A
Arfa Daily
Guest
Anyone by any chance got schematics for an Arcam Alpha 10 amplifier ?
TIA
Arfa
TIA
Arfa
A
Arfa Daily
Guest
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:uzc6p.13691$Ga7.9010@newsfe16.ams2...
Arfa
news:uzc6p.13691$Ga7.9010@newsfe16.ams2...
Scrub that. Just found a complete service manual
Arfa
N
N_Cook
Guest
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:uzc6p.13691$Ga7.9010@newsfe16.ams2...
Not motorized function sw prob I hope.
news:uzc6p.13691$Ga7.9010@newsfe16.ams2...
Not motorized function sw prob I hope.
A
Arfa Daily
Guest
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ijjhae$8fn$1@news.eternal-september.org...
9 just yesterday. It was no particular problem, as has been the case with a
few I've done in the past.
Arfa
news:ijjhae$8fn$1@news.eternal-september.org...
No, it's not. But why do you ask, I wonder ? I did one of those on an Alpha
9 just yesterday. It was no particular problem, as has been the case with a
few I've done in the past.
Arfa
N
N_Cook
Guest
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:L9k7p.21313$Ga7.4781@newsfe16.ams2...
gearbox cogs -> indexing/alignment problems
news:L9k7p.21313$Ga7.4781@newsfe16.ams2...
Too much back-torque with all those multiway wafers -> stripped plastic
gearbox cogs -> indexing/alignment problems
T
Tim Schwartz
Guest
On 2/18/2011 7:32 AM, N_Cook wrote:
I've done DOZENS of those Alps switches. They must be taken apart and
cleaned, as spraying them does not seem to last, but I've never had a
stripped gear drive.
Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
P.S. These switches were used in the Arcam Delta 290, Xeta 1 and Alpha
9 integrated amps, along with the Creek 5350 and some Yamaha products.
I'd guess along with many others I don't know about.
I've done DOZENS of those Alps switches. They must be taken apart and
cleaned, as spraying them does not seem to last, but I've never had a
stripped gear drive.
Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
P.S. These switches were used in the Arcam Delta 290, Xeta 1 and Alpha
9 integrated amps, along with the Creek 5350 and some Yamaha products.
I'd guess along with many others I don't know about.
N
N_Cook
Guest
Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
news:4D5E6F6B.4000104@bristolnj.com...
There is a "weak link" , sprung loaded slotted axle support in the drive .
Intermittently disengages motor if excessive back torque/jammed , then will
mess up the tiny pinion if left in that state, clicking away to itself while
the owner sleeps through it. Does
not make as much noise as a Dyson slip clutch/ football rattle, you could
not sleep through that.
news:4D5E6F6B.4000104@bristolnj.com...
There is a "weak link" , sprung loaded slotted axle support in the drive .
Intermittently disengages motor if excessive back torque/jammed , then will
mess up the tiny pinion if left in that state, clicking away to itself while
the owner sleeps through it. Does
not make as much noise as a Dyson slip clutch/ football rattle, you could
not sleep through that.
A
Arfa Daily
Guest
"Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
news:4D5E6F6B.4000104@bristolnj.com...
unbend the three tags on the front. that allows you to withdraw the shaft
from the wafers. There are index marks on the wafer rotors, and the shaft is
flattened on two sides, so you can't get the indexing wrong, if you pay
attention in the first place. The only one that you have to watch a bit, is
the front-most wafer that controls the motor stop, because that one is
driven differently via two tabs. The wafers themselves are easily 'sprung'
from the frames, and the rotors easily unclip from the bodies - like a VCR
mode switch. I have some very very fine wet and dry paper - something like
1000 grade - and I use a tiny piece held in needle point tweezers to burnish
the contact pads and central ring back to bright metal. I clean the rotating
contacts with a pencil rubber, and re-tension them. Finally, I add in a drop
of high quality switch cleaner / lubricant, before clipping the rotor back
in. The individual wafers can then be clipped back into the frame, and the
index marks used to realign them, before refitting the shaft. They run like
silk after they have been thus refurbished, and are electrically silent. I
have never had any mechanical problems caused as a result of doing this, nor
have I ever had one bounce. I haven't done as many as Tim, but probably
still twenty or more, over the years.
Arfa
news:4D5E6F6B.4000104@bristolnj.com...
Yes, that's exactly what I did. You remove the switch from the board, and
unbend the three tags on the front. that allows you to withdraw the shaft
from the wafers. There are index marks on the wafer rotors, and the shaft is
flattened on two sides, so you can't get the indexing wrong, if you pay
attention in the first place. The only one that you have to watch a bit, is
the front-most wafer that controls the motor stop, because that one is
driven differently via two tabs. The wafers themselves are easily 'sprung'
from the frames, and the rotors easily unclip from the bodies - like a VCR
mode switch. I have some very very fine wet and dry paper - something like
1000 grade - and I use a tiny piece held in needle point tweezers to burnish
the contact pads and central ring back to bright metal. I clean the rotating
contacts with a pencil rubber, and re-tension them. Finally, I add in a drop
of high quality switch cleaner / lubricant, before clipping the rotor back
in. The individual wafers can then be clipped back into the frame, and the
index marks used to realign them, before refitting the shaft. They run like
silk after they have been thus refurbished, and are electrically silent. I
have never had any mechanical problems caused as a result of doing this, nor
have I ever had one bounce. I haven't done as many as Tim, but probably
still twenty or more, over the years.
Arfa
N
N_Cook
Guest
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:QaG7p.21495$Ga7.10703@newsfe16.ams2...
to replace, odd footprint, relay. Clear plastic outer. Needle heated with
soldering iron to melt, not drill, into the cover over the contact gap and
another on the side. Then .45mm (wire core) diameter TeePee interdental
toothbrush will pass through the needle hole. The miniature "bootle brush"
bristles open out inside the contact gap and a side entry needle forces
against the to-fro and sideways cleaning of the brush. Neat Blob of hotmelt
glue over the holes after
news:QaG7p.21495$Ga7.10703@newsfe16.ams2...
While on contact cleaning, not Arcam. This week a problem with an awkward
to replace, odd footprint, relay. Clear plastic outer. Needle heated with
soldering iron to melt, not drill, into the cover over the contact gap and
another on the side. Then .45mm (wire core) diameter TeePee interdental
toothbrush will pass through the needle hole. The miniature "bootle brush"
bristles open out inside the contact gap and a side entry needle forces
against the to-fro and sideways cleaning of the brush. Neat Blob of hotmelt
glue over the holes after