Desoldering pump to avoid

[Sylvia Else]

https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.

Sylvia.

 

[BM2335]

On 03-Apr-17 8:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.

Sylvia.

Not surprised. It's cheap crud.

 

[Phil Allison]

Trevor Wilson wrote:

However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.

** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Would the FR300 be a god bet for this job and what price is WES asking ?


...... Phil

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 3/04/2017 10:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.

**Jaycar/Electus has been my absolute last resort supplier for some
years. They drive their suppliers to sell at the lowest possible price,
without regard for quality.

If you want a decent, manual desoldering device, then you will be happy
with this:

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/edsyn-soldapullt-original-es-sucker/soldering/tools-test/6620/fl/

Spares are readily available and the tool works quite well.

However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 4/04/2017 8:14 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:

On 3/04/2017 10:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.


**Jaycar/Electus has been my absolute last resort supplier for some
years. They drive their suppliers to sell at the lowest possible price,
without regard for quality.

If you want a decent, manual desoldering device, then you will be happy
with this:

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/edsyn-soldapullt-original-es-sucker/soldering/tools-test/6620/fl/

**FWIW: I have been using one of these since the mid-1970s. I keep one
on the bench. They last quite well. In daily use, tips last about 2
months and the entire tool is replaced about once per year. Which is
pretty good. I, too, have tried the cheapies. They're shit. The Edsyn is
far and away the best I have used. If you want to save a few cents, opt
for the non-static safe model. I have no idea why you would want to
though. Also, buy a couple of spare tips (if you plan on giving it a bit
of work) and a tube of O-ring grease. Keep it clean and it will work
well for you.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Phil Allison]

Trevor Wilson wrote:

Would the FR300 be a god bet for this job and what price is WES
asking ? https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

**I can't promise, but I have desoldered some absolute bitches of
components with the Hakko. The tip temperature can be cranked up to
around 450 degrees C (more than 500 actually), which I have found deals
with anything I can throw at it. Yes, that includes ground plane PCBs.
It is an expensive sucker (pun intended) at $495.00, but, having used a
couple of desoldering irons in the past, the Hakko wipes the floor with
them in quite a few ways. The first thing I noticed was the barrel is
very solid, with a cast stainless steel piece to attach it to the
handle. Hakko also supply a heat resistant tool to allow tip changes
when hot. Tips and barrels never seem to 'freeze'. The tips are
beautiful things, with some kind of coating to reduce build-up of crap.
Cleaning the crap container is quick and easy. Warm-up time is very
quick and the tip is nice and chunky, so heat retention is excellent,
even with repeated or prolonged sucking. Compared to the one I bought a
few years back from Altronics, it is a revelation. IT is a very good
desoldering iron.

** The only info I see on the net is not so encouraging.

Seems the high voltage DC pump motor is prone to burn out and the heater often goes open.

Maybe just a problem with early models.

Any comments?


..... Phil

 

[Clocky]

On 3/04/2017 8:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.

Sylvia.

I haven't touched a manual pump sine I bought a vacuum desoldering
station many, many moons ago.

Trevor suggested a good one but I've had excellent service out of an
(now long obsoleted) Micron and it wasn't that expensive.

Do yourself a favour and get a desoldering station.

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 4/04/2017 9:33 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you
need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which
has saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is
minimised with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin
cutting and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

**Puke. That ground plane can make life very difficult indeed.

Would the FR300 be a god bet for this job and what price is WES
asking ? https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

**I can't promise, but I have desoldered some absolute bitches of
components with the Hakko. The tip temperature can be cranked up to
around 450 degrees C (more than 500 actually), which I have found deals
with anything I can throw at it. Yes, that includes ground plane PCBs.
It is an expensive sucker (pun intended) at $495.00, but, having used a
couple of desoldering irons in the past, the Hakko wipes the floor with
them in quite a few ways. The first thing I noticed was the barrel is
very solid, with a cast stainless steel piece to attach it to the
handle. Hakko also supply a heat resistant tool to allow tip changes
when hot. Tips and barrels never seem to 'freeze'. The tips are
beautiful things, with some kind of coating to reduce build-up of crap.
Cleaning the crap container is quick and easy. Warm-up time is very
quick and the tip is nice and chunky, so heat retention is excellent,
even with repeated or prolonged sucking. Compared to the one I bought a
few years back from Altronics, it is a revelation. IT is a very good
desoldering iron.

Maybe WES have a demo model? You're welcome to try mine out if you like.

I have to say that part of the prompting to buy the Hakko was because a
CD player landed on the bench. It had about 100 electrolytic caps, some
of which were bulging. Speaking to the client, he expressed a desire to
swap the lot out and replace with Panasonics. I reckon the Hakko saved
me about 2 hours labor. It was a double sided PCB with a ground plane.
Multiply that by half a dozen jobs and it pays for itself.

BTW: I had short-listed a full blown desoldering station, with an
external pump, but a conversation with Peter Stein caused me to
reevaluate the internal pump design, as the flexible pipe carrying the
suction will, inevitably cause a loss of suction. Which I now realise is
the big problem with the POS Chinese one I bought awhile back.

I actually like it as much as my Rigol DS1054z.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 4/04/2017 11:59 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:

On 4/04/2017 8:14 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 3/04/2017 10:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.


**Jaycar/Electus has been my absolute last resort supplier for some
years. They drive their suppliers to sell at the lowest possible price,
without regard for quality.

If you want a decent, manual desoldering device, then you will be happy
with this:

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/edsyn-soldapullt-original-es-sucker/soldering/tools-test/6620/fl/



Spares are readily available and the tool works quite well.

However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


Nice. But I don't do enough de soldering to justify the cost.

**Which is why I suggested the Edsyn. Don't be tempted to buy the
cheaper model or a lookalike.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Sylvia Else]

On 4/04/2017 8:14 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:

On 3/04/2017 10:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.


**Jaycar/Electus has been my absolute last resort supplier for some
years. They drive their suppliers to sell at the lowest possible price,
without regard for quality.

If you want a decent, manual desoldering device, then you will be happy
with this:

https://www.wagneronline.com.au/edsyn-soldapullt-original-es-sucker/soldering/tools-test/6620/fl/


Spares are readily available and the tool works quite well.

However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


Nice. But I don't do enough de soldering to justify the cost.

Sylvia.

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 4/04/2017 12:33 PM, Phil Allison wrote:

Trevor Wilson wrote:



Would the FR300 be a god bet for this job and what price is WES
asking ? https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

**I can't promise, but I have desoldered some absolute bitches of
components with the Hakko. The tip temperature can be cranked up to
around 450 degrees C (more than 500 actually), which I have found deals
with anything I can throw at it. Yes, that includes ground plane PCBs.
It is an expensive sucker (pun intended) at $495.00, but, having used a
couple of desoldering irons in the past, the Hakko wipes the floor with
them in quite a few ways. The first thing I noticed was the barrel is
very solid, with a cast stainless steel piece to attach it to the
handle. Hakko also supply a heat resistant tool to allow tip changes
when hot. Tips and barrels never seem to 'freeze'. The tips are
beautiful things, with some kind of coating to reduce build-up of crap.
Cleaning the crap container is quick and easy. Warm-up time is very
quick and the tip is nice and chunky, so heat retention is excellent,
even with repeated or prolonged sucking. Compared to the one I bought a
few years back from Altronics, it is a revelation. IT is a very good
desoldering iron.


** The only info I see on the net is not so encouraging.

Seems the high voltage DC pump motor is prone to burn out and the heater often goes open.

Maybe just a problem with early models.

Any comments?

**Mine has been fine. So far. It's been in daily use for a little over
one year.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Computer Nerd Kev]

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:

Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.

--
__ __
#_ < |\| |< _#

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 5/04/2017 8:19 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.

**Look for 'flush cutters'. That said, a credible argument can be
mounted to suggest that cutting pins after soldering is not a good idea,
as the stress of cutting may cause a fracture in the joint. Unlikely,
but possible. Best to cut first, then solder.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Clocky]

On 5/04/2017 6:19 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.

Dremel :-O

I have small sidecutters that do the job, approx 1/2 size of regular
size cutters. I can't give you a brand name as they aren't marked and I
can't remember where I got them from but the tip is curved just enough
to get in between the pins and they are sharp enough to cut through them.

Not that I normally bother, most times I can remove IC's complete with
the desoldering gun.

Actually, I think you have an 8255 in your possession that is testament
to that ;-)

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 5/04/2017 8:41 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:

On 5/04/2017 8:19 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.


**Look for 'flush cutters'. That said, a credible argument can be
mounted to suggest that cutting pins after soldering is not a good idea,
as the stress of cutting may cause a fracture in the joint. Unlikely,
but possible. Best to cut first, then solder.

**Oops. Ignore that. I mis-read your post. A good desoldering iron will
do all you require.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[keithr0]

On 4/3/2017 10:05 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/plastic-desolder-tool/p/TH1860

This is unsafe. It self-disassembles in use, projecting the handle
sharply upwards towards any vulnerable body part, with the eyes being
the most obvious targets.

Sylvia.

I've seen similar devices in use for the last 50 years and have never
known anybody hurt themselves with one.

Personally, I'd rather use solder wick.

 

[F Murtz]

Clocky wrote:

On 5/04/2017 6:19 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.


Dremel :-O

I have small sidecutters that do the job, approx 1/2 size of regular
size cutters. I can't give you a brand name as they aren't marked and I
can't remember where I got them from but the tip is curved just enough
to get in between the pins and they are sharp enough to cut through them.

Not that I normally bother, most times I can remove IC's complete with
the desoldering gun.

Actually, I think you have an 8255 in your possession that is testament
to that ;-)



I got a small pair of sidecutters and reshaped tips.

 

[Phil Allison]

Computer Nerd Kev wrote:

** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.

** I use a pair of " Micro Nippers" from Xuron, made in USA.

WES sell them for $20 or so.

Cat no: HT1702


...... Phil

 

[Computer Nerd Kev]

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:

Computer Nerd Kev wrote:



** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.


** I use a pair of " Micro Nippers" from Xuron, made in USA.

WES sell them for $20 or so.

Cat no: HT1702

Thanks, I've got a couple with similar ends, but they have a tiny
flat bit at the tip of the point which is just wide enough to stop
the blades from slipping beside adjacent pins.

Now that I think about it, a careful rub against the grinder might
sort things out.

--
__ __
#_ < |\| |< _#

 

[Computer Nerd Kev]

Clocky <notgonn@happen.com> wrote:

On 5/04/2017 6:19 AM, Computer Nerd Kev wrote:
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:


However, when you REALLY want to desolder stuff, this is what you need:

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr300.html

WES can supply. It is a beautifully built desoldering iron, which has
saved me a great deal of time and money. Damage to PCBs is minimised
with this device.


** I need to remove some 16 pin DILs from a triple layer PCB ( ground
plane in the middle ) while not damaging them. So far, only pin cutting
and tedious removal of the each legs is working for me.

Do you have a trick for cutting the pins? I can never get any of my side
cutters in close enough.


Dremel :-O

I have small sidecutters that do the job, approx 1/2 size of regular
size cutters. I can't give you a brand name as they aren't marked and I
can't remember where I got them from but the tip is curved just enough
to get in between the pins and they are sharp enough to cut through them.

OK, as I said to Phil I've got everything but the curved tip, and I think
that should be fixable.

Not that I normally bother, most times I can remove IC's complete with
the desoldering gun.

My DIY desolering iron project that I mentioned here fell in a heap when
the PC power supply which I had built everything around decided to die
during the final test (I don't think it liked the uneven load). I'll get
back to it eventually.

Actually, I think you have an 8255 in your possession that is testament
to that ;-)

Ahh, well I never quite had the heart to tell you that it didn't work.
A strange, seemingly internal, problem where it wouldn't go into all
of its programmable modes. In the end I found some being sold for a
good price on Aliexpress and one of them got me working. Recently I
was even given an old PCB with a socketed one on it! Thanks anyway
though.

--
__ __
#_ < |\| |< _#