CFL ballast polarity?

[J.C.]

Is it a general rule that a compact fluorescent light bulb will not work at
all if the 120V AC polarity is wrong? Or might it work for a time and fail
unexpectedly? Also, is the center pin usually black/hot?

This is in regard to installing a semi-antique light fixture that was never
designed specifically for CFLs. Thanks.

Jim

 

[Dave M]

"J.C." <erst@while.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9C2E717734368erstwhilecom@74.209.131.13...

Is it a general rule that a compact fluorescent light bulb will not work
at
all if the 120V AC polarity is wrong? Or might it work for a time and fail
unexpectedly? Also, is the center pin usually black/hot?

This is in regard to installing a semi-antique light fixture that was
never
designed specifically for CFLs. Thanks.

Jim

Jim,
A CFL is a two-terminal device. It doesn't know, nor does it care which
color wire is connected to its center pin or threaded base. It will even
work if the ground and neutral are reversed (assuming that ground and
neutral are solidly connected in the breaker panel or fusebox). So long as
there is a complete circuit for the current to flow, and sufficient voltage
is present, it will work.
However, electronic devices are subject to failure at any time, especially
CFLs, which haven't shown a high reliability track record as yet. Other
factors to be considered in determining reliability and causes of failure of
CFLs include mounting position, ventilation, AC supply cleanliness (lack or
presence of damaging surges, spikes, sags, etc.) and operating temperature,
to name a few.

Cheers

--
HAM AND EGGS -- A day's work for a chicken, a lifetime commitment for a pig.

Dave M

 

[Wild_Bill]

Any 120 VAC-rated CF lamp should work properly in a socket wired for 120VAC.

Reading about the differences between AC and DC should clear up the polarity
question for you.

As far as conventional wiring in the USA..

All or most presently made lighting fixtures/lamps are wired with the center
contact going to the switch, then to line/hot. All newer fixtures/lamps have
polarized plugs on the cords (one plug blade wider than the other, with the
wider one being neutral).
The outer/threaded portion of the socket is neutral (not hot/line) so that
if a persons' fingers were to contact the threaded base of the bulb/lamp,
they would not receive a shock, eliminating the likelyhood of accidental
electrocution.

Antique lighting fixtures/lamps didn't have polarized plugs on the power
cords, so the contacts in the sockets may have been either hot or neutral.
Unless an old lighting fixture is being wired for historical accuracy
(museum, historical film or toured historical building), the old
non-polarized power cord should be replaced with a polarized power cord, and
wired properly with the hot lead connected to the switch, and the lead from
the switch connected to the center contact of the socket(s) and the neutral
lead properly connected to the threaded portion.

If any of this is even slightly unclear to you, you need to get the help of
a qualified and experienced person with an electrical background, to
eliminate any possibility of creating a potential shock hazard.
A qualified person will be familiar with the proper types of wiring and
connections required for a safe repair.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"J.C." <erst@while.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9C2E717734368erstwhilecom@74.209.131.13...

Is it a general rule that a compact fluorescent light bulb will not work
at
all if the 120V AC polarity is wrong? Or might it work for a time and fail
unexpectedly? Also, is the center pin usually black/hot?

This is in regard to installing a semi-antique light fixture that was
never
designed specifically for CFLs. Thanks.

Jim

 

[J.C.]

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in
news:F1w_l.221806$Tp1.201793@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com:

Any 120 VAC-rated CF lamp should work properly in a socket wired for
120VAC.

Reading about the differences between AC and DC should clear up the
polarity question for you.

"Polarity" is just a loose term, if not technically precise for AC.

This is an old lamp to be installed in a ceiling fixture. It has two black
wires with no obvious hot vs. neutral. I'll just do a continuity check for
the center post and make that wire hot.

Jim

 

[Wild_Bill]

Any old wiring should be/needs to be replaced, especially any that has any
brittle insulation.

Old rubber insulated and/or fabric covered wire should not be in use today.
A few feet of proper temperature rated, new appliance wire probably won't
even cost $5, and allows the old lighting fixtures to be brought up to
today's standards.

Any time vintage or antique equipment is reused, it should be fully
inspected for secure contacts/connections. Any corroded or pitted electrical
connectors should be discarded and replaced with updated parts. Ordinary
oxidation can be cleaned off of the electrical connectors to insure clean,
low resistance connections that won't overheat and fail.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............

"J.C." <erst@while.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9C2E8DF902712erstwhilecom@74.209.131.13...

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in
news:F1w_l.221806$Tp1.201793@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com:

Any 120 VAC-rated CF lamp should work properly in a socket wired for
120VAC.

Reading about the differences between AC and DC should clear up the
polarity question for you.

"Polarity" is just a loose term, if not technically precise for AC.

This is an old lamp to be installed in a ceiling fixture. It has two black
wires with no obvious hot vs. neutral. I'll just do a continuity check for
the center post and make that wire hot.

Jim

 

[TimR]

On Jun 18, 6:52 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

Old rubber insulated and/or fabric covered wire should not be in use today.
A few feet of proper temperature rated, new appliance wire probably won't
even cost $5, and allows the old lighting fixtures to be brought up to
today's standards.

I hate to get too far off topic, but I have a comment on this.

I replaced plugs on several multivoltage appliances this year because
I couldn't find adaptors locally.

Buying new wire is easy. Buying a quality plug for the end of it, on
the other hand, is difficult to impossible. I tried all the local big
box stores, plus the specialty hardware stores, all anybody had was
cheap offshore junk. Maybe the electrical contractor dealers have
better stuff, but they don't sell to everybody.

 

[Bob Larter]

J.C. wrote:

Is it a general rule that a compact fluorescent light bulb will not work at
all if the 120V AC polarity is wrong?

"Polarity"?

Or might it work for a time and fail
unexpectedly? Also, is the center pin usually black/hot?

This is in regard to installing a semi-antique light fixture that was never
designed specifically for CFLs. Thanks.

It should work fine either way.


--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Wild_Bill]

Finding high quality plugs and receptacles isn't difficult here, there are
still other real distributors here that primarily sell to contractors or
maintenance organizations, but also welcome consumers that know and
appreciate high grade components.

I can get Hubbell and other better grade parts, and even medical grade power
cord parts, by walking in and asking for them, without having to place
special orders or ordering online/phone orders and waiting.

The big box/borg stores carry replacement power cords suitable for power
tools and many appliances. Some of them are low quality, although some have
solid brass plug blades (not folded over thin brass sheetmetal) and SJ
jackets with heavier gauge wire.
If I see some 8-10 ft extension cords that appear to be durable (even though
you never really know about molded cord ends), I sometimes buy them and end
up cutting off the receptacle end to use the cord as a replaement power
cord.

The key to most of this stuff related to simple repairs, is to buy these
components any time you see them, so you don't have to try to find them when
they're needed.
I've bought new in-package stuff from flea markets, garage sales and on eBay
at drastically reduced prices. Some materials can be trusted if they are
new, but other components like circuit breakers, GFCI receptacles, I'll only
buy from established loal retailers.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"TimR" <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote in message
news:5edbf07e-db33-4ed3-9236-f6b81070700d@n19g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 18, 6:52 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

Old rubber insulated and/or fabric covered wire should not be in use
today.
A few feet of proper temperature rated, new appliance wire probably won't
even cost $5, and allows the old lighting fixtures to be brought up to
today's standards.

I hate to get too far off topic, but I have a comment on this.

I replaced plugs on several multivoltage appliances this year because
I couldn't find adaptors locally.

Buying new wire is easy. Buying a quality plug for the end of it, on
the other hand, is difficult to impossible. I tried all the local big
box stores, plus the specialty hardware stores, all anybody had was
cheap offshore junk. Maybe the electrical contractor dealers have
better stuff, but they don't sell to everybody.

 

[Frank]

On Jun 19, 2:33 am, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

Finding high quality plugs and receptacles isn't difficult here, there are
still other real distributors here that primarily sell to contractors or
maintenance organizations, but also welcome consumers that know and
appreciate high grade components.

I can get Hubbell and other better grade parts, and even medical grade power
cord parts, by walking in and asking for them, without having to place
special orders or ordering online/phone orders and waiting.

The big box/borg stores carry replacement power cords suitable for power
tools and many appliances. Some of them are low quality, although some have
solid brass plug blades (not folded over thin brass sheetmetal) and SJ
jackets with heavier gauge wire.
If I see some 8-10 ft extension cords that appear to be durable (even though
you never really know about molded cord ends), I sometimes buy them and end
up cutting off the receptacle end to use the cord as a replaement power
cord.

The key to most of this stuff related to simple repairs, is to buy these
components any time you see them, so you don't have to try to find them when
they're needed.
I've bought new in-package stuff from flea markets, garage sales and on eBay
at drastically reduced prices. Some materials can be trusted if they are
new, but other components like circuit breakers, GFCI receptacles, I'll only
buy from established loal retailers.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"TimR" <timothy...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:5edbf07e-db33-4ed3-9236-f6b81070700d@n19g2000vba.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 18, 6:52 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:> Old rubber insulated and/or fabric covered wire should not be in use
today.
A few feet of proper temperature rated, new appliance wire probably won't
even cost $5, and allows the old lighting fixtures to be brought up to
today's standards.

I hate to get too far off topic, but I have a comment on this.

I replaced plugs on several multivoltage appliances this year because
I couldn't find adaptors locally.

Buying new wire is easy.  Buying a quality plug for the end of it, on
the other hand, is difficult to impossible.  I tried all the local big
box stores, plus the specialty hardware stores, all anybody had was
cheap offshore junk.  Maybe the electrical contractor dealers have
better stuff, but they don't sell to everybody.

Buy a cheap extension cord and cut off the female end.

Cheaper is to always carry a wire cutter and stop at
every curbside junk pile. Throw away nothing electrical
without first taking the cord.

 

[David Nebenzahl]

On 6/20/2009 7:17 PM Frank spake thus:

Buy a cheap extension cord and cut off the female end.

Cheaper is to always carry a wire cutter and stop at
every curbside junk pile. Throw away nothing electrical
without first taking the cord.

I do that all the time. I never have to buy power cords.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

 

[Victor Roberts]

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 18:09:16 +0000, "J.C." <erst@while.com>
wrote:

Is it a general rule that a compact fluorescent light bulb will not work at
all if the 120V AC polarity is wrong? Or might it work for a time and fail
unexpectedly? Also, is the center pin usually black/hot?

No. the lamp does not care which AC line goes to which pin.

This is in regard to installing a semi-antique light fixture that was never
designed specifically for CFLs. Thanks.

Jim

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

 

[Jeff Jonas]

I hate to get too far off topic, but I have a comment on this.

I replaced plugs on several multivoltage appliances this year because
I couldn't find adaptors locally.

Buying new wire is easy. Buying a quality plug for the end of it, on
the other hand, is difficult to impossible.

AMEN!
We're starting to sound like Algernon
(the mad scientist from the Beatles' movie "HELP")
It's the plugs, you know . . . must use good British plugs . . .

I have a box of huge machine/industrial 3-prong plugs
with strain relief for huge wires
but they're overkill for most things.
And the hang-tab Eagle Electric household ones with NO strain relief.
Nothing in between.

 

[Jeff Jonas]

Any old wiring should be/needs to be replaced,
especially any that has any brittle insulation ...
Any time vintage or antique equipment is reused, it should be fully
inspected for secure contacts/connections.

I was mildly shocked by an old ceiling lamp (fixture?)
by the turn-switch built into an Edison socket's base.
The knob was originally plastic coated with a metal rod inside,
but enough of the plastic wore off
for the metal to make contact with something "hot" and to me.
I'm unsure if it was somehow touching the side,
or directly conducting from the center-pin-switch.
but it was not something obvious from inspection!

 

[Jeff Jonas]

In article <2jG_l.166054$Lo1.135868@en-nntp-04.dc1.easynews.com>,
Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

If I see some 8-10 ft extension cords that appear to be durable (even though
you never really know about molded cord ends), I sometimes buy them and end
up cutting off the receptacle end to use the cord as a replaement power
cord.

A neighbor did that, discarding 26 feet of the outlet end,
so I attached a plug and I've got a nice extension cord.

I've bought new in-package stuff from flea markets, garage sales and on eBay
at drastically reduced prices.

That's why I have a box of new high quality plugs waiting for uses:
cheap at a garage sale.