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Maybe he's the weirdo that pees in the mailbox at the end of the street.Jim Thompson wrote:
On Sat, 01 Jun 2013 23:13:54 -0400, Uncle Steve <stevet810@gmail.com
wrote:
On Sat, Jun 01, 2013 at 08:53:01PM -0400, Michael Black wrote:
On Sat, 1 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b97b4fc-d498-4dbb-9e3b-689da2458940@googlegroups.com...
Have a sh** load of the above. Get them free when shopping at Harbor
Freight.
Lately, when batteries fail, I started checking with a voltmeter.
Turns out that two of the three batteries always register circa 1.4
volts, while the third is about 0.6ą volts. Naturally, I started
keeping the two higher voltage cells instead of trashing all three.
Is this typical? Have I been needlessly wasting batteries this last 50
years?
They probably wouldn't be giving them away free if the batteries in
them were any good.
I don't know. IN the old days "batteries not icluded" wsa pretty
normal, but most things I've bought in recent years did have batteries
when applicable. And I find the batteries generally fairly good. Not
noticeably bad.
I don't know where the pricing comes from. I keep buying LED
flashlights (torches in some countries), and they come with batteries.
And then it often seems to make sense to buy a new one when the
batteries do die out An exaggeration, but I keep buying the LED
flashlights because they keep adding LEDs to them, making them brighter.
FOr that matter, I've needed button cells to replace worn out button
cells in various things, and for those that need the size, it's cheaper
to buy a 99cent or $1.49 laser pointer for the batteries than buy the
button cells separately. Yes, you can get the cells cheap in some
circles, but generally not as handy as where the laser pointers get
sold.
Ironically, the one LED flashlight that I care most about is faulty. I
have a 2AA Maglite, and a few years back got an LED replacement bulb,
which worked fine, but now has gotten flakey. I'm not sure if it's the
contacts, the LED module, or the Maglite. Ironic since the Maglite
wasn't cheap, and neither was the LED replacement, but the cheap LED
flashlights generally are fine.
I hate flashlights that use button cells. While LR44 or 2CR2025 cells
are relatively inexpensive, they really don't have a lot of capacity.
I have a 2AA maglite and a Fizer I-Beam X1 which takes 1 AA. I used
to have a Gerber "Infinity Ultra Task Light" 22-80010, but someone
stole it; 60+ hours on one AA. Button-cell flashlights are for day-
outings.
Regards,
Uncle Steve
Naaaah! Button cells are for my pocket Nano Light, for occasional
use, to peer into a mailbox after dark, etc.
...Jim Thompson
Ah, so that's you I see out at night rooming the streets?
We have junk stores around here too. I have a package of 9 i think it"Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1306012048120.23715@darkstar.example.org...
On Sat, 1 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b97b4fc-d498-4dbb-9e3b-689da2458940@googlegroups.com...
Have a sh** load of the above. Get them free when shopping at Harbor
Freight.
Lately, when batteries fail, I started checking with a voltmeter.
Turns
out that two of the three batteries always register circa 1.4 volts,
while
the third is about 0.6ą volts. Naturally, I started keeping the two
higher
voltage cells instead of trashing all three. Is this typical? Have
I been
needlessly wasting batteries this last 50 years?
They probably wouldn't be giving them away free if the batteries in
them were
any good.
I don't know. IN the old days "batteries not icluded" wsa pretty normal,
but most things I've bought in recent years did have batteries when
applicable. And I find the batteries generally fairly good. Not
noticeably bad.
I don't know where the pricing comes from. I keep buying LED flashlights
(torches in some countries), and they come with batteries. And then it
often seems to make sense to buy a new one when the batteries do die out
An exaggeration, but I keep buying the LED flashlights because they keep
adding LEDs to them, making them brighter.
FOr that matter, I've needed button cells to replace worn out button
cells
in various things, and for those that need the size, it's cheaper to
buy a
99cent or $1.49 laser pointer for the batteries than buy the button cells
separately. Yes, you can get the cells cheap in some circles, but
generally not as handy as where the laser pointers get sold.
Just lately we've had numerous discount stores spring up all over the
place like Poundland where everything is 1 GBP, usually there's quite a
few places you can buy a card of button or coin cells for around Ł1.
IIRC the button cells are about 30 in assorted sizes per card, the coin
cells are only 8 - 4x 2032, 2x 2025 & 2x 2016.
The coin cells mostly go in the outside temperature sender for my desk
clock-thermometer, they don't last quite as long as the expensive named
brand ones, but at that price, who cares.
File the solder lugs off a couple of holders and seal the stumps over withIan Field wrote:
"Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1306012048120.23715@darkstar.example.org...
On Sat, 1 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b97b4fc-d498-4dbb-9e3b-689da2458940@googlegroups.com...
Have a sh** load of the above. Get them free when shopping at Harbor
Freight.
Lately, when batteries fail, I started checking with a voltmeter.
Turns
out that two of the three batteries always register circa 1.4 volts,
while
the third is about 0.6ą volts. Naturally, I started keeping the two
higher
voltage cells instead of trashing all three. Is this typical? Have I
been
needlessly wasting batteries this last 50 years?
They probably wouldn't be giving them away free if the batteries in
them were
any good.
I don't know. IN the old days "batteries not icluded" wsa pretty
normal,
but most things I've bought in recent years did have batteries when
applicable. And I find the batteries generally fairly good. Not
noticeably bad.
I don't know where the pricing comes from. I keep buying LED
flashlights
(torches in some countries), and they come with batteries. And then it
often seems to make sense to buy a new one when the batteries do die out
An exaggeration, but I keep buying the LED flashlights because they keep
adding LEDs to them, making them brighter.
FOr that matter, I've needed button cells to replace worn out button
cells
in various things, and for those that need the size, it's cheaper to buy
a
99cent or $1.49 laser pointer for the batteries than buy the button
cells
separately. Yes, you can get the cells cheap in some circles, but
generally not as handy as where the laser pointers get sold.
Just lately we've had numerous discount stores spring up all over the
place like Poundland where everything is 1 GBP, usually there's quite a
few places you can buy a card of button or coin cells for around Ł1. IIRC
the button cells are about 30 in assorted sizes per card, the coin cells
are only 8 - 4x 2032, 2x 2025 & 2x 2016.
The coin cells mostly go in the outside temperature sender for my desk
clock-thermometer, they don't last quite as long as the expensive named
brand ones, but at that price, who cares.
We have junk stores around here too. I have a package of 9 i think it was
of CR2032's for under 2 bucks. And they also have a variety pack of
coin cells for that price, too.
The CR2032's work great for my key fob that seems to like eating cells
for my Jeep. It has a keyless entry and ignition system.
All the three-cell flashlights I see use AAA batteries -- not"Uncle Steve" <stevet810@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d27870280279f22-6d9fe@gmail.com...
On Sat, Jun 01, 2013 at 08:53:01PM -0400, Michael Black wrote:
On Sat, 1 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b97b4fc-d498-4dbb-9e3b-689da2458940@googlegroups.com...
Have a sh** load of the above. Get them free when shopping at Harbor
Freight.
Lately, when batteries fail, I started checking with a voltmeter.
Turns
out that two of the three batteries always register circa 1.4 volts,
while the third is about 0.6ą volts. Naturally, I started keeping the
two higher voltage cells instead of trashing all three. Is this
typical?
Have I been needlessly wasting batteries this last 50 years?
They probably wouldn't be giving them away free if the batteries in them
were any good.
I don't know. IN the old days "batteries not icluded" wsa pretty normal,
but most things I've bought in recent years did have batteries when
applicable. And I find the batteries generally fairly good. Not
noticeably bad.
I don't know where the pricing comes from. I keep buying LED flashlights
(torches in some countries), and they come with batteries. And then it
often seems to make sense to buy a new one when the batteries do die out
An exaggeration, but I keep buying the LED flashlights because they keep
adding LEDs to them, making them brighter.
FOr that matter, I've needed button cells to replace worn out button
cells
in various things, and for those that need the size, it's cheaper to buy
a
99cent or $1.49 laser pointer for the batteries than buy the button cells
separately. Yes, you can get the cells cheap in some circles, but
generally not as handy as where the laser pointers get sold.
Ironically, the one LED flashlight that I care most about is faulty. I
have a 2AA Maglite, and a few years back got an LED replacement bulb,
which worked fine, but now has gotten flakey. I'm not sure if it's the
contacts, the LED module, or the Maglite. Ironic since the Maglite
wasn't
cheap, and neither was the LED replacement, but the cheap LED flashlights
generally are fine.
I hate flashlights that use button cells. While LR44 or 2CR2025 cells
are relatively inexpensive, they really don't have a lot of capacity.
I have a 2AA maglite and a Fizer I-Beam X1 which takes 1 AA. I used
to have a Gerber "Infinity Ultra Task Light" 22-80010, but someone
stole it; 60+ hours on one AA. Button-cell flashlights are for day-
outings.
These days I avoid any flashlight that isn't LED, I make the further
distinction that it should be a 2 cell design, as this requires an inverter
to make the LED Vf. Many 3 cell LED lamps I've seen don't even have a
current limiting resistor - instead relying on the cell's internal
resistance to protect the LED.
It's difficult to assess how an individual product drives its LED.If I saw a pricey 3D lamp - it might have a buck/boost converter - but I'd
check the small print before parting with any cash!