AB Landola semi-acoustic guitar electrics ,c 1960s

N

N_Cook

Guest
Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:h56hd4$2jn$1@news.eternal-september.org...
Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .
Click to expand...
Another odd query - a wood screw through the wood of the sound box into
nothing. Under the plate that holds 2 of the pots was a few turns of wire.
Would the 2 have been connected via some now missing thick grounding foil
stuck on the inside of the wood, then that wood screw, screwed into some now
absent block to sandwich the foil?

There is some useful dating info on
http://www.landola.fi/dating_your_guitar.html
but to get it tighter the pots are 4 off 250K marked Prem (looks like) and
a 4, along with the 250K stamped into the monkey metal is the number 437.
Unfortunately 4 off the same pots so don't know if a type number or week 37
of 1964 . This one has serial number in the 109 thousands.
caps are marked ERD FOL and 2 vertical lines like mark 2
 
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:h56pj8$oi4$1@news.eternal-september.org...
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:h56hd4$2jn$1@news.eternal-september.org...
Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .



Another odd query - a wood screw through the wood of the sound box into
nothing. Under the plate that holds 2 of the pots was a few turns of wire.
Would the 2 have been connected via some now missing thick grounding foil
stuck on the inside of the wood, then that wood screw, screwed into some
now
absent block to sandwich the foil?

There is some useful dating info on
http://www.landola.fi/dating_your_guitar.html
but to get it tighter the pots are 4 off 250K marked Prem (looks like)
and
a 4, along with the 250K stamped into the monkey metal is the number 437.
Unfortunately 4 off the same pots so don't know if a type number or week
37
of 1964 . This one has serial number in the 109 thousands.
caps are marked ERD FOL and 2 vertical lines like mark 2
Click to expand...
well it is semi-acoustic so added musicmakers, if anyone could advise on the
technicalities of pickup repair

I trod carefully and ground through the solder on the rear of the pickup
with a Dremmel. Just as well as the magnets are directly over the brass.

Chromed cover plate removed.
The output screened lead goes into the tissue paper, lower left
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/landola_pu1.jpg
looks as though no varnish /laquer and and just wrapped in tissue paper but
light hooking under does not shift the coil. Would it be glued underneath ,
unseen? Surely it would not be loosely laid in there with just compressed
tissue paper holding it in place. Very thin bakelite (the pinkish colour
trough) so must be incredibly fragile 45 years on.
 
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .
Click to expand...
Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?
 
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:313vo9.655.19.18@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .


Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?
Click to expand...
The paper and coil was lightly laquered in, not as obvious as magneto coil.
With child's toy wooden clothes peg, one wedge of, and small pectrum managed
to ease out the coil with only minor collateral damage to the wire and no
damage to the bakelite (will have to chemically clean oput the glued in
paper). Taken dimensions and weight to 10mg so should be able to rewind
another. Should be able to heat up and unwind on counter for the turns also.
Looks like bad assembly, in that in the process of wrapping the tissue paper
strip around the coil , the lay had been seriously disturbed and then
probably vibration/thermal changes/chaffing enough to make a break
somewhere. From the owner the odd woodscrew is for a now missing
finger/scratch plate.
 
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:313vo9.655.19.18@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .


Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?
Click to expand...

This is a 12 string version
http://www.hagstrom.org.uk/Other/Landola12/P1000606.jpg
of the same guitar, the one I have here is a 6 string, deep cherry colour
version and tremolo arm.
Exactly the same fretwork , so quite a chinese puzzle removing the 2 off
paired up pots and brasswork out through the slot. The same "crackalure"
evident on the top face of the body in that pic
 
On Tue, 4 Aug 2009 08:54:34 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:313vo9.655.19.18@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .


Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?


This is a 12 string version
http://www.hagstrom.org.uk/Other/Landola12/P1000606.jpg
of the same guitar, the one I have here is a 6 string, deep cherry colour
version and tremolo arm.
Exactly the same fretwork , so quite a chinese puzzle removing the 2 off
paired up pots and brasswork out through the slot. The same "crackalure"
evident on the top face of the body in that pic
Click to expand...
Looks like a Gibson E335 or Hag Viking clone. Reading your other post
and description of the pickup build it seems standard for that type
some refer to a Toaster pickup although the true toaster would be
slotted completely across giving it it's toaster-like appearance.

The lacquer cracking isn't that unique for the era. Good luck winding
the pickup not that luck is mandated here. What's the serial number?
I'd like to know about when it was made. Probably 70's.
 
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:3167s6.77u.17.11@news.alt.net...
On Tue, 4 Aug 2009 08:54:34 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:


Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:313vo9.655.19.18@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for
guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all
sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the
rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside
the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure
of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .


Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?


This is a 12 string version
http://www.hagstrom.org.uk/Other/Landola12/P1000606.jpg
of the same guitar, the one I have here is a 6 string, deep cherry colour
version and tremolo arm.
Exactly the same fretwork , so quite a chinese puzzle removing the 2 off
paired up pots and brasswork out through the slot. The same "crackalure"
evident on the top face of the body in that pic


Looks like a Gibson E335 or Hag Viking clone. Reading your other post
and description of the pickup build it seems standard for that type
some refer to a Toaster pickup although the true toaster would be
slotted completely across giving it it's toaster-like appearance.

The lacquer cracking isn't that unique for the era. Good luck winding
the pickup not that luck is mandated here. What's the serial number?
I'd like to know about when it was made. Probably 70's.
Click to expand...
After 1961, before 1973, the serial number 109,000s could put it in 1964 ,
according to "437" on the pots and roughly mid 60s via the hagstrom dating
file.

Any idea of the pickup make? No name/numbers found on /in them, Landola own
?, the ones here look identical to the ones on that 12 string version,
offset slots, chrome cover, black bakelate base, screw positions etc.
 
On Tue, 4 Aug 2009 17:31:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:3167s6.77u.17.11@news.alt.net...
On Tue, 4 Aug 2009 08:54:34 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:


Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:313vo9.655.19.18@news.alt.net...
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:16:55 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

Firstly a more suitable and appropriately active usenet forum for
guitar
pickup rewinding etc ?
I worked out how to remove the electrics through the fretwork, all
sorts
of
minor problems in the wiring etc but main one is no signal from one of
the
pickups.
One pickup measures 7.7K and the other megohms.
I assume no capacitor inside that one . Maybe just a break in the
rather
corroded and aged-looking screened wire but the other end is inside
the
pickup brasswork. Before plumbing type desoldering the casing closure
of
the
pickup, I could do with some advice, as a novice at this .


Pickups should measure anywhere from 5 - 15k dc resistance depending
on being a single coil, humbucker, high output.

Next question?


This is a 12 string version
http://www.hagstrom.org.uk/Other/Landola12/P1000606.jpg
of the same guitar, the one I have here is a 6 string, deep cherry colour
version and tremolo arm.
Exactly the same fretwork , so quite a chinese puzzle removing the 2 off
paired up pots and brasswork out through the slot. The same "crackalure"
evident on the top face of the body in that pic


Looks like a Gibson E335 or Hag Viking clone. Reading your other post
and description of the pickup build it seems standard for that type
some refer to a Toaster pickup although the true toaster would be
slotted completely across giving it it's toaster-like appearance.

The lacquer cracking isn't that unique for the era. Good luck winding
the pickup not that luck is mandated here. What's the serial number?
I'd like to know about when it was made. Probably 70's.

After 1961, before 1973, the serial number 109,000s could put it in 1964 ,
according to "437" on the pots and roughly mid 60s via the hagstrom dating
file.
Click to expand...
Landola started to use a 5-XXXXXX serial in the 70's. If it started
with 5 it was built in 1975.

Any idea of the pickup make? No name/numbers found on /in them, Landola own
?, the ones here look identical to the ones on that 12 string version,
offset slots, chrome cover, black bakelate base, screw positions etc.
Click to expand...
Good question. One thast I don't have a specific answer for. Yes they
could have been made by Landola as they were making enough guitars
to make their own. Could have been made by Hag, FranzPix, Schaller,
Shadow, Hofner or a host of others. I've seen that style but couldn't
pin a manu on it if my life depended on it.
 
serial number is in the range 109,000 to 110,000

The owner reckons Ibanez pickups but google-imaging shows nothing like the
ones here.
 
On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:48:41 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

serial number is in the range 109,000 to 110,000
Click to expand...
Well my reference doesn't show much for that except a pre 1970.

The owner reckons Ibanez pickups but google-imaging shows nothing like the
ones here.
Click to expand...
I doubt it. Ibanez didn't even have their own factory until the late
60s early 70s.

I'll come across it some day. For now, the oddest guitar I own carries
the brand name Horugel :)

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/music/DSCN0309.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/music/DSCN0311.jpg

Dig those crazy sliding interactive pickup switches.

I need a pickup for it but the rest of the hardware is boxed. Maybe
one day I'll find the motivation to make it playable. Right now I'm
restoring a 1963 Gibson double cutaway Melody Maker. It's been routed
for a neck pickup and switch originally having just one P90 at the
bridge. I acquired this several years back from a former band member
who is now deceased. Still lots of work to be done before it's ready
for a new Tobacco Yellow sunburst finish.
 
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