Eminence speaker issue

[Phil Allison]

Hi,

like myself, some of you regularly do repairs to guitar amps - right ?

So you must have come across speakers fitted to combo amps from Fender and Peavey ( maybe others too) that have detached terminal blocks.

I just fixed *both* speakers in a Peavey " Clasic 50 " where the terminal blocks were hanging loose because both rivets had popped their tops.

The rivets are made of Aluminium with a flat top and hollow point inside the frame - the tops simply part company with the shaft of the rivet at about 10 years age.

My fix is to trim the rivets flush with nippers, punch them out of the frame and replace with 3.5mm bolts, nuts, star and plain washers and a drop of super glue. The bolt is fed from the inside with the plain washer on the outside.

Never had to do such a crazy thing before with any speaker - owners never seem to notice what has happened and find my story hard to believe.

Comments?



.... Phil

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <98a0892b-f4ac-486f-b820-e057298f51b2@googlegroups.com>,
pallison49@gmail.com says...

Hi,

like myself, some of you regularly do repairs to guitar amps - right ?

So you must have come across speakers fitted to combo amps from Fender and Peavey ( maybe others too) that have detached terminal blocks.

I just fixed *both* speakers in a Peavey " Clasic 50 " where the terminal blocks were hanging loose because both rivets had popped their tops.

The rivets are made of Aluminium with a flat top and hollow point inside the frame - the tops simply part company with the shaft of the rivet at about 10 years age.

My fix is to trim the rivets flush with nippers, punch them out of the frame and replace with 3.5mm bolts, nuts, star and plain washers and a drop of super glue. The bolt is fed from the inside with the plain washer on the outside.

Never had to do such a crazy thing before with any speaker - owners never seem to notice what has happened and find my story hard to believe.

Comments?



... Phil

I generally replace them with a fresh through hole rivet and coated
with panama red, to insure protective coating and vibration free to
reduce fatigue.

Nothing like having loose hardware around a speaker.

Jamie

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
news:98a0892b-f4ac-486f-b820-e057298f51b2@googlegroups.com...


Hi,

like myself, some of you regularly do repairs to guitar amps - right ?

So you must have come across speakers fitted to combo amps from Fender and
Peavey ( maybe others too) that have detached terminal blocks.

I just fixed *both* speakers in a Peavey " Clasic 50 " where the terminal
blocks were hanging loose because both rivets had popped their tops.

The rivets are made of Aluminium with a flat top and hollow point inside the
frame - the tops simply part company with the shaft of the rivet at about
10 years age.

My fix is to trim the rivets flush with nippers, punch them out of the frame
and replace with 3.5mm bolts, nuts, star and plain washers and a drop of
super glue. The bolt is fed from the inside with the plain washer on the
outside.

Never had to do such a crazy thing before with any speaker - owners never
seem to notice what has happened and find my story hard to believe.

Comments?



.... Phil




I've had a few of those. Causes very odd symptoms as the braids dance
about and short on the speaker chassis.


I find 3.5mm bolts hard to come by in the UK so I use my stock of 3mm bolts
instead.
And these days I use Nylon locknuts rather than mess about with shakeproof
washers / adhesives etc.



Gareth.

 

[Phil Allison]

Gareth Magennis wrote:

I find 3.5mm bolts hard to come by in the UK so I use my stock of 3mm bolts
instead.

** Got mine from Farnell, a few years back.

Perfect fit in the rivet holes.

And these days I use Nylon locknuts rather than mess about with shakeproof
washers / adhesives etc.

** The bolt and the terminal block will easily rotate in the hole if no star washers or super glue is used.


.... Phil

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
news:082758c8-0f8d-4cfb-9d6c-c6d31dcfa2d7@googlegroups.com...

Gareth Magennis wrote:

I find 3.5mm bolts hard to come by in the UK so I use my stock of 3mm
bolts
instead.

** Got mine from Farnell, a few years back.

Perfect fit in the rivet holes.

And these days I use Nylon locknuts rather than mess about with shakeproof
washers / adhesives etc.

** The bolt and the terminal block will easily rotate in the hole if no star
washers or super glue is used.


.... Phil




I have found Nylon locknuts to be invaluable in certain difficult
situations.

Because they have substantially more height than a hex nut, they are much
more easily held in a box spanner, or manipyulated with a finger until the
threads engage properly.
Sometimes this is the only way you can fit a nut onto a bolt where access to
the nut is almost impossible, and fitting a shakeproof washer and hex nut
more impossible than impossible.

In the past I have managed to stick them on the end of a very long philips
screwdriver I have magnetised with a speaker magnet, and been able to
position it so I could get the bolt to bite the threads.
You can then wedge the locknut flats against the chassis using the
screwdriver and tighten the fixing.
(Think power amp front panel, trying to secure the bottom fixings via the
top of the amp chassis)




Gareth.