A question about induction heaters

D

_defaullt

Guest
I've had occasion to work on some commercial induction heaters, and
they all used water cooled induction coils. I was wondering how the
current crop of induction hotplate gizmos deal with self heating of
coils.
 
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 07:42:49 -0400, _defaullt
<defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:

I've had occasion to work on some commercial induction heaters, and
they all used water cooled induction coils. I was wondering how the
current crop of induction hotplate gizmos deal with self heating of
coils.

There is a fan beneath the coil which is sufficient to blow away
the 5% loss.


w.
 
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 16:09:59 +0200, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@.- ---
-.dotat> wrote:

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 07:42:49 -0400, _defaullt
defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:

I've had occasion to work on some commercial induction heaters, and
they all used water cooled induction coils. I was wondering how the
current crop of induction hotplate gizmos deal with self heating of
coils.

There is a fan beneath the coil which is sufficient to blow away
the 5% loss.
No ferrites or edge wound copper ribbon spirals, or fancy coil
temperature monitoring/power modulation?
 
_defaullt <defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 16:09:59 +0200, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@.- ---
-.dotat> wrote:

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 07:42:49 -0400, _defaullt
defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:

I've had occasion to work on some commercial induction heaters, and
they all used water cooled induction coils. I was wondering how the
current crop of induction hotplate gizmos deal with self heating of
coils.

There is a fan beneath the coil which is sufficient to blow away
the 5% loss.

No ferrites or edge wound copper ribbon spirals, or fancy coil
temperature monitoring/power modulation?

nope.

I have a throw away type unit that claims 1800 watts, and I don't question
that that's probably close to what it can consume. It really makes a gas
stove look weak when it comes to boiling water and cooking stuff.

the coil is just some stranded wire in a pancake type spiral. There's no
ferrite, and PFC seems integral to the unit as there are no large filter caps.

There's a temp sensor heatsink compounded to the top glass which it used
for controlling the unit in a series of preset temperture ranges. It may
also double some sort of protection device, while under control of the
microprocessor running the thing.

The power levels the circuit run at are impressive and the cooling fan
seem to only be there to dissipate heat from the upper cooking surface
itself.

It's hit about 11 months of use and of course in it's chinese build
quality the only part to have broken is the flexible plastic bezel over
the pushbuttons. Most of the buttons are cracked just over the switch. A
layer of bookbinding tape should make me forger that ever happened.
 
On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 23:01:19 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

_defaullt <defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 16:09:59 +0200, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@.- ---
-.dotat> wrote:

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 07:42:49 -0400, _defaullt
defaulter_@defaulter.net> wrote:

I've had occasion to work on some commercial induction heaters, and
they all used water cooled induction coils. I was wondering how the
current crop of induction hotplate gizmos deal with self heating of
coils.

There is a fan beneath the coil which is sufficient to blow away
the 5% loss.

No ferrites or edge wound copper ribbon spirals, or fancy coil
temperature monitoring/power modulation?

nope.

I have a throw away type unit that claims 1800 watts, and I don't question
that that's probably close to what it can consume. It really makes a gas
stove look weak when it comes to boiling water and cooking stuff.

the coil is just some stranded wire in a pancake type spiral. There's no
ferrite, and PFC seems integral to the unit as there are no large filter caps.

There's a temp sensor heatsink compounded to the top glass which it used
for controlling the unit in a series of preset temperture ranges. It may
also double some sort of protection device, while under control of the
microprocessor running the thing.

The power levels the circuit run at are impressive and the cooling fan
seem to only be there to dissipate heat from the upper cooking surface
itself.

It's hit about 11 months of use and of course in it's chinese build
quality the only part to have broken is the flexible plastic bezel over
the pushbuttons. Most of the buttons are cracked just over the switch. A
layer of bookbinding tape should make me forger that ever happened.
Thanks I believed they couldn't be too fancy given the prices and
pedigree, but wondered about the coils.
 

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