280V motor on 230V circuit

In article <x04p97adpr.fsf@hax.se>,
Thomas Tornblom <thomas@Hax.SE> writes:
Residential power in Sweden is 400V 3 phase, main fuses normally 25A
or lower.

Room outlets are wired with one phase, neutral and ground to get 230V.

There is a smallish transformer station in the neighborhood which
probably powers two entire blocks. I would guess somewhere around 20-30
houses.
Similar in UK.

In most European countries, there's a single phase current limit,
above which you have to take a 3-phase supply. In the UK, that's
100A, so it's not very common to have a 3-phase supply although
you can ask for one if you want a 3-phase supply. In some other
European countries, the single phase limit is as low as 20A, so
just about everyone has a 3-phase supply.

Residential substation transformers (11kV down to 230/400) are
usually 1MVA, feeding a number of streets. A substation may have
more than one transformer in some cases (although they usually
only start out with one). Obviously, smaller transformers are
used where there aren't so many houses, and these are sometimes
pole mounted if the wiring is overhead.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
 
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On Sat, 10 May 2008 19:59:01 +0100, Baron wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

James Sweet wrote:


The battery is dead. For whatever reason, this causes a lot of UPS's
to behave exactly as described. If it sat for several years, the
battery will not take a charge, it needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the responses.

Really? Absolutely nothing -- no attempts at all to recharge, not
even
flicker of the lights or a hum of the transformer? Dead as a
doornail ...


You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them in the unit.

Its unlikely that it will work.  The UPS does a self test upon switch on
which involves a load test on the battery.  If the battery cannot pass
this test the UPS just shuts down again.  Also they are sealed gell
types.  Although I must admit that I have in the past cracked off the
plastic bung and added water to try and recover them !  Without success
I might add.
I would try it regardless of how likely/unlikely it is to work. Who knows
the OP might get lucky and it really isn't much trouble to go through
knowing the unit he has.
 
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios wrote:
The regulation, at least in Europe, is done at 150/15 kV substations and at
the HV side of the transformers, thus at 150 kV. Typical current for 2 x 25
MVA transformers is 150 A, 150 kV and of course secondary at 15 kV, 1500 A.
The regulation is done automatically with tap changers, live. The local
transformers at your neighborhood are fixed tap, 15 kV (they intend to
change everything to 20 kV).

So they have developed 100% efficient transformers?


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
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If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm
 
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article <g04cc6$edo$1@mouse.otenet.gr>,
"Tzortzakakis Dimitrios" <noone@nospam.void> writes:

? "Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> ?????? ??? ??????
news:48246da4$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...
In article <WMGTj.5083$ch1.2983@trndny09>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

It's not 110V, it's 240V, we simply split it with a grounded center tap
which gives 120V between each side and neutral, or 240V between the
sides..

It's the regulation at 120V which people notice.
If you want to call it a 240V supply, then you
need to call EU supplies 400V or 415V. That's
equally misleading.

There's no transformer per house, except rural applications. Generally
5-10
houses are on each transformer, sometimes more. The problem with long
runs
is that the voltage fluctuates substantially with large loads such as
central air conditioning. Standard North American residential service is
200
Amps 240V, I gather this is quite a bit larger than typical European
domestic stuff, so stretching it over 1km distance would require
prohibitively large cables or suffer from wide voltage swings. Makes more
sense to run 7200V down the street and locate a smallish transformer near
every half dozen houses.

The transformers are small in comparison, which gives poor
regulation in comparison (and as I said before, it's the
regulation at 120V which is the primary concern -- regulation
of 240V across 2 hots doesn't matter much for typical US 240V
loads).
The regulation, at least in Europe, is done at 150/15 kV substations and at
the HV side of the transformers, thus at 150 kV. Typical current for 2 x 25
MVA transformers is 150 A, 150 kV and of course secondary at 15 kV, 1500 A.
The regulation is done automatically with tap changers, live. The local
transformers at your neighborhood are fixed tap, 15 kV (they intend to
change everything to 20 kV).

I'm referring to the transformer regulation (and also the LV
supply cable voltage drop) response to load changes. E.g. if
I switch on my 10kW shower, that's a 0.1% change against the
max load of my 1MVA substation transformer and therefore
makes no perceivable difference to the voltage in my house.
If I were to try that on a US 50kVA transformer, that load
is going to trigger a change of 20% of the transformer
regulation, which is much more significant and would
certainly be visible as a brightness change in light bulbs.

Having lived in both countries, I would say it's pretty much
expected in the US that lights dim even with quite moderate
loads coming on, whereas it's rare in the UK (generally only
in rural areas with long supply lines). There are many
contributory factors to this difference, but the 120V verses
240V (or if you must, 240V verses 415V) is ultimately the
underpinning reason.

The central air kicks on without my lights dimming, and I am in North
Central Florica.

Automatic tap changing in the HV network is completely
invisible to the residential consumer, as indeed it should
be.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

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Hi ,

I decided to lift the board and look at the solder for the device
sanyo 313e.
Before I could do anything the V shaped metal (heatsink?) attached to
the
device just fell off. The plastic screw holding it had just cracked
in
half.
There also is a thin piece of plastic between the device and the
heatsink.
I'm assuming that they do want the device to touch the metal.
I could not find a another plastic screw, so I use a metal one with
an
insulating washer. I hope that is ok. Why does the device need to be
insulated from the metal heatsink. Is it strictly pecautionary, in
case
the heatsink comes in contact with something else. Would it be ok
to put some cpu grease between the device and the plastic insulator?
Anyway after all this the solder looked ok, so I did not
resolder.
I wonder if my problem all along was that the heatsink
was just hanging on by a thread.
Anyway it seems to work ok. I'll run it for a while with the case
open
as a precaution.


Thanks



On May 3, 5:19 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net>
wrote:
tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:92dc789c-7188-460c-aed3-e3df24b80df4@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have left the case open, and have the thing sitting on a shelf
vertically.
It worked flawlessly for about 3 days, then spontaneouslt theradio
went dead again.
I ever so gently tapped the heatsink that this transistor is on, and
once
again everything is fine. I have not lifted the board yet to look at
the solder
underneath. However I'm beginning to think that it is the transistor
itself
that is the problem. Can I find the exact replacement atradioshack?
If I'm going to lift the board, I'm thinking it's probably makes sense
to replace the
device.

  Thanks

On Apr 29, 2:32 am, "JANA" <j...@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote:





I strongly suggest you find and fix the cold solder connection that
caused the fault. Or if the transistor is intermittant, replace it.

--

JANA
_____

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:a60fee7d-739c-427d-bf6c-301464aa4ceb@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
OK I took the thing apart and sure enough, there was a sanyo 313E
mounted on a V shaped piece of metal(heatsink?). When I tapped
gently on the metal, everything now works fine.
The small board in question is AWR-011A, which according
to the schematic is the power supply unit.
I would think that if this was the roblem it would effect
everything, not just theradio.
Anyway I will run it for awhile with the case open,
and see if the problem recurs.

On Apr 26, 11:50 am, "Bob Shuman" <no_spam_...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Sounds like something is intermittent in theradiosection (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd
start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board
safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points
with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate
the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt
meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply
voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through theradiosection or
take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com....

I have apioneersx-727receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently theradiostopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally theradiowill spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just resolder the transistor. You will see that the solder connections there
have ring cracks from age and heating / cooling over the course of time.
Common problem.

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
 
phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:
In alt.engineering.electrical Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

| The central air kicks on without my lights dimming, and I am in North
| Central Florica.

I bet it's on its own branch circuit, too.

Of course it is, that's the only legal way to do it.
 
On May 10, 7:25 pm, Brian <standingwaterDELETET...@networksplus.net>
wrote:
Thanks, I'll give it a try!  I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars.  Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.
Gell cells have a bad habit of completely failing if left
discharged.

Your question is this. Did the gell cell or charger fail? Use the
multimeter. When UPS is plugged in, that battery voltage should
increase slightly immediately. If yes, then the charger is working
and battery has failed. Battery voltage will rise. Battery voltage
may even rise to appropriate value. But then the UPS AC power cord is
disconnected, a defective battery will drop to near zero volts almost
immediately. This will provide the fasters and most comprehensive
answer since other suggestions cannot determine if UPS charger is
functional.
 
Brian wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2008 07:42:57 -0500, Brian wrote:

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace them
in the unit.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! I have a one-amp 12V trickle charger that I
use for cars. Will let y'all know what happens, on Tuesday or so.
I would advise against it with a SmartUPS 700. Did that when the cat stood
on a power strip and discharged the batteries; they wouldn't charge in the
unit and I charged them with a Schumacher outside. A few days later we had
the gas company out with detectors when our First Alert gave gas alarms
and traced the problem to hydrogen outgassing from the UPS,

I've read bad things about the 700 on the web. Mine is out of service and
destined for destruction.

--
Barack Obama, May 9: "I've now been in 57 states? I think one left to go."
 
"Tzortzakakis Dimitrios" <noone@nospam.void> wrote in message
news:g04cc6$edo$1@mouse.otenet.gr...
? "Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> ?????? ??? ??????
news:48246da4$0$657$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...
snip
The transformers are small in comparison, which gives poor
regulation in comparison (and as I said before, it's the
regulation at 120V which is the primary concern -- regulation
of 240V across 2 hots doesn't matter much for typical US 240V
loads).
The regulation, at least in Europe, is done at 150/15 kV substations and
at the HV side of the transformers, thus at 150 kV. Typical current for 2
x 25 MVA transformers is 150 A, 150 kV and of course secondary at 15 kV,
1500 A. The regulation is done automatically with tap changers, live. The
local transformers at your neighborhood are fixed tap, 15 kV (they intend
to change everything to 20 kV).
You're confusing two uses of the term 'regulation'. Tap changers and
voltage regulators actively sense the terminal voltage and adjust
'something' to maintain the voltage within some design limit. That's a
'regulator' and provides 'regulation' of the sensed voltage.

But 'regulation' also is a term used to describe the inherent voltage drop
in some devices. For example, if you review DC generators, you'll find that
simple shunt-wound generators have fairly good 'regulation' and their output
voltage only drops a few percent from no-load to full-load when supplied
with a fixed field. A cumulatively-compound DC generator (which has a
series field and a shunt field), can have a nearly flat voltage curve from
no-load to full-load with just a fixed shunt excitation, or even have a
voltage rise depending on the degree of compounding. (of course, an active
voltage regulator can counteract whatever inherent regulation a machine may
have)

In the case of simple fixed-tap transformers, the term 'regulation' can be
used to describe how much the output terminal voltage changes from no-load
to full-load if the primary voltage is held constant. This use is less than
perfect as it is much better to use the transformer's impedance along with
the load's power factor to get a more precise answer.

In the US, voltage regulation is accomplished with load-tap-changers,
capacitor banks, and other 'voltage support services'. But just like in
Europe, it is done at the substation or higher level and not done at the
typical distribution transformer. There are exceptions for rural areas
though where the line length of the primary leads to some issues.

daestrom
P.S. In the US, a 'tap-changer' may be built for either for unloaded or
loaded operation. The 'unloaded' type can not be stepped to another tap
while there is load on the unit (although it can still be energized). It's
switch contacts cannot interrupt load though, so if you try to move it while
loaded, you can burn up the tap-changer. The classic 'load-tap-changer' is
actually several switches that are controlled in a precise sequence to shift
the load from one tap of the transformer to another while not interrupting
the load current.

P.P.S. Load tap changers typically have a significant time-delay built into
the controls so they do not 'hunt' or respond to short drops in voltage such
as starting a large load. 15 seconds to several minutes is typical. So
even with load-tap-changers, starting a single load that is a high
percentage of the system capacity will *still* result in a voltage dip.
 
On Mon, 12 May 2008 18:12:53 GMT, "powerseed via ElectronicsKB.com"
<u43512@uwe> put finger to keyboard and composed:

**The tablet came sans power supply. Based on the specs I picked up a 12volt,
1 amp supply. Manual says mfr's p.s. must be used or wtty is void. Is this a
possible issue?
Page 15 of the manual states that the tablet needs a 12V ***AC*** 1A
power supply. Instead you have provided a 12V ***DC*** 1A power pack.

**I note there are what appear to be contact tabs (labeled +12v AC, -12v,
+12v, +5v, DIG GND, DIG GND) at the bottom right (plan view). Are these for
test fixture powering?
Maybe. Measure them with a multimeter. I'm betting that the +12VAC
(???) and -12V rails will be missing. The -12V is required by the
tablet's serial port, and possibly by the analogue circuitry for the
digitizing surface, and for various op-amps.

I'm betting that the 2-tones error indicates a problem with the
analogue circuitry.

If you get your MG3 working, I would still run the MG3TEST. I've seen
lots of tablets with dead spots on the surface, usually caused by dry
solder joints, or bad driver chips (yours appears to use the ULN2003
chips).

BTW, if you ever need any spare ICs, keep me in mind. I have a lot of
chips of that era ... somewhere. You'll just need to pay for postage
from Australia. I also have a new unused 4-button Summagraphics puck,
but that cost me money.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
On May 12, 7:14 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
No, the point is that lead-acid cells are especially susceptible to being
damaged. I've never had this happen with a nickel-cadmium battery.
The point: identify the reason for a failed battery (defective
battery or defective charger circuit) before replacing that battery.
The point is to answer the OPs question with a useful diagnostic
procedure.

Secondary is a claim that only gel cells get destroyed by
discharging. Any battery can be damaged by excessive discharging.
Which is not relevant to the OP's problem since he apparently has a
dead battery. Primary point is why. A question that is answered in
seconds before buying expensive replacement parts. Makes no sense
replacing a battery if the charger circuit was defective (created a
dead battery). A question that can be answered in seconds.
 
"Michael Moroney" <moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com> wrote in message
news:g0a1o5$bcq$1@pcls6.std.com...
"daestrom" <daestrom@NO_SPAM_HEREtwcny.rr.com> writes:


P.S. In the US, a 'tap-changer' may be built for either for unloaded or
loaded operation. The 'unloaded' type can not be stepped to another tap
while there is load on the unit (although it can still be energized).
It's
switch contacts cannot interrupt load though, so if you try to move it
while
loaded, you can burn up the tap-changer. The classic 'load-tap-changer'
is
actually several switches that are controlled in a precise sequence to
shift
the load from one tap of the transformer to another while not interrupting
the load current.

P.P.S. Load tap changers typically have a significant time-delay built
into
the controls so they do not 'hunt' or respond to short drops in voltage
such
as starting a large load. 15 seconds to several minutes is typical. So
even with load-tap-changers, starting a single load that is a high
percentage of the system capacity will *still* result in a voltage dip.

Are the load tap generators configured make-before-break?
Break-before-make would mean a (very short) power outage every activation
but make-before-break would mean a momentarily short-circuited winding and
the break would involve interrupting a large short circuit current.

Certainly modern ones likely use thyristors and zero crossing detectors.
I figured someone would 'bite' :)

Typical large power load-tap-changers have a primary winding and two
secondaries. One secondary produces about 100% of 'rated' secondary
voltage. The second secondary produces about 15% to 20% of the rated
voltage, but has numerous taps from end to end, about 2.5% 'steps'. (for a
total of about eight taps). The cental tap of the boost/buck winding is
tied to one end of the main secondary. The boost/buck can be used to step
from 90% to 110% of the 'design' output. I suppose some can step over a
wider range, but I haven't run across them.

*TWO* rotary switches have each tap tied to one of the positions of each
rotory switch, and each 'wiper' is tied to single heavier contacts that are
opened in the operating sequence. The output side of these two interrupting
contacts are tied to each end of a large center-tapped inductor.

So, normally both rotary switches are aligned to the same transformer tap,
both interrupting contacts are shut, and load current flows from the
boost/buck winding tap, splits and flows through both rotary switches, both
interrupting contacts, enters both ends of the inductor and out the inductor
center tap. Because the current flows into both ends of the inductor and
the mutual inductance of the two parts cancel, there is little voltage drop
in the inductor.

Begin step sequence:
1) Open one interrupting contactor. Now load current doubles through half
the inductor and is zero in the other half, so the voltage drop across the
inductor actually makes output voltage drop, even if trying to step 'up'.
2) Move associated rotary switch to next step of transformer bank.
3) Close interrupting contactor. Now, the two rotary switches are across
different taps. The inductor prevents a excessive current, otherwise you
have a direct short of the two winding taps. Some tap changers can stop at
this point and are called 'half-step' units. Obviously, the inductor has to
be rated for sustained operation across a step of the boost/buck winding
plus load current in order to survive sustained 'half step' operation.
4) But for tap changers that can't operate 'half-step', the sequence
continues. And opens the other interrupting contactor. Now the other half
of the inductor has full load current.
5) Move second rotary switch to next step (now both switches are on the new
step)
6) Close the second interrupting contactor. You're back in the initial
configuration, but with both rotary switches on a new transformer tap.

Older units do this whole thing with a fancy cam/gear arrangement circa
1940's. Just takes a single reversable motor to drive the unit and some
limit switches to be sure it can only stop at full 'steps' (or 'half steps'
for those capable of running 'half-step')

Because the system intermittently inserts an additional voltage drop through
the inductor, the control circuits typically have time-delays that prevent
it trying to reverse direction or something while stepping.

As far as zero-crossing and thyristors, I suppose it's certainly possible,
but I haven't run across them for large substations. I have seen such a
setup in power-conditioners for computer complexes and such, but that's only
a few kVA (one unit I know of was rated for 25 kVA).

The mechanical-switch tap changer is well-matured and has the nice advantage
that when they 'fail', they 'fail' at the last 'step' and power continues to
flow (albeit perhaps the wrong voltage).

When I was a kid living in a rather rural area, there would be a pair of
these on poles every few miles, connected open delta. (all transformer
primaries were connected phase-phase then).
Those are smaller than the units I'm thinking of. I'm talking about
multiple MVA rated units.

daestrom
 
<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:g0a7ts1t0c@news5.newsguy.com...
In alt.engineering.electrical Michael Moroney
moroney@world.std.spaamtrap.com> wrote:

| Are the load tap generators configured make-before-break?
| Break-before-make would mean a (very short) power outage every
activation
| but make-before-break would mean a momentarily short-circuited winding
and
| the break would involve interrupting a large short circuit current.

I wonder how much regulation could be managed through the use of variable
leakage inductance in the transformer windings.
I suppose you could, but increasing leakage inductance means you're
increasing losses aren't you? Just a percent or two on a unit rated for 250
MVA can be too much to tolerate.

daestrom
 
Leo Marx wrote:
ineedcoffee wrote:

Voltage question for some electronics repairs techs...

After feeling electricity when connecting two cable wires via a
coupler, I traced the source back to my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD
cable box. This cable box has no ground prong. When all wires expect
the power are disconnected, my meters reads 48 V AC from the case to
ground. For ground, used both my hot water base board and the neutral
and ground from the receptical. The outlet polarity is not
reversed.

When touch ground and the box with my hands, I can intermittently feel
slight tingling, about the strength of a dying 9 V on the tongue.

I've also verified the cable wire is grounded. When it is connected
to the box, the voltage on the case of course disappears. Obviously
it cannot source much current, since this is effectively shorting a
voltage source to ground.

The cable company has had two other boxes out, and both have the same
symptoms.

Am I missing something here? This cannot be normal. For a two
pronged appliance, I assume the case should be electrically isolated
from both the hot and the neutral. Does this sound right?

Any ideas or info would be appreciated. Thanks.

DMT

Is it possible that the shield of the cable is not grounded where it
enters your home?

If the shield was not grounded there, it is grounded at the CATV
amplifier, so you would not see 48 VAC. I already explained the case,
and how to deal with it.


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Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
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your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm
 
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Michael A. Terrell wrote:
"WindsorFox" wrote:
JeffM wrote:
JohnC wrote:
[SPAM]cgi.ebay.com[SPAM]
JeffM wrote:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:GlWDaaVQapQJ:pages.ebay.co.uk/help/newtoebay/usenet-policy.html+*-users-may-not-post-on-Usenet-groups+zzz+suspend-the-user's-eBay-account

WindsorFox<SS> wrote:
When it says not to post to Usenet groups, it does not mean groups
that are specifically for that. rec.audio.marketplace is a for sale group.
...and by cross-posting it to a no-ads group, he turned it into spam.
There is no such thing as "a little bit pregnant".
I never saw the cross post...


Then learn to read your headers. You crossposted this to:
news:sci.electronics.repair
blowme. I admitted I did not originally see the crosspost and that's
the best anyone can do, now get over it.

--

"I've also noted that a couple of my regular spammers
have pretty much switched over to phishing and 419s
from pecker pills and sawdust tablets." - Bar0

"If it's from BRNIC, it's GOT to be blocked" - Buss Error
 
On Tue, 13 May 2008 01:57:41 GMT, "powerseed via ElectronicsKB.com"
<u43512@uwe> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Franc Zabkar wrote:
**The tablet came sans power supply. Based on the specs I picked up a 12volt,
1 amp supply. Manual says mfr's p.s. must be used or wtty is void. Is this a
possible issue?

Page 15 of the manual states that the tablet needs a 12V ***AC*** 1A
power supply. Instead you have provided a 12V ***DC*** 1A power pack.

Oye-- How dumb is that!!! So this is just a step-down transformer!! I thought
all the bricks were AC to DC. Do you think using 12v DC could have hurt the
board? Or that it could be the source of my problems???
As Sam has said, DC won't hurt your tablet. Using DC instead of AC
means that some negative voltages are not able to be generated within
the tablet for important functions such as the serial port and for
your signal amplifiers (op-amps).

I'm betting that the 2-tones error indicates a problem with the
analogue circuitry.

I also saw at p. 40 of the UG that there are THREE MG3TEST diagnostic tests:
RAM, X-axis, and Y-axis--perhaps corresponding to the 3 tones??? Or not! If
so tho, might suggest Y-axis circuitry.
I suspect that the power-up sequence starts with a basic digital test,
ie ROM/RAM/CPU check, after which the first tone is output. Then
perhaps the next level of circuitry is tested (eg the 2651 serial
controller chip), resulting in a second tone. The next and final set
of tests may involve the analogue circuitry, ie the X & Y wires, which
would fail in this case because of the missing -12V rail. But that's
just a WAG ...

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
On May 11, 10:00 pm, Luc <leyndho...@hotmail.com> wrote:
If you want to feed heavier paper through a laser printer then use
the
single sheet feeder. Most printers are dsighne to take up to 25lb
paper and some will even take 28lb.
The 60 lb paper I ran through an HP 4MV came out just fine.

GG
 

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