Anybody knows the perfect Press'n Peel usage method?

[Chisvasi Sebastian]

What is the perfect techniques to use Press'n Peel to PCB?
My PCB is looking great when i transfer the image from PnP, but after
i pull it out the acid it looks like i've sandpaper it ... i don't
know what else to do ... (

Thanks ...

 

[Chisvasi Sebastian]

Maybe the sandpapered effect is caused by etching? This happens when
resist lifts during etching. Lifting can be caused by either ironing
with too low a temperature or insufficient cleaning of the copper before
ironing. I clean with a solvent first to remove fingerprints and such,
then scrub with 0000 ("four aught" = very, very fine) steel wool.

the problem is that i've clean it very good before i started.
first i've cleaned the PCB with acetone to remove fingerprints, then
i've put it in ferric chloride for about 1-2 minutes, then i've clean
it with an dry absorbant paper, and only then i've ducktaped the PnP
to the PCB.
Maybe it was the iron temperature ... first i've ironed it at
"syntetic" mark for about 5 minutes, then for another 3 minutes at
greater temperature (next mark on the iron dial). Is possible that
i've lifted the PnP, i don't know exactly ... btw, i'm using White PnP
because is cheaper then the Blue PnP, i do so because nobody was able
to tell me what is the difference betwen those two except "the blue
one is better" why? nobody can tell ... maybe is the price (the blue
one is 3 times more expensive then the white one).
Anyway ... i will keep trying 'till I finish my White PnP stock ...
then i'm going to try another method ... i heard that UV sensitive PCB
is "the one" ... if is not too expensive ...

PS i find somewhere something about using spray acetone after, when
the circuit is imprimed on PCB, it seems that the toner is going to
stick to the copper better and is going to fill the eventual gap or
line interruptions ... anybody heard something like that?

 

[Michael]

Chisvasi Sebastian wrote:

Maybe the sandpapered effect is caused by etching? This happens when
resist lifts during etching. Lifting can be caused by either ironing
with too low a temperature or insufficient cleaning of the copper before
ironing. I clean with a solvent first to remove fingerprints and such,
then scrub with 0000 ("four aught" = very, very fine) steel wool.

the problem is that i've clean it very good before i started.
first i've cleaned the PCB with acetone to remove fingerprints, then
i've put it in ferric chloride for about 1-2 minutes, then i've clean
it with an dry absorbant paper, and only then i've ducktaped the PnP
to the PCB.
Maybe it was the iron temperature ... first i've ironed it at
"syntetic" mark for about 5 minutes, then for another 3 minutes at
greater temperature (next mark on the iron dial). Is possible that
i've lifted the PnP, i don't know exactly ... btw, i'm using White PnP
because is cheaper then the Blue PnP, i do so because nobody was able
to tell me what is the difference betwen those two except "the blue
one is better" why? nobody can tell ... maybe is the price (the blue
one is 3 times more expensive then the white one).
Anyway ... i will keep trying 'till I finish my White PnP stock ...
then i'm going to try another method ... i heard that UV sensitive PCB
is "the one" ... if is not too expensive ...

PS i find somewhere something about using spray acetone after, when
the circuit is imprimed on PCB, it seems that the toner is going to
stick to the copper better and is going to fill the eventual gap or
line interruptions ... anybody heard something like that?

All my experience with PnP has to do with Blue; I have never used
White. I know that Blue peels off, White is soaked off in water.
Supposedly Blue allows smaller traces than White (I know Blue does allow
small traces because I've done them). With Blue, the iron (I use a
clothes iron) does have to be hot enough (I select "linen") and pressure
- but not too much - is necessary. It takes some practice!

In the 1970's I had photographic supplies and did make PC boards using
high contrast "copy" sheet (5x7) film and spray-on resist. The results
were very, very good. I went to PnP only after losing my darkroom when
I moved my household.

 

[Sotris Pdmtr]

Hi
Check this :
http://www.geocities.com/pdmtr/
Has lot of infos for PnP (Blue)
I think "Blue" is more resistant on "scracthes", and has better
"resolution", meaning , doing thinner tracks with it. We going down to
some mil's with it.
however I prefer these method than UV exposure, because is good for
prototypes on the fly, and more cost effective also!!!
Regards

Sotris Pdmtr

ASPiSYS Ltd.
P.O.Box 14386
Athens 11510
GREECE
Tel : +30 210 7719 544
Fax : +30 210 7714 983



csebastian@personal.ro (Chisvasi Sebastian) wrote in message news:<79a66ecc.0309021327.49b6fa36@posting.google.com>...

What is the perfect techniques to use Press'n Peel to PCB?
My PCB is looking great when i transfer the image from PnP, but after
i pull it out the acid it looks like i've sandpaper it ... i don't
know what else to do ... (

Thanks ...

 

[Andre]

sotris@my-deja.com (Sotris Pdmtr) wrote in message news:<4f72a950.0309040032.13709fbd@posting.google.com>...

Hi
Check this :
http://www.geocities.com/pdmtr/
Has lot of infos for PnP (Blue)
I think "Blue" is more resistant on "scracthes", and has better
"resolution", meaning , doing thinner tracks with it. We going down to
some mil's with it.
however I prefer these method than UV exposure, because is good for
prototypes on the fly, and more cost effective also!!!
Regards

Get this month's EPE , someone in the UK published his preferred method .



-A

Sotris Pdmtr

ASPiSYS Ltd.
P.O.Box 14386
Athens 11510
GREECE
Tel : +30 210 7719 544
Fax : +30 210 7714 983



csebastian@personal.ro (Chisvasi Sebastian) wrote in message news:<79a66ecc.0309021327.49b6fa36@posting.google.com>...
What is the perfect techniques to use Press'n Peel to PCB?
My PCB is looking great when i transfer the image from PnP, but after
i pull it out the acid it looks like i've sandpaper it ... i don't
know what else to do ... (

Thanks ...

 

[JeffM]

Have you set your printer properties for maximum DPI?

I sent output to an old HP and got half the page printed
(what did print looked good).
Played around and figured out that it didn't have much memory
(tweaked the resolution downwards);
the whole thing printed then, but transfer results looked poor.