APC Smart-UPS does nothing after non-use

[Brian]

I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit for
a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded no
LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker, and
reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power wires,
the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A 32V fuses
to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries are totally
dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled the
unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in for a
half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone else
had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it? Seems
like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian

 

[Brian]

I went to use a Smart-UPS 700 (true sine wave) after letting it sit for
a couple of years, and nothing happened -- plugging it in yielded no
LEDs, sounds, etc. Pressing the power on, off, circuit breaker, and
reset did nothing. The two 120V receptacles (wall plugs) I tried are good.

I disassembled the unit, and found conductivity through the power wires,
the circuit breaker, and leads to the mainboard. The two 30A 32V fuses
to the batteries are fine, but, as expected the batteries are totally
dead after sitting for a couple of years.

I didn't see any obvious damage to the UPS at all -- no hot parts or
connections. There was continuity, separately, through the two
transformer windings. I jiggled all the connectors and reassembled the
unit, and there was no change, even after leaving it plugged in for a
half-hour.

What else could cause absolutely no response from this UPS? Anyone else
had this experience with an APC UPS, and did you overcome it? Seems
like too nice hardware to just trash (after recycling the batteries).

Thanks in advance.

-Brian

 

[Ron(UK)]

N_Cook wrote:

My bottle of MEK is now nearly full of empty

space and no idea where to get anymore.

A model shop. Slater`s MEK_PAK

Ron

 

[powerseed]

This equipment (a Microgrid III 36" x 48" graphics digitizing tablet ca 1992)
is a tad esoteric at this point..no factory service, tech manual available,
etc. I'm a student trying to resurrect this old bird for my GIS classes.

Serial interfacing software (Vtablet) is available for connecting this to my
XP Pro Compaq laptop. I bought a serial port to USB adapter (Keyspan) for my
MGIII which self-installed at COM5. Since the COM1 port was occupied, I reset
the serial Keyspan adapter via the Windows Device Manager to COM2 and set
Vtablet to COM2 as well. Following recommended start-up procedure (Microgrid
tablet on, then boot) I am unable to elicit any puck output (screen cursor
movement in response to moving the puck on the tablet) which is also
confirmed as zero port interrupts on the software's Status tab.

I am now concerned that the tablet controller is misbehaving . I also note
that the Microgrid start-up only produces two tones instead of the “all okay”
three tone self-diagnostic (don't know the implication of the missing tone).

The unit has a removable 8" x 13" controller board and I was wondering if
anyone out there could direct me to an circuit troubleshooter who could look
it over and hopefully repair???

Many thanks!

 

[aaronep@pacbell.net]

On May 7, 1:25 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net> wrote in messagenews:Mk7Uj.15987$2g1.5987@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...



"Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:rK6Uj.367$JK1.79@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...

aaro...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:e72a60a2-8357-4176-aa79-d5032250671b@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
I have a Toshiba DVD player, model #SD-K760SU that is approx 1 year
old.
It is not playing properly in that scenes freeze on the screen, images
are distorted, and
Disks do not start from the beginning, but from other parts of the
disk.

Is this a situation where the lens needs cleaning, or might it be
another matter? If the lens does need cleaning, how can I access
the lens, OR, are there lens cleaning kits available?

Any suggestions on how to rectify the situation would be appreciated.

Aaron

For reasons quoted many times on here, DVD players do not generally
suffer from dirty lenses like CD players do. Exceptions to this are if
the player is located in a country or area that is very dry, or if the
player is located in a heavy smoking environment. Playability problems
are most often associated with a worn laser, although one year does seem
a little on the 'young' side. That said, if the player gets heavy use, it
is by no means unheard of for a laser of just one year to be showing
signs of wear, and of course, none of this precludes the possibility of
the laser being defective. Other causes of playability problems include
mechanical defects on the deck, iffy spindle motors and 'marginal' caps
on the power supply.

Do your freezes tend to occur late in the disc ? If so, that is usually a
good indicator of laser trouble, as it is much more difficult for it to
read layer two through layer one. A further test that you can run is to
try playing some full-length commercially pressed CDs. If these play
without problem, this pretty much verifies the mechanics, and is another
pointer for laser trouble.

By all means try cleaning the lens, but do not use a lens cleaner disc,
as this is unlikely to help, and can on some machines, cause physical
damage to the laser assembly. Access is usually available once the
optical block has been slid down its tracks towards the back of the deck,
which brings it out from under the disc clamp. The lens should be cleaned
carefully with a cotton bud (Q-Tip) moistened (not wet) with electronics
grade isopropyl alcohol. The lens suspension is fairly delicate, so don't
be 'brutal' with it, but by the same token, it is not so delicate that it
is easily damaged. Just use common sense. When the alcohol has
evaporated, polish the lens with a new clean and dry cotton bud.

The only symptom that you describe, which is a little 'odd' is that discs
seem to start from odd places rather than the beginning, although that
might just be being caused by the laser having trouble getting a good
error-free data stream off the disc.

Arfa

As usual, Geoff has more patience than I have. Bottom line: buy a new
player. A Pioneer would probably last longer.

Mark Z.

You're probably right Mark but hey, we gotta try, don't we ? d;~}

Arfa

note to all of the GOOD people who replied to my original post.
thank you for taking time to write. you have given me much
valuable information which I will use. best, Aaron

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 09 May 2008 23:07:45 -0500, Dave wrote:

Could a transistor going flaky and overdriving capacitors cause them to
swell? How about causing one of them to explode?

Just wondering what caused the systemic failure of the power supply PCB I am
looking at.

Thanks,

I see/read a lot about SMPS failures and my educated opinion is that they
are just very hard on components. Electrolytic caps are more susceptible
to problems with heat which they seem to endure in an SMPS because of
their physical placement next to heat sources. It also depends on the
quality of the caps. Vendors sometimes use less than desirable quality
caps that swell and blow for seemingly no detectable reason.

 

[Tim]

In article <4825cff9.7365782@news.verizon.net>, bpetria@verizon.net
says...

Hi,

I service TVs and VCRs for over 10 years. I have a jig I use to unlock
the reels in a VHS cassette. I also have a reel/spindel, removed from an old
VCR, that I use to insert into the TU side of the cassette, that is fully
rewound. I can feel, as I turn the spindle with my fingers, if this cassette
has a lot of resistance ("drag"). New cassettes, it is easy to turn.
Cassettes that had hard use, have much resistance. I have taken apart a high
"drag" cassette and tried to determine what actually caused the increase in
resistance. The posts, etc. that the tape comes in contact with is very
clean. I have to assume that the side of the tape, that contacts the posts
in the cassette, which is the opposite side that contacts the heads in the
VCR, is the cause of this increase in resistance.

Do you know the answer to this mystery?

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.



I was lead to believe, when I worked in the industry, that the problem

was the slippery side of the tape, eventually lost it's surface with
use, and the tape would bind from that point on.

I remember trying to transfer the tapes (3/4") to a new case to see if
they would come back, but they would not. I did that to retrieve a
program from a tape that ended up with a broken cartridge. The tape had
been binding towards the the of the spool.

As luck would have it, I had a new tape that had been creased the entire
length by a crumb stuck in it's path, so I combined the two to get the
program back. I got at least one good play out of it, but I copied it to
a new tape with that play. And yes it still had problems near the end of
the tape, just as it did in it's original case. The only part I
transferred were the two spools and the tape itself.

- Tim -

 

[PhattyMo]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On Fri, 09 May 2008 11:00:30 -0400, JW <none@dev.nul> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

On Fri, 09 May 2008 07:51:20 +1000 Franc Zabkar
fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in Message id:
iur6249jf7tva5b2lunkgdjldmlvpcj4jh@4ax.com>:

On Wed, 07 May 2008 13:11:38 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

Trying to repair a Keithley 616 with a bad ranging board. It needs two
parts. One is a dual channel J-FET and is marked ITS30092; the other is
an op-amp with the markings ITS6214. Does anyone know of a cross, or even
who the manufacturer is? (Must be before my time...)

Thanks for any help!
I'm guessing they are specially selected Intersil parts.

Have a look at the IT500-IT505 dual N-channel J-FETs:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/1824055.pdf

Maybe someone has an Intersil catalogue or databook from around that
time (early 1980s ???).
Thanks Franc, Intersil makes sense. It's starting to look like I'll need a
donor unit.

I would think that you could refer to the schematics in the manual ...

http://www.keithley.com/support/data?asset=5258

... and find a modern op-amp and dual J-FET with much better specs.

See http://www.intersil.com/products/pt/parametric_table_13437.asp

You may even be able to get a free sample:
http://www.intersil.com/samples/index.asp

Here are two dual N-channel J-FETs that may fit the bill:
http://www.linearsystems.com/datasheets/LS843-5.pdf
http://www.linearsystems.com/datasheets/LSK389.pdf

Here are more choices:
http://www.linearsystems.com/products.html#GlossD

You can request samples here:
http://www.linearsystems.com/contact_us.html

- Franc Zabkar

I have a couple donor Keithley benchtop DMM boards.. I can dig them out
and take a look for those parts,if you like.

 

[Brian]

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Otherwise, I see cheapee replacement batteries on eBay, ~$40 delivered
for the needed two batteries.

-Brian

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"powerseed" <u43512@uwe> writes:

This equipment (a Microgrid III 36" x 48" graphics digitizing tablet ca 1992)
is a tad esoteric at this point..no factory service, tech manual available,
etc. I'm a student trying to resurrect this old bird for my GIS classes.

Serial interfacing software (Vtablet) is available for connecting this to my
XP Pro Compaq laptop. I bought a serial port to USB adapter (Keyspan) for my
MGIII which self-installed at COM5. Since the COM1 port was occupied, I reset
the serial Keyspan adapter via the Windows Device Manager to COM2 and set
Vtablet to COM2 as well. Following recommended start-up procedure (Microgrid
tablet on, then boot) I am unable to elicit any puck output (screen cursor
movement in response to moving the puck on the tablet) which is also
confirmed as zero port interrupts on the software's Status tab.

I am now concerned that the tablet controller is misbehaving . I also note
that the Microgrid start-up only produces two tones instead of the “all okay”
three tone self-diagnostic (don't know the implication of the missing tone).

The unit has a removable 8" x 13" controller board and I was wondering if
anyone out there could direct me to an circuit troubleshooter who could look
it over and hopefully repair???

First things to do would be to confirm

(1) that the serial port adapter has installed properly. I've used this or
a similar unit and the installation can be buggy especially when switching
to a different port. Either connect it to another PC with a known working
seerial port or select in a terminal emulator that is known to work with
COM5 and see if loopback works.

(2) that the tablet is actually outputting something on the serial port.
Make sure it either doesn't need any hand-shake signals (CTS, RTS, etc.)
or that they are set properly.

(3) that the cable has pins 2 and 3 swapped, or not swapped as required.
When connected correctly, there should probably be a negative voltage
on both pins 2 and 3 with respect to pin 5. If incorrect, then
there will be a voltage on only one of those pins.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[James Sweet]

Brian wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.

Otherwise, I see cheapee replacement batteries on eBay, ~$40 delivered
for the needed two batteries.

-Brian

Beware cheap Chinese knockoff batteries, they've been known to fail
quickly and/or leak.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 10 May 2008 14:08:01 GMT, "powerseed" <u43512@uwe> put finger
to keyboard and composed:

This equipment (a Microgrid III 36" x 48" graphics digitizing tablet ca 1992)
is a tad esoteric at this point..no factory service, tech manual available,
etc. I'm a student trying to resurrect this old bird for my GIS classes.

Serial interfacing software (Vtablet) is available for connecting this to my
XP Pro Compaq laptop. I bought a serial port to USB adapter (Keyspan) for my
MGIII which self-installed at COM5. Since the COM1 port was occupied, I reset
the serial Keyspan adapter via the Windows Device Manager to COM2 and set
Vtablet to COM2 as well. Following recommended start-up procedure (Microgrid
tablet on, then boot) I am unable to elicit any puck output (screen cursor
movement in response to moving the puck on the tablet) which is also
confirmed as zero port interrupts on the software's Status tab.

This is the user manual:
http://www.gtcocalcomp.com/files/Microgrid3.pdf

Make sure you have matched the communications parameters (baud rate,
parity, etc) at both ends of your cable.

Here are some recommended settings when used with Vtablet:
http://www.vtablet.com/download/Digitize.txt

To narrow down your problem, you could connect your tablet to a PC
with a real serial port and try this suite of test programs:
http://www.gtcocalcomp.com/files/sgdosdrv.exe

It includes an MGIII test.

Alternatively you could try a DOS terminal emulation program such as
Telix or Xtalk which can display incoming data in hex mode. You could
also set the tablet switches for ASCII output mode.

I am now concerned that the tablet controller is misbehaving . I also note
that the Microgrid start-up only produces two tones instead of the “all okay”
three tone self-diagnostic (don't know the implication of the missing tone).

The user manual says that anything less than 3 tones means your tablet
has a problem. On the plus side, the fact that it produces any tone at
all suggests that the CPU and ROM are probably OK.

If the PCB has socketed ICs, then you could remove them one at a time
to see if the error tones change. For example, if removing a RAM chip
changes your error report from 2 tones to 1 tone, then you can be
reasonably confident that your RAM is OK.

The unit has a removable 8" x 13" controller board and I was wondering if
anyone out there could direct me to an circuit troubleshooter who could look
it over and hopefully repair???

Can you upload a photo to your web space? It may jog my memory.

Many thanks!

You could try TabletWorks as an alternative to Vtablet:
http://www.gtcocalcomp.com/supportsummasoftware.htm

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Fri, 9 May 2008 12:06:50 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

:To then be able to solder to coarser wire.
:Assuming coating will not melt off/evaporate at soldering iron temperature
:I tend to grip between 2 fingertips and abraid with the finest grade of wet
:and dry paper against a fingertip and turning wire around and repeating a
:few times. Would abraiding against a block of rubber be better or some other
rocess altogether ? for minimised chance of localised (so failure point)
:weakness due to stretching near the stripping point. Perhaps a small
:fine-grade grind stone in a Dremmel with direction of rotation towards the
:bulk of wire, turning the wire .


Forget the burning or scraping options, and there is no need to go out trying to
find a source of xylene. Use a rapid paint stripper - it works excellently.
Leave it for a minute and then wipe off with a tissue.

 

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[Franc Zabkar]

On 05 May 2008 08:20:54 -0400, Sam Goldwasser
<sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> put finger to keyboard and composed:

The only possibility so far is that I might be able to find a service
manual for the CD player and that might have a schematic with the pickup part
number and a pinout.

Can you find a datasheet for the IC that interfaces with the pickup?
If so, then perform a continuity check with a DMM to locate your
diodes.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[w_tom]

On May 11, 11:56 am, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:

I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery -- be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny)

No reason to remove or disconnect those batteries. Simply connect a
VDC multimeter to battery terminals. If voltage rises when UPS is
connected to AC, then UPS charger is working. Same charger test
performed without removing anything also tests other UPS hardware.
Procedure tests both items simultaneously. Learn more, faster, by
also doing less labor. Use a meter.

 

[WindsorFo]

JeffM wrote:

JohnC wrote:
[SPAM]cgi.ebay.com[SPAM]

http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:GlWDaaVQapQJages.ebay.co.uk/help/newtoebay/usenet-policy.html+*-users-may-not-post-on-Usenet-groups+zzz+suspend-the-user's-eBay-account
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9?q=Charters+misc.industry.electronics.marketplace+Discussions+Advertisement-*-*+only.advertise+Techniques-for-*-*-*+sci.electronics.repair-Fixing-*-*+Annecdotes-*-*+*.rec.hierarchy+*.*.not.a.forsale.group+zz-zz+Discussion

I hope no one ever again gives this jerk a helping hand:
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=Harmon-Kardon&enc_author=jFRQaBkAAABiqA4kWNgwvD1rJ028WQDNzx2omkWbskCvdYJymoQ-cQ&scoring=d

When it says not to post to Usenet groups, it does not mean groups
that are specifically for that. rec.audio.marketplace is a for sale group.

--

"I've also noted that a couple of my regular spammers
have pretty much switched over to phishing and 419s
from pecker pills and sawdust tablets." - Bar0

"If it's from BRNIC, it's GOT to be blocked" - Buss Error

 

[James Sweet]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

There is a good chance that charging the batteries externally
won't do a thing but then you've not lost anything just giving it
a try.

I don't know if lead-acid gel cells are susceptible to sulfation
as are liquid-filled cells but that is a usual cause of failure from
liquid batteries being stored without a charge being maintained.

I don't want to discourage the OP from trying to recharge the battery -- be
sure to cover them with something thick and heavy, in case they rupture or
explode (I'm not trying to be funny) -- but when I recently pulled out a
Coleman fluorescent lantern powered by an E640 gel battery, I found it dead.
The several-years' lack of charging had allowed the battery to die.
Lead-acid batteries are fragile beasts.

I've never heard of one exploding, I have had them bulge though. Gel
cells are certainly prone to sulfation.