Component suggestion...

[gareth]

Hi,

I'm trying to build a handheld gaming device using a PIC16F887 with
an
LCD screen.


Although the PIC will run at lower voltages the LCD requires 5V.


I want to power the device with a maximum of 4AAA batteries which
will
provice a voltage of between 4.8V and 6V. I am quite happy to reduce
the number of batteries...


I'm looking for a voltage regulator that will provide me with a
constant output voltage of 5V with an input voltage ranging from 4.8V
to 6V (possibly lower depending on the regulator).


The greatest current draw will be the LCD backlight which draws
200mA.


Unfortunately I am unable to solder surface mount components so I
really require something with a DIP package or similar.


Can anyone suggest a solution??


Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


gareth

 

[Brendan Gillatt]

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gareth wrote:

Hi,

I'm trying to build a handheld gaming device using a PIC16F887 with
an
LCD screen.


Although the PIC will run at lower voltages the LCD requires 5V.

I'm guessing this is a TTL serial LCD. FWIW these tend to be rather
expensive for what they consist of.

One of my favourite LCDs is the Nokia 6100 screen. Sparkfun.com does a
nice breakout board and led boost converter for it. It runs at 3.3v
simplifying battery powered design significantly.

I want to power the device with a maximum of 4AAA batteries which
will
provice a voltage of between 4.8V and 6V. I am quite happy to reduce
the number of batteries...

I'm looking for a voltage regulator that will provide me with a
constant output voltage of 5V with an input voltage ranging from 4.8V
to 6V (possibly lower depending on the regulator).

4.8v suggest that a boost converter is required. Again, using 3.3v for
the lot means that a simple LDO will suffice.

The greatest current draw will be the LCD backlight which draws
200mA.


Unfortunately I am unable to solder surface mount components so I
really require something with a DIP package or similar.

There are several places which produce packaged boost converters, Maxim
and National come to mind. I'm sure they will supply in DIP. Surface
mount isn't all that bad with a good iron. Instructables.com has a nice
introductory article for it somewhere.

- --
Brendan Gillatt
brendan {at} brendangillatt {dot} co {dot} uk
http://www.brendangillatt.co.uk
PGP Key: http://pgp.mit.edu:11371/pks/lookup?op=get&search=0xBACD7433
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[gareth]

On 20 Nov, 15:44, Brendan Gillatt
<brendanREMOVET...@brendanREMOVETHISgillatt.co.uk> wrote:

I'm guessing this is a TTL serial LCD. FWIW these tend to be rather
expensive for what they consist of.

One of my favourite LCDs is the Nokia 6100 screen. Sparkfun.com does a
nice breakout board and led boost converter for it. It runs at 3.3v
simplifying battery powered design significantly.


4.8v suggest that a boost converter is required. Again, using 3.3v for
the lot means that a simple LDO will suffice.


There are several places which produce packaged boost converters, Maxim
and National come to mind. I'm sure they will supply in DIP. Surface
mount isn't all that bad with a good iron. Instructables.com has a nice
introductory article for it somewhere.

- --
Brendan Gillatt

Hi Brendan,

It was quite cheap actually - it's surplus stock on only cost me Ł5
($10 at the current exchange rate).

I've tried using phone LCD's but I can't solder to the tiny connectors
- I've killed two so far and got rather put off!! Couldn't find what
you meant at Sparkfun - I'm in the uk anyway so postage would be
prohibitive.

I've looked at their sites but can't seem to find DIP versions. Maxim
do one that they're sending me a sample of (MAX619) but it's low
current output (just 50mA) and has limited Vin (2 - 3.6) which is
difficult with Ni-Mh batteries that tend to charge to somewhree
between 1.2 and 1.4 volts...

Thanks for the reply though

gareth

 

[Brendan Gillatt]

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

gareth wrote:

On 20 Nov, 15:44, Brendan Gillatt
brendanREMOVET...@brendanREMOVETHISgillatt.co.uk> wrote:
I'm guessing this is a TTL serial LCD. FWIW these tend to be rather
expensive for what they consist of.

One of my favourite LCDs is the Nokia 6100 screen. Sparkfun.com does a
nice breakout board and led boost converter for it. It runs at 3.3v
simplifying battery powered design significantly.


4.8v suggest that a boost converter is required. Again, using 3.3v for
the lot means that a simple LDO will suffice.


There are several places which produce packaged boost converters, Maxim
and National come to mind. I'm sure they will supply in DIP. Surface
mount isn't all that bad with a good iron. Instructables.com has a nice
introductory article for it somewhere.

- --
Brendan Gillatt

Hi Brendan,

It was quite cheap actually - it's surplus stock on only cost me Ł5
($10 at the current exchange rate).

Ł5 - wow! Where on earth from?

I've tried using phone LCD's but I can't solder to the tiny connectors
- I've killed two so far and got rather put off!!

I don't blame you. That's why I stick with my trusty breakout boards =]

Couldn't find what
you meant at Sparkfun - I'm in the uk anyway so postage would be
prohibitive.

Same here! Postage was only Ł3 or so if I remember correctly. The guys at
sparkfun package properly: I had a samples package arrive from TI this
morning about 30cm x 20cm x 25cm for ten SOT-23 chips.

They do many different sorts of LCDs at
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?cPath=76.

I've looked at their sites but can't seem to find DIP versions. Maxim
do one that they're sending me a sample of (MAX619) but it's low
current output (just 50mA) and has limited Vin (2 - 3.6) which is
difficult with Ni-Mh batteries that tend to charge to somewhree
between 1.2 and 1.4 volts...

Thanks for the reply though

gareth

- --
Brendan Gillatt
brendan {at} brendangillatt {dot} co {dot} uk
http://www.brendangillatt.co.uk
PGP Key: http://pgp.mit.edu:11371/pks/lookup?op=get&search=0xBACD7433
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[gareth]

Ł5 - wow! Where on earth from?
Ebay of course!! It's only monochrome and the backlight's a bit dodgy

but for testing and prototyping it does the job...

I've tried using phone LCD's but I can't solder to the tiny connectors
- I've killed two so far and got rather put off!!

I don't blame you. That's why I stick with my trusty breakout boards =]

Being really dumb - what's a breakout board and where can I get one??