Blocked ink-jet nozzles

[N_Cook]

2 Canons, MP272 and MP495
Both unused for years, both the same total lack of yellow printing. ,
either m/c even swapping carts. Folded tissue dampened with cleaning
fluid, pressed against the nozzle plate, suggestive of not being a
lock-in "fault".
2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Stephen Wolstenholme]

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 07:22:11 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
<pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

The only ultrasonic cleaner I have had experience with is used by my
dentist!

--
http://www.npsnn.com

 

[N_Cook]

On 23/10/2017 15:22, pfjw@aol.com wrote:

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

 

[John Robertson]

On 2017/10/23 7:52 AM, N_Cook wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with a
round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you
could more easily refill in the future.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Mike Coon]

In article <O_adnamMOd97sHPEnZ2dnUU7-UHNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
spam@flippers.com says...

Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with
a
round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you
could more easily refill in the future.

John :-#)#

Can you pour toner through a hole without mess? (Only laser printers
I've ever used have been looked after for me!)

Mike.

 

[John Robertson]

On 2017/10/23 12:01 PM, Mike Coon wrote:

In article <O_adnamMOd97sHPEnZ2dnUU7-UHNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
spam@flippers.com says...

Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with
a
round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you
could more easily refill in the future.

John :-#)#

Can you pour toner through a hole without mess? (Only laser printers
I've ever used have been looked after for me!)

Mike.

Yes, toner bottle has a screw on funnel. So the mess factor is minor if
at all.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.

My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric

 

[N_Cook]

My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

There seems to be a hydrophobic surface to the nozzle plate of these
carts, I suppose some sort of nano material coating

 

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <d7c086c9-5667-4da8-996e-7ca82b60aee3@googlegroups.com>,
makolber@yahoo.com says...

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m

That is what I did. Found an all in one laser printer on sale. I just
got tired of having the HP printres quit because the ink was too old.
I really like the options on the Samsung I got. It will automatically
print on both sides or I can reduce the print and put 2 or more pages on
only one side of the paper.

 

[John-Del]

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m

Totally agree. My last freaking piece of shit printer was an Epson. The damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave it it's cyan fix.

My first printer was a HP Deskjet 500 and that thing would print tons of pages, was silent as the night, and never gave me trouble. I stupidly retired it when color injets became cheaper. That was the beginning of the printer wars with me as the French resistance.

I picked up a cheap HP B&W laser printer two years ago and won't ever look back. I don't need color and I don't need to worry about half full ink cartridges jamming up or refusing to identify themselves as authentic Epson cartridges. The laser printer is the closest thing to my old Deskjet for reliablility, and it's a hell of a lot faster than any comparable injet.

 

[Ian Field]

<etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:nhlsucplg180lvqcb37i0m6mu613oav4no@4ax.com...

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.
My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.
Eric

I use the refilling syringe on the felt pad - but it has to be done slowly.

 

[Ian Field]

"John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:240c0de2-ab6c-4388-86c4-cb89d1457786@googlegroups.com...

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an
inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m

Totally agree. My last freaking piece of shit printer was an Epson. The
damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would
it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave
it it's cyan fix.

My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.

 

On Tuesday, 24 October 2017 19:51:44 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:

"John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:240c0de2-ab6c-4388-86c4-cb89d1457786@googlegroups.com...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:

For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a
dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the
syringe.

if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an
inexpensive LASER printer.

Much less hassle

m

Totally agree. My last freaking piece of shit printer was an Epson. The
damned thing said it was down on one color (allegedly) and not only would
it refuse to print in B&W, but refused to even scan documents until I gave
it it's cyan fix.

My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.

I fitted mine with a re-inker. But eventually ribbon wear causes pin jam.


NT

 

[Colin Horsley]

On 25/10/2017 10:00, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, 24 October 2017 19:51:44 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:
"John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:240c0de2-ab6c-4388-86c4-cb89d1457786@googlegroups.com...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:


My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.

I fitted mine with a re-inker. But eventually ribbon wear causes pin jam.


NT

Tell me more about the re-inker.
I am still using an NEC Pinwriter P5200 !!

Colin

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

 

On Wednesday, 25 October 2017 00:07:04 UTC+1, Colin Horsley wrote:

On 25/10/2017 10:00, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 October 2017 19:51:44 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:
"John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:240c0de2-ab6c-4388-86c4-cb89d1457786@googlegroups.com...
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 9:47:29 AM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:


My last Epson was DM with a ribbon cartridge.

I fitted mine with a re-inker. But eventually ribbon wear causes pin jam.


Tell me more about the re-inker.
I am still using an NEC Pinwriter P5200 !!

Colin

Ah, multipart forms presumably. Put a full height pad inside the cart where the ribbon would be pulled past it, either on the ribbon output or input, I forget which. Drilled a hole in the cart top for ink & countersunk it. You can go further by adding a tiny plastic offcut to act as a miniature funnel. Now just put however many drops of ink in the funnel and it reinks the ribbon as you go. There is some tendency to reink a third of the length and not the rest, so little & often rather than one big glug.

ISTR a mix of printer's ink & meths being good, though you can use cheaper mixes. I'm pretty sure I used to use paraffin as the liquid base. You can add ready made ink or a cheap dye.

Violet is cheapest but fades right away in time. Costs vary a lot per colour. They're the same price per gram but violet goes a lot further than black.. For dark colours, mix red, green, etc then add a little black to darken it.
Here we go: blue is the cheapest permanent colour.
Pence per amount of result:
violet 13
blue 17
red 21
green 25
yellow 35
black ÂŁ1
brown ÂŁ2.36

There is a major problem with reinking to beware of. As the ribbon wears at some point it can catch a pin occasionally. This kills print heads, don't overdo the reinking.


NT

 

<et...@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:nhlsucplg180lvqcb37i0m6mu613oav4no@4ax.com...

On Mon, 23 Oct 2017 15:52:37 +0100, N_Cook <div...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/10/2017 15:22, pf...@aol.com wrote:
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 9:42:45 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:

2 minutes in an ultrasonic bath ,canted over to the yellow side, in
methylated spirits. Both now fine photo-grade output, with refilled
carts.

Yes. Ultrasonic cleaners can be very close to magic if properly applied.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Mine gets very little use, but the top, conveniently glass for would-be
viewing, is all crazed/micro-fractured?
Is that common with such cleaners, partially self destructing?
If I want to see whats going on, I have to find a piece of glass or
perspex to cover over the dancing fluid fountains.

I should have said , with the damp tissue test, showing yellow staining
on the tissue. Also locked-in , meaning makers trying to defeat cart
refilling, to force purchase from them.
Another tip, I don't see with ink refill kits, they always seem to say
drill in . That must leave plastic swarf inside. I use a conical
soldering iron tip at the breather hole , to melt in. Then when closing
, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue
around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled
away the next time.
My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the
inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the
one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the
absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the
printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to
watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface
almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets
fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the
cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to
add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe.

A b&w laser no-ink printer does seem like the best bet.