Coroded Electrical Contacts Restore

[OldGuy]

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[NightcrawlerŽ]

"OldGuy" <OldGuy@spamfree.com> wrote in message news:l6mkn0$e77$1@adenine.netfront.net...

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

They have an anti-corrosion spray for car battery terminals. Clean
the terminals via what is easiest, spray some of the anti-corrosion
on some q-tips and rub on contacts.

If possible remove all pits from contacts since this tends to enhance
corrosion regardless of treatment. Filling and shaping with solder
might be an option if damage to other parts of the device will not
occur. Tricky, so this might not be an option.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 21 Nov 2013 19:57:17 -0800, OldGuy <OldGuy@spamfree.com>
wrote:

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?

Copper contacts?

Grease. Any type that excludes oxygen and water. Keep those out and
the copper won't corrode. Yeah, it's messy, but how often do you
change the batteries?

Bright electroless tin will inhibit corrosion. You won't like the
price:
<http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/tin-plating-kits/electroless-tin-plating-kits.html>
Hot tin plating is cheaper and better, but messy.
<http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/tin-plating-kits/tin-electroplating-kits.html>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

OldGuy wrote:

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?

Remove the corrosion with vinegar or acid (ammonia) based window cleaner.
Put it on with a Q-Tip, let it sit and wipe it off. DO NOT spray it with
anything, including those things sold as contact cleaners.

Once the corrosion is visbaly gone, you can use a real contact cleaner,
such as Cramolin or DeOxit liquids. Again, a little bit on a Q-Tip, wipe
it off with a dry one.

There are electronic contract enhancing compounds that can be applied
sparingly to help it work. Someone else mentioned the ones used for
car batteries, but that IMHO is using a sledge hammer where a gentle tap
is needed.

More suitable to general electronics is Stabilant-22 (very expensive),
or DeOxit makes one for gold plated contacts and one for non gold contacts.

You can buy a kit containg DeOXit, cleaner, contact enhancers, and
fader lube (for lubricating variable resistors) for under $20, it will
last for many years use by the average person.

Not appropos to the original question, I have rescued many bad volume
controls with a drop of DeOxit and a drop of Fader Lube.

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in message
news:slrnl8u4k3.e0g.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...

Remove the corrosion with vinegar or acid (ammonia)-
based window cleaner.

Ammonia is an alkali, not an acid. I've used household ammonia for years, and
never had problems. Once the contacts were cleaned, they stayed clean.

There are disagreements among us as to whether Energizers or Duracells are
more likely to leak. Every modern battery that has leaked in my equipment has
been a Duracell. I don't use them, unless they're the only batteries
available.

 

[dave]

On 11/22/2013 12:19 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

OldGuy wrote:
Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?


Remove the corrosion with vinegar or acid (ammonia) based window cleaner.
Put it on with a Q-Tip, let it sit and wipe it off. DO NOT spray it with
anything, including those things sold as contact cleaners.

Once the corrosion is visbaly gone, you can use a real contact cleaner,
such as Cramolin or DeOxit liquids. Again, a little bit on a Q-Tip, wipe
it off with a dry one.

There are electronic contract enhancing compounds that can be applied
sparingly to help it work. Someone else mentioned the ones used for
car batteries, but that IMHO is using a sledge hammer where a gentle tap
is needed.

More suitable to general electronics is Stabilant-22 (very expensive),
or DeOxit makes one for gold plated contacts and one for non gold contacts.

You can buy a kit containg DeOXit, cleaner, contact enhancers, and
fader lube (for lubricating variable resistors) for under $20, it will
last for many years use by the average person.

Not appropos to the original question, I have rescued many bad volume
controls with a drop of DeOxit and a drop of Fader Lube.

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.

Geoff.

Warning! "Fader Lube" doesn't work on all linear attenuators. It can
make some of them worse, as in stuck. Ammonia is an alkali, higher than
normal pH.

Duracell makes very crappy batteries. "The worse the product the better
the ad campaign." Sennheiser now ships with Energizer. Fry's house brand
batteries leak less than Duracells.

 

[NightcrawlerŽ]

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message news:slrnl8u4k3.e0g.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...

Someone else mentioned the ones used for
car batteries, but that IMHO is using a sledge hammer where a gentle tap
is needed.

Hey! Hammers fix everything!

 

[OldGuy]

"OldGuy" <OldGuy@spamfree.com> wrote in message
news:l6mkn0$e77$1@adenine.netfront.net...
Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA batteries
leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and cannot be easily
removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a diamond tip. I did
this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded. Again cleaned but what
can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place coating or plating?



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

They have an anti-corrosion spray for car battery terminals. Clean
the terminals via what is easiest, spray some of the anti-corrosion
on some q-tips and rub on contacts.

If possible remove all pits from contacts since this tends to enhance
corrosion regardless of treatment. Filling and shaping with solder
might be an option if damage to other parts of the device will not
occur. Tricky, so this might not be an option.

What is in that spray and how does it work?
I have some that I use on car batteries.
I would think that it would insulate the cell from the contact.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Fri, 22 Nov 2013 08:19:14 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.
Geoff.

Why? What's wrong with various cleaners in spray cans (besides the
overspray making a mess)?

They tend to damage the things you are cleaning. Many of them dissovle plastics.
Many of them casuse the wafers in wafer switches to expand and crack.

Geoff.




--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

OK. Do you think it's the propellent in the can that's causing the
damage? I presume everything else in the formulation is the same with
cleaners in a spray or bottle container.

AFAIK it's the cleaners too. DeOxit must be carefully applied and removed.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 22 Nov 2013 09:45:19 -0800, OldGuy <OldGuy@spamnot.com> wrote:

They have an anti-corrosion spray for car battery terminals. Clean
the terminals via what is easiest, spray some of the anti-corrosion
on some q-tips and rub on contacts.

If possible remove all pits from contacts since this tends to enhance
corrosion regardless of treatment. Filling and shaping with solder
might be an option if damage to other parts of the device will not
occur. Tricky, so this might not be an option.

What is in that spray and how does it work?
I have some that I use on car batteries.

Wax or plastic coating, dissolved in various organic solvents.

For example, CRC "battery terminal protector" spray.
<http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05046>
<http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5046.pdf>
63.5% of the contents are organic solvents and propellent:
CAS number Chemical name Common name and synonyms %
68476-86-8 Liquefied Petroleum Gas 20 - 30
64742-49-0 Naphtha (petroleum), Hydrotreated Light 20 - 30
589-34-4 3-Methylhexane 10 - 20
142-82-5 n-Heptane 10 - 20
8009-03-8 Petrolatum 10 - 20
591-76-4 2-Methylhexane 5 - 10
108-87-2 Methylcyclohexane 5 - 10
64741-88-4 Distillates (petroleum),
Solvent-refined Heavy Paraffinic 1 - 3
1330-20-7 Xylene 1 - 3
100-41-4 Ethylbenzene < 1
110-54-3 n-Hexane < 1
The rest is probably some form of acrylic plastic or wax, dissolved in
the above solvents, which coats the terminals. Anything that resists
water, gasoline, grease, oil, and battery acid attack, will work. Add
some red dye so it can be easily seen. The solvents are needed to
clean the terminals, remove engine grease, and help the plastic or wax
to stick to the battery terminals.

>I would think that it would insulate the cell from the contact.

Nope. As long as the wax or plastic coating is sufficiently soft, the
clamping pressure of the battery clamps or screws will push the
coating out of the way and provide a good connection. If the coating
were something quite hard, it might be a different story, but not with
a soft coating. I just notice the that the CRC data sheet shows:
"Provides a lead-free soft protective coating." Note the "soft".


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 22 Nov 2013 08:19:14 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.
Geoff.

Why? What's wrong with various cleaners in spray cans (besides the
overspray making a mess)?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 17:04:14 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 22 Nov 2013 08:19:14 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.
Geoff.

Why? What's wrong with various cleaners in spray cans (besides the
overspray making a mess)?

They tend to damage the things you are cleaning. Many of them dissovle plastics.
Many of them casuse the wafers in wafer switches to expand and crack.
Geoff.

OK. Do you think it's the propellent in the can that's causing the
damage? I presume everything else in the formulation is the same with
cleaners in a spray or bottle container.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[NightcrawlerŽ]

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:63l199lro02lu6lc1q47bftvvnutua36fp@4ax.com...

I would think that it would insulate the cell from the contact.

Nope. As long as the wax or plastic coating is sufficiently soft, the
clamping pressure of the battery clamps or screws will push the
coating out of the way and provide a good connection. If the coating
were something quite hard, it might be a different story, but not with
a soft coating. I just notice the that the CRC data sheet shows:
"Provides a lead-free soft protective coating." Note the "soft".

Odd. Usually the cleaning is done, the termination is made, then the
protective coating is applied.

 

[John Robertson]

On 11/22/2013 12:19 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

OldGuy wrote:
Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA
batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and
cannot be easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a
diamond tip. I did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded.
Again cleaned but what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place
coating or plating?

www.flippers.com/battery.html

John :-#)#

Remove the corrosion with vinegar or acid (ammonia) based window cleaner.
Put it on with a Q-Tip, let it sit and wipe it off. DO NOT spray it with
anything, including those things sold as contact cleaners.

Once the corrosion is visbaly gone, you can use a real contact cleaner,
such as Cramolin or DeOxit liquids. Again, a little bit on a Q-Tip, wipe
it off with a dry one.

There are electronic contract enhancing compounds that can be applied
sparingly to help it work. Someone else mentioned the ones used for
car batteries, but that IMHO is using a sledge hammer where a gentle tap
is needed.

More suitable to general electronics is Stabilant-22 (very expensive),
or DeOxit makes one for gold plated contacts and one for non gold contacts.

You can buy a kit containg DeOXit, cleaner, contact enhancers, and
fader lube (for lubricating variable resistors) for under $20, it will
last for many years use by the average person.

Not appropos to the original question, I have rescued many bad volume
controls with a drop of DeOxit and a drop of Fader Lube.

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A SPRAY.

Geoff.

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 11:44:58 -0600, NightcrawlerŽ
<dirtydeeds@dirtcheap.org> wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:63l199lro02lu6lc1q47bftvvnutua36fp@4ax.com...

I would think that it would insulate the cell from the contact.

Nope. As long as the wax or plastic coating is sufficiently soft, the
clamping pressure of the battery clamps or screws will push the
coating out of the way and provide a good connection. If the coating
were something quite hard, it might be a different story, but not with
a soft coating. I just notice the that the CRC data sheet shows:
"Provides a lead-free soft protective coating." Note the "soft".

Odd. Usually the cleaning is done, the termination is made, then the
protective coating is applied.

Agreed and my apologies for the topic drift. The original question
was about AA batteries in an electronic flash. The question by "Old
Guy" was if an automotive battery terminal protector was suitable. My
best guess(tm) is maybe. I answered without making any distinction
between the two questions.

Apply after connection is the recommended method and the way it's
commonly done with automobile batteries. One does not want any extra
glop between the lead battery post and lead battery terminal. I have
one of those wire brush battery post/terminal cleaning tools for the
purpose.

However, I have done it the wrong way (when I was in a hurry, not
paying attention, distracted, clueless or all the aforementioned)
without ill effects. It worked because before clamping down on the
terminal locking nut, I rotated the terminal on the battery post back
and forth a few times to clean out the red stuff. It worked and no
problems.

However, the OP was asking about AA batteries in an electronic flash,
which doesn't have enough clamping pressure to clean out the wax or
plastic coating at the points of contact. Try to use automobile type
battery terminal protector on a AA spring loaded battery contact, and
there *MAY* be a problem, especially if a thick layer is applied.

I've successfully used grease and wax (furniture polish) to "protect"
battery contacts, mostly in flashlights. If I get a lousy contact, I
just spin the battery in the flashlight or holder. The flashlight
works until the grease or wax creeps into the connection again. I use
white lithium grease mostly because I have a large supply. Anything
that doesn't evaporate should work.

However, if the idea is to inhibit corrosion without coating the
terminals, I again suggest electroless tin to protect the exposed
copper.




--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[NightcrawlerŽ]

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:mh4299dsdhrp9haheau7ga8vvkb11584e3@4ax.com...

Agreed and my apologies for the topic drift. The original question
was about AA batteries in an electronic flash. The question by "Old
Guy" was if an automotive battery terminal protector was suitable. My
best guess(tm) is maybe. I answered without making any distinction
between the two questions.

<snip>

No biggie, and I understand what you were stating.

 

[dave]

On 11/23/2013 10:09 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

OK. Do you think it's the propellent in the can that's causing the
damage? I presume everything else in the formulation is the same with
cleaners in a spray or bottle container.

AFAIK it's the cleaners too. DeOxit must be carefully applied and removed.

Geoff.

The cotton tip swab is your friend. Does anyone have any Davenol?

 

[Wild_Bill]

Ordinary spiraled spring-type replacement contacts are available from variou
suppliers. Original contacts are generally made from steel, then plated with
copper and nickel or possibly a chrome-like plating.

Many repairs require disassembly as leaking chemcas can wick into power
leads, which will often result in a chronic corrosion problem, even if the
contacts are cleaned, or the power leads might simply continue to rot.

If corroded contacts can't be thoroughly cleaned or are too far gone,
fabricating new contacts from nickel may be a worthwhile, more permanent
repair.
Nickel (round) wire is available a german silver wire for making jewelry,
and flat nickel available in strips or coils/rollls for strapping
rechargeable battery cells together to make battery packs.

Nickel easily accepts solder allowing power leads to be attached.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"OldGuy" <OldGuy@spamfree.com> wrote in message
news:l6mkn0$e77$1@adenine.netfront.net...

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA batteries
leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and cannot be
easily removed. I have cleaned the metal contacts using a diamond tip. I
did this a few months ago and the contacts re-corroded. Again cleaned but
what can I do to retard corrosion? Some in place coating or plating?



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[whit3rd]

On Thursday, November 21, 2013 7:57:17 PM UTC-8, OldGuy wrote:

Electronic flash has corroded electrical contacts. Duracell AA

batteries leaked. The contacts are molded into a plastic holder and

cannot be easily removed.

Probably the little springs are steel, with a bright nickel or
chrome plated coating (sometimes copper). If the plating has
come off, your best replacement would be...
solder.

Clean, flux (an acid flux, like for stainless steel, works best) and
then tin the spring's contact end with a soldering iron, using
tin/silver solder. Then, of course, rinse the area (to get rid of the flux).
Steel isn't a great conductor of heat, a second or two with the
soldering iron won't melt the plastic.