Daggy soldering

[L.A.T.]

I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I was
when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I remove
the iron.
Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not merely
a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive (around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for just over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering station.

 

[L.A.T.]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:s3bfh4t8gu98610dau3alg9b8fc6hugjlm@4ax.com...

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive
(around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for just
over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering station.
Thanks. The tips have a single-digit number on the flat end. I have 6, 7,

and 8.
The unit makes regular clicking noises that I imagine is the temperature
control.
The problem does seem to be independent of which tip I am using.
After all these years, is Weller still the ideal choice?

 

[Phil Allison]

"Ross Herbert"
"L.A.T."

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60).

** Huh ???

L.A.T.'s problem is probably that he is using bloody stupid 99% tin "lead
free" solder !!

Makes you have to wipe to tip EVERY SINGLE time you use it.


BTW:

Where did the original post appear ?

No sign of it on Google Groups nor my usual news server.



...... Phil

 

[David L. Jones]

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:vtORk.13906$sc2.11398@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:s3bfh4t8gu98610dau3alg9b8fc6hugjlm@4ax.com...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive
(around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for just
over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering station.
Thanks. The tips have a single-digit number on the flat end. I have 6, 7,
and 8.
The unit makes regular clicking noises that I imagine is the temperature
control.
The problem does seem to be independent of which tip I am using.
After all these years, is Weller still the ideal choice?

Not the old fixed temp tip type Weller, they are considered somewhat
archaic.
You really should have a proper variable temp iron, they are much more
versatile.
You can get proper variable temp Wellers which aren't bad.
Hakko (936) is probably the most popular low-ish cost brand in the industry.

Dave.

 

[David L. Jones]

"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:6nqg9nF8h5pU1@mid.individual.net...

"Ross Herbert"
"L.A.T."

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60).


** Huh ???

L.A.T.'s problem is probably that he is using bloody stupid 99% tin "lead
free" solder !!

Makes you have to wipe to tip EVERY SINGLE time you use it.


BTW:

Where did the original post appear ?

No sign of it on Google Groups nor my usual news server.

I can see it on my Bigpond news server. But LAT did post using the Bigpond
server, so you think that'd be a given :->

Dave.

 

[L.A.T.]

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:l2URk.14001$sc2.2022@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:vtORk.13906$sc2.11398@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:s3bfh4t8gu98610dau3alg9b8fc6hugjlm@4ax.com...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive
(around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for just
over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering station.
Thanks. The tips have a single-digit number on the flat end. I have 6,
7, and 8.
The unit makes regular clicking noises that I imagine is the temperature
control.
The problem does seem to be independent of which tip I am using.
After all these years, is Weller still the ideal choice?

Not the old fixed temp tip type Weller, they are considered somewhat
archaic.
You really should have a proper variable temp iron, they are much more
versatile.
You can get proper variable temp Wellers which aren't bad.
Hakko (936) is probably the most popular low-ish cost brand in the
industry.

Dave.
The solder is 60% tin, 38% lead and 2% copper. DSE. Old.

Curiously, one result of Googling Hakko 936 sends me to Jaycar's catalogue,
to a Duratech soldering station at $99 that doesn't look much like a Hakko.
Here in the bush it boils down to mail order (Jaycar, Altronics) or a one
hour drive to Dick Smith. I don't share the widespread scorn heaped on DSE.
They do sell a lot of crap, but they sell some remarkably good stuff too.
The local staff don't know a lot but they are helpful and seem eager to
learn. They have a surprising range of components that are well organised
and competently catalogued. I remember the old days when the Bespectacled
One was moved to tears at the sight of an Australian flag and then flogged
imported CB radios that shared few frequencies with the local regulations,
modems that lasted three months, and less-than-wonderful kits.
My only real gripe with DSE is the relentless, deafening, all-pervasive
music(?) that demonstrates better than anything just how poor their
bottom-of-the-range audio systems are. It is like being in a 19-year-old's
first car.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 21:21:47 +1100, "Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

:
:"Ross Herbert"
: "L.A.T."
:>
:> :I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more than
:> :thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older than I
:> was
:> :when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able to
:> :solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as I
:> remove
:> :the iron.
:> :Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is not
:> merely
:> :a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort of
:> :iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:> :
:>
:>
:> First try a new tip (700F is usual)
:>
:> If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
:> TC208) or
:> the switch unit (part SW60).
:
:
:** Huh ???
:
:L.A.T.'s problem is probably that he is using bloody stupid 99% tin "lead
:free" solder !!
:
:Makes you have to wipe to tip EVERY SINGLE time you use it.

I wasn't aware of the solder type being used since it wasn't stated by the OP.
But if this is the case then it is no wonder he can't get a good soldered joint.

For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick with 60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

:
:
:BTW:
:
:Where did the original post appear ?
:
:No sign of it on Google Groups nor my usual news server.
:
:
:
:..... Phil
:
:
:
:

 

[David L. Jones]

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:st2Sk.14139$sc2.2187@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:KC0Sk.14119$sc2.3049@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:Y20Sk.14109$sc2.9582@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:l2URk.14001$sc2.2022@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:vtORk.13906$sc2.11398@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:s3bfh4t8gu98610dau3alg9b8fc6hugjlm@4ax.com...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more
than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older
than I was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be able
to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as
I remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is
not merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what sort
of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element (part
TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive
(around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for
just over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering
station.
Thanks. The tips have a single-digit number on the flat end. I have
6, 7, and 8.
The unit makes regular clicking noises that I imagine is the
temperature control.
The problem does seem to be independent of which tip I am using.
After all these years, is Weller still the ideal choice?

Not the old fixed temp tip type Weller, they are considered somewhat
archaic.
You really should have a proper variable temp iron, they are much more
versatile.
You can get proper variable temp Wellers which aren't bad.
Hakko (936) is probably the most popular low-ish cost brand in the
industry.

Dave.
The solder is 60% tin, 38% lead and 2% copper. DSE. Old.

Curiously, one result of Googling Hakko 936 sends me to Jaycar's
catalogue, to a Duratech soldering station at $99 that doesn't look much
like a Hakko.

Jaycar do have a Hakko ripoff, looks just like it:
http://electusdistribution.com.au/productView.asp?ID=7913&CATID=29&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&SUBCATID=198
No idea if it takes the same tips, but I wouldn't touch it.

First hit on Google for me:
http://www.computronics.com.au/hakko/soldering/


Odd. For two hours this morning all I got here was a blank screen.

Google Australia was down down for me yesterday morning as well.
Google.com worked fine.

AU$125 + gst.
And that's the black "ESD safe" version.


What is the difference between the two?

The only difference is the "ESD" version uses anti-static material on the
body, lead and iron handle. i.e. it does not accumulate a static charge.
Nothing most users need to worry about really.
If you find the normal white version cheaper, then grab it.

Will the lead-free iron solder effectively using old 60/40 solder? If not,
why not?

Yep, it certainly will, you can use "lead free" tips with lead based solder
no problems.
The only difference with "lead free capabable" iron tips is that they are
better to last longer with less corrosion at higher temps etc when used with
lead free solder. And they don't come supplied with an initial lead based
solder coating.

This might help:
http://www.hakkousa.com/leadfree.asp

I am a genuine seeker after knowledge and enlightenment. Google is not
much help.

Here in the bush it boils down to mail order (Jaycar, Altronics) or a
one hour drive to Dick Smith.

Plenty of other mail order places both here and overseas!

True. I was burned once and now I stick to the two I mentioned.

You can't go wrong with reputable ones like Farnell, RS, Digikey, Mouser
etc.

Dave.

 

[L.A.T.]

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:QxbSk.14261$sc2.5279@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:st2Sk.14139$sc2.2187@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:KC0Sk.14119$sc2.3049@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:Y20Sk.14109$sc2.9582@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:l2URk.14001$sc2.2022@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:vtORk.13906$sc2.11398@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:s3bfh4t8gu98610dau3alg9b8fc6hugjlm@4ax.com...
On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:57:45 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

:I have a Weller soldering iron, with replaceable tips. It is more
than
:thirty years old, I think, and I am more than thirty years older
than I was
:when I bought it. Between us (Weller and I) we don't seem to be
able to
:solder anything without the tip dragging a dag of solder with it as
I remove
:the iron.
:Is there a simple, fixable, reason for this? I hope the answer is
not merely
:a loss of dexterity on my part. New tips? New iron? If so, what
sort of
:iron. It doesn't have to last another thirty years.
:


First try a new tip (700F is usual)

If that doesn't fix it the problem is either the heater element
(part TC208) or
the switch unit (part SW60). Both of these items are quite expensive
(around
$100 for both together). You can buy a brand new Weller WTCPN for
just over
double that so you might be better off buying a new soldering
station.
Thanks. The tips have a single-digit number on the flat end. I have
6, 7, and 8.
The unit makes regular clicking noises that I imagine is the
temperature control.
The problem does seem to be independent of which tip I am using.
After all these years, is Weller still the ideal choice?

Not the old fixed temp tip type Weller, they are considered somewhat
archaic.
You really should have a proper variable temp iron, they are much more
versatile.
You can get proper variable temp Wellers which aren't bad.
Hakko (936) is probably the most popular low-ish cost brand in the
industry.

Dave.
The solder is 60% tin, 38% lead and 2% copper. DSE. Old.

Curiously, one result of Googling Hakko 936 sends me to Jaycar's
catalogue, to a Duratech soldering station at $99 that doesn't look
much like a Hakko.

Jaycar do have a Hakko ripoff, looks just like it:
http://electusdistribution.com.au/productView.asp?ID=7913&CATID=29&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&SUBCATID=198
No idea if it takes the same tips, but I wouldn't touch it.

First hit on Google for me:
http://www.computronics.com.au/hakko/soldering/


Odd. For two hours this morning all I got here was a blank screen.

Google Australia was down down for me yesterday morning as well.
Google.com worked fine.

AU$125 + gst.
And that's the black "ESD safe" version.


What is the difference between the two?

The only difference is the "ESD" version uses anti-static material on the
body, lead and iron handle. i.e. it does not accumulate a static charge.
Nothing most users need to worry about really.
If you find the normal white version cheaper, then grab it.

Will the lead-free iron solder effectively using old 60/40 solder? If
not, why not?

Yep, it certainly will, you can use "lead free" tips with lead based
solder no problems.
The only difference with "lead free capabable" iron tips is that they are
better to last longer with less corrosion at higher temps etc when used
with lead free solder. And they don't come supplied with an initial lead
based solder coating.

This might help:
http://www.hakkousa.com/leadfree.asp

I am a genuine seeker after knowledge and enlightenment. Google is not
much help.

Here in the bush it boils down to mail order (Jaycar, Altronics) or a
one hour drive to Dick Smith.

Plenty of other mail order places both here and overseas!

True. I was burned once and now I stick to the two I mentioned.

You can't go wrong with reputable ones like Farnell, RS, Digikey, Mouser
etc.

Dave.
Thank you.

Hakko it is.

 

[David L. Jones]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:fgihh4hf35fbppae8i93prrr74g8k8bmsm@4ax.com...

For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant
environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick with
60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

I agree with that.

Also, a key to good soldering is to use fine solder. I'm amazed at how some
people still use the 1mm+ stuff and complain that they can't solder SMD
parts or get too much solder on the joint etc.
0.56mm or smaller is the go, it allows you to better control the amount of
solder being applied to the joint.

As for tips, forget the conical type, a small chisel is the best general
purpose tip for PCB work.

Dave.

 

[L.A.T.]

"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:q6lih4d2sorh4tj79efu3d8goqgmged80n@4ax.com...

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 09:40:31 GMT, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:


"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:fgihh4hf35fbppae8i93prrr74g8k8bmsm@4ax.com...
For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant
environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick with
60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

I agree with that.

Also, a key to good soldering is to use fine solder. I'm amazed at how
some
people still use the 1mm+ stuff and complain that they can't solder SMD
parts or get too much solder on the joint etc.
0.56mm or smaller is the go, it allows you to better control the amount of
solder being applied to the joint.

As for tips, forget the conical type, a small chisel is the best general
purpose tip for PCB work.

Dave.


Hi LAT,

Don't give up on your oldie just yet. I agree the later ones are nice
but unless you plan to do production work your oldie will still serve
you well.

The temperature control for these is achieved by an unusual thermostat
mechanism. Each tip has a pellet of special alloy crimped on the back
end. It has a number stamped on it - 6 for 600F, 7 for 700F, etc. The
pellet is magnetic and attracts a magnet towards the back of the tip.
This operates the switch that applies power to the element. When the
temperature reaches the nominal temperature the pellet reaches its
Curie temperature which is where it loses its magnetic properties.
Click, off goes the heat. Then as it cools it regains magnetic
properties. Click, on goes the heat. Simple. Effective. Reliable.

Your iron heats up - so the element is intact. It makes a click so the
magnetic switch is working mechanically at least and it's getting up
to temperature. When it clicks again it must be starting a cooling
cycle so all is fine. If uncertain, simply remove the tip and confirm
that the element doesn't heat up without the pellet to operate the
switch.

Yeah, they're pretty lo-tech. But they work. And Jaycar at least still
carry tips (at some extortionate price - over $10 each I think). I
stuck some on the end of a US order from Mouser or DigiKey. That's the
only way to justify having a range of shapes/temps. I use mine in the
garage for occasional service work. For production and SMT I use a
much later ($2k) rig.

But think about it. If the tip is about the right temperature (and
those pellets never failed me on that score) and the solder/flux is
good, a new hotrod cannot actually solve your problem. Of course, a
shiny new toy will always be nice but you will still need to solve
your problem. I reckon it's not the iron. It'll have severely
over-cooked old solder on the tip, probably best fixed with a new tip,
and/or a bad choice of solder. Maybe old oxidised dark grey solder? I
agree re the unleaded solder. It's a dog. Unless you're in an RoHS
certified facility leaded will serve you fine. Just get some shiney
new 60/40 solder with fresh flux inside, install a brand new tip and
I'll be astounded if you don't return to your soldering prime. Then
the hormones will kick in and you'll buy a new solder station anyway
along with the doof-doof stereo from DSE and retire the old Weller to
the garage bench like I did.

John,
Soldering since 1960's
Now doing SMT with tweezers and microscope and glasses!
Thank you for the description of the Weller and its tips. It is all coming

back to me. The solder I am using is indeed old, but shiny. It is thin, much
thinner than some other solder I have which is labeled 0.91mm. The tip I am
using is a replacement: Number 7 with a fine point. All the other tips are
grotty and rusty. I will get a chisel and see what happens.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 08:40:16 GMT, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Google Australia was down down for me yesterday morning as well.
Google.com worked fine.

It appears that Google has changed its user interface. For anyone who
misses the old search interface for the Google Groups archive, here is
my workaround:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/fa136e589573f29e?dmode=source

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[K Ludger]

"L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote in message
news:Y20Sk.14109$sc2.9582@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Curiously, one result of Googling Hakko 936 sends me to Jaycar's
catalogue, to a Duratech soldering station at $99 that doesn't look much
like a Hakko.
Here in the bush it boils down to mail order (Jaycar, Altronics) or a one
hour drive to Dick Smith.

If you want to go with computronics, call them, a guy called Kevin Dare does
the tools/components, he's good guy. Costs $5 or $10 delivery no problems.

I've no relationship other than as a customer. They are also good for
kinsten pcb materials, lcds, pcb drills.....

 

[John]

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 10:51:28 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:q6lih4d2sorh4tj79efu3d8goqgmged80n@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 09:40:31 GMT, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:


"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:fgihh4hf35fbppae8i93prrr74g8k8bmsm@4ax.com...
For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant
environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick with
60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

I agree with that.

Also, a key to good soldering is to use fine solder. I'm amazed at how
some
people still use the 1mm+ stuff and complain that they can't solder SMD
parts or get too much solder on the joint etc.
0.56mm or smaller is the go, it allows you to better control the amount of
solder being applied to the joint.

As for tips, forget the conical type, a small chisel is the best general
purpose tip for PCB work.

Dave.


Hi LAT,

Don't give up on your oldie just yet. I agree the later ones are nice
but unless you plan to do production work your oldie will still serve
you well.

The temperature control for these is achieved by an unusual thermostat
mechanism. Each tip has a pellet of special alloy crimped on the back
end. It has a number stamped on it - 6 for 600F, 7 for 700F, etc. The
pellet is magnetic and attracts a magnet towards the back of the tip.
This operates the switch that applies power to the element. When the
temperature reaches the nominal temperature the pellet reaches its
Curie temperature which is where it loses its magnetic properties.
Click, off goes the heat. Then as it cools it regains magnetic
properties. Click, on goes the heat. Simple. Effective. Reliable.

Your iron heats up - so the element is intact. It makes a click so the
magnetic switch is working mechanically at least and it's getting up
to temperature. When it clicks again it must be starting a cooling
cycle so all is fine. If uncertain, simply remove the tip and confirm
that the element doesn't heat up without the pellet to operate the
switch.

Yeah, they're pretty lo-tech. But they work. And Jaycar at least still
carry tips (at some extortionate price - over $10 each I think). I
stuck some on the end of a US order from Mouser or DigiKey. That's the
only way to justify having a range of shapes/temps. I use mine in the
garage for occasional service work. For production and SMT I use a
much later ($2k) rig.

But think about it. If the tip is about the right temperature (and
those pellets never failed me on that score) and the solder/flux is
good, a new hotrod cannot actually solve your problem. Of course, a
shiny new toy will always be nice but you will still need to solve
your problem. I reckon it's not the iron. It'll have severely
over-cooked old solder on the tip, probably best fixed with a new tip,
and/or a bad choice of solder. Maybe old oxidised dark grey solder? I
agree re the unleaded solder. It's a dog. Unless you're in an RoHS
certified facility leaded will serve you fine. Just get some shiney
new 60/40 solder with fresh flux inside, install a brand new tip and
I'll be astounded if you don't return to your soldering prime. Then
the hormones will kick in and you'll buy a new solder station anyway
along with the doof-doof stereo from DSE and retire the old Weller to
the garage bench like I did.

John,
Soldering since 1960's
Now doing SMT with tweezers and microscope and glasses!
Thank you for the description of the Weller and its tips. It is all coming
back to me. The solder I am using is indeed old, but shiny. It is thin, much
thinner than some other solder I have which is labeled 0.91mm. The tip I am
using is a replacement: Number 7 with a fine point. All the other tips are
grotty and rusty. I will get a chisel and see what happens.

Chisel's fine. I've never been fond of conical points. But get some
fresh solder too. I'm not sure if the resin core has a best-before
date but a new tip and fresh solder must get decent results. I'm just
trying to steer you clear from another disappointing try-and-see
experiment. By doing both at once and tasting success you'll be more
inspired to narrow down the problem!

I for one will be interested to hear where you finally put the blame.

John

 

[L.A.T.]

"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:abqkh493e8o68i24j4oflkhl6nlssjfcq7@4ax.com...

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 10:51:28 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:


"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:q6lih4d2sorh4tj79efu3d8goqgmged80n@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 09:40:31 GMT, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:


"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:fgihh4hf35fbppae8i93prrr74g8k8bmsm@4ax.com...
For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant
environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick
with
60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

I agree with that.

Also, a key to good soldering is to use fine solder. I'm amazed at how
some
people still use the 1mm+ stuff and complain that they can't solder SMD
parts or get too much solder on the joint etc.
0.56mm or smaller is the go, it allows you to better control the amount
of
solder being applied to the joint.

As for tips, forget the conical type, a small chisel is the best general
purpose tip for PCB work.

Dave.


Hi LAT,

Don't give up on your oldie just yet. I agree the later ones are nice
but unless you plan to do production work your oldie will still serve
you well.

The temperature control for these is achieved by an unusual thermostat
mechanism. Each tip has a pellet of special alloy crimped on the back
end. It has a number stamped on it - 6 for 600F, 7 for 700F, etc. The
pellet is magnetic and attracts a magnet towards the back of the tip.
This operates the switch that applies power to the element. When the
temperature reaches the nominal temperature the pellet reaches its
Curie temperature which is where it loses its magnetic properties.
Click, off goes the heat. Then as it cools it regains magnetic
properties. Click, on goes the heat. Simple. Effective. Reliable.

Your iron heats up - so the element is intact. It makes a click so the
magnetic switch is working mechanically at least and it's getting up
to temperature. When it clicks again it must be starting a cooling
cycle so all is fine. If uncertain, simply remove the tip and confirm
that the element doesn't heat up without the pellet to operate the
switch.

Yeah, they're pretty lo-tech. But they work. And Jaycar at least still
carry tips (at some extortionate price - over $10 each I think). I
stuck some on the end of a US order from Mouser or DigiKey. That's the
only way to justify having a range of shapes/temps. I use mine in the
garage for occasional service work. For production and SMT I use a
much later ($2k) rig.

But think about it. If the tip is about the right temperature (and
those pellets never failed me on that score) and the solder/flux is
good, a new hotrod cannot actually solve your problem. Of course, a
shiny new toy will always be nice but you will still need to solve
your problem. I reckon it's not the iron. It'll have severely
over-cooked old solder on the tip, probably best fixed with a new tip,
and/or a bad choice of solder. Maybe old oxidised dark grey solder? I
agree re the unleaded solder. It's a dog. Unless you're in an RoHS
certified facility leaded will serve you fine. Just get some shiney
new 60/40 solder with fresh flux inside, install a brand new tip and
I'll be astounded if you don't return to your soldering prime. Then
the hormones will kick in and you'll buy a new solder station anyway
along with the doof-doof stereo from DSE and retire the old Weller to
the garage bench like I did.

John,
Soldering since 1960's
Now doing SMT with tweezers and microscope and glasses!
Thank you for the description of the Weller and its tips. It is all coming
back to me. The solder I am using is indeed old, but shiny. It is thin,
much
thinner than some other solder I have which is labeled 0.91mm. The tip I
am
using is a replacement: Number 7 with a fine point. All the other tips are
grotty and rusty. I will get a chisel and see what happens.


Chisel's fine. I've never been fond of conical points. But get some
fresh solder too. I'm not sure if the resin core has a best-before
date but a new tip and fresh solder must get decent results. I'm just
trying to steer you clear from another disappointing try-and-see
experiment. By doing both at once and tasting success you'll be more
inspired to narrow down the problem!

I for one will be interested to hear where you finally put the blame.

John

I think my first mistake was switching to a pointed tip in the belief that
the stuff I was soldering was small and needed a small tip.
Ihave dredged up an old chisel-shaped tip and cleaned it up and the
improvement is immediate. I will get a new tip just like it. It is also a
hotter tip than the pointed tip, and that seems to improve things too. I
have some new solder (60/40) and it seems to be better too. Yes, the solder
I was using was something like twenty years old. Finally, I went back to
using a wet sponge tip-cleaner. I had been persuaded to use a little tub of
metal turnings instead.
When I moved to the bush about twenty years ago, I stocked up on all sorts
of things. Solder was one of them. I actually still have an unopened roll.
Dick Smith I think.
So I haven't really finally placed the blame, but my soldering is acceptably
dag-free and I am satisfied.
But I do know whom to thank. Once again I am indebted to the regulars on
this newsgroup.
Thank you all.

 

[John]

On Wed, 12 Nov 2008 09:43:50 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:

"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:abqkh493e8o68i24j4oflkhl6nlssjfcq7@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 10:51:28 GMT, "L.A.T." <tonyt@sci.net.au> wrote:


"John" <john_shaw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:q6lih4d2sorh4tj79efu3d8goqgmged80n@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 09:40:31 GMT, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:


"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:fgihh4hf35fbppae8i93prrr74g8k8bmsm@4ax.com...
For the hobbyist electronics enthusiast there is no significant
environmental
advantage in using lead-free solder so my advice would be to stick
with
60-40
mildly activated flux solder.

I agree with that.

Also, a key to good soldering is to use fine solder. I'm amazed at how
some
people still use the 1mm+ stuff and complain that they can't solder SMD
parts or get too much solder on the joint etc.
0.56mm or smaller is the go, it allows you to better control the amount
of
solder being applied to the joint.

As for tips, forget the conical type, a small chisel is the best general
purpose tip for PCB work.

Dave.


Hi LAT,

Don't give up on your oldie just yet. I agree the later ones are nice
but unless you plan to do production work your oldie will still serve
you well.

The temperature control for these is achieved by an unusual thermostat
mechanism. Each tip has a pellet of special alloy crimped on the back
end. It has a number stamped on it - 6 for 600F, 7 for 700F, etc. The
pellet is magnetic and attracts a magnet towards the back of the tip.
This operates the switch that applies power to the element. When the
temperature reaches the nominal temperature the pellet reaches its
Curie temperature which is where it loses its magnetic properties.
Click, off goes the heat. Then as it cools it regains magnetic
properties. Click, on goes the heat. Simple. Effective. Reliable.

Your iron heats up - so the element is intact. It makes a click so the
magnetic switch is working mechanically at least and it's getting up
to temperature. When it clicks again it must be starting a cooling
cycle so all is fine. If uncertain, simply remove the tip and confirm
that the element doesn't heat up without the pellet to operate the
switch.

Yeah, they're pretty lo-tech. But they work. And Jaycar at least still
carry tips (at some extortionate price - over $10 each I think). I
stuck some on the end of a US order from Mouser or DigiKey. That's the
only way to justify having a range of shapes/temps. I use mine in the
garage for occasional service work. For production and SMT I use a
much later ($2k) rig.

But think about it. If the tip is about the right temperature (and
those pellets never failed me on that score) and the solder/flux is
good, a new hotrod cannot actually solve your problem. Of course, a
shiny new toy will always be nice but you will still need to solve
your problem. I reckon it's not the iron. It'll have severely
over-cooked old solder on the tip, probably best fixed with a new tip,
and/or a bad choice of solder. Maybe old oxidised dark grey solder? I
agree re the unleaded solder. It's a dog. Unless you're in an RoHS
certified facility leaded will serve you fine. Just get some shiney
new 60/40 solder with fresh flux inside, install a brand new tip and
I'll be astounded if you don't return to your soldering prime. Then
the hormones will kick in and you'll buy a new solder station anyway
along with the doof-doof stereo from DSE and retire the old Weller to
the garage bench like I did.

John,
Soldering since 1960's
Now doing SMT with tweezers and microscope and glasses!
Thank you for the description of the Weller and its tips. It is all coming
back to me. The solder I am using is indeed old, but shiny. It is thin,
much
thinner than some other solder I have which is labeled 0.91mm. The tip I
am
using is a replacement: Number 7 with a fine point. All the other tips are
grotty and rusty. I will get a chisel and see what happens.


Chisel's fine. I've never been fond of conical points. But get some
fresh solder too. I'm not sure if the resin core has a best-before
date but a new tip and fresh solder must get decent results. I'm just
trying to steer you clear from another disappointing try-and-see
experiment. By doing both at once and tasting success you'll be more
inspired to narrow down the problem!

I for one will be interested to hear where you finally put the blame.

John

I think my first mistake was switching to a pointed tip in the belief that
the stuff I was soldering was small and needed a small tip.
Ihave dredged up an old chisel-shaped tip and cleaned it up and the
improvement is immediate. I will get a new tip just like it. It is also a
hotter tip than the pointed tip, and that seems to improve things too. I
have some new solder (60/40) and it seems to be better too. Yes, the solder
I was using was something like twenty years old. Finally, I went back to
using a wet sponge tip-cleaner. I had been persuaded to use a little tub of
metal turnings instead.
When I moved to the bush about twenty years ago, I stocked up on all sorts
of things. Solder was one of them. I actually still have an unopened roll.
Dick Smith I think.
So I haven't really finally placed the blame, but my soldering is acceptably
dag-free and I am satisfied.
But I do know whom to thank. Once again I am indebted to the regulars on
this newsgroup.
Thank you all.

Hi LAT,

Yeah, I once bought a beautifully slender tip that looked so graceful
and elegant. I figured it'd do well for fine detailed stuff. It was
useless. Essentially, too thin to conduct heat to the tip, even when
the job wasn't sucking the heat out. The pellet at the sensor end may
have been up to temp but the business end was far too cold. There is a
place for fine tips but short and stocky is the go if you ask me!

John