S
Steve DeGroof
Guest
First off: This doesn't actually work. It's close but not good
enough for an actual PCB.
I was playing around with a product called LaserFoil.
http://www.desktopsupplies.com/dps/gollas2x200.html
It's intended to be used for adding foil effects using a laser
printer. You print a pattern with your laser printer and iron on
the foil. The foil is actually coated mylar. When you peel away
the mylar, the coating sticks to the toner, giving a metallic
look.
Just for fun, I tried printing a PCB pattern on heavy card stock
and ironing on the foil. The result was a metallic-look pattern
that looked a lot like copper traces. Not only that but the lines
actually conducted electricity.
Now, there are three problems with it:
1. There is a thin, non-conducting layer on top of the traces.
You have to scrape away the layer to get a reading.
2. The conductivity of the traces is poor. The best I could
get was about 10k over a 1" span.
3. The traces repelled solder. It was impossible to make a decent
connection.
That said, it occurs to me that a product that overcomes these
problems is not entirely impossible. What you'd need is a sheet
of mylar coated in copper or particles, arranged so that they tend
to spead out a bit (and therefore overlap) when ironed.
Of course, you'd still end up with a PCB made out of card stock.
enough for an actual PCB.
I was playing around with a product called LaserFoil.
http://www.desktopsupplies.com/dps/gollas2x200.html
It's intended to be used for adding foil effects using a laser
printer. You print a pattern with your laser printer and iron on
the foil. The foil is actually coated mylar. When you peel away
the mylar, the coating sticks to the toner, giving a metallic
look.
Just for fun, I tried printing a PCB pattern on heavy card stock
and ironing on the foil. The result was a metallic-look pattern
that looked a lot like copper traces. Not only that but the lines
actually conducted electricity.
Now, there are three problems with it:
1. There is a thin, non-conducting layer on top of the traces.
You have to scrape away the layer to get a reading.
2. The conductivity of the traces is poor. The best I could
get was about 10k over a 1" span.
3. The traces repelled solder. It was impossible to make a decent
connection.
That said, it occurs to me that a product that overcomes these
problems is not entirely impossible. What you'd need is a sheet
of mylar coated in copper or particles, arranged so that they tend
to spead out a bit (and therefore overlap) when ironed.
Of course, you'd still end up with a PCB made out of card stock.