Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

[micky]

I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will disappear
when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

 

Micky:

If it is a know, then maximum attenuation would be
fully counter-clockwise. Minimum attenuation would
be fully clockwise.


In the case of an audio amp attenuator knob, at
12 o'clock would be some attenuation and a moderate
input voltage to achieve a specific desired volume
level. Fully clockwise would mean zero attenuation,
requiring minimal input signal voltage to achieve that
same desired volume level. The latter circumstance
ensures that no clipping occurs at the output stage
of the signal source(assuming that signal wasn't
already clipped or limited during production or from
a prior stage).

 

[Dave M]

If, when you say "different ends of its rotation", you mean that it is a
variable attenuator, then
the Min attenuation spec is the lowest attenuation setting, meaning that
maximum signal gets through. Max attenuation means that is the highest
level of attenuation, with the least amount of signal getting through.
To reduce the signal level more, rotate the setting toward the Max end.

Dave M


micky wrote:

I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each
side.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will
disappear when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <a3c01btt8jdvvcvg4hv74aou74ul7bb1sq@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@bigfoot.com says...

I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will disappear
when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

Attenuation is reduction, Max Att would be max reduction in signal
gain!

At least that is how I read it, who knows, it was radio shaft
product.

Jamie

 

[Tom Miller]

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:a3c01btt8jdvvcvg4hv74aou74ul7bb1sq@4ax.com...

I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will disappear
when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

With one end open measure the DC resistance of the other end. Once at max
and once at min. Report the values here.

 

[micky]

In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 3 Oct 2015 21:28:10 -0400, "Tom
Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net> wrote:

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:a3c01btt8jdvvcvg4hv74aou74ul7bb1sq@4ax.com...
I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will disappear
when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

With one end open measure the DC resistance of the other end. Once at max
and once at min. Report the values here.

good idea. especally since the vote was 2 to 1 so far.

It will take a while to get back to you all.

Thanks everyone.

 

[micky]

In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 3 Oct 2015 21:28:10 -0400, "Tom
Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net> wrote:

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:a3c01btt8jdvvcvg4hv74aou74ul7bb1sq@4ax.com...
I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.

BTW, its called a TV and VCR Signal Attenuator.

It also says Min and Max and different ends of its rotation.

Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

Testing doesn't seem to show this, because the tv signal will disappear
when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.

With one end open measure the DC resistance of the other end. Once at max
and once at min. Report the values here.

Resistance ranged from near zero CCW (it probably was zero) and about
510 ohms full CW. Half way in the middle, the resistance was somewhat
more than half 510.

So since min was on the left and max on the right, it meant max
attentuation.

I should have figured this out myself, Tom. Who knows why I didn't.

In the last 36 hours, to fix my telephone, I replaced the phone, the
cord, the DSL filter, disconnected the main wire from the rest of the
house, and fiddled with the NID outside. It seems to have been the
one-piece, all-plastic, Y-connector for the phone line. Even though
I'm looking at it and it looks fine, and I'd used it for years. But
it's the only thing I changed when the phone started working again. (And
the DSL had been working all along.)

Thanks everyone.

 

[micky]

In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 06 Oct 2015 14:57:24 -0400, micky
<NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:

In the last 36 hours, to fix my telephone, I replaced the phone, the
cord, the DSL filter, disconnected the main wire from the rest of the
house, and fiddled with the NID outside. It seems to have been the
one-piece, all-plastic, Y-connector for the phone line. Even though
I'm looking at it and it looks fine, and I'd used it for years.

I spoke too soon. Replacing that seems to have enabled me to place
phone calls.

But still when people call me, it barely chirps and if I don't answer in
what would be two rings, it gives them a busy signal.

I've replaced everything that distinguishes the phone line from the DSL
line.


Could the DSL modem be messing up the phone, even though the phone
signal does not really go through the modem? That is, the phone line
input and the phone output are both in the same modular Y-connector,
which plugs into the DSL modem.

I have some moderately heavy phone wire, 2 of the 4 conductors, going
straight from the two scews in the NID up the front of the house, to the
back of a modular wall plate, to a short modular cord, to one of the two
"outputs" of a modular Y-connector. The "input" is plugged into the DSL
modem, and the other output goes to the telephone, via a DSL filter, a
cord, and a phone. I've exchanged the last 3 things and the Y
connector. What's left to replace?

But
it's the only thing I changed when the phone started working again. (And
the DSL had been working all along.)