2000 Ford Ranger starting problem

Bill Bowden · Sep 5, 2014

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Jim Thompson · Sep 5, 2014

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:56:47 -0700, "Bill Bowden"
<bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. · Sep 5, 2014

In article <luaqni$1ol3$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info says...

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Well did you actually check the ignition switch?

Also, if memory serves, I think some fords and maybe others had a
switch behind the seat that prevents you from starting your truck in
case you get hit in the rear, and maybe hit period. I can't remember if
that kills the ignition completely or just the starter ? In any case,
you had to go behind the seat and reset it. Maybe you have a loose wire
there and you getting in/out of the truck is causing it.

There is also another possibility, fords are noted for rust! and it
causes bad engine grounds, especially where the ground strap is.
depending how the body is flexing at the time as you park it, may
dictate if the starter is going to turn over the next time. getting
in/out can also cause this problem to fix itself.

Jamie

Bill Bowden · Sep 5, 2014

"Jim Thompson" <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in
message news:gtrh0a19j2a58m0drgijni7jktshp551ao@4ax.com...

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:56:47 -0700, "Bill Bowden"
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the
key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the
dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose
after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

What kind of connector? Those rubber-boot types are notorious for
corroding.

...Jim Thompson
--

I don't think there are any connectors. The relay box comes assembled with a
wire loom that connects the box directly to various places. They quoted $600
to replace the relay box and wire loom, so I can't do that. Trobleshooting
the relay box would involve leaving it connected and working on it on the
hood of the truck. I may try to determine the starter relay contacts and
solder a couple wires to the relay pins so I can push a button to simulate
the relay closing and engage the starter. But I'm going to wait for more
information. I can push start the truck with some help, so I can probably
get home. The thing that amazes me is when I turn and hold the key and
nothing happens, and a few seconds later the truck magically starts. It's
like a built in 5 second time delay.

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. · Sep 5, 2014

In article <luava3$1t3o$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info says...

...Jim Thompson
--

I don't think there are any connectors. The relay box comes assembled with a
wire loom that connects the box directly to various places. They quoted $600
to replace the relay box and wire loom, so I can't do that. Trobleshooting
the relay box would involve leaving it connected and working on it on the
hood of the truck. I may try to determine the starter relay contacts and
solder a couple wires to the relay pins so I can push a button to simulate
the relay closing and engage the starter. But I'm going to wait for more
information. I can push start the truck with some help, so I can probably
get home. The thing that amazes me is when I turn and hold the key and
nothing happens, and a few seconds later the truck magically starts. It's
like a built in 5 second time delay.

-Bill

Fuel pump pressure problem?

Jamie

Jim Thompson · Sep 5, 2014

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 17:14:54 -0700, "Bill Bowden"
<bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in
message news:gtrh0a19j2a58m0drgijni7jktshp551ao@4ax.com...
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:56:47 -0700, "Bill Bowden"
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the
key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the
dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose
after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

What kind of connector? Those rubber-boot types are notorious for
corroding.

...Jim Thompson
--

I don't think there are any connectors. The relay box comes assembled with a
wire loom that connects the box directly to various places. They quoted $600
to replace the relay box and wire loom, so I can't do that. Trobleshooting
the relay box would involve leaving it connected and working on it on the
hood of the truck. I may try to determine the starter relay contacts and
solder a couple wires to the relay pins so I can push a button to simulate
the relay closing and engage the starter. But I'm going to wait for more
information. I can push start the truck with some help, so I can probably
get home. The thing that amazes me is when I turn and hold the key and
nothing happens, and a few seconds later the truck magically starts. It's
like a built in 5 second time delay.

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Bill Bowden · Sep 5, 2014

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.2e72c392aa15a31b989a2b@news.eternal-september.org...

In article <luaqni$1ol3$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info says...

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the
key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the
dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I
turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose
after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect
an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Well did you actually check the ignition switch?

Also, if memory serves, I think some fords and maybe others had a
switch behind the seat that prevents you from starting your truck in
case you get hit in the rear, and maybe hit period. I can't remember if
that kills the ignition completely or just the starter ? In any case,
you had to go behind the seat and reset it. Maybe you have a loose wire
there and you getting in/out of the truck is causing it.

There is also another possibility, fords are noted for rust! and it
causes bad engine grounds, especially where the ground strap is.
depending how the body is flexing at the time as you park it, may
dictate if the starter is going to turn over the next time. getting
in/out can also cause this problem to fix itself.

Jamie

Yes, but you would expect to hear a click from the solenoid if the starter
was bad. They want to sell me a starter, but I don't think that's the
problem. And fuel problems are reported to the computer so the 'check
engine' light comes on. I had one case where the truck cranked but wouldn't
start and finally did and the 'check engine' light came on. The shop read
the code as a fuel pump problem but said it didn't match the problem I
described. The error light eventually went off after about 20 more starts. I
don't see a 'check engine' light now, so the computer apparently doesn't
know about my problems.

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

George Herold · Sep 5, 2014

On Thursday, September 4, 2014 6:56:47 PM UTC-4, Bill Bowden wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the key

and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the dash

and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned

the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the

clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I

tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no

help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose after

a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the

starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened

the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it

started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem

appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible

the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an

intermittent connection?

-Bill
Hmm I had a faulty ignition switch in a 90's for aerostar. It did a similar type thing.

George H.

Jasen Betts · Sep 5, 2014

On 2014-09-04, Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

Id'd go for intermittent. one of the quick-connects the relay, or
ignition switch plug into, or in an intermediate connector has possibly
stretched and needs to be re-sized.

I had that in my old car

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Jasen Betts · Sep 5, 2014

On 2014-09-05, Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in
message news:gtrh0a19j2a58m0drgijni7jktshp551ao@4ax.com...
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:56:47 -0700, "Bill Bowden"
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the
key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the
dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose
after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

What kind of connector? Those rubber-boot types are notorious for
corroding.

...Jim Thompson
--

I don't think there are any connectors. The relay box comes assembled with a
wire loom that connects the box directly to various places. They quoted $600
to replace the relay box and wire loom, so I can't do that. Trobleshooting
the relay box would involve leaving it connected and working on it on the
hood of the truck. I may try to determine the starter relay contacts and
solder a couple wires to the relay pins so I can push a button to simulate
the relay closing and engage the starter. But I'm going to wait for more
information. I can push start the truck with some help, so I can probably
get home. The thing that amazes me is when I turn and hold the key and
nothing happens, and a few seconds later the truck magically starts. It's
like a built in 5 second time delay.

something needs to warm up before it allows full current to flow. or
it could be goo in the starter solenoid I guess, but they're usually
dry and dusty.

--
umop apisdn

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Sep 6, 2014

Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn
the key and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights
lit on the dash and total silence, no engine cranking.

Ideas...

Do you have any kind of alarm / theft protection, either factory or
aftermarket, that might be screwing up? Aftermarket alarms often route
the "start" wire from the ignition switch through their own relay, so
they can disable the starter. The splices for this may be bad, or maybe
the alarm box isn't satisfied enough to turn on its relay.

news:rec.autos.tech may be good or bad, I don't know.

There are a couple of forum sites for Rangers,
http://www.fordrangerforum.com and http://www.ranger-forums.com/ .
Maybe someone there has had this happen before. (I got good data from
an Excursion forum when my boss' Excursion was screwing up.)

Check the fat cable from battery positive to the starter, and the big
ground cable/strap from the engine block to battery negative. Or just
disconnect the negative cable at the battery, and then go around
disconnecting, wire-brushing, and reconnecting.

Crawl under the truck and make sure the starter mounting bolts are
tight.

This is probably not your problem, but: if the solenoid is stuck in the
extended position (gear engaged with flywheel), or if there is a "bad
spot" on the starter windings, sometimes you can fix it by putting it in
3rd, *ignition key off* (so the truck doesn't take a trip without you),
and then pushing the car forward or back a few feet, if able.

A circuit diagram *might* help. To get one:

If you live in or near the big city, the public library (often just the
main branch) may subscribe to the "Mitchell" auto repair manuals. These
are the ones that independent shops subscribe to; they are the closest
you are going to get to a factory manual without paying factory-manual
prices. They are much better than the typical Haynes, Chilton, etc.
The catch is that they don't circulate; take some change for the copier
(or a phone/camera to take pictures of the pages). They may also have
some online manuals, but print a test page before you print the whole
schematic; some of the earlier manuals were scanned at as much as 10 dpi
and you flat can't read the diagrams. Also, take a turn through the
regular stacks as well; sometimes they have real factory manuals sitting
on the shelf. Again, non-circulating, but handy.

> Problem seems to be worse in hot weather.

Old motorheads have told me that the classic solution to Ford starter
problems was to make a heat shield out of an old license plate and
install it between the starter and the block.

Matt Roberds

Bill Bowden · Sep 6, 2014

<mroberds@att.net> wrote in message news:ludi45$hsi$1@dont-email.me...

Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:
I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn
the key and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights
lit on the dash and total silence, no engine cranking.

Ideas...

Do you have any kind of alarm / theft protection, either factory or
aftermarket, that might be screwing up? Aftermarket alarms often route
the "start" wire from the ignition switch through their own relay, so
they can disable the starter. The splices for this may be bad, or maybe
the alarm box isn't satisfied enough to turn on its relay.

Yes, I have a dealer installed security system that may cause problems. I
leave it turned off to avoid problems. Not sure if it uses a relay or is
solid state. But that's an idea to take it back to the dealer and have them
wire it back to original. I might try bypassing the starting relay contacts
with a push button switch to prove the relay is not getting voltage to the
coil. If it starts, it would eliminate bad battery and starter cable
connections, and also the solenoid.

news:rec.autos.tech may be good or bad, I don't know.

There are a couple of forum sites for Rangers,
http://www.fordrangerforum.com and http://www.ranger-forums.com/ .
Maybe someone there has had this happen before. (I got good data from
an Excursion forum when my boss' Excursion was screwing up.)

Check the fat cable from battery positive to the starter, and the big
ground cable/strap from the engine block to battery negative. Or just
disconnect the negative cable at the battery, and then go around
disconnecting, wire-brushing, and reconnecting.

Crawl under the truck and make sure the starter mounting bolts are
tight.

This is probably not your problem, but: if the solenoid is stuck in the
extended position (gear engaged with flywheel), or if there is a "bad
spot" on the starter windings, sometimes you can fix it by putting it in
3rd, *ignition key off* (so the truck doesn't take a trip without you),
and then pushing the car forward or back a few feet, if able.

A circuit diagram *might* help. To get one:

If you live in or near the big city, the public library (often just the
main branch) may subscribe to the "Mitchell" auto repair manuals. These
are the ones that independent shops subscribe to; they are the closest
you are going to get to a factory manual without paying factory-manual
prices. They are much better than the typical Haynes, Chilton, etc.
The catch is that they don't circulate; take some change for the copier
(or a phone/camera to take pictures of the pages). They may also have
some online manuals, but print a test page before you print the whole
schematic; some of the earlier manuals were scanned at as much as 10 dpi
and you flat can't read the diagrams. Also, take a turn through the
regular stacks as well; sometimes they have real factory manuals sitting
on the shelf. Again, non-circulating, but handy.

Problem seems to be worse in hot weather.

Old motorheads have told me that the classic solution to Ford starter
problems was to make a heat shield out of an old license plate and
install it between the starter and the block.

Matt Roberds

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

John G · Sep 6, 2014

Bill Bowden laid this down on his screen :

mroberds@att.net> wrote in message news:ludi45$hsi$1@dont-email.me...
Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:
I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn
the key and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights
lit on the dash and total silence, no engine cranking.

Ideas...

Do you have any kind of alarm / theft protection, either factory or
aftermarket, that might be screwing up? Aftermarket alarms often route
the "start" wire from the ignition switch through their own relay, so
they can disable the starter. The splices for this may be bad, or maybe
the alarm box isn't satisfied enough to turn on its relay.

Yes, I have a dealer installed security system that may cause problems. I
leave it turned off to avoid problems. Not sure if it uses a relay or is
solid state. But that's an idea to take it back to the dealer and have them
wire it back to original. I might try bypassing the starting relay contacts
with a push button switch to prove the relay is not getting voltage to the
coil. If it starts, it would eliminate bad battery and starter cable
connections, and also the solenoid.

Just wire a small lamp or LED(and resistor) across (or to ground) any
device you might suspect, bring them into cab and watch what happens.

--
John G Sydney.

Sep 16, 2014

Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:

Turns out there is a security device in series with the starter
circuit that requires a key. [...] Bypassing the security circuit
fixed the problem I hope.

Thanks for posting back with what you found!

> He was pretty good and knew the function of every relay pin.

Somebody in Germany (Bosch maybe) came up with a fairly standard set of
numerical designations for most of the circuits in a car. It later
became DIN 72 552 and is probably an EN now. A lot of automotive relays
are marked according to this scheme - the terminals are often labeled
85, 86, 30, 87, and 87a. 85 is coil -, 86 is coil +, 30 is the common
contact, 87 is the normally open contact (closed with coil energized),
and 87a is the normally closed contact (open with coil energized). For
a lot of older relays, the coil would work on either polarity. Once
computers in cars happened, lots of relays grew diodes across the coil,
so you have to pay attention to which end of the coil is positive.
(With no diode, it's easy to get spikes of 90 V DC or more from the
coil when a standard automotive relay switches off.)

Some other useful numbers are 30 (battery, hot all the time), 15 (hot
with key on), and 31 (ground all the time).

Matt Roberds

Bill Bowden · Sep 16, 2014

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.2e72c392aa15a31b989a2b@news.eternal-september.org...

In article <luaqni$1ol3$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info says...

I've had this intermittent problem for over a year now where I turn the
key
and nothing happens. No click from the solenoid, all lights lit on the
dash
and total silence, no engine cranking. It would always start when I
turned
the key a few times and pressed the clutch a few times, so I replaced the
clutch switch with no help. Problem seems to be worse in hot weather. I
tried switching the starting relay with another in the same box with no
help. A shop tech said the solenoid could be sticking and flying loose
after
a few seconds of applied voltage and I might need to replace the
starter/solenoid assembly. But last week when it wouldn't start, I opened
the relay box and wiggled the relays and tapped on the box and then it
started. But I only did it once, so I need more data, but the problem
appears to be a intermittent connection or a bad solenoid. Is it possible
the solenoid is sticking and needs to be replaced, or would you suspect
an
intermittent connection?

-Bill

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Well did you actually check the ignition switch?

Also, if memory serves, I think some fords and maybe others had a
switch behind the seat that prevents you from starting your truck in
case you get hit in the rear, and maybe hit period. I can't remember if
that kills the ignition completely or just the starter ? In any case,
you had to go behind the seat and reset it. Maybe you have a loose wire
there and you getting in/out of the truck is causing it.

Pretty close. Turns out there is a security device in series with the
starter circuit that requires a key. I haven't used it in years and leave it
turned off. Anyway, the problem got worse in the recent heat wave and the
truck finally wouldn't crank at home and stayed dead long enough to
eliminate the solenoid and relay. Applying 12 volts to the appropriate relay
pin started the truck. So, the problem was no power to the relay coil. That
meant the key switch was bad or the security circuit was open. Bypassing the
security circuit fixed the problem I hope. Time will tell, but I didn't fix
it. I had a shop tech come over and do all the measurements. He was pretty
good and knew the function of every relay pin. .

There is also another possibility, fords are noted for rust! and it
causes bad engine grounds, especially where the ground strap is.
depending how the body is flexing at the time as you park it, may
dictate if the starter is going to turn over the next time. getting
in/out can also cause this problem to fix itself.

Jamie

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Sep 16, 2014

"Also, if memory serves, I think some fords and maybe others had a
switch behind the seat that prevents you from starting your truck in
case you get hit in the rear, and maybe hit period. I can't remember if
that kills the ignition completely or just the starter ? "

No, that system is actually not in the seat usually, but maybe on some models. But it only kills the 12V fed to the fuel pump. People have had to jump them out. It is not difficult and really I would try it. But we don't even know the problem.

When something does not rin you check three things. Fuel, spark and compression. If it runs again it is not compression.

And fuck that collision detector, you get in a fender bender and you can't drive it home ? Bullshit. Fuck all that. You just give each other names and decide whether to call the cops or not. Bt needing a tow is fucked up. Fuck all that.

Jim Thompson · Sep 17, 2014

On Tue, 16 Sep 2014 05:30:54 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Bill Bowden <bperryb@bowdenshobbycircuits.info> wrote:
Turns out there is a security device in series with the starter
circuit that requires a key. [...] Bypassing the security circuit
fixed the problem I hope.

Thanks for posting back with what you found!

He was pretty good and knew the function of every relay pin.

Somebody in Germany (Bosch maybe) came up with a fairly standard set of
numerical designations for most of the circuits in a car. It later
became DIN 72 552 and is probably an EN now. A lot of automotive relays
are marked according to this scheme - the terminals are often labeled
85, 86, 30, 87, and 87a. 85 is coil -, 86 is coil +, 30 is the common
contact, 87 is the normally open contact (closed with coil energized),
and 87a is the normally closed contact (open with coil energized). For
a lot of older relays, the coil would work on either polarity. Once
computers in cars happened, lots of relays grew diodes across the coil,
so you have to pay attention to which end of the coil is positive.
(With no diode, it's easy to get spikes of 90 V DC or more from the
coil when a standard automotive relay switches off.)

Some other useful numbers are 30 (battery, hot all the time), 15 (hot
with key on), and 31 (ground all the time).

Matt Roberds

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