An early Christmas present...

J

Jeff Layman

Guest
A bit OT, as this is not one of the usual sophisticated repairs posted here.

SWMBO was not happy as the hand-held rechargeable vacuum cleaner was
failing to switch on most of the time. It used a simple slide switch,
but the motor worked barely once in a dozen attempts.

I dismantled it to find a simple slide switch - in the back "off"
position the 10 NiMH batteries were connected to the charging circuit,
and slid forward they were instead connected to the motor. A few squirts
of WD40 failed to solve the intermittent operation, so I removed the
switch to examine it.

And found my Christmas present! I usually find these Chinese imports are
made to the cheapest spec possible, and expected to find a single-pole
single toggle switch. But no, this was a /double/ pole single toggle
switch, and the other pole was unused. So I just soldered a wire bridge
across to the unused pole, and the switch now works perfectly again.

But how long that pole will last is another matter...

--

Jeff
 
On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:25:00 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:
But no, this was a /double/ pole single toggle
switch, and the other pole was unused. So I just soldered a wire bridge
across to the unused pole, and the switch now works perfectly again.

But how long that pole will last is another matter...
Click to expand...

At least as long as the original pole did hopefully, but it would have lasted forever if they thought to use both contacts simultaneously when they assembled it.

I've seen crappy stereos use half a switch as well.
 
On 12/23/2014, 7:24 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
A bit OT, as this is not one of the usual sophisticated repairs posted
here.

SWMBO was not happy as the hand-held rechargeable vacuum cleaner was
failing to switch on most of the time. It used a simple slide switch,
but the motor worked barely once in a dozen attempts.

I dismantled it to find a simple slide switch - in the back "off"
position the 10 NiMH batteries were connected to the charging circuit,
and slid forward they were instead connected to the motor. A few squirts
of WD40 failed to solve the intermittent operation, so I removed the
switch to examine it.

And found my Christmas present! I usually find these Chinese imports are
made to the cheapest spec possible, and expected to find a single-pole
single toggle switch. But no, this was a /double/ pole single toggle
switch, and the other pole was unused. So I just soldered a wire bridge
across to the unused pole, and the switch now works perfectly again.

But how long that pole will last is another matter...
Click to expand...

Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor it is anyone's guess as
to how long this will last.

WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo. Good luck!

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
John Robertson wrote:

> Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor ...

** Only so because metal objects covered in oil tend not to rust or corrode since atmospheric water and oxygen are largely excluded.

WD-40 is more correctly characterised as a hydrocarbon grease solvent that also lubricates.

WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo.
Click to expand...

** No more than a light mineral oil does.


.... Phil
 
On 12/24/2014, 6:54 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:

Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor ...

** Only so because metal objects covered in oil tend not to rust or corrode since atmospheric water and oxygen are largely excluded.

WD-40 is more correctly characterised as a hydrocarbon grease solvent that also lubricates.

WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo.


** No more than a light mineral oil does.


... Phil
Click to expand...

Well, my experience with equipment that has had WD-40 sprayed on it by
loving owners is the picot points etc all gum up and we have to heat
them up to take them apart so we can clean out the gummed up goop.

In EVERY case when asked these machines had WD-40 sprayed on the workings.

I have yet to see other games of similar vintage that have not been
sprayed with WD-40 gum up anywhere near as bad that we have to heat the
parts to separate them. And I've been servicing arcade games for almost
40 years.

Hence my personal vendetta against the use of WD-40 as a lubricant.

It would be better to run some proper tests comparing WD-40 mixed with
various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with
some heat. I keep thinking I should do this, and perhaps I will soon...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On 12/25/2014, 5:12 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 12/24/2014, 6:54 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:

Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor ...

** Only so because metal objects covered in oil tend not to rust or
corrode since atmospheric water and oxygen are largely excluded.

WD-40 is more correctly characterised as a hydrocarbon grease solvent
that also lubricates.

WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo.


** No more than a light mineral oil does.


... Phil


Well, my experience with equipment that has had WD-40 sprayed on it by
loving owners is the picot (I meant PIVOT) points etc all gum up and we have to heat
them up to take them apart so we can clean out the gummed up goop.

In EVERY case when asked these machines had WD-40 sprayed on the workings.

I have yet to see other games of similar vintage that have not been
sprayed with WD-40 gum up anywhere near as bad that we have to heat the
parts to separate them. And I've been servicing arcade games for almost
40 years.

Hence my personal vendetta against the use of WD-40 as a lubricant.

It would be better to run some proper tests comparing WD-40 mixed with
various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with
some heat. I keep thinking I should do this, and perhaps I will soon...

John :-#)#
Click to expand...

I meant pivot points...

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On 12/25/2014 7:17 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 12/25/2014, 5:12 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 12/24/2014, 6:54 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:

Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor ...

** Only so because metal objects covered in oil tend not to rust or
corrode since atmospheric water and oxygen are largely excluded.

WD-40 is more correctly characterised as a hydrocarbon grease solvent
that also lubricates.

WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo.


** No more than a light mineral oil does.


... Phil


Well, my experience with equipment that has had WD-40 sprayed on it by
loving owners is the picot (I meant PIVOT) points etc all gum up and
we have to heat
them up to take them apart so we can clean out the gummed up goop.

In EVERY case when asked these machines had WD-40 sprayed on the
workings.

I have yet to see other games of similar vintage that have not been
sprayed with WD-40 gum up anywhere near as bad that we have to heat the
parts to separate them. And I've been servicing arcade games for almost
40 years.

Hence my personal vendetta against the use of WD-40 as a lubricant.

It would be better to run some proper tests comparing WD-40 mixed with
various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with
Click to expand...

It seems that was a test someone is/was running, there was a thread in
sed, seb or abse in the last three months.
Mikek
 
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