Amidon toroids, color code

U

Ubik3

Guest
Can you point me in the right direction?

I search for COMPLETE color codes for amidon toroids, cause I've some
of these with strange combination (for codes that I have): green first,
yellow second, or green first and second.

If you can show me some web pages for COMPLETE color codes, I'll be
very happy.

thanks!
 
In article <cttlif$8o7$1@theodyn.ncf.ca>,
Michael Black <et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:

Are you sure the toroids are from Amidon? Just because they are toroids
does not mean they come from them, and there is no standard color coding
for toroids. From another manufacturer, one can't tell from the color
unless one can uncover who made that particular toroid.

Amidon is just a reseller of toroids, well known because from a very
early time they've bought in bulk and sold them in small quantities to
hobbyists and prototypers. I forget who they get them from, it is a
well known bit of information, but uncover who makes them and find
that company's website and that may turn up information about the
color coding.
Click to expand...
I believe that most or all of Amidon's iron-powder toroids are made by
Micrometals, and their ferrites are made by Fair-Rite.

http://www.micrometals.com/
http://www.fair-rite.com/

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
many thanks to both,

Yes, for amidon toroids I mean generic toroids with two color band; I'm
really disappointed to know that there is no standard color coding, It
seems that no-amidon is almost useless if I don't know the producer :-\

I've see the micrometals site, but unfortunately they haven't toroids
with my color combination.

Many thanks however!
 
unfortunately I've only a cheap henry-meter...

Many thanks however!
 
"Ubik3" (gattamelata2@katamail.com) writes:
Can you point me in the right direction?

I search for COMPLETE color codes for amidon toroids, cause I've some
of these with strange combination (for codes that I have): green first,
yellow second, or green first and second.

If you can show me some web pages for COMPLETE color codes, I'll be
very happy.

thanks!
Have you checked their website (which I don't have the URL for)? They
Click to expand...
used to have pretty good material that they'd send out, so this might
be something they provide.

Are you sure the toroids are from Amidon? Just because they are toroids
does not mean they come from them, and there is no standard color coding
for toroids. From another manufacturer, one can't tell from the color
unless one can uncover who made that particular toroid.

Amidon is just a reseller of toroids, well known because from a very
early time they've bought in bulk and sold them in small quantities to
hobbyists and prototypers. I forget who they get them from, it is a
well known bit of information, but uncover who makes them and find
that company's website and that may turn up information about the
color coding.

Michael
 
Yes, for amidon toroids I mean generic toroids with two color band; I'm
really disappointed to know that there is no standard color coding, It
seems that no-amidon is almost useless if I don't know the producer :-\
Click to expand...
It's possible that you're seeing manufacturer-to-manufacturer
variations in standard codes, or you're seeing codes that were
specific to particular batches of toroids made for a particular
customer (the equivalent of "house numbers" on integrated circuits).

Best idea I can offer, is that you actually measure one or two toroids
of each size and color code. The olde-standard method should work
just fine - wind a toroid with a few turns of wire, leave an inch or
two of leads at the end, tack-solder a high-quality cap of known value
to the ends, and measure the resonant frequency with a grid-dip meter.
Alternatively, use an AADE or HP 130 or similar sort of inductance
meter.

This will tell you the inductance of the winding you put on, which
will let you calculate A(l), which will give you a reasonable chance
of figuring out what the iron or ferrite mix happens to be.

To refine things further you could stick the same wound-up toroid on a
Q meter, and measure the Q at various frequencies.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
"Dave Platt" <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote in message
news:1107k04hum87o4a@corp.supernews.com...
Yes, for amidon toroids I mean generic toroids with two color band;
I'm
really disappointed to know that there is no standard color coding,
It
seems that no-amidon is almost useless if I don't know the producer
:-\

It's possible that you're seeing manufacturer-to-manufacturer
variations in standard codes, or you're seeing codes that were
specific to particular batches of toroids made for a particular
customer (the equivalent of "house numbers" on integrated circuits).

Best idea I can offer, is that you actually measure one or two toroids
of each size and color code. The olde-standard method should work
just fine - wind a toroid with a few turns of wire, leave an inch or
two of leads at the end, tack-solder a high-quality cap of known value
to the ends, and measure the resonant frequency with a grid-dip meter.
Alternatively, use an AADE or HP 130 or similar sort of inductance
meter.
Click to expand...
It's a lot harder to measure a toroid with a dipmeter because the
magnetic field is so well contained inside the toroid. Might be a good
idea to leave enough lead to make a turn so you can couple the
dipmeter's coil to it.


This will tell you the inductance of the winding you put on, which
will let you calculate A(l), which will give you a reasonable chance
of figuring out what the iron or ferrite mix happens to be.

To refine things further you could stick the same wound-up toroid on a
Q meter, and measure the Q at various frequencies.
Click to expand...
Toroids are usually very high Q.


--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page:
http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
Click to expand...
 
Hello Watson,

It's a lot harder to measure a toroid with a dipmeter because the
magnetic field is so well contained inside the toroid. Might be a good
idea to leave enough lead to make a turn so you can couple the
dipmeter's coil to it.
Click to expand...
That's right, a dip meter is next to impossible to use on a good toroid.
I mean, you might just be able to see the meter needle dip but you may
have to ask the Sheriff to stop traffic on a nearby highway until you
are done...

Another option would be to hook up a toroid and cap as described, then
connect it to a generator using a resistor and a scope. Turn the dial
until resonance cometh along.

Best would be to target for frequencies below 10MHz so that stray
capacitances don't make the whole setup too fickle. For those who have
an analyzer the whole thing boils down to one glance at the screen. Some
of these can even do the math for you.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
In article <11097tn54kfuucd@corp.supernews.com>,
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

Best idea I can offer, is that you actually measure one or two toroids
of each size and color code. The olde-standard method should work
just fine - wind a toroid with a few turns of wire, leave an inch or
two of leads at the end, tack-solder a high-quality cap of known value
to the ends, and measure the resonant frequency with a grid-dip meter.
Alternatively, use an AADE or HP 130 or similar sort of inductance
meter.

It's a lot harder to measure a toroid with a dipmeter because the
magnetic field is so well contained inside the toroid. Might be a good
idea to leave enough lead to make a turn so you can couple the
dipmeter's coil to it.
Click to expand...
That was the reason I suggested leaving an inch or two of lead at the
end... just stick the dipmeter coil near the leads-with-capacitor and
it should couple well enough to give a dip.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
"Dave Platt" <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote in message
news:110bc0fi7pnoo7e@corp.supernews.com...
In article <11097tn54kfuucd@corp.supernews.com>,
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"
alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

Best idea I can offer, is that you actually measure one or two
toroids
of each size and color code. The olde-standard method should work
just fine - wind a toroid with a few turns of wire, leave an inch
or
two of leads at the end, tack-solder a high-quality cap of known
value
to the ends, and measure the resonant frequency with a grid-dip
meter.
Alternatively, use an AADE or HP 130 or similar sort of inductance
meter.

It's a lot harder to measure a toroid with a dipmeter because the
magnetic field is so well contained inside the toroid. Might be a
good
idea to leave enough lead to make a turn so you can couple the
dipmeter's coil to it.

That was the reason I suggested leaving an inch or two of lead at the
end... just stick the dipmeter coil near the leads-with-capacitor and
it should couple well enough to give a dip.

--
Click to expand...
I like my little AADE LC meter. On occasion it has done sumpthin'
funny, but it is usually right on. And when it does sumpthin' funny, it
is usually obvious that sumpthin' ain't right.
 
Hello Ubik,

unfortunately I've only a cheap henry-meter...
Click to expand...
If that isn't accurate enough you could always improvise. For example,
place a resistor in series and hook that up to a signal generator.
Measure the output voltage and then the voltage at the inductor alone,
using some high impedance probe and a scope.

Or place a cap in parallel to the inductor, still use a series resistor,
dial the generator through its range and see where resonance occurs.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
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