1% colour codes

T

Terry Pinnell

Guest
In all the years in this hobby, I suppose this is the first time I've
had to look closely at resistor colour codes. My latest parts order
included a few .125W 1% resistors. With glasses removed and peering
closely I see
10k: brown, black, black, red, brown
100k: brown, black, black, orange, brown

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other stocks,
interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from which *end* to
read is hardly obvious for starters!


--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
 
"Terry Pinnell" <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:a32bq0lk124jcma8egr7f111s4bm7nkeev@4ax.com...
In all the years in this hobby, I suppose this is the first time I've
had to look closely at resistor colour codes. My latest parts order
included a few .125W 1% resistors. With glasses removed and peering
closely I see
10k: brown, black, black, red, brown
100k: brown, black, black, orange, brown

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other stocks,
interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from which *end* to
read is hardly obvious for starters!
Click to expand...
I've used 1% metal film resistors for years. I write the value on the tape,
and do the same with SM Rs and Cs. The brown ring (tolerance) should be
separated from the others.

Leon
 
Terry Pinnell wrote:
In all the years in this hobby, I suppose this is the first time I've
had to look closely at resistor colour codes. My latest parts order
included a few .125W 1% resistors. With glasses removed and peering
closely I see
10k: brown, black, black, red, brown
100k: brown, black, black, orange, brown

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other stocks,
interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from which *end* to
read is hardly obvious for starters!

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
Click to expand...
Since one has one percent resistors, that means an *extra* significant
digit for the value.
So: 10K = 100*10^2 ohms @1% and 100K = 100*10^3 ohms @1% (note the
colors follow this).
As far as which end to start from, if both ends are "1" (brown), then
there can be a problem.
 
In article <a32bq0lk124jcma8egr7f111s4bm7nkeev@4ax.com>,
Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote:
[snip]
I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other
stocks, interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from
which *end* to read is hardly obvious for starters!
Click to expand...
Yes, those crappy 4-band colour codes. They came in a
few years ago, not exactly easy to read. I'm afraid
you always have to have your DMM handy from now on Terry.

--
Tony Williams.
 
"Leon Heller" <leon_heller@hotmail.com> wrote:

I've used 1% metal film resistors for years. I write the value on the tape,
and do the same with SM Rs and Cs.
Click to expand...
Most of my dabbling now uses breadboard, so I'll return a newly-used
(and shaped) resistor to the container, not the tape. The ideal would
be more containers of course, but not practical here.

The brown ring (tolerance) should be separated from the others.
Click to expand...
I'll take a look later. Pretty darned hard to see anyway.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
 
Robert Baer <robertbaer@earthlink.net> wrote:

Since one has one percent resistors, that means an *extra* significant
digit for the value.
So: 10K = 100*10^2 ohms @1% and 100K = 100*10^3 ohms @1% (note the
colors follow this).
Click to expand...
Thanks, understand that. But my point is that it's poorly chosen
coding, because it's inconsistent with the 4-band system. I want
yellow to mean '100k-999k', etc.

As far as which end to start from, if both ends are "1" (brown), then
there can be a problem.
Click to expand...
As in this example. And I guess for most of my 1% resistors, which
tend to be 100, 1k, 10k, etc.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
 
Tony Williams <tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> writes:

In article <a32bq0lk124jcma8egr7f111s4bm7nkeev@4ax.com>,
Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote:
[snip]
I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other
stocks, interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from
which *end* to read is hardly obvious for starters!

Yes, those crappy 4-band colour codes. They came in a
few years ago, not exactly easy to read. I'm afraid
you always have to have your DMM handy from now on Terry.
Click to expand...
You could still get 1% in the 3 band codes, last time I looked... you
just had to choose the right manufacturer (rohm?).

All my new resistor purchases are surface mount now, so the problem
does not arise. (Except you need a magnifier to read them of course).

--

John Devereux
 
Robert Baer wrote:

Since one has one percent resistors, that means an *extra* significant
digit for the value.
Click to expand...
Not so much the tolerance as the series. Once you get to E96, you need
the extra band for weirdy values like 15k4. I only use 1% these days, as
it saves stocking multiple ranges. Except of course where it's necessary
to use 0.1% or whatever.

Paul Burke
 
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 07:48:33 +0000, in sci.electronics.design Terry
Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote:

In all the years in this hobby, I suppose this is the first time I've
had to look closely at resistor colour codes. My latest parts order
included a few .125W 1% resistors. With glasses removed and peering
closely I see
10k: brown, black, black, red, brown
100k: brown, black, black, orange, brown

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other stocks,
interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from which *end* to
read is hardly obvious for starters!
Hi Terry
Click to expand...
http://www.safepub.com/Catalog/General/eyemagn.htm#galilean%20system
or google for binocular loupes
The medical ones are EXPENSIVE!

(I need a pair)



martin

Serious error.
All shortcuts have disappeared.
Screen. Mind. Both are blank.
 
martin griffith <martingriffith@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Terry
http://www.safepub.com/Catalog/General/eyemagn.htm#galilean%20system
or google for binocular loupes
The medical ones are EXPENSIVE!

(I need a pair)
Click to expand...
Wow - 136USD! I'll struggle on a bit longer and spend the 73UKP on
Chablis instead <g>.

Actually, although I'm very shortsighted, anything under about 6"
(15cm) away is sharp without my glasses. Groping for them again after
a spot of close-up soldering can be hazardous though!

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
 
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 08:45:38 +0000 (GMT), Tony Williams <tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> wrote:

In article <a32bq0lk124jcma8egr7f111s4bm7nkeev@4ax.com>,
Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote:
[snip]
I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other
stocks, interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from
which *end* to read is hardly obvious for starters!

Yes, those crappy 4-band colour codes. They came in a
few years ago, not exactly easy to read. I'm afraid
you always have to have your DMM handy from now on Terry.
Click to expand...
I'm sure I read somewhere that one end band is supposed to be wider than the others to indicate
which way round - I think it's the tolerance band.
 
Terry Pinnell wrote:

In all the years in this hobby, I suppose this is the first time I've
had to look closely at resistor colour codes. My latest parts order
included a few .125W 1% resistors. With glasses removed and peering
closely I see
10k: brown, black, black, red, brown
100k: brown, black, black, orange, brown

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively.
Click to expand...
The extra digit makes those bands red and orange respectively.

Removed from their tape and mixed with my other stocks,
interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from which *end* to
read is hardly obvious for starters!
Click to expand...
The tolerance band should be separated from the value by a larger
distance.


Graham
 
Terry Pinnell wrote:

martin griffith <martingriffith@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Terry
http://www.safepub.com/Catalog/General/eyemagn.htm#galilean%20system
or google for binocular loupes
The medical ones are EXPENSIVE!

(I need a pair)

Wow - 136USD! I'll struggle on a bit longer and spend the 73UKP on
Chablis instead <g>.

Actually, although I'm very shortsighted, anything under about 6"
(15cm) away is sharp without my glasses. Groping for them again after
a spot of close-up soldering can be hazardous though!
Click to expand...
I find this kind of thing quite useful.

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=272527&N=401

Keep a 5x and 7x handy.

Graham
 
"Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:41A674A3.1F3E7D68@hotmail.com...
Terry Pinnell wrote:

martin griffith <martingriffith@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Terry
http://www.safepub.com/Catalog/General/eyemagn.htm#galilean%20system
or google for binocular loupes
The medical ones are EXPENSIVE!

(I need a pair)

Wow - 136USD! I'll struggle on a bit longer and spend the 73UKP on
Chablis instead <g>.

Actually, although I'm very shortsighted, anything under about 6"
(15cm) away is sharp without my glasses. Groping for them again after
a spot of close-up soldering can be hazardous though!


I find this kind of thing quite useful.

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=272527&N=401

Keep a 5x and 7x handy.
Click to expand...
I was at an electronics show a few years ago where a vendor of really small
surface mount parts was giving away 3x magnifiers. I also purchased a pair
of magnifier reading glasses at Walmart. The combination is good enough to
convince me that I don't want to try soldering those little beasties. Me
finger tremor is about two-three pins worth on the tightest-pitch ICs we
use.
 
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 16:40:53 -0800, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com>
wrote:

[snip]
I was at an electronics show a few years ago where a vendor of really small
surface mount parts was giving away 3x magnifiers. I also purchased a pair
of magnifier reading glasses at Walmart. The combination is good enough to
convince me that I don't want to try soldering those little beasties. Me
finger tremor is about two-three pins worth on the tightest-pitch ICs we
use.
Click to expand...
You're not drinking enough ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 17:44:10 -0700, Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 16:40:53 -0800, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com
wrote:

[snip]

I was at an electronics show a few years ago where a vendor of really small
surface mount parts was giving away 3x magnifiers. I also purchased a pair
of magnifier reading glasses at Walmart. The combination is good enough to
convince me that I don't want to try soldering those little beasties. Me
finger tremor is about two-three pins worth on the tightest-pitch ICs we
use.



You're not drinking enough ;-)

Ya took tha wordsh right outta my *hic* glash.
Click to expand...

%-*
rCHI
 
"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:t1vcq0pjq1a7mr1mmf5lp7e6g0nmlpfgs2@4ax.com...
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 16:40:53 -0800, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com
wrote:

[snip]

I was at an electronics show a few years ago where a vendor of really
small
surface mount parts was giving away 3x magnifiers. I also purchased a
pair
of magnifier reading glasses at Walmart. The combination is good enough
to
convince me that I don't want to try soldering those little beasties. Me
finger tremor is about two-three pins worth on the tightest-pitch ICs we
use.



You're not drinking enough ;-)
Click to expand...
Will that a) increase the tremor, b) decrease the tremor, or c) make me not
care about it.
 
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 20:55:51 -0800, in sci.electronics.design "Richard
Henry" <rphenry@home.com> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:t1vcq0pjq1a7mr1mmf5lp7e6g0nmlpfgs2@4ax.com...
On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 16:40:53 -0800, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com
wrote:

[snip]

snip

You're not drinking enough ;-)

Will that a) increase the tremor, b) decrease the tremor, or c) make me not
care about it.


how about RedBull and vodka?
Click to expand...
It keeps the yooth of today partying all night, vodka to calm the
nerves, and caffine for the reciprocal


martin

Serious error.
All shortcuts have disappeared.
Screen. Mind. Both are blank.
 
martin griffith wrote:

how about RedBull and vodka?
It keeps the yooth of today partying all night, vodka to calm the
nerves, and caffine for the reciprocal
Click to expand...
They party all night because they are yoof, despite what they consume.
Just like we used to do on cheap cider and Party 7s, remember?
 
John Devereux wrote:
Tony Williams <tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> writes:


In article <a32bq0lk124jcma8egr7f111s4bm7nkeev@4ax.com>,
Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote:
[snip]

I'd instinctively looked for a splash of orange and yellow
respectively. Removed from their tape and mixed with my other
stocks, interpretation hardly seems intuitive. Deciding from
which *end* to read is hardly obvious for starters!

Yes, those crappy 4-band colour codes. They came in a
few years ago, not exactly easy to read. I'm afraid
you always have to have your DMM handy from now on Terry.


You could still get 1% in the 3 band codes, last time I looked... you
just had to choose the right manufacturer (rohm?).

All my new resistor purchases are surface mount now, so the problem
does not arise. (Except you need a magnifier to read them of course).
Click to expand...
Recently I have been using smt resistors with codes on them - how the
hell do you figure "768" = 604 ohms, or "010" = 100k.

I made a clip up with some copper pipe hammered to form tweezers, and a
plastic clothespeg, and attached leads & banana plugs to it so I can
easily measure 0603 Rs and Cs.

OTOH film cannisters are great smt component holders.

Cheers
Terry
 
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