12V toaster

M

Michael C

Guest
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
get different resistance heating wire?

Thanks,
Michael
 
"Michael C" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:495452fe$0$20975$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
get different resistance heating wire?

Thanks,
Michael
The first thing you'd better do is find out a bit about how electricity
works. if you use the same heating wire, 20 times shorter, you'll be waiting
a long time for your toast.
 
"Bruce Varley" <bxvarley@weastnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:5oudneK_u5IUyMnUnZ2dnUVZ8qDinZ2d@westnet.com.au...
The first thing you'd better do is find out a bit about how electricity
works. if you use the same heating wire, 20 times shorter, you'll be
waiting a long time for your toast.
I suggest you get a clue and read my post again. I don't quite get what you
don't understand. Do you think I'm suggesting having a single wire 20 times
shorter? Or are you thinking the toaster is already designed for 12V? What I
am suggesting is that I could rewire the toaster so that each run of heating
wire is 20 times shorter (240/12 = 20) but obviously there would be more
runs of wire.

Michael
 
On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 14:43:45 +1100, "Michael C" <mike@nospam.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
get different resistance heating wire?

Thanks,
Michael
My toaster is rated at 750W, 240V. That's a current draw of about 3A.
A 12V 750W toaster would draw about 60 amps.

Assuming you can provide a cable with conductors of sufficient
cross-section (eg a car battery cable), then you would need to chop up
the heating element into 20 equal lengths and wire them in parallel.

All joins would need to be crimps, otherwise the heat would probably
melt the solder.

Of course this was just a mental exercise, wasn't it? ;-)

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:qqt8l4lv5eukdm3p2lf22cuks9k3pdf899@4ax.com...
My toaster is rated at 750W, 240V. That's a current draw of about 3A.
A 12V 750W toaster would draw about 60 amps.
Yep, will need some pretty reasonable wiring, I guess the cigarette lighter
socket is out of the question :) The plus side is that a toaster usually
runs for only 2 minutes so the 80Ah battery I have should cope ok.

Assuming you can provide a cable with conductors of sufficient
cross-section (eg a car battery cable), then you would need to chop up
the heating element into 20 equal lengths and wire them in parallel.
Cool.

All joins would need to be crimps, otherwise the heat would probably
melt the solder.
That's probably going to be the hard part, or at least the part I haven't
worked out as yet.

Of course this was just a mental exercise, wasn't it? ;-)
Actually I'm fairly heavily invested in this project already, to the tune of
$9.95. :)

Michael
 
"Michael C" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:495452fe$0$20975$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V.
You said it, it is indeed quite a silly idea.

Get a light weight gas stove and toaster adapter and spend your efforts on a
more worthwhile project.

Dave.
 
David L. Jones wrote:
"Michael C" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:495452fe$0$20975$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V.

You said it, it is indeed quite a silly idea.

Get a light weight gas stove and toaster adapter and spend your efforts on a
more worthwhile project.

Dave.


the OP is lucky phil has not started on him
 
F Murtz wrote:
David L. Jones wrote:
"Michael C" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:495452fe$0$20975$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V.

You said it, it is indeed quite a silly idea.

Get a light weight gas stove and toaster adapter and spend your efforts on a
more worthwhile project.

Dave.


the OP is lucky phil has not started on him

Phil will claim he had the idea, first.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
Phil Allison wrote:
"F Murtz"

the OP is lucky phil has not started on him


** Fat chance of that ...




... Phil



Very true , if you did it would require a clue
and you don't
Still smoking other blokes bit philthy ?
 
you could always buy one

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/201390723/12V_toaster/showimage.html?pn=2&pt=2&total=2&cids=&tracelog=detailphoto12907&newId=202960754#breadcrumbs
 
"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:6rju6dF21hluU1@mid.individual.net...
"F Murtz"


the OP is lucky phil has not started on him


** Fat chance of that ...




... Phil
A quote from Toasters'r'us?
 
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:uM%4l.4616$cu.401@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
You said it, it is indeed quite a silly idea.
That's true but that's kind of the point. When we go away everyone's keen to
show off their gadgets. I doubt anyone is going to have a 65 amp toaster.

Get a light weight gas stove and toaster adapter and spend your efforts on
a more worthwhile project.
Yeah, that's just not the same as a popup toaster. :)

Michael
 
"Mark Harriss" <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote in message
news:KtydnSPwD6JdV8nUnZ2dnUVZ8rydnZ2d@westnet.com.au...
you could always buy one

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/201390723/12V_toaster/showimage.html?pn=2&pt=2&total=2&cids=&tracelog=detailphoto12907&newId=202960754#breadcrumbs
I saw those but they look like they run off a cigarette lighter and only do
one piece of toast. They don't really show much description on their site.

Michael
 
Much more romantic to light a small fire and use a long fork,
that way the money saved could go for high school physics lessons
or to add to your homes fire insurance ;-)

cheers



In article <49548186$0$19326$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>, mike@nospam.com says...
"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:qqt8l4lv5eukdm3p2lf22cuks9k3pdf899@4ax.com...
My toaster is rated at 750W, 240V. That's a current draw of about 3A.
A 12V 750W toaster would draw about 60 amps.

Yep, will need some pretty reasonable wiring, I guess the cigarette lighter
socket is out of the question :) The plus side is that a toaster usually
runs for only 2 minutes so the 80Ah battery I have should cope ok.

Assuming you can provide a cable with conductors of sufficient
cross-section (eg a car battery cable), then you would need to chop up
the heating element into 20 equal lengths and wire them in parallel.

Cool.

All joins would need to be crimps, otherwise the heat would probably
melt the solder.

That's probably going to be the hard part, or at least the part I haven't
worked out as yet.

Of course this was just a mental exercise, wasn't it? ;-)

Actually I'm fairly heavily invested in this project already, to the tune of
$9.95. :)

Michael
--
Regards
Mike
* VK/VL Commodore FuseRails that wont warp or melt with fuse failure indication
and now with auto 10-15 min timer for engine illumination option.
* VN, VP, VR Models with relay holder now available.
* Uprated ignition module for VL in economy trials.
* Twin Tyres to suit most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au
 
On Dec 26, 1:43 pm, "Michael C" <m...@nospam.com> wrote:
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
get different resistance heating wire?

Thanks,
Michael

Take a look at the original toaster and see how they make the joins.
As I vaguely remember, they were just done with a bolt on the back of
the AC inlet socket
Some type of compression fitting (high temperature) will no doubt be
needed.
Spot welding of some type MAY also be possible depending on the wire
(s) used.


You will also need very thick wire back to the power source, and the
bars taking the power to the resistance wire will need to be solid
too.



The best way to do what you want is to buy an inverter, or maybe a UPS
(if cheaper) and modify to connect to the car battery.
The time it takes do do a couple of pieces of toast shouldn't be a
problem for a car battery in good order, and no trouble if you leave
the engine running.

(I assume you will be using this "on the road", otherwise you would
use bottled gas or a generator if in a residence/camping/shack etc ?

Another advantage of inversion is that you can run other mains
appliances while "on the road"
 
"Jeßus" <none@the_moment.org> wrote in message
news:gj46ti$ivk$1@news.tornevall.net...
I suggest you get a clue and read my post again. I don't quite get what
you don't understand. Do you think I'm suggesting having a single wire
20 times shorter?

Thats what you wrote.
Um, no I didn't (notice the plural when I said runs). I've gotta admit it's
a bit vague what I wrote but I was assuming the reader wasn't silly.

Michael
 
On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 17:17:18 +1100, Michael C wrote:

"Bruce Varley" <bxvarley@weastnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:5oudneK_u5IUyMnUnZ2dnUVZ8qDinZ2d@westnet.com.au...
The first thing you'd better do is find out a bit about how electricity
works. if you use the same heating wire, 20 times shorter, you'll be
waiting a long time for your toast.

I suggest you get a clue and read my post again. I don't quite get what
you don't understand. Do you think I'm suggesting having a single wire
20 times shorter?
Thats what you wrote.






--
"Some days we don't let the line move at all. We call those weekdays"
Patty and Selma Bouvier, 1996
 
On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 22:40:59 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

"F Murtz"


the OP is lucky phil has not started on him


** Fat chance of that ...
I don't doubt that for a second, Phallis.




--
"Some days we don't let the line move at all. We call those weekdays"
Patty and Selma Bouvier, 1996
 
kreed wrote:
On Dec 26, 1:43 pm, "Michael C" <m...@nospam.com> wrote:
I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
get different resistance heating wire?

Thanks,
Michael

Take a look at the original toaster and see how they make the joins.
As I vaguely remember, they were just done with a bolt on the back of
the AC inlet socket
Some type of compression fitting (high temperature) will no doubt be
needed.
Spot welding of some type MAY also be possible depending on the wire
(s) used.

You will also need very thick wire back to the power source, and the
bars taking the power to the resistance wire will need to be solid
too.

The best way to do what you want is to buy an inverter, or maybe a UPS
(if cheaper) and modify to connect to the car battery.
The time it takes do do a couple of pieces of toast shouldn't be a
problem for a car battery in good order, and no trouble if you leave
the engine running.

(I assume you will be using this "on the road", otherwise you would
use bottled gas or a generator if in a residence/camping/shack etc ?

Another advantage of inversion is that you can run other mains
appliances while "on the road"

I hope he shoots video of the thermostat exploding at that current.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top