An interesting soldering iron

E

eltan

Guest
An interesting soldering iron - The Cold Heat Soldering Tool is a cordless
tool that heats quickly and cools down nearly as fast. It creates the heat
right in the proprietary tip material, making the tool 20 times more
efficient than the average conventional soldering iron. The tip reaches
500şF in less than 1 second for many types of joints and cools to the touch
in 1-5 seconds so you can put it away - without any waiting.

More info @ http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/69d3/

cheers
 
"eltan"
An interesting soldering iron - The Cold Heat Soldering Tool is a cordless
tool that heats quickly and cools down nearly as fast. It creates the heat
right in the proprietary tip material, making the tool 20 times more
efficient than the average conventional soldering iron. The tip reaches
500şF in less than 1 second for many types of joints and cools to the
touch
in 1-5 seconds so you can put it away - without any waiting.

More info @ http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/69d3/
Click to expand...


** Heats to maybe 1000F and passes high current through the joint ???

Lethal.



............. Phil
 
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 02:24:23 +1100, "eltan" <eltan@start.com.au>
wrote:

An interesting soldering iron - The Cold Heat Soldering Tool is a cordless
tool that heats quickly and cools down nearly as fast. It creates the heat
right in the proprietary tip material, making the tool 20 times more
efficient than the average conventional soldering iron. The tip reaches
500şF in less than 1 second for many types of joints and cools to the touch
in 1-5 seconds so you can put it away - without any waiting.

More info @ http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/69d3/

cheers



the good ol' 3.3v scope iron would achieve this by using a carbon
Click to expand...
element directly behind the tip. while not taking 1 second as you
quote here, it's 4-5 second heating time was pretty impressive.

cool- down time is another matter however


I think you will find at the end of the day that the secret to rapid
heating and cooling is having a small tip/element mass - and make the
barrel so its a poor thermal conductor as possible.



for cordless irons its hard to beat the gas powered ones..
 
KLR wrote:
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 02:24:23 +1100, "eltan" <eltan@start.com.au
wrote:

An interesting soldering iron - The Cold Heat Soldering Tool is a
cordless tool that heats quickly and cools down nearly as fast. It
creates the heat right in the proprietary tip material, making the
tool 20 times more efficient than the average conventional soldering
iron. The tip reaches 500şF in less than 1 second for many types of
joints and cools to the touch in 1-5 seconds so you can put it away
- without any waiting.

More info @ http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/69d3/

cheers



the good ol' 3.3v scope iron would achieve this by using a carbon
element directly behind the tip. while not taking 1 second as you
quote here, it's 4-5 second heating time was pretty impressive.
Click to expand...
The one mentioned seems to have a split tip with 2 electrodes that
short-circuit the 4 AA batteries when you touch then to the job, so you're
essentially passing a bunch of current through the area PCB pad, component
lead, wire, whatever that's between the 2 electrodes. It might work, but I
can imagine it'd be a pain trying to get both electrodes to touch in some
situations.
 
"Russ"
The one mentioned seems to have a split tip with 2 electrodes that
short-circuit the 4 AA batteries when you touch then to the job, so you're
essentially passing a bunch of current through the area PCB pad, component
lead, wire, whatever that's between the 2 electrodes. It might work, but I
can imagine it'd be a pain trying to get both electrodes to touch in some
situations.
Click to expand...

** Not to mention that shorting alkalines is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS !!

If they are series connected then even more so.


BTW That is a very sus looking site.



............... Phil
 
They say there is nothing new under the sun - well maybe, but I do remember
as a kid buying a quick heat soldering 'iron' that consisted of 2 carbon
elements/tips mounted on a barrel - sort of like 2x scope carbons but
external. Hit the joint/metal/wire etc with these and they conducted a
current to the joint area which heated the joint etc etc. Bloody crude, but
remember in those days (mid 50s or so) joints were BIG compared to later on
and today.

It was my first electric iron, and replace the one I had been using that I
had to heat up on the gas stove - and of course mum wasn't that happy with me
cluttering up her kitchen while wiring my radios etc.

I was happy when later on I could afford a 'proper' electric soldering iron.

And much later I was delighted when I got a scope iron for a Christmas pressy
- around 1956? 58? Cant remember now, but still got it somewhere.

David

Russ wrote:

The one mentioned seems to have a split tip with 2 electrodes that
short-circuit the 4 AA batteries when you touch then to the job, so you're
essentially passing a bunch of current through the area PCB pad, component
lead, wire, whatever that's between the 2 electrodes. It might work, but I
can imagine it'd be a pain trying to get both electrodes to touch in some
situations.
Click to expand...
 
"quietguy" <david1133@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41E673A8.19E377A1@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au...

It was my first electric iron, and replace the one I had been using that I
had to heat up on the gas stove - and of course mum wasn't that happy with
me
cluttering up her kitchen while wiring my radios etc.
Click to expand...
I used to use the gas-bath-heater pilot to heat up a brass screw held by
pliers,.....those were the days,..BED resistors and paper caps.

Jason
 
....and a first valve radio using a 1T4 and just-about-flat batteries scavenged
from Bing Lee Fairfield

David

Jason James wrote:

"quietguy" <david1133@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41E673A8.19E377A1@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au...


It was my first electric iron, and replace the one I had been using that I
had to heat up on the gas stove - and of course mum wasn't that happy with
me
cluttering up her kitchen while wiring my radios etc.

I used to use the gas-bath-heater pilot to heat up a brass screw held by
pliers,.....those were the days,..BED resistors and paper caps.

Jason
Click to expand...
 
You got me on the battery models, I saw a couple, but no batteries (B for HT
and what for filaments?)...remeber those car radio valves designed to run
12v anode supplies? The anode was wrapped real close to the grids.

Jason

"quietguy" <david1133@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41E8628F.94292D94@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au...
...and a first valve radio using a 1T4 and just-about-flat batteries
scavenged
from Bing Lee Fairfield

David

Jason James wrote:

"quietguy" <david1133@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:41E673A8.19E377A1@REMOVE-TO-REPLYoptusnet.com.au...


It was my first electric iron, and replace the one I had been using
that I
had to heat up on the gas stove - and of course mum wasn't that happy
with
me
cluttering up her kitchen while wiring my radios etc.

I used to use the gas-bath-heater pilot to heat up a brass screw held by
pliers,.....those were the days,..BED resistors and paper caps.

Jason
Click to expand...
 
IIRC the filament used 1.4v or so - as I had no cash in those days (or now! -
small world aint it?) I used those big round single cells - Eveready No.6? that
were used by the PMG for something or other - naturally when I got them they
were nearly flat but ran the IT4 OK.

For the B battery I remember using both 9 volt (a flat battery with a row of
spring clips on top?) or nearly flat 45 volt batts that Bing Lees repair guy
had removed from customers sets. Sort of remember 90v batts as well, but...

Ahh those were the days - anyone remember the AR5 receivers? I had one of
those at one time - used to listen to the police radio etc..

David

Jason James wrote:

You got me on the battery models, I saw a couple, but no batteries (B for HT
and what for filaments?)...remeber those car radio valves designed to run
12v anode supplies? The anode was wrapped real close to the grids.
Click to expand...
 
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