Driver to drive?

Jasen Betts · Feb 24, 2017

On 2017-02-22, tabbypurr@gmail.com <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote:

I know you're trolling, but I'm responding anyway.

If Linux is to do this it needs something it doesn't have today. I suggest a standard each distro can be checked against. This would include things like - and these are issues I've bumped into with popular distros -
- file manager doesn't miss files when copying
- full support for NTFS & FAT32

Why? NTFS is only of historical interest.

> - basic UI functions such as control c, control v etc. work in all apps

you want to break existing user intefaces to use a "standard" that was
invented years after the applications were written?

- at least 3 years full support, followed by the software repository
remaining available for at least 10 years.

If you want a perpetual repo download debian. it's only a few hundered gigabytes.

> - all bundled software to be stable releases. Repository can contain beta but it must be clearly marked.

Sounds like debian.

> - necessary codecs included

necessary for what? do you mean firmware?

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Jasen Betts · Feb 24, 2017

On 2017-02-23, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

I found what is wrong. The Nvidia driver is throwing error 43 and is
being disabled. So I am running with just the Intel driver. I'm not
sure if that is for a video on the Northbridge chip or if it is for a
default minimum functionality required in whoever's video chip is on the
board. In any event, the video runs much slower this way.

intel video is in the CPU package.

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Martin Brown · Feb 24, 2017

On 23/02/2017 18:53, rickman wrote:

On 2/23/2017 3:36 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/02/2017 02:07, rickman wrote:

I found what is wrong. The Nvidia driver is throwing error 43 and is
being disabled. So I am running with just the Intel driver. I'm not
sure if that is for a video on the Northbridge chip or if it is for a
default minimum functionality required in whoever's video chip is on the
board. In any event, the video runs much slower this way.

You need to find the exact Nvideo driver for the chipset and model
customisations done to your particular portable - the generic Nvideo
chipset driver will almost certainly baulk about loading on a laptop or
if it does load will have serious operational problems.

I'm not clear on what you think has been "customized" for this laptop.
Are you suggesting the chip is not the same chip other models of
computers use? Or are you saying there are special drivers for the rest
of the board, so the graphics driver has to match?

I can't tell you for certain what they will have done but it is along
the lines of power saving tricks to only use graphics acceleration when
it is actually necessary to extend laptop battery life. The end result
is that the stock hardware driver from the graphics chip maker almost
invariably will not work correctly on a bespoke laptop graphics
implementation. How it manifests is either BSOD or refusing to load.

But don't take my word for it - here is the relevant Intel page:

http://www.intel.co.uk/content/www/uk/en/support/topics/oems.html

The basic Intel driver for an i3770 can manage WI 6.5 & 6.5 so what CPU
does your system have? Portable CPUs are less capable but I'd be
surprised if it was as bad as 2.0 unless it has gone back to the most
basic memory mapped bit bashing driver version with no hardware assist.

"Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600" is the only driver installed and working.

The HD graphics 4600 should be a lot more capable than that.
What CPU and clock speed are you running?

Try running GPU-Z and/or a couple of proper graphics benchmarks and see
what they reveal? GeekBench and PassMarks performance test for instance.

It may be that you need to disable the non-functioning NVidia graphics
card in the bios to allow the Intel driver to run flat out or something.

I looked for a driver on the Lenovo site but nothing there seems to work
as it should starting with all the diagnostic tools, the ID tools and
the driver. Nothing on the Lenovo web site alters my opinion that the
Lenovo name is pure crap!

Lenovo portables are the old IBM brand cheapened down and plasticised.
Not the greatest but reasonably competent.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

rickman · Feb 24, 2017

On 2/24/2017 4:58 AM, Martin Brown wrote:

On 23/02/2017 18:53, rickman wrote:
On 2/23/2017 3:36 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 23/02/2017 02:07, rickman wrote:

I found what is wrong. The Nvidia driver is throwing error 43 and is
being disabled. So I am running with just the Intel driver. I'm not
sure if that is for a video on the Northbridge chip or if it is for a
default minimum functionality required in whoever's video chip is on
the
board. In any event, the video runs much slower this way.

You need to find the exact Nvideo driver for the chipset and model
customisations done to your particular portable - the generic Nvideo
chipset driver will almost certainly baulk about loading on a laptop or
if it does load will have serious operational problems.

I'm not clear on what you think has been "customized" for this laptop.
Are you suggesting the chip is not the same chip other models of
computers use? Or are you saying there are special drivers for the rest
of the board, so the graphics driver has to match?

I can't tell you for certain what they will have done but it is along
the lines of power saving tricks to only use graphics acceleration when
it is actually necessary to extend laptop battery life. The end result
is that the stock hardware driver from the graphics chip maker almost
invariably will not work correctly on a bespoke laptop graphics
implementation. How it manifests is either BSOD or refusing to load.

But don't take my word for it - here is the relevant Intel page:

http://www.intel.co.uk/content/www/uk/en/support/topics/oems.html

That page doesn't say exactly what you said. It does indicate that the
laptop vendor may make customized versions of the drivers, but it
doesn''t say anything about using a non-customized driver causing
problems. But I will take your word for it, but that doesn't get me any
closer to having a driver.

The basic Intel driver for an i3770 can manage WI 6.5 & 6.5 so what CPU
does your system have? Portable CPUs are less capable but I'd be
surprised if it was as bad as 2.0 unless it has gone back to the most
basic memory mapped bit bashing driver version with no hardware assist.

"Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600" is the only driver installed and working.

The HD graphics 4600 should be a lot more capable than that.
What CPU and clock speed are you running?

Try running GPU-Z and/or a couple of proper graphics benchmarks and see
what they reveal? GeekBench and PassMarks performance test for instance.

It may be that you need to disable the non-functioning NVidia graphics
card in the bios to allow the Intel driver to run flat out or something.

I don't know what to tell you. I just know what I have and how it is
working.

I looked for a driver on the Lenovo site but nothing there seems to work
as it should starting with all the diagnostic tools, the ID tools and
the driver. Nothing on the Lenovo web site alters my opinion that the
Lenovo name is pure crap!

Lenovo portables are the old IBM brand cheapened down and plasticised.
Not the greatest but reasonably competent.

Again, I can only relate my experience. This machine has had any number
of problem, many of them would have made a sane person throw the machine
in the trash and buy a new one. I tend to be a bit compulsive about
things like this but I'm nearing the end of my rope. Some of the
problems are things that seem to be a universal trend like the no-button
touchpad and the crappy keyboard. If I could find a better laptop that
I knew fixed all the ills of this piece of crap I would buy it. One
nice thing about Costco is that you can return laptops. I may well be
buying a new one soon.

--

Rick C

Martin Brown · Feb 24, 2017

On 24/02/2017 09:18, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2017-02-23, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

I found what is wrong. The Nvidia driver is throwing error 43 and is
being disabled. So I am running with just the Intel driver. I'm not
sure if that is for a video on the Northbridge chip or if it is for a
default minimum functionality required in whoever's video chip is on the
board. In any event, the video runs much slower this way.

intel video is in the CPU package.

And surprisingly good if you only want 2D and don't care about gaming.
(at least it should be if the driver is working properly)

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Jim Thompson · Feb 24, 2017

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 14:18:59 +0800, BM2335 <BM265@DMM.com.au> wrote:

On 23-Feb-17 7:39 PM, jrwalliker@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, 23 February 2017 05:24:57 UTC, BM2335 wrote:
On 23-Feb-17 12:24 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
OT: winmail.dat

Seems we discussed this a few years ago, and I can't remember the
solution...

I'm getting E-mail from a client with attachments "winmail.dat"

How do I view them?

...Jim Thompson

What email client?

There is a plug in for Thunderbird that opens them. I think its called
"lookout".

The solution is to get the sender to re-send the email without
using rich text format (RTF). There is nothing that can be done
in Eudora to solve the problem. (I also still use Eudora.)

As Jim probably has me filtered because I use google groups,

Whitelisted, Thanks!

would somebody please be kind enough to forward this to him.

John

.

Jim Thompson · Feb 24, 2017

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 01:22:42 -0500, "Tom Del Rosso"
<fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
OT: winmail.dat

Seems we discussed this a few years ago, and I can't remember the
solution...

I'm getting E-mail from a client with attachments "winmail.dat"

How do I view them?

Fentun at www.fentun.com

It was written in the 90's but it works and doesn't need installation.

Jeff Liebermann · Feb 25, 2017

On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 21:24:58 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: winmail.dat
How do I view them?

There's an app for that:
<http://www.eolsoft.com/freeware/winmail_opener/>
<http://www.winmail-dat.com>

Or read it online (if you don't care about who's reading your email
attachments):
<http://www.winmail-dat.com/online.php>
<http://www.winmaildat.com>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

gregz · Feb 25, 2017

<tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, 25 February 2017 03:08:33 UTC, olds...@tubes.com wrote:
I have a small amplifier (about 15W per channel), that I use for my
computer to listen to music. I have two speakers connected to it, which
are bookshelf sized speakers from an old stereo. It works well, but
lacks bass. I just got a sub-woofer which came from some sort of home
theater system. I want to connect this to what I already have.

However, there is only ONE sub-woofer. How can I get both channels to
work in this sub-woofer without combineing the channels to mono? Maybe I
need a separate amplifier for this sub-woofer, which I could probably
do, but then I have to feed the input of that amp with the signal from
both channels.

I see commercial systems which are stereo, which only have one
sub-woofer, so there has to be some means to do this.

Having its own separate amp channel is the best bet. If you're determined
to use it without, it can be run via a large air cored inductor to each
output channel. But you really won't get as good a result, being unable
to control the low end amplitude separately.

NT

You could do that just use one of the channels since bass is mono, but it
will load down that channel impedance even with inductor.

Greg

Boris Mohar · Feb 25, 2017

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:07:50 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I have a small amplifier (about 15W per channel), that I use for my
computer to listen to music. I have two speakers connected to it, which
are bookshelf sized speakers from an old stereo. It works well, but
lacks bass. I just got a sub-woofer which came from some sort of home
theater system. I want to connect this to what I already have.

However, there is only ONE sub-woofer. How can I get both channels to
work in this sub-woofer without combineing the channels to mono? Maybe I
need a separate amplifier for this sub-woofer, which I could probably
do, but then I have to feed the input of that amp with the signal from
both channels.

I see commercial systems which are stereo, which only have one
sub-woofer, so there has to be some means to do this.

http://www.brainfartz.com/images/Stereo%20Stuff/VTA%20ST-120/st120-build/dynaco-center-channel.jpg

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

rickman · Feb 26, 2017

On 2/21/2017 11:47 PM, rickman wrote:

I've been fighting computer problems the last few days. My laptop has a
problem where it periodically blue screens mostly with a message
relating to IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL. Sometimes it gets in a mode where
it won't even boot up without crashing and it can take many tries to get
it to boot. Googling has never come up with much in the way of useful
info. I did find a program that would read the "mini-dump" file and the
error was in the kernal, so nothing useful there. Nearly all the
references I did find referred to it relating to a driver problem. So
why not update some of the drivers?

So I go to the Lenovo site and find one of those cluster f***s that
depend on searches to get you materials. Lots of info is just not
there, like the actual instructions on installing drivers. They give
you lots of versions of the same stuff telling you how to run programs
to identify your system which don't work in safe mode. But nothing on
how to install the driver once you get it.

I was able to update the wireless driver automatically through device
manager. But the video driver wouldn't update. I found the right
driver at Nvidia and set it to installing... It's been a half an hour
and it's still not done. Task manager shows literally no activity in
the CPU, disk and network. Obviously it is hung. No cancel button. I
click the red X in the corner and it pops up an intimidating message
saying I can't kill the task as it could make my system unstable... like
I have much to lose.

I am so over this Lenovo piece of crap! I actually bought a new
computer at Costco before the holidays, but the Lenovo ran fairly well
so I returned the new one unopened. Two days later the Lenovo crap
started crashing on startup again. This time it is really bad. If I
can get out of this installation without rendering the computer useless,
I'm going to clone the drive first, then wipe it clean and reinstall
from scratch. It will take weeks to get everything reinstalled, but I
don't see how I have much choice.

This is getting seriously tedious. At least the crashing seems to have
been cured. I had found drivers at NVIDIA which do not work and the
system shuts them down. So I plugged around on the backup disk and
found the original NVIDIA drivers. So I install them and it errors
saying it won't replace a newer or the same revision copy of "PhysX
System Software". So I delete that using the Programs and Features tool
along with the NVIDIA driver which seems to keep installing itself even
though I remove it and even delete it. I'm not talking about an old
copy, this is the nearly brand new copy I downloaded a while back.

Anyway, after deleting the NVIDIA driver and the "PhysX System Software"
which was too new to be installed over, I tried reinstalling. Now it
says it can't do the installation because there is *NO* "PhysX System
Software" present!!!

--

Rick C

Tom Del Rosso · Feb 26, 2017

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 01:22:42 -0500, "Tom Del Rosso"
fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:
OT: winmail.dat

Seems we discussed this a few years ago, and I can't remember the
solution...

I'm getting E-mail from a client with attachments "winmail.dat"

How do I view them?

Fentun at www.fentun.com

It was written in the 90's but it works and doesn't need
installation.

Does it actually do Win7> The website implies NO, but the author's
E-mail bounces.

I haven't needed to use it under 7, but it is a 32 bit app.

Feb 26, 2017

On Thursday, 21 February 2002 18:57:32 UTC, Frank Bemelman wrote:

Patrik Johansson <patrik@patadata.net> schreef in berichtnieuws
6b5955c6.0202210951.55bce44b@posting.google.com...
I would like to calculate the force that a electro magnet is able to
lift. Or rather to know the formula for designing a magnet to lift a
certain weight. Is the "push-force" equal the "lift-force"??

For example:
If I would like the magnet to be able to lift 10kg using 12V. How
would that formula look like??

10 Kg, that magnet will have the size of a bucket, if you want one
with a plunger and - let's say 5 cm of pulling distance. Current at
12V about 65 amps.

Well, these are just my gut feelings about it. Any formula that
would give you smaller solenoid, I would not trust until proven

Perhaps you can search the web for manufacturers of electromagnets
and solenoids. Browsing through their catalogs may give you an
idea of what is possible and what not.

--
Thanks,
Frank Bemelman
(remove 'x' & .invalid when sending email)

Hi frank, could you explain how you would work this out? I have been tasked with finding a power rating and material size for lifting 1.8 tonnes using an iron electromagnet.
Thanks

Feb 26, 2017

On Sunday, 26 February 2017 21:00:44 UTC, olds...@tubes.com wrote:

But this brings another issue. Is there any way to get half or each
channel at the input to the main amp? Can I just put a capacitor from
each input line to make a center channel, or will the two caps cause the
channels to combine into one? Or maybe I also need a resistor, but of
what ohms?

-OR- is there some sort of transformer that will work? (Two windings on
the primary, one on the secondary) ???

Just use 2 resistors of apx the sub amp's input impedance.

NT

whit3rd · Feb 26, 2017

On Sunday, February 26, 2017 at 1:34:10 PM UTC-8, georgethom...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi frank, could you explain how you would work this out? I have been tasked with finding a power rating and material size for lifting 1.8 tonnes using an iron electromagnet.

It's impossible to calculate without knowing the nature of the payload. If it's rock,
and not magnetic. If it's steel, with a flat surface. If it's scrap iron, with maybe
10 lbs of iron within the first centimeter distance from the magnet's poles.

If this is for a crane operation, be aware that magnetic lifting probably is NOT
safe for a populated worksite because it's not a calculable problem situation.

Feb 27, 2017

On Sunday, 26 February 2017 23:55:05 UTC, rickman wrote:

On 2/26/2017 3:59 PM, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

But this brings another issue. Is there any way to get half or each
channel at the input to the main amp? Can I just put a capacitor from
each input line to make a center channel, or will the two caps cause the
channels to combine into one? Or maybe I also need a resistor, but of
what ohms?

-OR- is there some sort of transformer that will work? (Two windings on
the primary, one on the secondary) ???

The capacitor or transformer will still connect the two signals. The
easy way to do this is to buy a stereo amp and use both inputs. Then
push the MONO button and use one output for your subwoofer.

Mad. Sorry, it is.

NT

Feb 27, 2017

On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 07:43:21 -0500, Boris Mohar
<borism_void_@sympatico.ca> wrote:

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:07:50 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I have a small amplifier (about 15W per channel), that I use for my
computer to listen to music. I have two speakers connected to it, which
are bookshelf sized speakers from an old stereo. It works well, but
lacks bass. I just got a sub-woofer which came from some sort of home
theater system. I want to connect this to what I already have.

However, there is only ONE sub-woofer. How can I get both channels to
work in this sub-woofer without combineing the channels to mono? Maybe I
need a separate amplifier for this sub-woofer, which I could probably
do, but then I have to feed the input of that amp with the signal from
both channels.

I see commercial systems which are stereo, which only have one
sub-woofer, so there has to be some means to do this.

http://www.brainfartz.com/images/Stereo%20Stuff/VTA%20ST-120/st120-build/dynaco-center-channel.jpg

Thats a very bizarre way of connecting speakers. I question whether
there will still be stereo sound, or just some sort of mono????

I actually think I am going to go about this in a different manner. The
plan is to use a separate amplifier for the sub-woofer. Those small amp
modules can be gotten on ebay for $5 or less. That way I will get full
wattage on the main speakers and can power the sub-woofer separately.

But this brings another issue. Is there any way to get half or each
channel at the input to the main amp? Can I just put a capacitor from
each input line to make a center channel, or will the two caps cause the
channels to combine into one? Or maybe I also need a resistor, but of
what ohms?

-OR- is there some sort of transformer that will work? (Two windings on
the primary, one on the secondary) ???

rickman · Feb 27, 2017

On 2/26/2017 3:59 PM, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 07:43:21 -0500, Boris Mohar
borism_void_@sympatico.ca> wrote:

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:07:50 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I have a small amplifier (about 15W per channel), that I use for my
computer to listen to music. I have two speakers connected to it, which
are bookshelf sized speakers from an old stereo. It works well, but
lacks bass. I just got a sub-woofer which came from some sort of home
theater system. I want to connect this to what I already have.

However, there is only ONE sub-woofer. How can I get both channels to
work in this sub-woofer without combineing the channels to mono? Maybe I
need a separate amplifier for this sub-woofer, which I could probably
do, but then I have to feed the input of that amp with the signal from
both channels.

I see commercial systems which are stereo, which only have one
sub-woofer, so there has to be some means to do this.

http://www.brainfartz.com/images/Stereo%20Stuff/VTA%20ST-120/st120-build/dynaco-center-channel.jpg

Thats a very bizarre way of connecting speakers. I question whether
there will still be stereo sound, or just some sort of mono????

I actually think I am going to go about this in a different manner. The
plan is to use a separate amplifier for the sub-woofer. Those small amp
modules can be gotten on ebay for $5 or less. That way I will get full
wattage on the main speakers and can power the sub-woofer separately.

But this brings another issue. Is there any way to get half or each
channel at the input to the main amp? Can I just put a capacitor from
each input line to make a center channel, or will the two caps cause the
channels to combine into one? Or maybe I also need a resistor, but of
what ohms?

-OR- is there some sort of transformer that will work? (Two windings on
the primary, one on the secondary) ???

The capacitor or transformer will still connect the two signals. The
easy way to do this is to buy a stereo amp and use both inputs. Then
push the MONO button and use one output for your subwoofer.

--

Rick C

Jasen Betts · Feb 27, 2017

On 2017-02-26, georgethomasmarriott@gmail.com <georgethomasmarriott@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, 21 February 2002 18:57:32 UTC, Frank Bemelman wrote:
Patrik Johansson <patrik@patadata.net> schreef in berichtnieuws
6b5955c6.0202210951.55bce44b@posting.google.com...
I would like to calculate the force that a electro magnet is able to
lift. Or rather to know the formula for designing a magnet to lift a
certain weight. Is the "push-force" equal the "lift-force"??

For example:
If I would like the magnet to be able to lift 10kg using 12V. How
would that formula look like??

10 Kg, that magnet will have the size of a bucket, if you want one
with a plunger and - let's say 5 cm of pulling distance. Current at
12V about 65 amps.

Well, these are just my gut feelings about it. Any formula that
would give you smaller solenoid, I would not trust until proven

Perhaps you can search the web for manufacturers of electromagnets
and solenoids. Browsing through their catalogs may give you an
idea of what is possible and what not.

--
Thanks,
Frank Bemelman
(remove 'x' & .invalid when sending email)

Hi frank, could you explain how you would work this out? I have been tasked with finding a power rating and material size for lifting 1.8 tonnes using an iron electromagnet.
Thanks

"1000kg" magnetic locks (to hold doors shut) take about 24W to run

What shape is your iron in?

Is the elecromagnet lifting the iron or is it starting in contact with
the iron and a mechanism is lifting the electromagnet?

BTW this Heinekin advert is totally fake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LU6nmwbbTM

--
This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

Jasen Betts · Feb 27, 2017

On 2017-02-26, oldschool@tubes.com <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote:

On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 07:43:21 -0500, Boris Mohar
borism_void_@sympatico.ca> wrote:

On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:07:50 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I have a small amplifier (about 15W per channel), that I use for my
computer to listen to music. I have two speakers connected to it, which
are bookshelf sized speakers from an old stereo. It works well, but
lacks bass. I just got a sub-woofer which came from some sort of home
theater system. I want to connect this to what I already have.

However, there is only ONE sub-woofer. How can I get both channels to
work in this sub-woofer without combineing the channels to mono? Maybe I
need a separate amplifier for this sub-woofer, which I could probably
do, but then I have to feed the input of that amp with the signal from
both channels.

I see commercial systems which are stereo, which only have one
sub-woofer, so there has to be some means to do this.

http://www.brainfartz.com/images/Stereo%20Stuff/VTA%20ST-120/st120-build/dynaco-center-channel.jpg

Thats a very bizarre way of connecting speakers. I question whether
there will still be stereo sound, or just some sort of mono????

If anything this will ephasise the difference between left and right.
maybe stick 100uF parallel with the sub-woofer

I actually think I am going to go about this in a different manner. The
plan is to use a separate amplifier for the sub-woofer. Those small amp
modules can be gotten on ebay for $5 or less. That way I will get full
wattage on the main speakers and can power the sub-woofer separately.

yeah, and put the "sound card" into a mode that provides a sub-bass
output.

--
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