Desoldering a Tuning Fork Can

C

Chris

Guest
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder. Similar to a sealed
crystal can. My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
 
On Feb 2, 4:10 pm, Chris <christopher.man...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.  Similar to a sealed
crystal can.  My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can.  Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
Just how big is that thing? I can take the shield plates off PC boards
with a very small Metcal tip. 200 Watts is about 4 times the power of
the Metcal. Is that a Weller gun? Are all the terminals tight? Clean?
Tinned?

G˛
 
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 16:10:50 -0800 (PST), Chris
<christopher.maness@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.
Click to expand...
I searched for "tuning fork can" and only found sentences like "a
tuning fork can help you tune a piano".

Do you plan to use the can again after you open it. I've seen tuning
forks in velvet-lined boxes. Or wrapped in felt in any old box. Is a
can that important? If the can is round, doesn't it waste space?

Similar to a sealed
crystal can. My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
A can opener? A hack saw? A band saw? A propane torch? A roofer's
soldering iron?

If it's too hot, might it not damage the fork or ignite the other
packaging?

It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
 
On Feb 2, 4:59 pm, stratu...@yahoo.com wrote:
On Feb 2, 4:10 pm, Chris <christopher.man...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.  Similar to a sealed
crystal can.  My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can.  Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness

Just how big is that thing? I can take the shield plates off PC boards
with a very small Metcal tip. 200 Watts is about 4 times the power of
the Metcal. Is that a Weller gun? Are all the terminals tight? Clean?
Tinned?

G˛
Click to expand...
Yes, to all of the above. It is a 260W Weller gun. It is a big heavy
can, about 2.5" by 1" square.

Chris
 
On Feb 2, 7:41 pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 16:10:50 -0800 (PST), Chris

christopher.man...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.  

I searched for "tuning fork can" and only found sentences like "a
tuning fork can help you tune a piano".

Do you plan to use the can again after you open it.  I've seen tuning
forks in velvet-lined boxes.  Or wrapped in felt in any old box.  Is a
can that important?  If the can is round, doesn't it waste space?

Similar to a sealed
crystal can.  My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can.  Any suggestions?

A can opener?  A hack saw?  A band saw?  A propane torch?  A roofer's
soldering iron?

If it's too hot, might it not damage the fork or ignite the other
packaging?

It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
The tuning fork is a tuning fork oscillator. It has a driver coil on
one side and a exciter coil on the other. It also has a divide by two
flip flop inside, this probably has a bad transistor because it is not
dividing by two anymore.

Thanks,
Chris
 
On Feb 2, 5:10�pm, Chris <christopher.man...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder. �Similar to a sealed
crystal can. �My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. �Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
Chris

For things like this I have used an electric stove burner. Perhaps a
hot plate with a slab of stainless steel would be suitable. The slab
to assure uniform heating and heat transfer. Originally inductance
heating was probably used.

Bob AZ
 
I have a tuning-fork can sealed with solder. My
200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have
enough BTU's to melt very much of the solder.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Using a jeweler's saw (or similar fine-toothed saw), cut open the can along
the solder joint.

-- The Lady from Philadelphia
 
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 16:10:50 -0800 (PST), Chris
<christopher.maness@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.
Click to expand...
Are you sure it's soldered and not welded? If welded, then a can
opener, rotary grinder, rotary cutting tool, or belt sander to attack
the seam, might work.

Incidentally, if there's a evacuation seal somewhere on the can, then
you'll probably find a partial vacuum inside. The tuning fork
characteristics will change slightly when vibrating in air as compared
to a vacuum. Are you sure you wanna do this?

Similar to a sealed
crystal can. My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.
Click to expand...
Pre-heat the whole can on a hot plate. When you get it hot enough,
the solder will melt and it should just fall apart.

If you don't wanna risk getting it that hot, just get it fairly warm.
Apply some rosin paste flux. Then try hitting it with a plumbers
soldering tip on a propane torch. If it can solder copper plumbing,
it should be able to get the can hot enough.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Chris wrote in message ...
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder. Similar to a sealed
crystal can. My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...

480khz ceramic resonators are availble.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=480+khz+
resonator
You could easily put together an oscillator with this and follow it with a
divide by ten chip
 
Some difficult-to-solder parts are soldered quickly with resistance
soldering equipment. American Beauty and Pace are 2 that I'm familiar with.

The soldering tips are wired to a fairly high current, very low voltage (not
many turns for the secondary winding) transformer, and the duty cycle of the
xfmr primary winding is regulated by a simple triac/diac circuit.

The tips are put in contact with the workpiece, and current is passed thru
the workpiece, creating a short circuit in the xfmr secondary circuit,
quickly generating heat in the workpiece.

The tip placement for most items is at opposite sides of the workpiece,
heating the entire part located between the tips.
The tips don't need to be tinned, they only need to make good electrical
contact with the workpiece.

The end cover for a cannister type object would be a fairly simple and quick
task with a resistance soldering unit.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Chris" <christopher.maness@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f6fff602-fa46-40e5-ad75-a087cc6fb616@g28g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder. Similar to a sealed
crystal can. My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can. Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
 
On Feb 3, 2:42 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
Some difficult-to-solder parts are soldered quickly with resistance
soldering equipment. American Beauty and Pace are 2 that I'm familiar with.

The soldering tips are wired to a fairly high current, very low voltage (not
many turns for the secondary winding) transformer, and the duty cycle of the
xfmr primary winding is regulated by a simple triac/diac circuit.

The tips are put in contact with the workpiece, and current is passed thru
the workpiece, creating a short circuit in the xfmr secondary circuit,
quickly generating heat in the workpiece.

The tip placement for most items is at opposite sides of the workpiece,
heating the entire part located between the tips.
The tips don't need to be tinned, they only need to make good electrical
contact with the workpiece.

The end cover for a cannister type object would be a fairly simple and quick
task with a resistance soldering unit.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Chris" <christopher.man...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:f6fff602-fa46-40e5-ad75-a087cc6fb616@g28g2000prb.googlegroups.com...

I have a tuning fork can sealed with solder.  Similar to a sealed
crystal can.  My 200W soldering gun doesn't even seem to have enough
BTU's to melt very much of the solder on the can.  Any suggestions?
It is a rather large heat sink capacity.

Regards,
Chris Maness
Click to expand...
I have decided to build a crystal controlled multivibrator circuit to
replace it. I started a thread about it on sci.electronics.design.
The guy that I had ordered the crystal from told me that it would be a
bad idea to open the can due to contamination. However, I might be
still interested in opening the can once I get the thing working with
the crystal vibe with a divide by 2^14.

Regards,
Chris Maness
KQ6UP
 
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