Dim electronic display on Frigidaire gas range

T

Trevor

Guest
Hi! I have a Frigigaire Gallery gas range, model FGF378WCCB. It has an
electronic display panel on the back splash panel for time and oven
settings, which are shown in pale turquoise digits. These digits (an
electroluminescent display?) are becoming very dim and hard to read.
Is this likely to be just a resistor somewhere which has gone high in
value, or do these displays wear out? Should I be able to replace just
the dispay digits, or should I plan on replacing the entire control
assembly? Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Trevor
 
The cause is usually the display gets weak. The various drive components and
its supply may also be weak from age. If you can find the display itself,
you can replace it, but there may be other faults from wear.

The manufacture only sells the board complete. They do not normally do
component level servicing on these boards due to the time and cost.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
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WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
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"Trevor" <tglave@bcit.ca> wrote in message
news:f9052cf7.0401161201.678573cf@posting.google.com...
Hi! I have a Frigigaire Gallery gas range, model FGF378WCCB. It has an
electronic display panel on the back splash panel for time and oven
settings, which are shown in pale turquoise digits. These digits (an
electroluminescent display?) are becoming very dim and hard to read.
Is this likely to be just a resistor somewhere which has gone high in
value, or do these displays wear out? Should I be able to replace just
the dispay digits, or should I plan on replacing the entire control
assembly? Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Trevor
 
I had the exact same thing happen on my Jennaire range, controller/display
made by Robert Shaw (most are). Over time it became dimmer and dimmer. At
first I suspected a leaky vacuum fluorescent display, but it didn't make
sense as it was only a year & a half old.

I whipped out the scope and started probing around the power supply. I
determined that this board had a simple voltage doubler powered off the 13
VAC line; it was not doubling. Turns out that the doubler charge cap, a
small Taiwanese 105C low ESR electrolytic was low cap and high ESR. Changed
out the cap and it works fine now. Suggest you check this out before buying
a new board. (I checked the price of mine; $ 400!!! )

Jeff
 

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