EPROM success!

Guest
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric
 
On 4/1/2017 2:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR!

I always like a happy ending.


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Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

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On 2017/04/01 12:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric
Click to expand...

What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s,
2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As.

Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so
do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 15:15:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:

On 2017/04/01 12:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric


What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s,
2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As.

Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so
do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!

John :-#)#
Click to expand...
The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.
Thanks,
Eric
 
On 4/2/2017 12:28 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 15:15:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com
wrote:

On 2017/04/01 12:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric


What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s,
2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As.

Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so
do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!

John :-#)#
The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.
Thanks,
Eric
Click to expand...
Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser.
If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved,
you're gonna need one.
 
etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
>>> The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.

also be aware that one manufacturer (I think Texas Instruments) made a 2716
variant that needed 3 supply voltages instead of only +5V as all the other
variants. If I recall correctly, those where the TMS2716. So not all "2716"
are made equal.
I have several programmers that can handle the single supply 2716 and none
that can work with the TMS2716 without an adapter to add the other power
rails.

Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser.
If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved,
you're gonna need one.
I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving
the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours?
Click to expand...

sunlight never worked in decent times for me (and also the part gets really
hot most of the times). When I was really young and couldn't find a real UV
tube, I had good success with "black light" tubes with exposures of a few
hours or even regular fluorescent tubes with exposure of several hours.
Real UV tubes are easy to find nowadays but never ever stare or look at them
even for a few seconds. I recomend getting an EPROM eraser with a lock
sensor that can cut the power when you open the lid.
HTH
Frank IZ8DWF
 
On Sun, 02 Apr 2017 22:29:38 -0700, mike <ham789@netzero.net> wrote:

On 4/2/2017 12:28 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 15:15:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com
wrote:

On 2017/04/01 12:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric


What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s,
2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As.

Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so
do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!

John :-#)#
The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.
Thanks,
Eric

Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser.
If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved,
you're gonna need one.
Click to expand...
I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving
the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours?
Thanks,
Eric
 
On 2017/04/03 9:10 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On Sun, 02 Apr 2017 22:29:38 -0700, mike <ham789@netzero.net> wrote:

On 4/2/2017 12:28 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 15:15:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com
wrote:

On 2017/04/01 12:52 PM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very
carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then,
taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs.
Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy
an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the
machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Eric


What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s,
2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As.

Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so
do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner!

John :-#)#
The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.
Thanks,
Eric

Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser.
If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved,
you're gonna need one.
I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving
the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours?
Thanks,
Eric
Click to expand...

You need weeks in direct sunlight. And for the UV LED to work it would
have to have a wavelength to be shorter than 400 NM.

UV sterilizer would work. Any UV source that warns you to never look at
the bulb would likely work - the tube is not coated internally (clear
glass) for UV erasers so the raw UV does the work.

Obviously do not look at the UV source, if it will erase EPROMs it will
destroy your retinas.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On 2017/04/03 10:45 AM, frank wrote:
etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
The EPROMs are the 2716 so I had better check.

also be aware that one manufacturer (I think Texas Instruments) made a 2716
variant that needed 3 supply voltages instead of only +5V as all the other
variants. If I recall correctly, those where the TMS2716. So not all "2716"
are made equal.
I have several programmers that can handle the single supply 2716 and none
that can work with the TMS2716 without an adapter to add the other power
rails.
Click to expand...

It was indeed TI who made the trip[e-supply TMS2761 - this was supposed
to simplify upgrading from triple-supply 2708s. Didn't last long.

Then TI made the TMS2516 which was electrically the same as the Intel
2716. That was more successful.

Keep your eyes out for a UV EPROM eraser.
If you're ever gonna do anything with those bits you saved,
you're gonna need one.
I don't suppose a UV LED would work, would it? Or what about leaving
the EPROM in direcr sunlight for several hours?

sunlight never worked in decent times for me (and also the part gets really
hot most of the times). When I was really young and couldn't find a real UV
tube, I had good success with "black light" tubes with exposures of a few
hours or even regular fluorescent tubes with exposure of several hours.
Real UV tubes are easy to find nowadays but never ever stare or look at them
even for a few seconds. I recomend getting an EPROM eraser with a lock
sensor that can cut the power when you open the lid.
HTH
Frank IZ8DWF
Click to expand...

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
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