Battery connection JST

J

Jason S

Guest
This might seem like a really dumb question, but can you connect two (2)
9-volt batteries (rechargeable or non-rechargeable)....
(a) in parallel (for longer operation of a device I suppose), or
(b) in series (to get double the voltage)???
I'm guessing the answer is yes, but I just need to be sure!

I have a small plastic case with 12V circuitry inside it, and there isn't
enough room for a 12v SLA battery. But enough room for two 9-volt batteries
to be inserted. One 9-volt isn't enough power for the circuit, but thought
if I can connect two of the 9-volt batteries in series, I might be able to
double the voltage and get up to 17 or 18V .... which could then be
rectified down to the required voltage.

No smart-ass replies thanks...
Thanks in advance.

Jason.
 
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f0a6e$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
This might seem like a really dumb question, but can you connect two (2)
9-volt batteries (rechargeable or non-rechargeable)....
(a) in parallel (for longer operation of a device I suppose), or
(b) in series (to get double the voltage)???
I'm guessing the answer is yes, but I just need to be sure!

I have a small plastic case with 12V circuitry inside it, and there isn't
enough room for a 12v SLA battery. But enough room for two 9-volt
batteries
to be inserted. One 9-volt isn't enough power for the circuit, but
thought
if I can connect two of the 9-volt batteries in series, I might be able to
double the voltage and get up to 17 or 18V .... which could then be
rectified down to the required voltage.

No smart-ass replies thanks...
Thanks in advance.

Jason.

Connecting in parallel without extra tricks is generally a no-no as they
won't share current evenly and one will drag down the other. Connecting in
series (assuming they are the same sort of battery, such as your 9V
instance) is okay. You will want a regulator to do your 12V conversion for
you - how much current does you circuit draw? I'm guessing a 78L12 would be
the job if it's low-current, otherwise a 7812. Either IC is available at
Dick Smith and they probably even have a data sheet for them (or use Google
for more info).

Cheers.

Ken
 
You could use a 9V and two AA or AAA size batteries in series to get 12 V.
The 9V would discharge quicker tho. No messy regulators. Whats the
application?
 
"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:yzEje.1906$U4.232777@news.xtra.co.nz...
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f0a6e$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
This might seem like a really dumb question, but can you connect two (2)
9-volt batteries (rechargeable or non-rechargeable)....
(a) in parallel (for longer operation of a device I suppose), or
(b) in series (to get double the voltage)???
I'm guessing the answer is yes, but I just need to be sure!

I have a small plastic case with 12V circuitry inside it, and there isn't
enough room for a 12v SLA battery. But enough room for two 9-volt
batteries
to be inserted. One 9-volt isn't enough power for the circuit, but
thought
if I can connect two of the 9-volt batteries in series, I might be able
to
double the voltage and get up to 17 or 18V .... which could then be
rectified down to the required voltage.

No smart-ass replies thanks...
Thanks in advance.

Jason.

Connecting in parallel without extra tricks is generally a no-no as they
won't share current evenly and one will drag down the other. Connecting in
series (assuming they are the same sort of battery, such as your 9V
instance) is okay. You will want a regulator to do your 12V conversion for
you - how much current does you circuit draw? I'm guessing a 78L12 would
be
the job if it's low-current, otherwise a 7812. Either IC is available at
Dick Smith and they probably even have a data sheet for them (or use
Google
for more info).

Cheers.

Ken
Thanks for your in-depth reply, Ken.
Yes, they will be the same sort of battery. Current probably won't be any
more than 0.5A, so I will probably use a 1A regulator.

Jason.
 
"Heywood Jablome" <reply to thread> wrote in message
news:428f1d47$0$4653$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
You could use a 9V and two AA or AAA size batteries in series to get 12 V.
The 9V would discharge quicker tho. No messy regulators. Whats the
application?
Hi,
Nice thought, but I don't like the idea of mixing different voltages,
battery shapes, and current. I would rather connect 2x 9-volts in series
and regulate the voltage I think. I'm not too concerned about the "messy"
circuitry as you would describe it, as its only 4 or 5 components to make up
a basic regulator, and I have the necessary gear to produce a nice little
PCB.
=)

Jason.
 
Current probably won't be any more than 0.5A
A 9v battery isn't going to provide anywhere near that amount of
current, I'm afraid.

A typical nicad 9v battery (which are usually 8.4v or sometimes even
7.2v) is around 200 to 250mAh, and they only get that rating for loads
of around 10% of that. You might get a bit better results from a NiMh
battery, but it won't be a lot better.

A typical alkaline 9v battery is good for around 600mAh, but again,
they're only designed to provide about 25mA.

A lithium 9v battery might be provide 1Ah or a little more, but they're
only designed for *momentary* loads of up to maybe 20% of that, while
for continuous loads, it's more like just 10-20mA.

So, regardless of which chemistry you choose, with a 9v battery, you're
only going to be able to supply perhaps 5% of the 500mA you're looking for.

As for using a 7812 type regulator, the quiescent current alone could be
as high as 10mA, which wastes half of the current the battery will let
you have, all on its own.

And dropping 18v down to 12v at 500mA is wasting an awful lot of power
in heat.

I don't suppose there's any chance you could fit nine or ten AA cells in
the space you have available? Jaycar has 2300mAh NiMh AA for $3.75 each
at the moment, and brand name AA alkaline would be maybe 2800-3000mAh,
but pulling 500mA continuously from either of those would still be a
stretch, for the same reasons stated above.

Regards, Peter
 
"Pete" <pjetson@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:428f311f$1@news.eftel.com...
Current probably won't be any more than 0.5A

A 9v battery isn't going to provide anywhere near that amount of current,
I'm afraid.

A typical nicad 9v battery (which are usually 8.4v or sometimes even 7.2v)
is around 200 to 250mAh, and they only get that rating for loads of around
10% of that. You might get a bit better results from a NiMh battery, but
it won't be a lot better.

A typical alkaline 9v battery is good for around 600mAh, but again,
they're only designed to provide about 25mA.

A lithium 9v battery might be provide 1Ah or a little more, but they're
only designed for *momentary* loads of up to maybe 20% of that, while for
continuous loads, it's more like just 10-20mA.

So, regardless of which chemistry you choose, with a 9v battery, you're
only going to be able to supply perhaps 5% of the 500mA you're looking
for.

As for using a 7812 type regulator, the quiescent current alone could be
as high as 10mA, which wastes half of the current the battery will let you
have, all on its own.

And dropping 18v down to 12v at 500mA is wasting an awful lot of power in
heat.

I don't suppose there's any chance you could fit nine or ten AA cells in
the space you have available? Jaycar has 2300mAh NiMh AA for $3.75 each
at the moment, and brand name AA alkaline would be maybe 2800-3000mAh, but
pulling 500mA continuously from either of those would still be a stretch,
for the same reasons stated above.

Regards, Peter

Thanks Peter, ill keep all that in mind. But I'm sure I won't be using
anywhere near 0.5A anyway.... it's only a 12V microwave sensor module and a
wireless transmitter module. It was like worst-case scenario.
Maybe you can tell me the average power consumption of the average
single-phase microwave sensor/detector? Maybe then I can decide the battery
usage. 9 or 10 AA's not very practical.... but if I have to, I have to.

Jason.
 
Maybe you can tell me the average power consumption of the average
single-phase microwave sensor/detector?
I found a microwave motion detector module via google (at
http://www.microwave-solutions.com/mdu1900.htm ), and it says that it
draws 50-60mA. Whether that bears any resemblance to what you have, I
don't know.

Are you sure what you have is microwave? PIR units are much more
common. A Crow 304Mhz wireless PIR (
http://www.crowelec.com/pwpirspecs.html ) draws about 15mA when idle,
and about 50mA when operating.

9 or 10 AA's not very practical.... but if I have to, I have to.
Nine AA batteries wouldn't take up all that much more volume than two 9V
batteries, but obviously only you know what space you have available.

Peter
 
Peter, I bought a microwave detector today, and works great! Works very
similar to a PIR, only doesn't require line-of-sight, and can be hidden
easily... that's what I originally wanted. Yes, I found that it draws very
little current, close to what you specified.... which is great!

Peter, do you know much about RF remote control? I'm asking you because you
seem to know a lot about electronics.
Is there such thing as a small RF transmitter (including an encoder) thant
sends a signal to a receiver (including a decoder!!!) up to 30m away or
more, whenever power is applied to it for a short time? I know it sounds
crazy, but there won't be anybody to press the button on the transmitter (to
the circuit I want to hook it up to). The decoder is throwing me off also,
because some RX/TX modules I've seen in the market require a "decoder".
Sounds complicated.


"Pete" <pjetson@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:428feb7b$1@news.eftel.com...
Maybe you can tell me the average power consumption of the average
single-phase microwave sensor/detector?

I found a microwave motion detector module via google (at
http://www.microwave-solutions.com/mdu1900.htm ), and it says that it
draws 50-60mA. Whether that bears any resemblance to what you have, I
don't know.

Are you sure what you have is microwave? PIR units are much more common.
A Crow 304Mhz wireless PIR ( http://www.crowelec.com/pwpirspecs.html )
draws about 15mA when idle, and about 50mA when operating.

9 or 10 AA's not very practical.... but if I have to, I have to.

Nine AA batteries wouldn't take up all that much more volume than two 9V
batteries, but obviously only you know what space you have available.

Peter
 
You could do what you want with an older (ie cheap) used RC set as used for
model planes - tho it depends on what you want the receiver to do when it gets
the signal as to whether or not this would suit you

David

Jason S wrote:

Peter, I bought a microwave detector today, and works great! Works very
similar to a PIR, only doesn't require line-of-sight, and can be hidden
easily... that's what I originally wanted. Yes, I found that it draws very
little current, close to what you specified.... which is great!

Peter, do you know much about RF remote control? I'm asking you because you
seem to know a lot about electronics.
Is there such thing as a small RF transmitter (including an encoder) thant
sends a signal to a receiver (including a decoder!!!) up to 30m away or
more, whenever power is applied to it for a short time? I know it sounds
crazy, but there won't be anybody to press the button on the transmitter (to
the circuit I want to hook it up to). The decoder is throwing me off also,
because some RX/TX modules I've seen in the market require a "decoder".
Sounds complicated.

"Pete" <pjetson@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:428feb7b$1@news.eftel.com...
Maybe you can tell me the average power consumption of the average
single-phase microwave sensor/detector?

I found a microwave motion detector module via google (at
http://www.microwave-solutions.com/mdu1900.htm ), and it says that it
draws 50-60mA. Whether that bears any resemblance to what you have, I
don't know.

Are you sure what you have is microwave? PIR units are much more common.
A Crow 304Mhz wireless PIR ( http://www.crowelec.com/pwpirspecs.html )
draws about 15mA when idle, and about 50mA when operating.

9 or 10 AA's not very practical.... but if I have to, I have to.

Nine AA batteries wouldn't take up all that much more volume than two 9V
batteries, but obviously only you know what space you have available.

Peter
 
Jason S wrote:

Is there such thing as a small RF transmitter (including an encoder) thant
sends a signal to a receiver (including a decoder!!!) up to 30m away or
more, whenever power is applied to it for a short time?
If you think about it, that's basically what a garage door opener does.
Pressing the button on the keyfob turns the transmitter on, and the
receiver pulls in a relay and opens the door.

Take a look at places like Oatley Electronics in Sydney -
http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/remote.html - there might be something
there that will do what you want. Perhaps their TX7 and RX7 units -
even though they're four channel, you only need to use one channel.
You'd need to be sure that you could turn the transmitter on with
whatever you're driving it from, though.

30 metres might be a bit of a stretch, depending on what's between the
transmitter and receiver.

Regards, Peter
 
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f220c$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:yzEje.1906$U4.232777@news.xtra.co.nz...
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f0a6e$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
This might seem like a really dumb question, but can you connect two
(2)
9-volt batteries (rechargeable or non-rechargeable)....
(a) in parallel (for longer operation of a device I suppose), or
(b) in series (to get double the voltage)???
I'm guessing the answer is yes, but I just need to be sure!

I have a small plastic case with 12V circuitry inside it, and there
isn't
enough room for a 12v SLA battery. But enough room for two 9-volt
batteries
to be inserted. One 9-volt isn't enough power for the circuit, but
thought
if I can connect two of the 9-volt batteries in series, I might be able
to
double the voltage and get up to 17 or 18V .... which could then be
rectified down to the required voltage.

No smart-ass replies thanks...
Thanks in advance.

Jason.

Connecting in parallel without extra tricks is generally a no-no as they
won't share current evenly and one will drag down the other. Connecting
in
series (assuming they are the same sort of battery, such as your 9V
instance) is okay. You will want a regulator to do your 12V conversion
for
you - how much current does you circuit draw? I'm guessing a 78L12 would
be
the job if it's low-current, otherwise a 7812. Either IC is available at
Dick Smith and they probably even have a data sheet for them (or use
Google
for more info).

Cheers.

Ken



Thanks for your in-depth reply, Ken.
Yes, they will be the same sort of battery. Current probably won't be any
more than 0.5A, so I will probably use a 1A regulator.

Jason.


If you can get hold of the National (or other manufacturer) switching
drop-in replacement for the more common linear regulator you'll have a much
more efficient end-result. Can't recall the numbers off-hand, but they're on
the National site.

Ken
 
"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:itYje.2052$U4.254277@news.xtra.co.nz...
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f220c$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...

"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:yzEje.1906$U4.232777@news.xtra.co.nz...
"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:428f0a6e$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
This might seem like a really dumb question, but can you connect two
(2)
9-volt batteries (rechargeable or non-rechargeable)....
(a) in parallel (for longer operation of a device I suppose), or
(b) in series (to get double the voltage)???
I'm guessing the answer is yes, but I just need to be sure!

I have a small plastic case with 12V circuitry inside it, and there
isn't
enough room for a 12v SLA battery. But enough room for two 9-volt
batteries
to be inserted. One 9-volt isn't enough power for the circuit, but
thought
if I can connect two of the 9-volt batteries in series, I might be
able
to
double the voltage and get up to 17 or 18V .... which could then be
rectified down to the required voltage.

No smart-ass replies thanks...
Thanks in advance.

Jason.

Connecting in parallel without extra tricks is generally a no-no as
they
won't share current evenly and one will drag down the other. Connecting
in
series (assuming they are the same sort of battery, such as your 9V
instance) is okay. You will want a regulator to do your 12V conversion
for
you - how much current does you circuit draw? I'm guessing a 78L12
would
be
the job if it's low-current, otherwise a 7812. Either IC is available
at
Dick Smith and they probably even have a data sheet for them (or use
Google
for more info).

Cheers.

Ken



Thanks for your in-depth reply, Ken.
Yes, they will be the same sort of battery. Current probably won't be
any
more than 0.5A, so I will probably use a 1A regulator.

Jason.


If you can get hold of the National (or other manufacturer) switching
drop-in replacement for the more common linear regulator you'll have a
much
more efficient end-result. Can't recall the numbers off-hand, but they're
on
the National site.

Ken
ok Ken, thanks for your input. Ill check it out.

Jason.
 

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