motor mass to be moved - but
in my experience, what many of us have believed for decades often
turns out to be an urban myth.



Gareth.



Slap bass and popping are much more 'percussive' than conventional
fingered bass playing, and I would guess that the stiffness and lower
cone mass of a pair of 10s over 12s, 15s or 18s, might better suit
this style of playing.

Arfa



I was kind of thinking that good quality 15's and 18's for bass guitar
cabs are often specifically designed for Bass Guitar. You wouldn't
just stick a PA speaker in there for instance, so maybe these are, or
can be made, to be just as punchy?

Dunno, I'm talking about something I don't know enough about.



Gareth.


Most bass combos that I seem to come across, are quite 'boomy' with
their 12s or 15s, so probably well suited to normal fingered bass
playing, which has a softer more 'roly' characteristic.

I did a different model of Fender Bassman combo this week that was a
tube job, and this one had 4 x 10" all in parallel

Arfa

That's the model beloved by blues harmonica players. Also excellent for
blues guitar.

Ron
Click to expand...


Ah yes, these are the REAL Fender Bassmans.

The Fender Bassman amp being discussed here has no connection whatsoever
with the Fender Bassman of old - rather someone has bought the legal rights
to use the Fender Bassman name on any amp they might choose to now have made
in China.



Gareth.
 
This is probably the offending range
http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/plugs-jacks/slim-jacks/nrj6hm-1-pre
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jvl6ri$39i$1@dont-email.me...
This is probably the offending range
http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/plugs-jacks/slim-jacks/nrj6hm-1-pre
Click to expand...
You would think a native speaker on a ".uk" site would unscramble the
Lichtengrish but perhaps
"retentions spring" means there was some sort of sprung connection to the
sleeve , but totally missing or broken on this one

Feedback from the owner
"Just a quick word of thanks - the amp is in good working order and it makes
such a difference to be able to have confidence in it."
 
On Aug 7, 12:52 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
N_Cook <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message

news:jvl6ri$39i$1@dont-email.me...

This is probably the offending range
http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/plugs-jacks/slim-jacks/nrj6hm-1-pre

You would think a native speaker on a ".uk" site would unscramble the
Lichtengrish but perhaps
"retentions spring" means there was some sort of sprung connection to the
sleeve , but totally missing or broken on this one

Feedback from the owner
"Just a quick word of thanks - the amp is in good working order and it makes
such a difference to be able to have confidence in it."
Click to expand...
Do these Switchcraft jacks look any better?

http://www.switchcraft.com/category.aspx?Parent=3
 
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