2700uF 6.3V Electrolytic Capacitor x 6 or more

M

Matteo

Guest
Hi,

Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

Have about 6 of them on a pc mainboard of mine which continually
freezes.

I suspect thats the problem as i can see they have started to leak &
corrode.

Would be nice to replace them if i can find some new ones.

Regards,
Matteo
 
On Wed, 7 Jul 2004 02:42:17 +0800, "Matteo" <><> wrote:

Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

Have about 6 of them on a pc mainboard of mine which continually
freezes.

I suspect thats the problem as i can see they have started to leak &
corrode.
You may (or may not?) know that any voltage above
6V3 will also work but higher voltage caps. would probably
be physically larger too.

Also 2200uF or 3300uF will probably be OK in your
application.

Mike Harding
 
<Matteo>
Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

** Farnell have Panasonic FC series ( 105C ) in that value - cat:
303 -5980

These ones are 15mm high by 16 mm dia - $3.31 each plus.




.............. Phil
 
"Matteo" <><> wrote in message news:<40eaf295$0$24741$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>...
Hi,

Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

Have about 6 of them on a pc mainboard of mine which continually
freezes.

I suspect thats the problem as i can see they have started to leak &
corrode.

Would be nice to replace them if i can find some new ones.

Regards,
Matteo
A common problem. Silicon Chip even did an article about 6 months ago
on how to replace them.

Farnell should have plenty
www.farnellinone.com.au
You'll need low ESR types.

Dave :)
 
"David L. Jones"

Farnell should have plenty
www.farnellinone.com.au
You'll need low ESR types.

** The 6.3 volt, 2700 uF Panasonic FC ones I suggested in my post are rated
at 43 mohms.

Should do.



........... Phil
 
What a coincidence. Just last week I tried to get an MSI
motherboard working by replacing all 6 of the 2700uF 6.3V
electrolytics which had burst their tops. I used low ESR 3300uF 10V
ones from WES Components which are only slightly larger diameter.
Unfortunately this didn't quite fix the board. It still locked up
when running Windoze 98. I was already suspicious of all the 1000uF
6.3V electrolytics on the board, because one of those had also burst
its top (so I replaced it too) and they were the same weird brand as
the 2700uF ones. Rather than have me replace the many other 1000uF
ones as well, the owner tossed the board and bought a brand new one
quite cheaply....

Bob



"Matteo" <><> wrote:

Thanks to all
much appreciated
shall get on to it soon
:)
 
In article <40eaf295$0$24741$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-
01.iinet.net.au>, "Matteo" <><> says...
Hi,

Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

Have about 6 of them on a pc mainboard of mine which continually
freezes.

I suspect thats the problem as i can see they have started to leak &
corrode.

Would be nice to replace them if i can find some new ones.
Must be "low ESR"
 
In article <h6tqe0lmmhttguqlvg99v53hibfml79lis@4ax.com>,
bobp@bluebottle.com says...
What a coincidence. Just last week I tried to get an MSI
motherboard working by replacing all 6 of the 2700uF 6.3V
electrolytics which had burst their tops. I used low ESR 3300uF 10V
ones from WES Components which are only slightly larger diameter.
Unfortunately this didn't quite fix the board. It still locked up
when running Windoze 98. I was already suspicious of all the 1000uF
6.3V electrolytics on the board, because one of those had also burst
its top (so I replaced it too) and they were the same weird brand as
the 2700uF ones. Rather than have me replace the many other 1000uF
ones as well, the owner tossed the board and bought a brand new one
quite cheaply....
There's a few hobbyists in these parts like to replace the caps with ones
taken from other old boards, heard tell in some cases they find it easier
to rip the leads off the old caps then just solder the replacements onto
the pigtail.
 
In article <894aa0b3.0407061804.32f72a92@posting.google.com>,
tronnort@yahoo.com says...
"Matteo" <><> wrote in message news:<40eaf295$0$24741$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>...
Hi,

Anyone have any idea where i would get any luck trying to get such a
specific component?

Have about 6 of them on a pc mainboard of mine which continually
freezes.

I suspect thats the problem as i can see they have started to leak &
corrode.

Would be nice to replace them if i can find some new ones.

Regards,
Matteo

A common problem. Silicon Chip even did an article about 6 months ago
on how to replace them.
How do you get the thing out without overheating your board?

Never seen one myself, but some of the hacker types in these parts are
DIYers who will do anything to avoid having to replace the board, even to
stripping caps off other old boards.
 
On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 02:23:43 +1000, Bob Parker <bobp@bluebottle.com>
wrote:

What a coincidence. Just last week I tried to get an MSI
motherboard working by replacing all 6 of the 2700uF 6.3V
electrolytics which had burst their tops. I used low ESR 3300uF 10V
ones from WES Components which are only slightly larger diameter.
Unfortunately this didn't quite fix the board. It still locked up
when running Windoze 98. I was already suspicious of all the 1000uF
6.3V electrolytics on the board, because one of those had also burst
its top (so I replaced it too) and they were the same weird brand as
the 2700uF ones. Rather than have me replace the many other 1000uF
ones as well, the owner tossed the board and bought a brand new one
quite cheaply....

Bob
Before rushing out and spending money on caps and your time consider
my experience with this problem.
----------------
I had the same problem about a year ago with an MSI motherboard and
AMD 900mhz processor or thereabouts. The caps near the processor (6
of them if I remember correctly) had opened up at the top. The
computer had been occasionally locking up - or taking several on/off
attempts to make it start up when power was first switched on (once on
and left on it was mostly good).
Replacing the caps (used decent low ESR ones) made little difference
and was a waste of time, and I was convinced that the board was
stuffed. I ended up buying a new cheapie motherboard for about 5x
what the cost of the caps and postage had been, and the problem still
happened, then became permanent after a week or so. (couldnt switch on
at all - power led would come on etc - but processor wouldnt start.)
Turned out that the processor was stuffed and had to be replaced
- I have no doubt that the leaky caps that had probably been in there
some weeks/months undetected had helped a lot to hasten its demise .
I ended up giving the old motherboard with the new caps on it to a
friend who wanted to make up a comp on the cheap. He bought a new
processor/ ram etc for it - and could never get it to work. (the ram
and CPU were ok when put in a different board.)

"Matteo" <><> wrote:

Thanks to all
much appreciated
shall get on to it soon
:)
 
"Patrick Dunford"
There's a few hobbyists in these parts like to replace the caps with ones
taken from other old boards, heard tell in some cases they find it easier
to rip the leads off the old caps then just solder the replacements onto
the pigtail.

** Huh ?

How do you do this with radial caps ??



............... Phil
 
In article <2l6a8qF8rlbvU1@uni-berlin.de>, philallison@tpg.com.au says...
"Patrick Dunford"

There's a few hobbyists in these parts like to replace the caps with ones
taken from other old boards, heard tell in some cases they find it easier
to rip the leads off the old caps then just solder the replacements onto
the pigtail.


** Huh ?

How do you do this with radial caps ??
It's very messy and potentially troublesome I would think
 
In article <dtqre0tbggvqvggl0pvp3886e2gb246iku@4ax.com>, KLR <> says...
On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 02:23:43 +1000, Bob Parker <bobp@bluebottle.com
wrote:

What a coincidence. Just last week I tried to get an MSI
motherboard working by replacing all 6 of the 2700uF 6.3V
electrolytics which had burst their tops. I used low ESR 3300uF 10V
ones from WES Components which are only slightly larger diameter.
Unfortunately this didn't quite fix the board. It still locked up
when running Windoze 98. I was already suspicious of all the 1000uF
6.3V electrolytics on the board, because one of those had also burst
its top (so I replaced it too) and they were the same weird brand as
the 2700uF ones. Rather than have me replace the many other 1000uF
ones as well, the owner tossed the board and bought a brand new one
quite cheaply....

Bob

Before rushing out and spending money on caps and your time consider
my experience with this problem.


----------------
I had the same problem about a year ago with an MSI motherboard and
AMD 900mhz processor or thereabouts. The caps near the processor (6
of them if I remember correctly) had opened up at the top. The
computer had been occasionally locking up - or taking several on/off
attempts to make it start up when power was first switched on (once on
and left on it was mostly good).

Replacing the caps (used decent low ESR ones) made little difference
and was a waste of time, and I was convinced that the board was
stuffed. I ended up buying a new cheapie motherboard for about 5x
what the cost of the caps and postage had been, and the problem still
happened, then became permanent after a week or so. (couldnt switch on
at all - power led would come on etc - but processor wouldnt start.)
It may however be worthwhile repairing a good board as opposed to buying
cheap PCChips or whatever crap.

Turned out that the processor was stuffed and had to be replaced
- I have no doubt that the leaky caps that had probably been in there
some weeks/months undetected had helped a lot to hasten its demise .




I ended up giving the old motherboard with the new caps on it to a
friend who wanted to make up a comp on the cheap. He bought a new
processor/ ram etc for it - and could never get it to work. (the ram
and CPU were ok when put in a different board.)
Some boards are sensitive like this but OTOH the board is probably a PC
Chips board which are notorious for their poor quality.
 
G'day again,
Thanks for the info. In fact the reason this board was removed from
the case and examined was primarily because the CPU had been running
at approaching 90C. This was apparently due to it having no heatsink
grease on it.
Now you've got me curious as to whether or not the CPU itself might
have a problem. The board was running DOS just fine, but crashed when
Windoze was started up. My mate's still got the board and a spare CPU
he never tried in it. I might do some experimenting before pronouncing
the board a total write-off.

Bob



KLR <> wrote:
Before rushing out and spending money on caps and your time consider
my experience with this problem.


----------------
I had the same problem about a year ago with an MSI motherboard and
AMD 900mhz processor or thereabouts. The caps near the processor (6
of them if I remember correctly) had opened up at the top. The
computer had been occasionally locking up - or taking several on/off
attempts to make it start up when power was first switched on (once on
and left on it was mostly good).

Replacing the caps (used decent low ESR ones) made little difference
and was a waste of time, and I was convinced that the board was
stuffed. I ended up buying a new cheapie motherboard for about 5x
what the cost of the caps and postage had been, and the problem still
happened, then became permanent after a week or so. (couldnt switch on
at all - power led would come on etc - but processor wouldnt start.)

Turned out that the processor was stuffed and had to be replaced
- I have no doubt that the leaky caps that had probably been in there
some weeks/months undetected had helped a lot to hasten its demise .




I ended up giving the old motherboard with the new caps on it to a
friend who wanted to make up a comp on the cheap. He bought a new
processor/ ram etc for it - and could never get it to work. (the ram
and CPU were ok when put in a different board.)
 
the caps from RS are definately low esr
panasonic ones
exactly same values as current ones on board

hopefully i have a bit more luck than the other few in here who have
replaced the caps & made no difference

either way, i still think its worth replacing them

as if i need to change the cpu, i still have a another one spare, as i
upgraded from an 800 celeron to a 1000 p3

either way, the fact ive put it aside for cap changing ended up forcing
me to get a new board and cpu for free from a mate who had it sitting
doing nothing

so in the end...cant complain
 
On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 01:33:26 +0800, "Matteo" <><> wrote:

either way, i still think its worth replacing them
I agree. I did it on a P3 MSI board, and it's been working fine ever
since. FWIW, the capacitors were 1000uF 6.3V - I replaced them all
with 10v ones.

Cheers,
Alex.

Alex.
Ernie and bert don't live in my email address.
 

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