J
js5895
Guest
Hi,
I posted earlier about how a 3-way, illuminated switch works, well, I
hooked it up permanently.
One is the new commercial grade illuminated 3-way switch and the other
is an old residential
grade non-illuminated 3-way switch. I came in the house and saw that
the illuminated switch
was lit and the load was off so, I went in the house and flipped the
non-illuminated switch and all
I could hear was arcing and the load not lighting up so, I flipped it
off and it stopped, I tried it
again and the same thing happened, I tried a third time and the light
started flickering and then fully lit
up, then the arcing sound stopped, I tried 15 more times and it worked
fine, I smelled the
switch and it smells of ozone. The non-illuminated switch was lying
around in my tool box for
4 to 6 years and it had light oxidation on the terminals but, it came
from the inside, I thought maybe it was because the
load was a small fluorescent sconce but, I think it's because the up
position of the switch
probably had oxidation on the part that the actuator connected to,
because switched
down it was fine, it only did that in the up position. I think to ease
my mind, I'm going to buy
a new one, a commercial grade one, just for added security, but what do
you people think about this?
Thanks for all your help.
I posted earlier about how a 3-way, illuminated switch works, well, I
hooked it up permanently.
One is the new commercial grade illuminated 3-way switch and the other
is an old residential
grade non-illuminated 3-way switch. I came in the house and saw that
the illuminated switch
was lit and the load was off so, I went in the house and flipped the
non-illuminated switch and all
I could hear was arcing and the load not lighting up so, I flipped it
off and it stopped, I tried it
again and the same thing happened, I tried a third time and the light
started flickering and then fully lit
up, then the arcing sound stopped, I tried 15 more times and it worked
fine, I smelled the
switch and it smells of ozone. The non-illuminated switch was lying
around in my tool box for
4 to 6 years and it had light oxidation on the terminals but, it came
from the inside, I thought maybe it was because the
load was a small fluorescent sconce but, I think it's because the up
position of the switch
probably had oxidation on the part that the actuator connected to,
because switched
down it was fine, it only did that in the up position. I think to ease
my mind, I'm going to buy
a new one, a commercial grade one, just for added security, but what do
you people think about this?
Thanks for all your help.