J
John Larkin
Guest
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
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A
amdx
Guest
On 9/8/2022 1:36 PM, John Larkin wrote:
                      Mikek
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
If you had more, you could have an adapter like this made.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghdnijbjcut1m5/John%27s%20Adapter.jpg?dl=0
                      Mikek
L
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
Guest
fredag den 9. september 2022 kl. 13.36.07 UTC+2 skrev amdx:
it would cost a few dollars to have a stack of new encoder pcbs made, so designing an making an adapter would be insane
On 9/8/2022 1:36 PM, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
If you had more, you could have an adapter like this made.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghdnijbjcut1m5/John%27s%20Adapter.jpg?dl=0
it would cost a few dollars to have a stack of new encoder pcbs made, so designing an making an adapter would be insane
A
amdx
Guest
On 9/9/2022 7:46 AM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
holes and miss the encoder solder connections.
 It looked very close to me. I wonder why he didn\'t do that?
                           Mikek
Maybe so, although I wondered if there was room to move the mountingfredag den 9. september 2022 kl. 13.36.07 UTC+2 skrev amdx:
On 9/8/2022 1:36 PM, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
If you had more, you could have an adapter like this made.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghdnijbjcut1m5/John%27s%20Adapter.jpg?dl=0
it would cost a few dollars to have a stack of new encoder pcbs made, so designing an making an adapter would be insane
holes and miss the encoder solder connections.
 It looked very close to me. I wonder why he didn\'t do that?
                           Mikek
S
server
Guest
On Fri, 9 Sep 2022 06:35:56 -0500, amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:
Not exactly. The offset is small.
We\'ll just rev the display board, no big deal. The encoder assembly is
used on other products.
The New Haven LCD assembly just went EOL and the replacement isn\'t
absolutely identical. Something about some type of glass not being
available. Hopefully the fix will be just code, not mechanical.
On 9/8/2022 1:36 PM, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
If you had more, you could have an adapter like this made.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghdnijbjcut1m5/John%27s%20Adapter.jpg?dl=0
Mikek
Not exactly. The offset is small.
We\'ll just rev the display board, no big deal. The encoder assembly is
used on other products.
The New Haven LCD assembly just went EOL and the replacement isn\'t
absolutely identical. Something about some type of glass not being
available. Hopefully the fix will be just code, not mechanical.
S
server
Guest
On Fri, 9 Sep 2022 07:55:37 -0500, amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:
My fix works OK. We only have to get 5 or 6 first article boxes to
work this year. It won\'t take long to spin the layout of the display
board, after we get everything working.
On 9/9/2022 7:46 AM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
fredag den 9. september 2022 kl. 13.36.07 UTC+2 skrev amdx:
On 9/8/2022 1:36 PM, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
If you had more, you could have an adapter like this made.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aghdnijbjcut1m5/John%27s%20Adapter.jpg?dl=0
it would cost a few dollars to have a stack of new encoder pcbs made, so designing an making an adapter would be insane
Maybe so, although I wondered if there was room to move the mounting
holes and miss the encoder solder connections.
It looked very close to me. I wonder why he didn\'t do that?
Mikek
My fix works OK. We only have to get 5 or 6 first article boxes to
work this year. It won\'t take long to spin the layout of the display
board, after we get everything working.
K
ke...@kjwdesigns.com
Guest
On Friday, 9 September 2022 at 07:57:47 UTC-7, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
....
Looks like you need some of these:
https://filedn.com/ll9tRKpmdINpKfgz3BfEcWS/SpecialBolts.jpeg
....
Mikek
My fix works OK. We only have to get 5 or 6 first article boxes to
work this year. It won\'t take long to spin the layout of the display
board, after we get everything working.
Looks like you need some of these:
https://filedn.com/ll9tRKpmdINpKfgz3BfEcWS/SpecialBolts.jpeg
J
Joe Gwinn
Guest
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
<jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
J
John Larkin
Guest
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 16:36:14 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:
I wouldn\'t want to use that sort of aggressive stuff on a PC board,
but it might work to pre-tin the ends of the standoffs.
Better would be gold plated brass, or even copper spacers, but we only
have 4 or 5 boards to hack so that\'s not worth finding.
Shockingly, nobody seems to make Z-shaped standoffs. I guess some
could be pressed from straight ones.
Those four standoffs are also the electrical connections to the
encoder, otherwise we could just epoxy everything.
wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
I wouldn\'t want to use that sort of aggressive stuff on a PC board,
but it might work to pre-tin the ends of the standoffs.
Better would be gold plated brass, or even copper spacers, but we only
have 4 or 5 boards to hack so that\'s not worth finding.
Shockingly, nobody seems to make Z-shaped standoffs. I guess some
could be pressed from straight ones.
Those four standoffs are also the electrical connections to the
encoder, otherwise we could just epoxy everything.
P
Pete
Guest
On 9/09/2022 4:36 am, John Larkin wrote:
Solder doesn\'t make a good mechanical joint - I suspect that the
sub-board will break off. Could you have elongated the holes in the PCB
with a file and used screws with a washer?
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Solder doesn\'t make a good mechanical joint - I suspect that the
sub-board will break off. Could you have elongated the holes in the PCB
with a file and used screws with a washer?
L
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
Guest
torsdag den 8. september 2022 kl. 22.52.12 UTC+2 skrev John Larkin:
looks like it would be possible to bend the legs of the encoder to align it
or mount the encoder in the hole in the pcb, a nut wouldn\'t protrude anymore than the buttons or the LCD
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 16:36:14 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joeg...@comcast.net
wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
I wouldn\'t want to use that sort of aggressive stuff on a PC board,
but it might work to pre-tin the ends of the standoffs.
Better would be gold plated brass, or even copper spacers, but we only
have 4 or 5 boards to hack so that\'s not worth finding.
Shockingly, nobody seems to make Z-shaped standoffs. I guess some
could be pressed from straight ones.
Those four standoffs are also the electrical connections to the
encoder, otherwise we could just epoxy everything.
looks like it would be possible to bend the legs of the encoder to align it
or mount the encoder in the hole in the pcb, a nut wouldn\'t protrude anymore than the buttons or the LCD
J
John Walliker
Guest
On Thursday, 8 September 2022 at 21:36:28 UTC+1, Joe Gwinn wrote:
Pure phosphoric acid is good for two reasons:
1) It works really well
2) It is easy to wash all the residues away with water.
John
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
Pure phosphoric acid is good for two reasons:
1) It works really well
2) It is easy to wash all the residues away with water.
John
J
Joe Gwinn
Guest
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 13:52:01 -0700, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
Only pre-tinning is suggested, although in the days before I knew
better, I built a Heathkit VTVM kit using plumbers solder and flux. I
still have it, and it still works. But been totally replaced by DMMs.
Silver epoxy?
Joe Gwinn
<jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 16:36:14 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net
wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
I wouldn\'t want to use that sort of aggressive stuff on a PC board,
but it might work to pre-tin the ends of the standoffs.
Only pre-tinning is suggested, although in the days before I knew
better, I built a Heathkit VTVM kit using plumbers solder and flux. I
still have it, and it still works. But been totally replaced by DMMs.
Better would be gold plated brass, or even copper spacers, but we only
have 4 or 5 boards to hack so that\'s not worth finding.
Shockingly, nobody seems to make Z-shaped standoffs. I guess some
could be pressed from straight ones.
Those four standoffs are also the electrical connections to the
encoder, otherwise we could just epoxy everything.
Silver epoxy?
Joe Gwinn
J
Joe Gwinn
Guest
On Thu, 8 Sep 2022 15:11:38 -0700 (PDT), John Walliker
<jrwalliker@gmail.com> wrote:
Never tried it, but probably should. But the usual makers of
soldering flux sell products based on phosphoric acid, so I was never
tempted to try my own formula.
Joe Gwinn
<jrwalliker@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, 8 September 2022 at 21:36:28 UTC+1, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2022 11:36:24 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Zinc plated brass can probably be soldered using ordinary plumbers
grease flux (for soldering copper pipe). Same works for the old
cadmium-plated hardware that was replaced by zinc. It\'s best to
remove the soldering residue, but not essential.
Failing that, the standard dodge is to use tinners flux (ZnCl in H2O)
to pre-tin the plated brass, wash corrosive residue off using hot
water, dry, then solder with ordinary 63-37 soft solder. This will
work on ordinary steel.
The next step up is flux intended for soft-soldering stainless steel;
this flux contains phosphoric acid.
Joe Gwinn
Pure phosphoric acid is good for two reasons:
1) It works really well
2) It is easy to wash all the residues away with water.
Never tried it, but probably should. But the usual makers of
soldering flux sell products based on phosphoric acid, so I was never
tempted to try my own formula.
Joe Gwinn
J
John Larkin
Guest
On Fri, 9 Sep 2022 07:36:40 +1000, Pete <pjetson@yahoo.com> wrote:
People, like Paul Revere, soldered handles onto pewter teapots for
centuries.
Solder is quite strong. A lot of force on the spinner knob would
likely rip the pads off the board before the solder broke. It will be
OK, let us do development, until we rev the board.
The spacers and holes on the display board are electrically active,
the encoder signals, and it\'s a multilayer board, so elongating might
not work well.
On 9/09/2022 4:36 am, John Larkin wrote:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xltjlvd5dsiw1fk/AADjiFh5OHcfTap3xo3VKIcla?dl=0
Well, mistakes happen. Good mistakes can be hacked.
Solder doesn\'t make a good mechanical joint - I suspect that the
sub-board will break off. Could you have elongated the holes in the PCB
with a file and used screws with a washer?
People, like Paul Revere, soldered handles onto pewter teapots for
centuries.
Solder is quite strong. A lot of force on the spinner knob would
likely rip the pads off the board before the solder broke. It will be
OK, let us do development, until we rev the board.
The spacers and holes on the display board are electrically active,
the encoder signals, and it\'s a multilayer board, so elongating might
not work well.