DC Rectifier

T

TR

Guest
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
 
"TR" <noemail@me.com>
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20
years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on.
Click to expand...
** So "Lynden" is/was a bloke's name ??


Would appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in Australia that
could supply something similar.
Click to expand...
** Similar to what ??

A home made unit that only the OP knows anything about ??

Who can see the absurdity here ??

Maybe the OP can get his arse in gear enough to post a pic of the original.


...... Phil
 
"TR" <noemail@me.com> schreef in bericht
news:0aSdnWTpM7jeTTnXnZ2dnUVZ_v6dnZ2d@netspace.net.au...
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20
years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would
appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could
supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Click to expand...
Some Googling may help finding
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/rsp-3000-24.shtml
for instance. This one is in the USA but Google on.

petrus bitbyter
 
Phil Allison wrote:
Who can see the absurdity here ??
Click to expand...

Its nothing new. You are always absurd.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!
 
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Click to expand...

I'm not in Oz, but I would see what is availible for motorhomes or
RVs. They are common items in the USA. The first thing you need to do
is find out what output current you need.

Some older supplies were nothing more than a transformer and a pair
of high current diodes. They are unfiltered, but rorked OK with lights
and pumps.

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!
 
On Mon, 07 Sep 2009 19:19:58 +1000, TR wrote:

Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20
years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would
appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in Australia that
could supply something similar.
Click to expand...
Better quality battery charger?
Plenty of 240V to 24V power supply manufacturers around.
how much power are you talking about?
where does the 240V come from in the first place?
 
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 01:27:52 +0000 (UTC), terryc <newsninespam-spam@woa.com.au>
wrote:


:where does the 240V come from in the first place?
:

The workboat will have its own 240Vac generator operating from the diesel
motor...
 
On Mon, 7 Sep 2009 19:19:58 +1000, "TR" <noemail@me.com> wrote:

:Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
:lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
:backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
:ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
:if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
:something similar.
:Many thanks.
:TR.
:


The system you describe is essentially the same as would be used for a
telecommunications network power supply with a float charged battery.

Typical power supplies of this type are quite expensive but I would suggest a 3U
version might fit your application. The 50-200A 3U version might be suitable.
http://www.gfspower.com.au/24V%20Power%20Systems.htm
 
On Tue, 08 Sep 2009 02:40:53 +0000, Ross Herbert wrote:

On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 01:27:52 +0000 (UTC), terryc
newsninespam-spam@woa.com.au> wrote:


:where does the 240V come from in the first place? :

The workboat will have its own 240Vac generator operating from the
diesel motor...
Click to expand...
Err, why? what are you running off this that needs 240Vac?
Wouldn't it be easier to just run a 24V(battery bank voltage) generator
off the motor and save all the problems of bringing it down again?

If it is small current 240V, then 24V to 240v inverters are common and
cheap.
 
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.


Hi there,
Click to expand...

Try Woods Electric. They specialise in large chargers like you are
looking for.

Check out this link for the Neptune range of chargers. it may be just
what you want.

http://woods.arbaronx.net/modules/content/index.php?id=11

Hope this helps. Mark.
 
On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 03:10:35 +0000 (UTC), terryc <newsninespam-spam@woa.com.au>
wrote:

:On Tue, 08 Sep 2009 02:40:53 +0000, Ross Herbert wrote:
:
:> On Tue, 8 Sep 2009 01:27:52 +0000 (UTC), terryc
:> <newsninespam-spam@woa.com.au> wrote:
:>
:>
:> :where does the 240V come from in the first place? :
:>
:> The workboat will have its own 240Vac generator operating from the
:> diesel motor...
:
:Err, why? what are you running off this that needs 240Vac?
:Wouldn't it be easier to just run a 24V(battery bank voltage) generator
:eek:ff the motor and save all the problems of bringing it down again?
:
:If it is small current 240V, then 24V to 240v inverters are common and
:cheap.

Boats which are out to sea for more than a week at a time need facilities to
make for a more comfortable work environment. Access to everyday electrical
appliances help make this possible. It is much cheaper to equip the boat with
240V appliances than to buy lower voltage units generally designed for caravan
and RV use.

I admit I don't know whether the OP's workboat has a 240Vc generator but I have
done work on a fishing boat which did have this capability. 10 years ago it was
common to have a 240V generator added when the boat was being built but I think
that on more modern boats there is a trend towards using large capacity DC-AC
inverters rather than a rotating alternator to produce the 240Vac.
 
On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 03:25:09 +0000, Ross Herbert wrote:


Boats which are out to sea for more than a week at a time need
facilities to make for a more comfortable work environment.
Click to expand...
Aah, work boat in the sense of a fisherman working on a fishing trawler
or similar, rather than a portable workshop boat.

As you point out, the devil is in the detail and how the power is used
for what purpose.
 
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.

Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick smith. you
Click to expand...
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp, they
would probably cost $5 each? approx
Just a thought!
John
--
Posted at www.usenet.com.au
 
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.

Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,
Click to expand...
Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.


--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
 
Bob Larter wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control
and lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with
battery backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from
nearly 20 years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed
on. Would appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in
Australia that could supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an
old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick
smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,

Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.
Click to expand...
"The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next lowest, & so on"

Which should give you a clue on how to proceed down that path - add a
very low ohm resistor in series with each bridge (something in the order
of the hundredths of ohms range) so that the worst current hog only gets
a maximum of 35 amps. At this current the resistors are still going to
be physically big or very numerous.

or you could try this:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=1837320

but seriously, if you have any doubts you should get someone to look at
the thing for you.
 
"David Eather" <eather@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:CfCdnbn9C83grzLXnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@supernews.com...
Bob Larter wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20
years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would
appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in Australia that
could supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an
old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick
smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,

Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.



"The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next lowest, & so on"

Which should give you a clue on how to proceed down that path - add a very
low ohm resistor in series with each bridge (something in the order of the
hundredths of ohms range) so that the worst current hog only gets a
maximum of 35 amps.
Click to expand...
Nuh, the resistors have to be in series with each individual diode.
 
Bruce Varley wrote:
"David Eather" <eather@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:CfCdnbn9C83grzLXnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@supernews.com...
Bob Larter wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20
years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would
appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in Australia that
could supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an
old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick
smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,
Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.


"The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next lowest, & so on"

Which should give you a clue on how to proceed down that path - add a very
low ohm resistor in series with each bridge (something in the order of the
hundredths of ohms range) so that the worst current hog only gets a
maximum of 35 amps.

Nuh, the resistors have to be in series with each individual diode.
Click to expand...
I've got to say I don't agree.
 
On Sep 15, 1:47 pm, Bob Larter <bobbylar...@gmail.com> wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control and
lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with battery
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from nearly 20 years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed on. Would appreciate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that could supply
something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.

Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe an old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,

Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.
Click to expand...
So match the Vf's best as possible using a test rig. If one diode
junction heats up due to extra current, its Vf rises a bit, and then
the other diodes would share the extra current. Its self equalising.

The best solution is actually to use one suitably rated diode.
 
glenbadd <glennbaddeley@yahoo.com.au> wrote in
news:d5270df0-40c1-4201-8bf9-7a4c8b61ce79@g1g2000vbr.googlegro
ups.com:

On Sep 15, 1:47 pm, Bob Larter <bobbylar...@gmail.com
wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system
for control and lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC
120A output rectifier with batter
y
backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job
from nearly 20
years
ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed
on. Would appreci
ate it
if someone could recommend a company in Australia that
could supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.

Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp
rectifier, maybe an
old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from
jaycar or dick smi
th. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give
you 175 amp,

Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode,
then next lowest, & so on.

So match the Vf's best as possible using a test rig. If one
diode junction heats up due to extra current, its Vf rises
a bit, and then the other diodes would share the extra
current. Its self equalising.
Click to expand...
Exactly wrong, Vf drops with temperature.


The best solution is actually to use one suitably rated
diode.
Click to expand...
 
David Eather wrote:
Bob Larter wrote:
moffie wrote:
TR wrote:
Work on a workboat. Installed as our 24 volt DC system for control
and lighting is a 240 VAC input / 24 VDC 120A output rectifier with
battery backup. The rectifier has failed. Was a home built job from
nearly 20 years ago. The builder I believe (Lynden) has since passed
on. Would appreciate it if someone could recommend a company in
Australia that could supply something similar.
Many thanks.
TR.
Hi TR, I don't know where you could get a 120 amp rectifier, maybe
an old
stick welder?, but you can get 35amp rectifiers from jaycar or dick
smith. you
can join 5 of them together in parallel which would give you 175 amp,

Wouldn't work. The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next
lowest, & so on.



"The one with the lowest Vf would explode, then next lowest, & so on"

Which should give you a clue on how to proceed down that path - add a
very low ohm resistor in series with each bridge (something in the order
of the hundredths of ohms range) so that the worst current hog only gets
a maximum of 35 amps.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
 
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