Feedback on soldering effort and circuit analysis

A

AK

Guest
I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.

I plan on covering the cadmium photocell with a piece of 3 inch PVC to mitigate the effects of sunlight "faking out" the circuit into thinking that the laser beam has not been interrupted.

The s8550 burned up.

More are on order.

Do you think the circuit will work with some changes?

Is there something I can test in the meantime?

The speaker will work down to 1.7 volts.

thanks,

Andy

I think I have frustrated some folks that are helping me.
 
In article <179a8c7b-d88a-4e60-92fb-950af12face3@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.
Click to expand...

I don't know what value would be safe, but I would put a resistor of
about 1000 to 2000 ohmsin series with the pot to keep it from blowing
the transistor if the resistance of the pot is reduced too much.

Yes, yo did solder on the correct side of the board this time. Most
often you try to use the copper traces to interconnect the components.
 
On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 11:43:01 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <179a8c7b-d88a-4e60-92fb-950af12face3@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.




I don't know what value would be safe, but I would put a resistor of
about 1000 to 2000 ohmsin series with the pot to keep it from blowing
the transistor if the resistance of the pot is reduced too much.

Yes, yo did solder on the correct side of the board this time. Most
often you try to use the copper traces to interconnect the components.
Click to expand...

Are the copper traces those long sections of copper?

Andy
 
In article <52a2804f-88d2-4e01-b4d6-888ab2e6d26c@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...
Yes, yo did solder on the correct side of the board this time. Most
often you try to use the copper traces to interconnect the components.

Are the copper traces those long sections of copper?
Click to expand...

I referred to all the copper as copper tracing.

The long sections are often used for power circuits one being the
positive and the other being the negative on more complex circuits. Use
whichever is easiest for the plus and minus just do not get them
confused as to which one you call the plus and minus.

The copper pads that have from 2 to 5 holes in them can often be used to
place the components and you will not need to use much wire to connect
the components. Just let the copper pads be the wires. I say copper
pads and tracings meaning anything copper on the board.
 
On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 12:51:36 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <52a2804f-88d2-4e01-b4d6-888ab2e6d26c@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

Yes, yo did solder on the correct side of the board this time. Most
often you try to use the copper traces to interconnect the components.

Are the copper traces those long sections of copper?




I referred to all the copper as copper tracing.

The long sections are often used for power circuits one being the
positive and the other being the negative on more complex circuits. Use
whichever is easiest for the plus and minus just do not get them
confused as to which one you call the plus and minus.

The copper pads that have from 2 to 5 holes in them can often be used to
place the components and you will not need to use much wire to connect
the components. Just let the copper pads be the wires. I say copper
pads and tracings meaning anything copper on the board.
Click to expand...

Okay. I replaced my soldering tip as it was smoking a lot and had to work to get
solder to melt.

I hope the Hakko type fits my iron. They look the same.

Andy
 
On 11/06/2019 10:59 pm, AK wrote:
I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.

I plan on covering the cadmium photocell with a piece of 3 inch PVC to mitigate the effects of sunlight "faking out" the circuit into thinking that the laser beam has not been interrupted.

The s8550 burned up.

More are on order.

Do you think the circuit will work with some changes?

Is there something I can test in the meantime?

The speaker will work down to 1.7 volts.

thanks,

Andy

I think I have frustrated some folks that are helping me.
Click to expand...

Do what Ralph said to make the circuit more protective for the transistor.
 
On Thursday, June 13, 2019 at 7:59:44 PM UTC-5, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
On 11/06/2019 10:59 pm, AK wrote:
I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.

I plan on covering the cadmium photocell with a piece of 3 inch PVC to mitigate the effects of sunlight "faking out" the circuit into thinking that the laser beam has not been interrupted.

The s8550 burned up.

More are on order.

Do you think the circuit will work with some changes?

Is there something I can test in the meantime?

The speaker will work down to 1.7 volts.

thanks,

Andy

I think I have frustrated some folks that are helping me.


Do what Ralph said to make the circuit more protective for the transistor.
Click to expand...

I did.

Andy
 
On 15/06/2019 11:30 am, AK wrote:
On Thursday, June 13, 2019 at 7:59:44 PM UTC-5, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
On 11/06/2019 10:59 pm, AK wrote:
I could use some feedback.

I think I soldered on the right side this time.

https://i.imgur.com/vTV4Qwv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SNdSgdJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gLIvVCQ.png

The circuit was working and I made adjustments to a pot.

The pot ranged from 0 -> about 4400 ohms.

I got the circuit already pre-made and it worked ok indoors.

I forgot to record the resistance before I started making adjustments.

I plan on covering the cadmium photocell with a piece of 3 inch PVC to mitigate the effects of sunlight "faking out" the circuit into thinking that the laser beam has not been interrupted.

The s8550 burned up.

More are on order.

Do you think the circuit will work with some changes?

Is there something I can test in the meantime?

The speaker will work down to 1.7 volts.

thanks,

Andy

I think I have frustrated some folks that are helping me.


Do what Ralph said to make the circuit more protective for the transistor.

I did.

Andy

Should cut down on magic smoke wastage :)
Click to expand...
 
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