Do Fender use threadlock on cab screws?

[N_Cook]

One screw holding the back cover to the amp chassis would only come away
by shearing. Squashed out the hank bush and remnant of screw with large
G-cramp.
Overlay has date 3508 and PbF sign , so early Fender PbF. But I've not
even got to the solder side of the board yet. No bushing around the pot
spindles so they flop around in the overlarge chassis holes, and one pot
broken, paxolin section cracked into 4 sections. One mains fuse pcb yoke
is skew. That white "lettraset" lettering on the front panel is wearing
off , as usual. I have to take the word from the owner (from new) that
its a Junior. 5 or 6 moves with the amp back-face down, on the carpeted
boot of a car, was enough to remove the lettering off that plate. IIRC
at one time in the UK, that sort of H&S info, mains voltage, fuse rating
etc had to be on an etched plate.

 

[N_Cook]

So a neat and easy retro-fit fudge for what Fender should have
engineered up properly in the first place.
2mm of play around the spindles of the 6 pots and 2mm of play under the
knobs. As no pot bush+nuts to chassis, anyone leaning on the knobs will
break the pcb PbF solder or break the paxolin of the pot, plus the knobs
flopping around, unprofessionally, in normal use.
Some 7.9mm diameter plastic tube of .7mm wall cut to 10mm lengths, slid
over each spindle , thru the chassis holes, takes up the flopping about.
A 19mm fibre washer,2mm thick, and a normal 15.5mm fibre washer as used
on 1/4 in sockets, per pot . Insert the small washer in the knob recess
and clamp the larger one , under the knob and hot melt the 2 washers
together, in situ, without gluing to the knob. So neatly located padding
under each knob that can turn within the knob if needed.
Knob not touching the chassis or rubbing the silly silk-screen
non-permanent legends.
Just have to hope these bits don't rattle around in use.