Guest
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
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S
Sylvia Else
Guest
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
B
Bob Milutinovic
Guest
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire glue"
is about as good.
If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a hot
iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least as long
as the cell.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire glue"
is about as good.
If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a hot
iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least as long
as the cell.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had concluded
that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be done, I'll have
to give it another go.
Sylvia.
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire
glue" is about as good.
If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a
hot iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least
as long as the cell.
I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had concluded
that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be done, I'll have
to give it another go.
Sylvia.
K
Kennedy
Guest
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire
glue" is about as good.
If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a
hot iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least
as long as the cell.
I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had
concluded that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be
done, I'll have to give it another go.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
B
Bob Milutinovic
Guest
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid of
the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible before it's
had a chance to start oxidising.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire
glue" is about as good.
If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a
hot iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least
as long as the cell.
I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had concluded
that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be done, I'll have
to give it another go.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid of
the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible before it's
had a chance to start oxidising.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom
A
atec77
Guest
On 20/11/2013 11:44 AM, Kennedy wrote:
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
Y
yaputya
Guest
"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:l6hab0$26t$1@dont-email.me...
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJ_PB8bqdw
On 20/11/2013 11:44 AM, Kennedy wrote:
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJ_PB8bqdw
A
atec77
Guest
On 20/11/2013 9:41 PM, yaputya wrote:
it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very well or chrome ,
and the metal surfaces need a good sanding
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
It's useful for repairing small breaks , things like slot car frames but"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:l6hab0$26t$1@dont-email.me...
On 20/11/2013 11:44 AM, Kennedy wrote:
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJ_PB8bqdw
it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very well or chrome ,
and the metal surfaces need a good sanding
--
X-No-Archive: Yes
Y
yaputya
Guest
"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:l6i84o$5e3$1@dont-email.me...
Has anyone tried 'mini' spot-welding these batteries?
Maybe you could do it with a hefty bench PS or a car battery etc.
On 20/11/2013 9:41 PM, yaputya wrote:
"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:l6hab0$26t$1@dont-email.me...
On 20/11/2013 11:44 AM, Kennedy wrote:
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJ_PB8bqdw
It's useful for repairing small breaks , things like slot car frames but it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very
well or chrome , and the metal surfaces need a good sanding
Has anyone tried 'mini' spot-welding these batteries?
Maybe you could do it with a hefty bench PS or a car battery etc.
B
Bob Milutinovic
Guest
"yaputya" <y@putya.com> wrote in message
news:bf50umFamscU1@mid.individual.net...
I've tried it in the past, with very limited success.
The problem is that only a tiny area of the conductor actually "welds" to
the battery, meaning that a butterfly in the Amazon flapping its wings too
violently would be enough to cause the joint to fail.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom
news:bf50umFamscU1@mid.individual.net...
"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:l6i84o$5e3$1@dont-email.me...
On 20/11/2013 9:41 PM, yaputya wrote:
"atec77" <"atec77 "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:l6hab0$26t$1@dont-email.me...
On 20/11/2013 11:44 AM, Kennedy wrote:
On 20/11/2013 9:36 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf2fndFou8kU2@mid.individual.net...
On 20/11/2013 6:32 AM, Bob Milutinovic wrote:
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message
news:bf0uqtFeoajU1@mid.individual.net...
On 19/11/2013 8:55 PM, bruce56@topmail.co.nz wrote:
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car
keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.
Sylvia.
The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface
devoid
of the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible
before it's had a chance to start oxidising.
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.
It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmJ_PB8bqdw
It's useful for repairing small breaks , things like slot car frames but
it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very well or chrome ,
and the metal surfaces need a good sanding
Has anyone tried 'mini' spot-welding these batteries?
Maybe you could do it with a hefty bench PS or a car battery etc.
I've tried it in the past, with very limited success.
The problem is that only a tiny area of the conductor actually "welds" to
the battery, meaning that a butterfly in the Amazon flapping its wings too
violently would be enough to cause the joint to fail.
--
Bob Milutinovic
Cognicom