Best way to use DC current rise as off switch?

My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

 

[Kaz Kylheku]

On 2014-02-25, etpm@whidbey.com <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote:

My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window.

Which is a good thing; children are hurt (and even killed!) by those.

So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but

This will be annoying to the users who just want to open the window part of the
way, but the darned thing won't stop! You have a great solution; just perhaps
not a problem to go with it. It's simply not a big problem to hold a switch
until the window rolls down. Some cars stil have manual cranks!

Still, nice little project, what the heck.

now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,

How about a microcontroller which interprets the switch closure
as an abstract command? If you press it and hold it, the window rolls down
while you are holding it, then stops when you release it. However, a fast
double-click (just like with a mouse button) could mean "roll down all the way
by yourself". Bonus: a click while it is doing that would cancel the
roll-down. (Handling double-clicks means there will be a small delay in the
response before the continuous hold is detected and the window begins to roll.)

All that logic done in firmware, and the real switch is now some transistors
driven by GPIO pins.

An important requirement to think about would be safety: that the system never
goes into a mode where the window unconditionally rolls all the way up,
either through a fault in the software or hardware. (Stuck GPIO pins,
shorted transistors ...).

I would even make the roll-up "piecewise". If you pull the switch up and hold
it, it rolls up for two or three seconds, and then stops. You have to release
the switch and activate it again to keep closing.

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <l8spg9tsn8s2gv8ipj90rs0un7r4khltej@4ax.com>,
etpm@whidbey.com says...

My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

For simplicity and isolation of HV kick backs from the motor, you can
use a reed switch with the proper number of turns of wire that
runs the motor, around it.

When the contacts close from excessive current, it pulls the RESET pin
low on the 555 timer.

There's more to be done but that should get you started.

Jamie

 

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:44:16 +0000 (UTC), Kaz Kylheku
<kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:

On 2014-02-25, etpm@whidbey.com <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote:
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window.

Which is a good thing; children are hurt (and even killed!) by those.

So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but

This will be annoying to the users who just want to open the window part of the
way, but the darned thing won't stop! You have a great solution; just perhaps
not a problem to go with it. It's simply not a big problem to hold a switch
until the window rolls down. Some cars stil have manual cranks!

Still, nice little project, what the heck.

now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,

How about a microcontroller which interprets the switch closure
as an abstract command? If you press it and hold it, the window rolls down
while you are holding it, then stops when you release it. However, a fast
double-click (just like with a mouse button) could mean "roll down all the way
by yourself". Bonus: a click while it is doing that would cancel the
roll-down. (Handling double-clicks means there will be a small delay in the
response before the continuous hold is detected and the window begins to roll.)

All that logic done in firmware, and the real switch is now some transistors
driven by GPIO pins.

An important requirement to think about would be safety: that the system never
goes into a mode where the window unconditionally rolls all the way up,
either through a fault in the software or hardware. (Stuck GPIO pins,
shorted transistors ...).

I would even make the roll-up "piecewise". If you pull the switch up and hold
it, it rolls up for two or three seconds, and then stops. You have to release
the switch and activate it again to keep closing.

Well Kaz, a microcontroller would be just too much overkill, too
expensive, and besides, as I mentioned above, I already built the 555
timer device. Which is simple and robust. The device shuts down when
power is removed of course, and since it switches the power to
whatever it is controlling whatever shuts it down shuts down the
controlled device, in this case the window motor. The 555 timer device
needs to be powered from more than just a momentary switch closure, so
someone just stabbing at the window switch won't cause it to continue
up, or down, on its own.
Eric

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On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:17:49 -0500, "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."
<jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote:

In article <l8spg9tsn8s2gv8ipj90rs0un7r4khltej@4ax.com>,
etpm@whidbey.com says...

My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

For simplicity and isolation of HV kick backs from the motor, you can
use a reed switch with the proper number of turns of wire that
runs the motor, around it.

When the contacts close from excessive current, it pulls the RESET pin
low on the 555 timer.

There's more to be done but that should get you started.

Jamie

Greetings Jamie,
I like that idea. The timer I put together, once power is removed,
will not cycle back on unless power is supplied for at least two
seconds. I wonder if reed switches are available that are normally on?
That would be simple and best. It would be best, from a safety
standpoint, for the shutting off to be accomplished by power being
removed from something, not supplied instead. This way a broken wire
won't defeat the shutoff. I'm used to limit switches, emergency
switches, contactors and the like operating this way on the machine
toold I use every day.
Cheers,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

 

[Tim Wescott]

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 18:11:25 -0800, etpm wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:44:16 +0000 (UTC), Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com
wrote:

On 2014-02-25, etpm@whidbey.com <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote:
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window.

Which is a good thing; children are hurt (and even killed!) by those.

So I was thinking that I could use a 555 circuit that would sense the
switch being on and after it was on for a few seconds the timer would
keep the window motor energized until power was removed. So I built
the timer circuit but

This will be annoying to the users who just want to open the window part
of the way, but the darned thing won't stop! You have a great solution;
just perhaps not a problem to go with it. It's simply not a big problem
to hold a switch until the window rolls down. Some cars stil have
manual cranks!

Still, nice little project, what the heck.

now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,

How about a microcontroller which interprets the switch closure as an
abstract command? If you press it and hold it, the window rolls down
while you are holding it, then stops when you release it. However, a
fast double-click (just like with a mouse button) could mean "roll down
all the way by yourself". Bonus: a click while it is doing that would
cancel the roll-down. (Handling double-clicks means there will be a
small delay in the response before the continuous hold is detected and
the window begins to roll.)

All that logic done in firmware, and the real switch is now some
transistors driven by GPIO pins.

An important requirement to think about would be safety: that the system
never goes into a mode where the window unconditionally rolls all the
way up,
either through a fault in the software or hardware. (Stuck GPIO pins,
shorted transistors ...).

I would even make the roll-up "piecewise". If you pull the switch up and
hold it, it rolls up for two or three seconds, and then stops. You have
to release the switch and activate it again to keep closing.
Well Kaz, a microcontroller would be just too much overkill, too
expensive, and besides, as I mentioned above, I already built the 555
timer device. Which is simple and robust. The device shuts down when
power is removed of course, and since it switches the power to whatever
it is controlling whatever shuts it down shuts down the controlled
device, in this case the window motor. The 555 timer device needs to be
powered from more than just a momentary switch closure, so someone just
stabbing at the window switch won't cause it to continue up, or down, on
its own.

LM555 in 8-pin DIP: $0.33
Two resistors and a cap: $0.05
board space for it all: $0.53
total: $0.91

PIC12 in 8-pin DIP: $0.70
Board space for it all: $0.27
total: $0.97

Damn. You're right -- the microprocessor _is_ more expensive!

Unless you need more than two resistors and a cap for the 555 solution.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <doadnXyBycCV0pDOnZ2dnUVZ5q2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
tim@seemywebsite.really says...

LM555 in 8-pin DIP: $0.33
Two resistors and a cap: $0.05
board space for it all: $0.53
total: $0.91

PIC12 in 8-pin DIP: $0.70
Board space for it all: $0.27
total: $0.97

Damn. You're right -- the microprocessor _is_ more expensive!

Unless you need more than two resistors and a cap for the 555 solution.

--

Plus the cost of the programmer, possible need for a USB-RS233 etc..

Jamie

 

[John G]

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :

My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

--
John G

 

[Tim Wescott]

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 21:33:31 -0500, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:

In article <doadnXyBycCV0pDOnZ2dnUVZ5q2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
tim@seemywebsite.really says...

LM555 in 8-pin DIP: $0.33 Two resistors and a cap: $0.05 board
space for it all: $0.53 total: $0.91

PIC12 in 8-pin DIP: $0.70 Board space for it all: $0.27 total:
$0.97

Damn. You're right -- the microprocessor _is_ more expensive!

Unless you need more than two resistors and a cap for the 555 solution.

--

Plus the cost of the programmer, possible need for a USB-RS233 etc..

Picky picky. Of course, you only buy one programmer, and then you have
it the next time you feel tempted to use a 555 where a microprocessor
will do.

(Sez Tim, who just designed a two-transistor Schmitt trigger-based timer
because he's TOO LAZY TO PROGRAM A PIC!!!!)

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <7bjqg9d23gp5pflqjrpnecbgdi22sujnnk@4ax.com>,
etpm@whidbey.com says...

Jamie
Greetings Jamie,
I like that idea. The timer I put together, once power is removed,
will not cycle back on unless power is supplied for at least two
seconds. I wonder if reed switches are available that are normally on?
That would be simple and best. It would be best, from a safety
standpoint, for the shutting off to be accomplished by power being
removed from something, not supplied instead. This way a broken wire
won't defeat the shutoff. I'm used to limit switches, emergency
switches, contactors and the like operating this way on the machine
toold I use every day.
Cheers,
Eric

Yes they have them in NC operation too.

There is also another idea you can add to that, if you take the
reed switch and instead of mounting it on the PCB you mount it near
a mechanical limit that has a magnet there. Doing this will kill
two birds with one stone, you have current limiting via the coil wrapped
around the switch and the switch is mounted in such a way that it can
come close to a limit and still turn off for that direction.

But the NO types are very common and cheap in comparison, you should
be able to reset the timer using this instead of opening a circuit..

Lets face it, the timer must open the circuit when it times out right?
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642

If you're near a Radio Shack, I think they still have them or, you
can get one from a magnetic door alarm kit.

Jamie

 

[Phil Allison]

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."

For simplicity and isolation of HV kick backs from the motor, you can
use a reed switch with the proper number of turns of wire that
runs the motor, around it.

When the contacts close from excessive current, it pulls the RESET pin
low on the 555 timer.

There's more to be done but that should get you started.

** I hope " more to be done " includes a start up delay so WHEN ( not
if ) the current surge in the DC motor t switch on closes the reed relay
momentarily - it gets ignored.

Been there, seen that.


.... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

"Phil Allison"

.... surge in the DC motor at switch on

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 07:40:45 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson

Since children won't be driving my car maybe I'll just stick with the
driver's side window. But what about protection from two children?
What if a 6 year old kid puts his 2 year old sibling's neck in the
window and rolls it up? Maybe I better pay someone to put manual
cranks in the car.
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

 

[Kaz Kylheku]

On 2014-02-26, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote:

In article <doadnXyBycCV0pDOnZ2dnUVZ5q2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
tim@seemywebsite.really says...

LM555 in 8-pin DIP: $0.33
Two resistors and a cap: $0.05
board space for it all: $0.53
total: $0.91

PIC12 in 8-pin DIP: $0.70
Board space for it all: $0.27
total: $0.97

Damn. You're right -- the microprocessor _is_ more expensive!

Unless you need more than two resistors and a cap for the 555 solution.

--

Plus the cost of the programmer, possible need for a USB-RS233 etc..

PIC sent me a Microstick II kit with extra PIC24's included, USB-cable and all,
for, what was it? $35 bucks, shipped FedEx! IDE and compiler: free download
from website.

The biggest cost here is your time. $35 for a microcontroller kit is an
expensive part of the project if you consider your time to be worth nothing.
(If your time actually *is* worth nothing, then $35 is a lot of money in
an absolute sense, also.)

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 09:03:53 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 07:40:45 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson
Since children won't be driving my car maybe I'll just stick with the
driver's side window. But what about protection from two children?
What if a 6 year old kid puts his 2 year old sibling's neck in the
window and rolls it up? Maybe I better pay someone to put manual
cranks in the car.
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Until next summer, when the first great-grandchild arrives, I don't
have anyone young enough to worry about ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <84idnar5x-qpGJDOnZ2dnUVZ5t6dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
tim@seemywebsite.please says...

On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 21:33:31 -0500, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:

In article <doadnXyBycCV0pDOnZ2dnUVZ5q2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
tim@seemywebsite.really says...

LM555 in 8-pin DIP: $0.33 Two resistors and a cap: $0.05 board
space for it all: $0.53 total: $0.91

PIC12 in 8-pin DIP: $0.70 Board space for it all: $0.27 total:
$0.97

Damn. You're right -- the microprocessor _is_ more expensive!

Unless you need more than two resistors and a cap for the 555 solution.

--

Plus the cost of the programmer, possible need for a USB-RS233 etc..

Picky picky. Of course, you only buy one programmer, and then you have
it the next time you feel tempted to use a 555 where a microprocessor
will do.

(Sez Tim, who just designed a two-transistor Schmitt trigger-based timer
because he's TOO LAZY TO PROGRAM A PIC!!!!)

Yes, we must practice by example!

Jamie

 

[John G]

It happens that etpm@whidbey.com formulated :

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 07:40:45 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson
Since children won't be driving my car maybe I'll just stick with the
driver's side window. But what about protection from two children?
What if a 6 year old kid puts his 2 year old sibling's neck in the
window and rolls it up? Maybe I better pay someone to put manual
cranks in the car.
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The designers can only do so much to save your fool children from
themselves but then Darwin may still win. :-@

--
John G

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 12:09:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:

It happens that etpm@whidbey.com formulated :
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 07:40:45 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson
Since children won't be driving my car maybe I'll just stick with the
driver's side window. But what about protection from two children?
What if a 6 year old kid puts his 2 year old sibling's neck in the
window and rolls it up? Maybe I better pay someone to put manual
cranks in the car.
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The designers can only do so much to save your fool children from
themselves but then Darwin may still win. :-@

I'm a great fan of Darwin. I wish he'd stop hiding out and laughing,
and come forth and do something >:-}

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[John Fields]

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 18:52:19 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 12:09:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

It happens that etpm@whidbey.com formulated :
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 07:40:45 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:33:02 +1100, John G <greentest@ozemail.com.au
wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com laid this down on his screen :
My car has the feature on the driver's side electric window that
lowers the window automatically if the switch is pressed hard enough.
However, none of the other windows has this feature and nor does this
feature work in reverse, raising the window. So I was thinking that I
could use a 555 circuit that would sense the switch being on and after
it was on for a few seconds the timer would keep the window motor
energized until power was removed. So I built the timer circuit but
now need some way to shut the thing off and all I can think of is some
sort of current sensing switch that would turn off the power when the
current rose to a certain point. For the driver's side window I could
use whatever is there for the down motion but that won't work for any
of the other windows. Anybody have any advice? I'm gonna search the
web too but I value the instruction I have received here in the past.
Thanks,
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The window switches were designed that way to protect your children
from your stupidity.
You might also notice that to get the windows to go UP you have to hold
the switch UP
Early on there were some injuries from putting objects on the up end of
the switch then they were changed so you had to hold them up to close
the window.

Darwin is looking for candidates for this years award :-?

My Q45 has the driver's side with both automatic full open _or_
closed, but all the others require holding the button while traveling
up.

...Jim Thompson
Since children won't be driving my car maybe I'll just stick with the
driver's side window. But what about protection from two children?
What if a 6 year old kid puts his 2 year old sibling's neck in the
window and rolls it up? Maybe I better pay someone to put manual
cranks in the car.
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

The designers can only do so much to save your fool children from
themselves but then Darwin may still win. :-@

I'm a great fan of Darwin. I wish he'd stop hiding out and laughing,
and come forth and do something >:-}

...Jim Thompson

---
He works in the background, slowly winnowing the herd...

John Fields