Craftman Radial Arm Saw

[oldmanmcgee]

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogge
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaf
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. An
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears t
be broken off the on/off switc


--
oldmanmcgee

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 7 Sep 2012 01:26:56 +0000, oldmanmcgee
<oldmanmcgee.a8f0da8@diybanter.com> wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

<http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1082.pdf>
See "runs backwards" and "motor hums" section starting on Pg 6.
There's a relay in there, that probably has fried contacts.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Paul Drahn]

On 9/6/2012 6:26 PM, oldmanmcgee wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

I bought my saw new sometime back in the 1960's. If it doesn't get
used for several years, it acts that way, or squeeks a lot. A good shot
of WD-40 aimed at the bearings frees it up. I think your problem is
usual for the old machine.

Paul

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Fri, 7 Sep 2012 01:26:56 +0000, oldmanmcgee
<oldmanmcgee.a8f0da8@diybanter.com> put finger to keyboard and
composed:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

FYI ...

Instruction Manuals:
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/search?query=craftsman+saw+radial+arm

You can see the exploded diagrams at Sears, eg ...
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Saw-Parts/Model-315220380/0247/0744500?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=315220380

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[N_Cook]

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:j7ni4812ovqm4al8tk53mu6rbnehkei6h7@4ax.com...

On Fri, 7 Sep 2012 01:26:56 +0000, oldmanmcgee
oldmanmcgee.a8f0da8@diybanter.com> wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1082.pdf
See "runs backwards" and "motor hums" section starting on Pg 6.
There's a relay in there, that probably has fried contacts.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Amazing how much saw-dust gets in the switches of such saws , until breaking
contact, probably the same for relays

 

[N_Cook]

I can see the mechanism for dust ingress to switches , not so much for
relays. Switch-casings are not hermetically sealed and the internal pressure
, inside the kit , transfered to the switch innards is probably negative
with a spinning blade , and sucks in fine dust from the air outside.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:k2cnb4$gjo$1@dont-email.me...

I can see the mechanism for dust ingress to switches , not so much
for relays. Switch-casings are not hermetically sealed and the internal
pressure, inside the kit, transfered to the switch innards is probably
negative with a spinning blade, and sucks in fine dust from the air
outside.

The following >>is not<< directed at Mr Cook, but at the way people use
fancy language when simple words will do. (I'm guilty of it myself, and
often have to edit my own writing.)

"I can see the mechanism for dust ingress to switches, not so much for
relays."

should be...

"I can see how dust gets into switches, but it isn't so clear for relays."

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

oldmanmcgee wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

How about a model number? That will help locate a manual, and tell
who made it for Sears. Emerson made a lot of their saws in the past.
Does it have a run capacitor?

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 7 Sep 2012 08:27:21 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:j7ni4812ovqm4al8tk53mu6rbnehkei6h7@4ax.com...
On Fri, 7 Sep 2012 01:26:56 +0000, oldmanmcgee
oldmanmcgee.a8f0da8@diybanter.com> wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1082.pdf
See "runs backwards" and "motor hums" section starting on Pg 6.
There's a relay in there, that probably has fried contacts.

Amazing how much saw-dust gets in the switches of such saws , until breaking
contact, probably the same for relays

A bit more on the saw motor. The relay is inside the motor assembly.
As I vaguely recall, it's an open frame relay. Some of the later saws
used capacitor start motors and didn't have a relay. A few models
have centrifugal switch contacts inside the motor. Whatever the
configuration, tear the motor apart, clean out the crud, burnish the
contacts, possibly replace the starting cazapitor (if present), and it
should work.

My father had a 1960's vintage 10" Craftsman radial arm saw in the
garage. It was an all metal heavy duty monster that was capable of
launching a 2x8 through the garage wall when used improperly (by me).
No safety devices anywhere in sight. I just loved dangerous toys and
became rather attached to the monster. We never had a problem with
it. Eventually, enough sawdust wedged itself around the motor
armature that it began to smoke. Teardown and cleaning but it back
into normal operation. It's still running today at a friends
workshop.

Standard rant: No model number, no model specific information.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jon Elson]

oldmanmcgee wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged
way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft
switched, and continues to switch every time i turn in on and off. Any
Ideas. Tested voltage, that fine. something the key i think, appears to
be broken off the on/off switch

Radial arm saws usually have universal motors. Hard to see how one

of those can run backwards. But, if it is an induction motor, a bad
starting cap could certainly cause that.

Jon

 

[John Robertson]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:k2cnb4$gjo$1@dont-email.me...
I can see the mechanism for dust ingress to switches , not so much
for relays. Switch-casings are not hermetically sealed and the internal
pressure, inside the kit, transfered to the switch innards is probably
negative with a spinning blade, and sucks in fine dust from the air
outside.

The following >>is not<< directed at Mr Cook, but at the way people use
fancy language when simple words will do. (I'm guilty of it myself, and
often have to edit my own writing.)

"I can see the mechanism for dust ingress to switches, not so much for
relays."

should be...

"I can see how dust gets into switches, but it isn't so clear for relays."

Perhaps one should say "How the @#$ does the @#$@#$ dust get into the
@#$@$# relays?"

Some of us prefer to utilize prognostications suitable for Scrabble.

Others not so...(ducking).

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[whit3rd]

On Thursday, September 6, 2012 6:26:56 PM UTC-7, oldmanmcgee wrote:

Bought at garage sale. Plugged it in and it acts at though it is bogged

way down. Turn it off, and tried again. The rotation of the shaft

switched,...

It's probably an induction motor (if it were universal-motor
type, it wouldn't run in reverse). So, it might be the kind
with a centrifugal switch for starting. Probably it just needs
the switch cleaned of accumulated sawdust.

The switch is (usually) operated by a pushrod next to the motor
shaft, inside the motor bell housing.